Have you ever frozen in the middle of a routine task and wondered, “Wait, should I be doing this differently?” Unlike commercial organic growers who have to follow specific regulations, home gardeners are free to grow according to their own standards of organic. It’s great to have this flexibility, but at times it’s puzzling to know which practices are organic, which aren’t and which are somewhere in between.

The truth is that organic gardening is about more than avoiding synthetic elements or chemicals that are harmful to the environment. A better goal is to grow in tandem with nature to create a healthy, vibrant growing environment for strong plants, which can then be naturally resilient against pest and disease. With that in mind, take a look at some of these common garden situations and be informed. Figure out which practices work best for your garden and your growing goals, and go with it.

1. White vinegar: It’s organic

Most white vinegars are derived from grain-based alcohol (though sometimes they are synthetically produced). Official label or not, vinegar is an organic product that won’t contribute unwanted chemicals to the garden. But you still need to be careful when you use it as a weed killer.

Household vinegar vs. horticultural vinegar

Household white vinegar contains 5 percent acetic acid and likely won’t slow weeds down much. However, horticultural vinegar has 10 to 20 percent. This potency will knock foliage and stems out, but the roots will probably still survive. It’s also more dangerous for you to use. Gear up with a mask, gloves and goggles to avoid burning skin or damaging eyes. And watch where you spray: Vinegar has no mercy on nearby ornamental plants and might be fatal to frogs upon contact.

More organic ways to deal with weeds

If you’ve only ever tried vinegar and been discouraged, there are other organic options for effectively warding off weeds. The best practices include a little bit of elbow grease: A layer of newspaper followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch goes a long way in suppressing weeds. Grow ground covers in the bare spots of your beds. And simply be ready to frequently stroll your garden with hoe in hand.

You Might Also Like:
5 Ways to Get Rid of Weeds Without Pulling Them
Basics of Permaculture
Problem-Solving Gardening Books

2. Harvested rainwater: Maybe Organic

It’s true that water harvested from rain barrels might be contaminated with chemicals leached from the roof. But recent studies by Rutgers University and the Washington State Department of Ecology reveal that it might not be as harmful as we once thought. Heavy metals and chemicals are minimally present in the water, and generally the levels are safe according to scientific standards. But if the chemicals are still there, should the water be used in an organic garden?

The answer is yes, it’s probably still OK. Metal and chemical levels in harvested rainwater don’t differ much from average tap water (or even the rain!). What’s more, the soil and plants themselves filter out many heavy metals.

Precautionary measures when using rainwater

Regardless, remember these practices to be sure that your rainwater collection is as safe as possible: Get a diverter to avoid collecting the first flush of rain (which usually has a higher concentration of the bad stuff); avoid collecting from copper roofs or wood shake shingles treated with antifungal agents; water the soil, and take care not to splash any leaves (a drip irrigation system would help with this), and wash all your produce before consumption.

If you’re worried about E. coli, which can develop from animal excrement in the water, using an ounce of bleach per 55 gallons will kill the bacteria. Just be sure to wait 24 hours for the chlorine to dissipate. An alternative to using bleach is a UV light disinfecting system that you can purchase specifically for a rain barrel.

If you want to learn more about using harvested rainwater in your garden, especially when considering use in your vegetable garden, here’s a helpful overview from Rutgers State University on rainwater usage.

3. Standard potting mix: Not Organic

Standard potting mix isn’t organic because synthetic fertilizer is commonly added. But there are two easy alternatives to standard commercial potting mix: The first is to simply purchase potting mix labeled as organic. Look for the trusty OMRI stamp, which indicates that the product has been thoroughly tested by organic standards. But even then, you have more control over the contents of the potting mix if you make it yourself — which also happens to be more cost-effective.

The goal is to create a soilless potting mix that is loose and coarse, and drains well but doesn’t dry out easily. Although sphagnum peat moss is a common ingredient in soilless potting mixes, there is some concern that it isn’t a renewable resource or environmentally friendly. Plus, peat moss can often be coated in an anticaking agent that doesn’t qualify as organic. Instead, choose coconut coir, a coconut husk product. It’s environmentally friendly, has a neutral pH (unlike peat moss) and doesn’t dry out quickly. Follow the recipe below to make your own organic potting mix.

