How to Buy Mulch, Compost and Topsoil by the Numbers

It’s always frustrating to come home from the garden center with what you think is plenty of mulch, only to find that your estimate fell far short. Save yourself extra trips when you use this simple calculation to determine how much mulch, soil or compost you need for any job. And we’ll help you figure out the best way to move it too.

Calculate how much material you need in cubic feet

Length × Width × Depth (measured in feet)
For example, a 36 × 6-foot bed with 3 inches (.25 feet) of mulch:
36 × 6 × .25 = 54 cubic feet

Need a lot? Consider buying in bulk

Cubic feet ÷ 27 = cubic yards
For example, 54 cubic feet ÷ 27 = 2 cubic yards

How do bags and bulk garden materials compare?

*Know your vehicle’s load limits!

A cubic yard of topsoil can weigh 1,000 to 3,000 pounds, depending on how much clay or moisture is in the mix. A cubic yard of compost is usually 1,000 to 1,500 pounds and bark mulch, 400 to 700 pounds. Don’t forget to include your own weight and that of any passengers in your calculations!

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A high-value lawn fertilization program focuses on the right nutrients at the correct time for your specific grass type, not just the lowest price. When you match fertilizer to your soil and follow a smart schedule, you support stronger roots, fewer weeds and steady growth without wasting money. This guide is brought to you by the specialists at Ricci's Landscape Management (RLM, Inc.) — a full-service lawn care and landscaping company serving Northwest Indiana.

What should I look for in a lawn care program?

A fertilization plan should green up your outdoor space and support its long-term health from the soil up. Look for these core elements:

• Targeted nutrients: Use applications based on your soil and grass type, not a generic mix.
  
• Seasonal timing: Apply fertilizer when your grass can actually use it.
  
• Weed and pest control: Choose a service with built-in prevention.
  
• Soil support: Help nutrients reach the roots with aeration.

According to experts, healthy grass depends on a balanced approach that combines nutrients, weed control and proper loam care rather than a single treatment. If your yard has struggled in the past, a system can help.

Why Fertilizer Options Matter

The best-value program depends on your grass type and how it grows throughout the year. A simple, well-timed plan is your most effective strategy. Here’s a practical breakdown.

To stretch your budget more, focus on these rules:

• Test your soil before choosing products.
• Prioritize nitrogen unless your soil needs other nutrients.
• Use slow-release fertilizer for steady growth.
• Split applications instead of applying everything at once.

According to the RLM, Inc. fertilization program, pricing matters less than effective management. You should remember that “in the warm summer sun, weeds can take over if they’re not under control. Summer also provides ideal conditions for many types of pests that can become a bigger problem for your lawn if not treated or managed correctly.”

Are professional fertilizer programs worth the money?

You can fertilize your lawn yourself, but the results depend on timing, product choice and consistency. Professional systems often deliver better value over time.

Professionals focus on long-term lawn health by combining fertilization with specialized liquid aeration and grub control. If your previous DIY attempts haven't worked, a structured, cost-effective program prevents repeated trial and error.

FAQs

What are the best lawn care packages for my type of grass?
Choose an option based on how your grass grows. Cool-season types require full fertilization, while warm-season grasses need spring and summer feeding.

Where can I find affordable lawn fertilization services across the U.S.?
You can use sites like GreenPal to find lawn fertilization services near you.

This article was sponsored by Ricci's Landscape Management, a Northwest Indiana landscape management company that focuses on long-term grass health and sustained growth.

What is included in a typical lawn fertilization program?
Most programs include seasonal fertilizer applications, pre-emergent weed control, post-emergent treatments, and optional pest or grub management. Some providers offer optional services such as aeration.

Can you have a lawn that lasts?

A healthy lawn needs more than a quick fix. When you choose a fertilization program that fits your grass type, soil and seasonal needs, you’ll enjoy steady growth and fewer problems over time. Work with professionals to help you get greener grass and consistent results without the trial and error of DIY landscape management.

Article written by Eloise Badenhorst

Have you ever frozen in the middle of a routine task and wondered, “Wait, should I be doing this differently?” Unlike commercial organic growers who have to follow specific regulations, home gardeners are free to grow according to their own standards of organic. It’s great to have this flexibility, but at times it’s puzzling to know which practices are organic, which aren’t and which are somewhere in between.

The truth is that organic gardening is about more than avoiding synthetic elements or chemicals that are harmful to the environment. A better goal is to grow in tandem with nature to create a healthy, vibrant growing environment for strong plants, which can then be naturally resilient against pest and disease. With that in mind, take a look at some of these common garden situations and be informed. Figure out which practices work best for your garden and your growing goals, and go with it.