How to make your own organic potting mix:

Use an empty wheelbarrow or a large tarp to mix these ingredients together. Don’t fuss too much about being exact. Grab an old nursery pot to scoop the following:

• 4 parts coconut coir — Improves water-retaining capacity
• 4 parts compost — Improves drainage and adds nutrients
• 3 parts perlite — Improves drainage
• Organic granular fertilizer at rate recommended on package

You Might Also Like:
Tips for Container Gardening
Are You Using the Right Type of Garden Mulch?
Watch Our Gardening Videos on YouTube

4. Nonorganic seed: Maybe organic

This is an example of gardening according to your own organic conscience. Using seeds that were harvested from conventionally grown plants does slightly increase the likelihood that there are trace amounts of synthetic chemicals in the seeds. But this trace amount has at most a minor effect on the chemical levels of the plants and produce themselves.

However, some seeds might be treated with chemicals during production. This can create a small risk of chemical exposure to the gardener during planting, though it likely doesn’t have a significant effect on the organic nature of the produce.

Support organic growers

But keep in mind that buying organic seed does support organic farmers, who only use organic practices at all stages of the growing process. If a seed packet is not labeled as organic, check with the company. They might still grow without pesticides and added chemicals but lack the official organically grown label (which can be expensive for growers to procure). GMO is not a factor for home gardeners because mostly only seeds produced for commercial use are genetically modified. (And remember, hybridizing plants is different than genetically modifying them.) Check out a list of our favorite seed sources here.

5. Store-bought compost: Maybe organic

You might have a hard time tracking down the source of each ingredient in store-bought compost, and the materials can vary immensely from one brand to another. If you’re particular about the items you put into your homemade compost (for example, only adding organic food scraps), then finding a commercial compost that you would feel comfortable purchasing is unlikely.

Get quizzical about the labels on bagged compost. Unfortunately, the word organic doesn’t mean much unless it’s accompanied by a certified seal, such as OMRI. If you are buying from a bulk compost provider, don’t be afraid to ask them questions about the source of the compost, the materials included in it and if it has been treated with anything.

Concerns with compost

The biggest concern is that the compost will contain some residual herbicides, such as aminopyralid, which can take a handful of years to break down. Hay and manure often contain this chemical. But you can whip out your lab coat and conduct a test to learn if your compost is possibly contaminated. Fill a seedling tray with a 50-50 mix of potting mix and the compost you want to test. Fill another tray with just the potting mix for the control. Plant green bean seeds, which are especially susceptible to damage, in both trays and provide the same conditions. After the seedlings have at least three sets of leaves, look for curling new growth, a symptom of residual herbicides.

You Might Also Like:
Garden Compost Basics
How to Build a Keyhole Garden Bed

6. Fertilizers labelled as “organic”: It’s organic

Many organic gardeners aim to build soil that is nutrient-dense enough that it doesn’t require additional fertilizing. Strive to feed the plant with the soil, not with the fertilizer, by regularly amending with organic compost and worm castings and growing cover crops when applicable. This practice takes time. In the short term, organic fertilizers (with OMRI labels) are a good organic solution. Fish fertilizer, such as this one from Neptune’s Harvest, is a popular choice.

7. Raised garden bed materials: Maybe Organic

Raised beds are a fantastic way to control and build a healthy soil, the basis of a thriving organic garden. But some materials used for making raised beds can leach chemicals into the soil. As I mentioned earlier, the soil and plant roots do a good job of filtering out heavy metals and the like. But the metal uptake is a little higher (though still acceptable) for root vegetables, such as beets and potatoes. Thankfully, you can just wash and peel your root crops where most of the heavy metals get stored. The bigger concern is for the people who will come in contact with the raised bed and the chemicals in it every day during garden chores. So to minimize the risk, here are the options to avoid and which to choose instead.

Materials to avoid for raised garden beds

Avoid using any kind of treated lumber, including railroad ties, in the garden. Tires break down with heat and negatively affect the soil within them, so avoid them. Some plastic options are acceptable, but not all. Take caution when repurposing wooden pallets as well, as the wood can be treated with different chemicals.

Best materials for raised garden beds

Choose untreated lumber if you want to build raised beds of wood. Cedar is the most weather-resistant option. If you want to seal your wood, choose raw linseed oil or raw tung oil as organic options. Stone, boulders and galvanized metal are safe materials as well. If you are lining your raised bed with plastic, only use food-grade polyethylene.