1. White vinegar: It’s organic

Most white vinegars are derived from grain-based alcohol (though sometimes they are synthetically produced). Official label or not, vinegar is an organic product that won’t contribute unwanted chemicals to the garden. But you still need to be careful when you use it as a weed killer.

Household vinegar vs. horticultural vinegar

Household white vinegar contains 5 percent acetic acid and likely won’t slow weeds down much. However, horticultural vinegar has 10 to 20 percent. This potency will knock foliage and stems out, but the roots will probably still survive. It’s also more dangerous for you to use. Gear up with a mask, gloves and goggles to avoid burning skin or damaging eyes. And watch where you spray: Vinegar has no mercy on nearby ornamental plants and might be fatal to frogs upon contact.

More organic ways to deal with weeds

If you’ve only ever tried vinegar and been discouraged, there are other organic options for effectively warding off weeds. The best practices include a little bit of elbow grease: A layer of newspaper followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch goes a long way in suppressing weeds. Grow ground covers in the bare spots of your beds. And simply be ready to frequently stroll your garden with hoe in hand.

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2. Harvested rainwater: Maybe Organic

It’s true that water harvested from rain barrels might be contaminated with chemicals leached from the roof. But recent studies by Rutgers University and the Washington State Department of Ecology reveal that it might not be as harmful as we once thought. Heavy metals and chemicals are minimally present in the water, and generally the levels are safe according to scientific standards. But if the chemicals are still there, should the water be used in an organic garden?

The answer is yes, it’s probably still OK. Metal and chemical levels in harvested rainwater don’t differ much from average tap water (or even the rain!). What’s more, the soil and plants themselves filter out many heavy metals.

Precautionary measures when using rainwater

Regardless, remember these practices to be sure that your rainwater collection is as safe as possible: Get a diverter to avoid collecting the first flush of rain (which usually has a higher concentration of the bad stuff); avoid collecting from copper roofs or wood shake shingles treated with antifungal agents; water the soil, and take care not to splash any leaves (a drip irrigation system would help with this), and wash all your produce before consumption.

If you’re worried about E. coli, which can develop from animal excrement in the water, using an ounce of bleach per 55 gallons will kill the bacteria. Just be sure to wait 24 hours for the chlorine to dissipate. An alternative to using bleach is a UV light disinfecting system that you can purchase specifically for a rain barrel.

If you want to learn more about using harvested rainwater in your garden, especially when considering use in your vegetable garden, here’s a helpful overview from Rutgers State University on rainwater usage.

3. Standard potting mix: Not Organic

Standard potting mix isn’t organic because synthetic fertilizer is commonly added. But there are two easy alternatives to standard commercial potting mix: The first is to simply purchase potting mix labeled as organic. Look for the trusty OMRI stamp, which indicates that the product has been thoroughly tested by organic standards. But even then, you have more control over the contents of the potting mix if you make it yourself — which also happens to be more cost-effective.

The goal is to create a soilless potting mix that is loose and coarse, and drains well but doesn’t dry out easily. Although sphagnum peat moss is a common ingredient in soilless potting mixes, there is some concern that it isn’t a renewable resource or environmentally friendly. Plus, peat moss can often be coated in an anticaking agent that doesn’t qualify as organic. Instead, choose coconut coir, a coconut husk product. It’s environmentally friendly, has a neutral pH (unlike peat moss) and doesn’t dry out quickly. Follow the recipe below to make your own organic potting mix.

How to make your own organic potting mix:

Use an empty wheelbarrow or a large tarp to mix these ingredients together. Don’t fuss too much about being exact. Grab an old nursery pot to scoop the following:

• 4 parts coconut coir — Improves water-retaining capacity
• 4 parts compost — Improves drainage and adds nutrients
• 3 parts perlite — Improves drainage
• Organic granular fertilizer at rate recommended on package

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4. Nonorganic seed: Maybe organic

This is an example of gardening according to your own organic conscience. Using seeds that were harvested from conventionally grown plants does slightly increase the likelihood that there are trace amounts of synthetic chemicals in the seeds. But this trace amount has at most a minor effect on the chemical levels of the plants and produce themselves.

However, some seeds might be treated with chemicals during production. This can create a small risk of chemical exposure to the gardener during planting, though it likely doesn’t have a significant effect on the organic nature of the produce.

Support organic growers

But keep in mind that buying organic seed does support organic farmers, who only use organic practices at all stages of the growing process. If a seed packet is not labeled as organic, check with the company. They might still grow without pesticides and added chemicals but lack the official organically grown label (which can be expensive for growers to procure). GMO is not a factor for home gardeners because mostly only seeds produced for commercial use are genetically modified. (And remember, hybridizing plants is different than genetically modifying them.) Check out a list of our favorite seed sources here.

5. Store-bought compost: Maybe organic

You might have a hard time tracking down the source of each ingredient in store-bought compost, and the materials can vary immensely from one brand to another. If you’re particular about the items you put into your homemade compost (for example, only adding organic food scraps), then finding a commercial compost that you would feel comfortable purchasing is unlikely.

Get quizzical about the labels on bagged compost. Unfortunately, the word organic doesn’t mean much unless it’s accompanied by a certified seal, such as OMRI. If you are buying from a bulk compost provider, don’t be afraid to ask them questions about the source of the compost, the materials included in it and if it has been treated with anything.

Concerns with compost

The biggest concern is that the compost will contain some residual herbicides, such as aminopyralid, which can take a handful of years to break down. Hay and manure often contain this chemical. But you can whip out your lab coat and conduct a test to learn if your compost is possibly contaminated. Fill a seedling tray with a 50-50 mix of potting mix and the compost you want to test. Fill another tray with just the potting mix for the control. Plant green bean seeds, which are especially susceptible to damage, in both trays and provide the same conditions. After the seedlings have at least three sets of leaves, look for curling new growth, a symptom of residual herbicides.

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6. Fertilizers labelled as “organic”: It’s organic

Many organic gardeners aim to build soil that is nutrient-dense enough that it doesn’t require additional fertilizing. Strive to feed the plant with the soil, not with the fertilizer, by regularly amending with organic compost and worm castings and growing cover crops when applicable. This practice takes time. In the short term, organic fertilizers (with OMRI labels) are a good organic solution. Fish fertilizer, such as this one from Neptune’s Harvest, is a popular choice.

7. Raised garden bed materials: Maybe Organic

Raised beds are a fantastic way to control and build a healthy soil, the basis of a thriving organic garden. But some materials used for making raised beds can leach chemicals into the soil. As I mentioned earlier, the soil and plant roots do a good job of filtering out heavy metals and the like. But the metal uptake is a little higher (though still acceptable) for root vegetables, such as beets and potatoes. Thankfully, you can just wash and peel your root crops where most of the heavy metals get stored. The bigger concern is for the people who will come in contact with the raised bed and the chemicals in it every day during garden chores. So to minimize the risk, here are the options to avoid and which to choose instead.

Materials to avoid for raised garden beds

Avoid using any kind of treated lumber, including railroad ties, in the garden. Tires break down with heat and negatively affect the soil within them, so avoid them. Some plastic options are acceptable, but not all. Take caution when repurposing wooden pallets as well, as the wood can be treated with different chemicals.

Best materials for raised garden beds

Choose untreated lumber if you want to build raised beds of wood. Cedar is the most weather-resistant option. If you want to seal your wood, choose raw linseed oil or raw tung oil as organic options. Stone, boulders and galvanized metal are safe materials as well. If you are lining your raised bed with plastic, only use food-grade polyethylene.

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In annual flowerbeds and vegetable gardens, there’s no need to remove fallen leaves — they can actually provide excellent benefits when left where they fall. As the leaves decompose, they enhance the soil structure, improve moisture retention and gradually release nutrients that plants can use in the growing season. To make the most of these benefits, you can leave fallen leaves where they fall all winter and work the leaves into the soil or add them to your compost pile in spring, where they will continue to break down and enrich the compost.

Leaves make great mulch

Decaying leaves serve other purposes too. They create a layer of natural insulation that helps protect the soil and plant roots from extreme cold, and when used as mulch, they can keep weeds from sprouting. Just remember, a couple of inches of leaf mulch will do the trick! Adding too thick of a layer can hinder the leaf material from breaking down properly.

Fallen leaves provide wildlife habitat

Plus they provide a cozy winter habitat for insects and beneficial microorganisms. Want to read more about how to protect your garden's wildlife in fall? Check out this article from the Xerces Society.

You may need to rake leaves in some areas

However, when it comes to perennial beds or grassy areas, a thick layer of wet leaves can actually be problematic. Excessive leaf cover can trap moisture and limit airflow to the grass, leading to issues like rot, mold and fungal growth. This can also damage perennial crowns that are sensitive to being wet over winter and cause problems in spring as plants try to emerge through a soggy, heavy mat of foliage. To avoid these problems, consider raking up the heaviest patches of leaves in these areas or mulching the leaves with your mower. Chopped-up leaves are less likely to smother the lawn or perennials, break down more quickly, are easier to move around and still host insects and wildlife in winter (although leaving them undisturbed is the first choice if providing habitat is your number one goal).