You Might Also Like:
How to Build a Simple Wooden Raised Garden Bed
Vegetable Gardening in Galvanized Garden Beds
Classic Woodworking Project Plans

In annual flowerbeds and vegetable gardens, there’s no need to remove fallen leaves — they can actually provide excellent benefits when left where they fall. As the leaves decompose, they enhance the soil structure, improve moisture retention and gradually release nutrients that plants can use in the growing season. To make the most of these benefits, you can leave fallen leaves where they fall all winter and work the leaves into the soil or add them to your compost pile in spring, where they will continue to break down and enrich the compost.

Leaves make great mulch

Decaying leaves serve other purposes too. They create a layer of natural insulation that helps protect the soil and plant roots from extreme cold, and when used as mulch, they can keep weeds from sprouting. Just remember, a couple of inches of leaf mulch will do the trick! Adding too thick of a layer can hinder the leaf material from breaking down properly.

Fallen leaves provide wildlife habitat

Plus they provide a cozy winter habitat for insects and beneficial microorganisms. Want to read more about how to protect your garden's wildlife in fall? Check out this article from the Xerces Society.

You may need to rake leaves in some areas

However, when it comes to perennial beds or grassy areas, a thick layer of wet leaves can actually be problematic. Excessive leaf cover can trap moisture and limit airflow to the grass, leading to issues like rot, mold and fungal growth. This can also damage perennial crowns that are sensitive to being wet over winter and cause problems in spring as plants try to emerge through a soggy, heavy mat of foliage. To avoid these problems, consider raking up the heaviest patches of leaves in these areas or mulching the leaves with your mower. Chopped-up leaves are less likely to smother the lawn or perennials, break down more quickly, are easier to move around and still host insects and wildlife in winter (although leaving them undisturbed is the first choice if providing habitat is your number one goal).

In residential neighborhoods, there’s another factor to consider: your neighbors. As a courtesy, raking up leaves that are likely to blow onto other properties can be a thoughtful way to keep your neighbors happy.

Original question submitted by Bill Newberry, CT

You Might Also Like:
Native Bees Overwinter in Unexpected Places
What's Your Raking Personality?
Leaf Mulch Tip
Send Us Your Garden Questions!

Watering the garden in fall

As the seasons transition and the temperatures drop, the old garden saying “The last tool you should put away for winter is your garden hoses” is true. Although the soil may not dry out as quickly as it does during the scorching summer months, plants still require attention and care in the fall and winter.

In the cooler seasons, when the soil is not frozen and feels dry to the touch, go ahead and water, whether it’s October or January. But let the soil tell you when it’s time to water: Too much contributes to crown or root rot, especially in winter when many plants are dormant. And be sure to disconnect and empty the hose after each use when a freeze is in the forecast so it doesn’t burst.

You Might Also Like:
Submit Your Garden Questions!
How to Water Perennial Plants
Fall Garden Checklist
Pros & Cons of Different Garden Hoses

Get rex begonia watering right

Let's dive into the essential topic of watering rex begonias. These gorgeous foliage plants require some watering know-how to keep them in tip-top shape whether you grow them indoors our out.

Watering tips for rex begonias indoors

To get the best from your rex begonias indoors, make sure it's growing in soilless potting mix and a container that has holes in the bottom so water drains easily. Give plants prime real estate near a bright window facing north or east, or if needed, bring in the reinforcements with artificial lighting. When it comes to watering your rex begonias, hold off until that potting mix is dry — too much water causes rot. To find out if it's time to water by inserting your forefinger into the potting mix up to the first knuckle. If the mix is dry, it's time to water. But keep an eye out for crispy leaf edges, too, that's a telltale sign your plant is getting too dry or in too much sun.

Add humidity

Now, indoors can be a bit of a challenge for these begonias. They struggle with low humidity, especially during the winter months. A little trick to battle this is to gather your indoor plants together to create a cozy, humid hangout. You can even try placing a tray filled with pebbles and water beneath the pots, just making sure the plants are not sitting in the water. A trusty humidifier in the room can also work wonders. Oh, and guess what? Your bathroom can be a spa retreat for rex begonias — as long as they get some sunshine through the window. Pro-tip: lowering the thermostat actually ups the humidity game — warmer rooms tend to have drier air.