In residential neighborhoods, there’s another factor to consider: your neighbors. As a courtesy, raking up leaves that are likely to blow onto other properties can be a thoughtful way to keep your neighbors happy.

Original question submitted by Bill Newberry, CT

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Watering the garden in fall

As the seasons transition and the temperatures drop, the old garden saying “The last tool you should put away for winter is your garden hoses” is true. Although the soil may not dry out as quickly as it does during the scorching summer months, plants still require attention and care in the fall and winter.

In the cooler seasons, when the soil is not frozen and feels dry to the touch, go ahead and water, whether it’s October or January. But let the soil tell you when it’s time to water: Too much contributes to crown or root rot, especially in winter when many plants are dormant. And be sure to disconnect and empty the hose after each use when a freeze is in the forecast so it doesn’t burst.

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Get rex begonia watering right

Let's dive into the essential topic of watering rex begonias. These gorgeous foliage plants require some watering know-how to keep them in tip-top shape whether you grow them indoors our out.

Watering tips for rex begonias indoors

To get the best from your rex begonias indoors, make sure it's growing in soilless potting mix and a container that has holes in the bottom so water drains easily. Give plants prime real estate near a bright window facing north or east, or if needed, bring in the reinforcements with artificial lighting. When it comes to watering your rex begonias, hold off until that potting mix is dry — too much water causes rot. To find out if it's time to water by inserting your forefinger into the potting mix up to the first knuckle. If the mix is dry, it's time to water. But keep an eye out for crispy leaf edges, too, that's a telltale sign your plant is getting too dry or in too much sun.

Add humidity

Now, indoors can be a bit of a challenge for these begonias. They struggle with low humidity, especially during the winter months. A little trick to battle this is to gather your indoor plants together to create a cozy, humid hangout. You can even try placing a tray filled with pebbles and water beneath the pots, just making sure the plants are not sitting in the water. A trusty humidifier in the room can also work wonders. Oh, and guess what? Your bathroom can be a spa retreat for rex begonias — as long as they get some sunshine through the window. Pro-tip: lowering the thermostat actually ups the humidity game — warmer rooms tend to have drier air.

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Watering rex begonias growing outdoors

When it's time to take your Rex begonias outside, find them a little haven on your porch or a cozy spot with some shade. Don't go overboard with the sun — too much can scorch those unique leaves. And watch out for strong winds and heavy rainfall that could wreak havoc on the foliage and drown the poor plant. Keep an eagle eye on the moisture levels because the great outdoors can speed up the drying process. You don't want your lovely begonias wilting on you! So, to check if it's time to water, stick your finger in the potting mix up to your first knuckle. If it's dry, it's time to water.

Rex begonia recommendations

You can grow any rex begonia outdoors in part to full shade. But here's a pro-tip: when you're growing these plants outdoors, it's best to keep them in containers instead of sticking them directly in the ground. Why, you ask? Soil splashing on the foliage paired with their mounded shape can hold onto moisture, inviting rot or fungal disease. Feed your rex begonias liquid plant food every seven days during the summer (when watering is on a roll) and every 14 days in spring and fall. They need that extra boost to show off their stunning beauty!

Armed with these watering secrets for both for indoor and outdoor care, you'll have a thriving rex begonia collection in no time. Happy watering!

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What you need to know about garden compost

Compost has long been considered gardener’s gold — it's a nutrient-rich organic matter that improves almost any type of soil. Add compost to your soil every year and your plants will thrive. Making your own compost at home not only saves you money but also reduces the amount of food and garden waste you may be sending to the landfill, where the type of decomposition that takes place can increase methane being released into the atmosphere. Let these materials break down at home using the right methods and you won't be contributing to these problems. Here's everything you need to know to start composting for your garden.

The best place for a compost bin or pile

You should place a compost bin or pile in a shady spot that is protected from winds that might blow debris out of an open pile. Some sun is fine, but full hot sun will dry the pile or bin quickly and you’ll need to check it for moisture regularly. Avoid locations where water doesn’t drain well or the pile will stay too wet. Most people like their composting to be conveniently located, but not conspicuous.

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A compost pile should consist of four basic ingredients: Browns, greens, water, air

An open compost pile needs a mixture of browns (carbon-supplying materials) and greens (sources of nitrogen) in roughly a 2:1 ratio. Don’t obsess over that ratio, though. Your pile will still break down if you have too many browns, just not as fast. Too many greens and it might stink a bit. If you notice these things occurring, just toss in more browns or greens to correct the problem and stir up the pile. Water and air finish the recipe for compost — water maintains the decomposition processes, and air movement through the pile is essential to keep microbes that decompose materials healthy.