Products to Help Grow Healthy Rex Begonias:
Humidifier
artificial lighting
Houseplant Watering Can

Watering rex begonias growing outdoors

When it's time to take your Rex begonias outside, find them a little haven on your porch or a cozy spot with some shade. Don't go overboard with the sun — too much can scorch those unique leaves. And watch out for strong winds and heavy rainfall that could wreak havoc on the foliage and drown the poor plant. Keep an eagle eye on the moisture levels because the great outdoors can speed up the drying process. You don't want your lovely begonias wilting on you! So, to check if it's time to water, stick your finger in the potting mix up to your first knuckle. If it's dry, it's time to water.

Rex begonia recommendations

You can grow any rex begonia outdoors in part to full shade. But here's a pro-tip: when you're growing these plants outdoors, it's best to keep them in containers instead of sticking them directly in the ground. Why, you ask? Soil splashing on the foliage paired with their mounded shape can hold onto moisture, inviting rot or fungal disease. Feed your rex begonias liquid plant food every seven days during the summer (when watering is on a roll) and every 14 days in spring and fall. They need that extra boost to show off their stunning beauty!

Armed with these watering secrets for both for indoor and outdoor care, you'll have a thriving rex begonia collection in no time. Happy watering!

You Might Also Like:
Rex Begonia Growing Guide
Do Rex Begonias Like Sun or Shade?
How to Water Houseplants
10 Best Shade Plants
Best Foliage Plants for Containers

What you need to know about garden compost

Compost has long been considered gardener’s gold — it's a nutrient-rich organic matter that improves almost any type of soil. Add compost to your soil every year and your plants will thrive. Making your own compost at home not only saves you money but also reduces the amount of food and garden waste you may be sending to the landfill, where the type of decomposition that takes place can increase methane being released into the atmosphere. Let these materials break down at home using the right methods and you won't be contributing to these problems. Here's everything you need to know to start composting for your garden.

The best place for a compost bin or pile

You should place a compost bin or pile in a shady spot that is protected from winds that might blow debris out of an open pile. Some sun is fine, but full hot sun will dry the pile or bin quickly and you’ll need to check it for moisture regularly. Avoid locations where water doesn’t drain well or the pile will stay too wet. Most people like their composting to be conveniently located, but not conspicuous.

You Might Also Like:
How to Make Compost Tea
How to Build a Keyhole Garden Bed
6 Organic Garden Products to Use in Your Garden

A compost pile should consist of four basic ingredients: Browns, greens, water, air

An open compost pile needs a mixture of browns (carbon-supplying materials) and greens (sources of nitrogen) in roughly a 2:1 ratio. Don’t obsess over that ratio, though. Your pile will still break down if you have too many browns, just not as fast. Too many greens and it might stink a bit. If you notice these things occurring, just toss in more browns or greens to correct the problem and stir up the pile. Water and air finish the recipe for compost — water maintains the decomposition processes, and air movement through the pile is essential to keep microbes that decompose materials healthy.

If you're using a composting bin, you may need to adjust the ratio of browns to greens according to your product instructions.

Materials that are considered “browns”:

• Dried leaves
• Dead plant stems
• Paper
• Newspaper
• Cardboard
• Hay and straw
• Pine needles
• Wood chips

Materials that are considered “greens”:

• Plant-based kitchen waste
• Eggshells
• Garden debris
• Grass clippings
• Coffee grounds/filters/tea bags

Materials you shouldn’t compost

Dairy products, bones, glossy magazine pages, chemically treated yard waste, diseased or pest-infested plant material and oil-cooked leftovers like French fries should not be composted traditionally in passive compost piles since it won't get hot enough to kill any pathogens or break down some chemicals. Commercial composting bins may get hot enough to compost some of these items safely.

Used cat litter

Cat feces (as well as dog, pig and human feces) can contain parasites, bacteria, pathogens and viruses that are harmful to humans and should not come in contact with food-producing plants. Livestock manures, such as horse, cow, chicken, rabbit, sheep and goat, do not usually contain these organisms and can be used on vegetable gardens, preferably after they have aged for nine months.

Walnuts

Walnut trees produce juglone, a chemical that can be toxic to some plants, especially tomatoes, potatoes and peppers, so it is best not to plant a vegetable garden near a living walnut tree. The good news is that in a compost pile, juglone in leaves breaks down in 30 to 40 days, and the juglone in bark chips breaks down in 6 months. So you can compost parts of a walnut tree; just make sure the compost matures and ages before you use it on susceptible crops.

Poisonous plants

Poisonous plants, such as rhubarb leaves, or irritants, such as stinging nettles, will also break down easily in the compost pile. Just be careful handling them while tossing them in and make sure the pile heats up enough to destroy seeds.

DO NOT put poison ivy in a compost pile. Its oils can still be irritating long after the plant is decomposed, persisting on the bin, tools or your gloves.

How big should your garden compost pile be?

A really large compost pile is hard to manage and turn easily, so it is better to have multiple smaller piles or bins. But go too small and your compost pile doesn’t have enough material to stay moist and properly heat and decompose. Between 3 to 5 feet in length, width and depth is the ideal size for a compost pile.

A composting bin can be smaller. Since materials are contained and easily mixed, they are less likely to dry out on the edges. An insulated bin, such as HOTBIN, heats easily and uses high temperatures to accelerate bacterial activity and decomposition so you can have finished compost much quicker than you would in a larger open pile.

When to cover your garden compost

You don’t have to cover a compost pile if you simply create a pile that slowly breaks down over time without heating up or being turned (passive composting). However, if it has been raining a lot, you may want to cover the pile to avoid getting it too wet, which will make it slimy and stinky. A cover will also provide insulation to keep your pile composting after temps drop in the fall and will protect it if animals are prone to digging there for kitchen scraps. A good cover is loosely placed a few inches above the pile so air can still move through the materials. It can be just a tarp, or a wooden lid on your bin. If it inhibits rainfall, make sure to check the pile periodically and water it if it gets dry.

Most composting bins have lids that help keep temperatures up and excess moisture and pests out.

How hot should my garden compost pile get?

Decomposition can start at just 50 degrees F, so compost can be forming even in cool temperatures. Even if the pile never gets hot, you’ll still get usable compost; it just depends on how you’d like to use the end product. There are two kinds of composting methods, and both composting methods will add organic matter to the soil and are equally valuable as compost in their own ways.

Active managed, or hot, compost should reach temperatures of 130 to 150 degrees F so it will destroy weed seeds and diseases, will break down faster, be finer textured, and have more nutrient value as a fertilizer mixed in with soil or potting mix. If the pile gets as hot as 170 degrees F, it can harm helpful bacteria and microorganisms, so turn the pile to help cool it down. Insulated composting bins, such as HOTBIN, are designed to maintain hot composting temperatures and can produce garden compost more quickly.

If it looks like your active compost pile is steaming, that’s normal because the compost pile is warmer than the air temperature around the pile. It is extremely rare for a home compost pile to get hot enough to combust; the pile would have to reach at least 300 degrees F and be poorly mixed, with parts of the pile too wet (creating anaerobic conditions that produce methane gas), along with pockets of dry, combustible materials. A healthy open compost pile should be uniformly as moist as a wrung-out sponge. Turn the pile and add water if it is too dry; turn the pile to air it out if it is too wet. If you use a purchased compost bin, you'll want to read the instructions to be sure you maintain the proper moisture levels for that particular system.

Passive, or inactive, compost does not heat up enough to kill pathogens or seeds, is usually chunkier and still identifiable as the source material and is better as a mulch or top-dressing to the garden, since the slower breakdown causes nutrients to leach out.

How often should you turn a compost pile?

How often you turn the compost depends on what kind of compost you would like to have. An active compost pile should be turned every 3 to 6 days to keep air moving through the pile and to be sure it is moist. This mixes the materials thoroughly and gets debris on the outer edges incorporated into the middle, where most of the decomposition happens. It also makes sure the pile will heat, which will create a finished, usable product in the shortest time possible. If you never turn the pile, it won’t get as hot, so weed seeds and plant diseases won’t be killed. It will take longer for a passive compost pile like this to break down, so finished compost won’t be available to use for at least a year. Even in a passive composting method, an occasional turning helps mix the materials for a better end result.

What to do if your garden compost smells bad

After you add fresh kitchen waste, you may notice some odor, like rotting fruit. This may also attract flies or other critters looking for an interesting meal. Cover the kitchen waste with a layer of browns like dried leaves or grass clippings, shredded paper or cardboard, or even garden soil. A compost pile will also smell funky, like rotten eggs, if it has gotten too wet. When this happens, turn the pile to get air circulating, while adding more browns to the pile to soak up excess moisture and balance the green to brown ratio.