If you're using a composting bin, you may need to adjust the ratio of browns to greens according to your product instructions.

Materials that are considered “browns”:

• Dried leaves
• Dead plant stems
• Paper
• Newspaper
• Cardboard
• Hay and straw
• Pine needles
• Wood chips

Materials that are considered “greens”:

• Plant-based kitchen waste
• Eggshells
• Garden debris
• Grass clippings
• Coffee grounds/filters/tea bags

Materials you shouldn’t compost

Dairy products, bones, glossy magazine pages, chemically treated yard waste, diseased or pest-infested plant material and oil-cooked leftovers like French fries should not be composted traditionally in passive compost piles since it won't get hot enough to kill any pathogens or break down some chemicals. Commercial composting bins may get hot enough to compost some of these items safely.

Used cat litter

Cat feces (as well as dog, pig and human feces) can contain parasites, bacteria, pathogens and viruses that are harmful to humans and should not come in contact with food-producing plants. Livestock manures, such as horse, cow, chicken, rabbit, sheep and goat, do not usually contain these organisms and can be used on vegetable gardens, preferably after they have aged for nine months.

Walnuts

Walnut trees produce juglone, a chemical that can be toxic to some plants, especially tomatoes, potatoes and peppers, so it is best not to plant a vegetable garden near a living walnut tree. The good news is that in a compost pile, juglone in leaves breaks down in 30 to 40 days, and the juglone in bark chips breaks down in 6 months. So you can compost parts of a walnut tree; just make sure the compost matures and ages before you use it on susceptible crops.

Poisonous plants

Poisonous plants, such as rhubarb leaves, or irritants, such as stinging nettles, will also break down easily in the compost pile. Just be careful handling them while tossing them in and make sure the pile heats up enough to destroy seeds.

DO NOT put poison ivy in a compost pile. Its oils can still be irritating long after the plant is decomposed, persisting on the bin, tools or your gloves.

How big should your garden compost pile be?

A really large compost pile is hard to manage and turn easily, so it is better to have multiple smaller piles or bins. But go too small and your compost pile doesn’t have enough material to stay moist and properly heat and decompose. Between 3 to 5 feet in length, width and depth is the ideal size for a compost pile.

A composting bin can be smaller. Since materials are contained and easily mixed, they are less likely to dry out on the edges. An insulated bin, such as HOTBIN, heats easily and uses high temperatures to accelerate bacterial activity and decomposition so you can have finished compost much quicker than you would in a larger open pile.

When to cover your garden compost

You don’t have to cover a compost pile if you simply create a pile that slowly breaks down over time without heating up or being turned (passive composting). However, if it has been raining a lot, you may want to cover the pile to avoid getting it too wet, which will make it slimy and stinky. A cover will also provide insulation to keep your pile composting after temps drop in the fall and will protect it if animals are prone to digging there for kitchen scraps. A good cover is loosely placed a few inches above the pile so air can still move through the materials. It can be just a tarp, or a wooden lid on your bin. If it inhibits rainfall, make sure to check the pile periodically and water it if it gets dry.

Most composting bins have lids that help keep temperatures up and excess moisture and pests out.

How hot should my garden compost pile get?

Decomposition can start at just 50 degrees F, so compost can be forming even in cool temperatures. Even if the pile never gets hot, you’ll still get usable compost; it just depends on how you’d like to use the end product. There are two kinds of composting methods, and both composting methods will add organic matter to the soil and are equally valuable as compost in their own ways.

Active managed, or hot, compost should reach temperatures of 130 to 150 degrees F so it will destroy weed seeds and diseases, will break down faster, be finer textured, and have more nutrient value as a fertilizer mixed in with soil or potting mix. If the pile gets as hot as 170 degrees F, it can harm helpful bacteria and microorganisms, so turn the pile to help cool it down. Insulated composting bins, such as HOTBIN, are designed to maintain hot composting temperatures and can produce garden compost more quickly.

If it looks like your active compost pile is steaming, that’s normal because the compost pile is warmer than the air temperature around the pile. It is extremely rare for a home compost pile to get hot enough to combust; the pile would have to reach at least 300 degrees F and be poorly mixed, with parts of the pile too wet (creating anaerobic conditions that produce methane gas), along with pockets of dry, combustible materials. A healthy open compost pile should be uniformly as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Turn the pile and add water if it is too dry; turn the pile to air it out if it is too wet. If you use a purchased compost bin, you'll want to read the instructions to be sure you maintain the proper moisture levels for that particular system.

Passive, or inactive, compost does not heat up enough to kill pathogens or seeds, is usually chunkier and still identifiable as the source material and is better as a mulch or top-dressing to the garden, since the slower breakdown causes nutrients to leach out.

How often should you turn a compost pile?

How often you turn the compost depends on what kind of compost you would like to have. An active compost pile should be turned every 3 to 6 days to keep air moving through the pile and to be sure it is moist. This mixes the materials thoroughly and gets debris on the outer edges incorporated into the middle, where most of the decomposition happens. It also makes sure the pile will heat, which will create a finished, usable product in the shortest time possible. If you never turn the pile, it won’t get as hot, so weed seeds and plant diseases won’t be killed. It will take longer for a passive compost pile like this to break down, so finished compost won’t be available to use for at least a year. Even in a passive composting method, an occasional turning helps mix the materials for a better end result.

What to do if your garden compost smells bad

After you add fresh kitchen waste, you may notice some odor, like rotting fruit. This may also attract flies or other critters looking for an interesting meal. Cover the kitchen waste with a layer of browns like dried leaves or grass clippings, shredded paper or cardboard, or even garden soil. A compost pile will also smell funky, like rotten eggs, if it has gotten too wet. When this happens, turn the pile to get air circulating, while adding more browns to the pile to soak up excess moisture and balance the green to brown ratio.

How to get ground wasps out of garden compost

Ground-nesting wasps may take up residence in an undisturbed compost pile if it gets too dry, so the best way to prevent this is to turn the pile regularly (covering fresh kitchen waste with dry leaves or grass clippings as you add it) and maintain moist conditions that heat up the pile enough that they won’t find it habitable. If you notice wasps flying in and out of the pile and suspect there is a nest, soak the pile with water. Keeping it really wet for about a week will encourage the insects to leave. Watch for several days to see if you notice any more wasp activity, and when you are sure they’re gone, then start turning the pile as before. You can also wait until winter when they have died off, then stir up the pile. These strategies also work to discourage mice from invading a compost pile.

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How to tell when garden compost is ready to use

Finished compost will be dark brown, crumbly and have an earthy smell. Compost from an active, hot pile will have cooled. Almost all of the raw materials should be broken down and unrecognizable, though an occasional leaf, stem or fruit pit may still be intact. When your compost looks finished, shovel it onto a screen, like you see above, to separate out large pieces, tossing them back onto the pile to finish. These pieces will contain microbes to help kickstart the new pile, so adding a bit of finished compost to the new materials is always a good idea.

How long it takes depends on the kind of composting you are doing. HOTBIN composters and other compost bins that flip or spin can churn out usable compost in as little as two months because they can be turned often and generate heat to break down smaller quantities of materials faster. Active heat-producing compost piles can be ready in less than six months. Large, passive compost piles will take longer, up to two years, for good-quality compost.

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Chemical fertilizers are just like fast food — they satisfy a plant for now. But why not put your garden on a healthy diet? Your plants will grow bigger and faster and stay healthier, says Jeff Lowenfels, author of Teaming with Microbes, A Gardener’s Guide to the Soil Food Web, if you take care of the beneficial microbes in your soil, thereby improving its structure and nutrient retention. Plus, these microscopic critters help protect plants against diseases and make them more resistant to insect damage, too.

You can improve an entire garden’s beneficial microbes with just a few scoops of compost when you make actively aerated compost tea. This tea is packed with these microbes, and it’s almost free! There’s a little more to it than just soaking compost in a bucket of water, but not much. It’s as simple as water, air and compost. Here's how to make, and use, this amazing stuff.

What compost is best to use to make compost tea?

If your compost is made mostly from green materials — lawn grass, fresh weeds, vegetable parings — it contains beneficial bacteria. If you make it from dried leaves and debris from cleaning the garden in spring — mostly brown stuff — then your compost will have more fungus in it. Why does this matter? Fast-growing veggies and annuals do best with bacteria. Perennials, trees and shrubs prefer more of the beneficial fungus microbes in their soil.

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Compost tea: The brewing process

You can soak compost in water and make tea, but it won’t have as many microbes in it as actively aerated tea. The brewing process pulls lots more healthy microbes from the compost. Brew on a warm day, with water that’s about 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Set the brewer in a shady spot — strong sunlight can kill microbes.

How to Brew Compost Tea

Step 1: Set up

Hook up an aquarium pump with two air valves to two air stones. One rated for an 80-gal. tank will give you lots of bubbles, which help pull the microbes that are already at work in the compost into the water. Place the stones in a 5-gal. plastic bucket and duct tape the tubing to the bottom so they don’t float.

Step 2: Add water

Fill your bucket with water. If you use rainwater you’ve harvested, you can start brewing your tea right away. If it’s chlorinated, let the pump run for several hours before adding compost to get rid of the chlorine, which could kill the microbes.

Step 3: Add the compost

Microbes are already active in well-rotted compost. The tea allows you to collect them in a concentrated form. Put 4 to 5 cups of well-rotted compost in an old nylon stocking or cloth bag and sink it in the water. The nylon stocking will keep the debris out of the tea so it won’t clog up your sprayer later on.

Step 4: Start brewing the compost tea

Run the pump for 24 to 36 hours. When the tea turns coffee brown, it’s ready to use — the sooner, the better after it is brewed, because once the bubbles stop, the microbes start to disappear.

Step 5: The finished product

Unlike tea that’s made from compost simply soaked in water, actively aerated compost tea is brewed and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Compost tea doesn’t store well, so if you must hold it longer than five hours, keep it refrigerated. Even so, the microbes will run out of food and start to eat each other. If it starts to smell bad, you need to make a fresh batch.

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How do you apply compost tea in the garden?

The easiest application method is to pour the freshly brewed tea onto the soil. Unlike most chemical fertilizers, you can drench your plants with full-strength compost tea without any damage. In fact, you really can’t overdo it. If you want to dilute it and spray it on the foliage, just a cup or two of tea to a gallon of chlorine-free water will treat a large garden.

• Spraying annuals or vegetables? Use compost made with mostly green material, or add a couple tablespoons of unsulphured molasses to the compost before you brew it.
• Feeding perennials and shrubs? Use compost made with mostly brown stuff or add a tablespoon or two of liquid kelp or a hydrolyzed fish fertilizer to your brew.

When should I apply compost tea?

Late fall, before the ground turns cold, is a good time to pour compost tea on the soil. Hungry microbes will begin to break down the leaf litter and will get right to work again in spring. If you’re pouring tea as a soil drench, any time of day is fine — the microbes quickly sink into the soil.

Use on foliage, too

Spray foliage just as your plants start to leaf out in spring, and later in the growing season if plants need a boost. It’ll help prevent plant diseases and insect damage. If you’re applying tea to foliage, ultraviolet rays will kill microbes. So before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m., when the sun isn’t quite as strong, is the ideal time to spray it on.

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Take care of your equipment

As soon as you finish, make sure to flush the equipment with clean water, as a slime will form from the cmopost extract. If the slime begins to dry, you may need to use baking soda for a little extra muscle to clean it off. Don’t let the slime harden because it’ll clog the hoses and air stones.

With regular doses of actively aerated compost tea, your soil will thrive, and so will your plants!

Bigleaf hydrangeas can change color!

Some bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have a unique ability to change flower colors from pink to blue, or vice versa. This change is a response to the amount of aluminum in the soil that the plant can use. In acidic soils, aluminum is readily available and a hydrangea’s roots can absorb this mineral. But in alkaline soils, plants are inhibited from drawing the element into their roots. If you’ve ever planted a beautiful blue hydrangea and the next year it bloomed pink, it is because your soil is too alkaline.

By changing the soil’s pH, you can manipulate the color of a bigleaf hydrangea, but only if they were pink or blue to start with. White hydrangeas will always be white.

Get a soil test

Whether you grow in a container or in the ground, get a professional soil test to get an accurate measure of whether your soil or potting mix is acidic or alkaline. Though not quite as specific as a professional test (and you may not get N-P-K levels), you can buy a home test kit or a pH meter at the garden center to get a pH reading. Then you can amend your soil properly to manipulate the color of your bigleaf hydrangea.

How to get a professional soil test

Your local county extension office or area universities may be able to direct you to a lab where you can send a soil sample to get an accurate test. Or check out this site to find a list of labs that perform soil tests: North American Proficiency Testing Program (NAPT)

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How to change the color of your bigleaf hydrangea

After you've found out what your soil pH is, here are ways to make your bigleaf hydrangea blooms turn pink or blue.

For a bigleaf hydrangea to bloom pink, a pH of 6.0 to 6.2 is ideal. Try one of these methods:

• Use a commercial product to change the color, such as Color Me Pink™, according to directions on the package.
  
• In fall or early spring, spread dolomitic limestone around the plant at 1 cup per 10 square feet and water in.
  
• Add 1 TBSP hydrated lime to a gallon of water and water once a month starting in early spring.
  
• Fertilize with high nitrogen and high phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 25-10-10, to inhibit aluminum uptake. The extra nitrogen will help combat iron chlorosis that may happen if your pH raises above 6.4.
  

For a bigleaf hydrangea to bloom blue, pH of 5.2 to 5.5 is best. Try one of these methods:

• Use a commercial product to change the color, such as Color Me Blue™, according to directions on the package.
  
• Add 1 TBSP aluminum sulfate to a gallon of water and water the plant once a month starting in early spring. Be sure hydrangeas are hydrated before you treat because an excess of aluminum absorbed quickly can burn plants.
  
• Mix organic matter such as compost, chopped oak leaves, peat moss and coffee grounds into the soil to help lower pH. This is slow acting, but a good thing to do annually to maintain a lower pH around your hydrangea.
  
• Fertilize with high potassium, low phosphate fertilizer, such as 25-5-30. Potassium will help increase aluminum uptake. Using ammonium sulfate as a nitrogen source in the fertilizer will also help to keep pH low.
  

But what if my hydrangea is purple?

A neutral pH between acidic and alkaline will result in a color somewhere in the middle. Closer to alkaline, the flowers may tend toward pink in color, giving you lavender. More acidic and the color will look more purple with bluer tones. And, they may change slightly as they age from a blue-purple to a lavender pink.

Sometimes a hydrangea in neutral soil will have a mix of all the colors as though it can’t decide which color to be. If you can’t decide either, and don’t want to mess with your soil’s pH, try L. A. Dreamin’^®, a hydrangea cultivar that will produce varying shades of pink, lavender, and blue blooms all at once without soil amendments. It grows up to 5 feet tall and wide in USDA zones 5 to 10.

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Grow hydrangeas in a container to change bloom color easier

Raising or lowering pH takes time for additives to affect soil and is not usually permanent, so you must maintain the desired pH every year for the blooms to stay the color you want. That’s why growing in a container is an easy solution. Most potting mixes are soilless and don’t have the naturally occurring aluminum that soil does, so you can change the pH to be just what your plant needs.

Hydrangea color change tips:

• More intensely colored hydrangeas will be more intense after a color change. In other words, if your hydrangea was a deep pink, it will be a darker blue.
  
• Pastel colors will change to a comparably pale color and you can’t make it darker. Do not add more amendments to get a darker color — it will not help and may cause problems in your soil. Use amendments according to package directions.
  
• White bigleaf hydrangeas will never turn colors no matter what the soil type, though some blush pink or even red as the flowers age.
  
• Red hydrangeas are bred to be a deep, dark shade of almost-red pink (not really a true red), so grow them in alkaline soil to get the best color.
  
• Changing soil pH is a slow process and must be maintained throughout the growing season to ensure your hydrangea stays the color you want.
  

How to water succulents right

People think succulents are easy to grow — just put them in the sun and rarely water them, right? Actually, many succulents are native to cool, arid locations, so too much sun and heat can cause them to dry out too fast.

Succulents do need to be watered, just not as often as tropical houseplants. Every one to two weeks should be right, depending on the size of the pot, light and temperature. Take a look here for some common symptoms your succulents might show if they are suffering from watering problems.

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Brown or burned leaves

Too much sun can cause scorching and browning of leaves, whether the plant is watered correctly or not. The ‘Letizia’ sedeveria above was burned by water standing on the foliage in hot sun. Browning on the tips indicates sunburn in dry conditions when the plant needs more water. Some leaves may fall off if damaged too much.

What to do if my succulent has brown or burned leaves

Move the plant out of hot, direct sun. Scorched leaves will not improve in appearance, so trim them off. Make sure the plant is not too wet or too dry.

Shriveled leaves

Underwatered succulents like the elephant bush above will have shriveled foliage that is often dull or light in color. If left too long, some leaves will drop off, especially if touched.

What to do if my succulent has shriveled leaves

Give an underwatered succulent a good thorough drink until water runs out the drainage hole. If the soil is pulling away from the side of the pot, soak the whole container in a pan of water for a half hour to rehydrate the root ball, then dump out any excess water.

Losing leaves

Many succulents will lose lower leaves as they age and grow. But when it loses a significant number of leaves all at once, like the echeveria above, it has been too dry and is trying to conserve moisture.

What to do if my succulent is losing leaves

Give it a soak and check it more frequently.

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Soft, mushy stems

An overwatered succulent, like the aloe vera above, will have yellow, soft, or even squishy leaves. The stem may be blackened at the soil line where it has rotted off.

What to do if my succulent has soft, mushy leaves

If it is just yellowing and soft, dry it out and it may recover. A succulent with a rotted stem may be a lost cause, though you might be able to start a cutting.

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