How to get ground wasps out of garden compost

Ground-nesting wasps may take up residence in an undisturbed compost pile if it gets too dry, so the best way to prevent this is to turn the pile regularly (covering fresh kitchen waste with dry leaves or grass clippings as you add it) and maintain moist conditions that heat up the pile enough that they won’t find it habitable. If you notice wasps flying in and out of the pile and suspect there is a nest, soak the pile with water. Keeping it really wet for about a week will encourage the insects to leave. Watch for several days to see if you notice any more wasp activity, and when you are sure they’re gone, then start turning the pile as before. You can also wait until winter when they have died off, then stir up the pile. These strategies also work to discourage mice from invading a compost pile.

You Might Also Like:
Organic Yellow Jacket Control
5 Home Remedies for Fungal Diseases in the Garden
7 Common Garden Pests

How to tell when garden compost is ready to use

Finished compost will be dark brown, crumbly and have an earthy smell. Compost from an active, hot pile will have cooled. Almost all of the raw materials should be broken down and unrecognizable, though an occasional leaf, stem or fruit pit may still be intact. When your compost looks finished, shovel it onto a screen, like you see above, to separate out large pieces, tossing them back onto the pile to finish. These pieces will contain microbes to help kickstart the new pile, so adding a bit of finished compost to the new materials is always a good idea.

How long it takes depends on the kind of composting you are doing. HOTBIN composters and other compost bins that flip or spin can churn out usable compost in as little as two months because they can be turned often and generate heat to break down smaller quantities of materials faster. Active heat-producing compost piles can be ready in less than six months. Large, passive compost piles will take longer, up to two years, for good-quality compost.

Composting Products You Might Like:
Compost Starter
Compost Turning Tool

Chemical fertilizers are just like fast food — they satisfy a plant for now. But why not put your garden on a healthy diet? Your plants will grow bigger and faster and stay healthier, says Jeff Lowenfels, author of Teaming with Microbes, A Gardener’s Guide to the Soil Food Web, if you take care of the beneficial microbes in your soil, thereby improving its structure and nutrient retention. Plus, these microscopic critters help protect plants against diseases and make them more resistant to insect damage, too.

You can improve an entire garden’s beneficial microbes with just a few scoops of compost when you make actively aerated compost tea. This tea is packed with these microbes, and it’s almost free! There’s a little more to it than just soaking compost in a bucket of water, but not much. It’s as simple as water, air and compost. Here's how to make, and use, this amazing stuff.

What compost is best to use to make compost tea?

If your compost is made mostly from green materials — lawn grass, fresh weeds, vegetable parings — it contains beneficial bacteria. If you make it from dried leaves and debris from cleaning the garden in spring — mostly brown stuff — then your compost will have more fungus in it. Why does this matter? Fast-growing veggies and annuals do best with bacteria. Perennials, trees and shrubs prefer more of the beneficial fungus microbes in their soil.

You Might Also Like:
Six Organic Products for Your Garden
How to Water Perennial Plants
Beneficial Garden Insects

Compost tea: The brewing process

You can soak compost in water and make tea, but it won’t have as many microbes in it as actively aerated tea. The brewing process pulls lots more healthy microbes from the compost. Brew on a warm day, with water that’s about 72 degrees Fahrenheit. Set the brewer in a shady spot — strong sunlight can kill microbes.

How to Brew Compost Tea

Step 1: Set up

Hook up an aquarium pump with two air valves to two air stones. One rated for an 80-gal. tank will give you lots of bubbles, which help pull the microbes that are already at work in the compost into the water. Place the stones in a 5-gal. plastic bucket and duct tape the tubing to the bottom so they don’t float.

Step 2: Add water

Fill your bucket with water. If you use rainwater you’ve harvested, you can start brewing your tea right away. If it’s chlorinated, let the pump run for several hours before adding compost to get rid of the chlorine, which could kill the microbes.

Step 3: Add the compost

Microbes are already active in well-rotted compost. The tea allows you to collect them in a concentrated form. Put 4 to 5 cups of well-rotted compost in an old nylon stocking or cloth bag and sink it in the water. The nylon stocking will keep the debris out of the tea so it won’t clog up your sprayer later on.

Step 4: Start brewing the compost tea

Run the pump for 24 to 36 hours. When the tea turns coffee brown, it’s ready to use — the sooner, the better after it is brewed, because once the bubbles stop, the microbes start to disappear.

Step 5: The finished product

Unlike tea that’s made from compost simply soaked in water, actively aerated compost tea is brewed and will have a pleasant, earthy smell. Compost tea doesn’t store well, so if you must hold it longer than five hours, keep it refrigerated. Even so, the microbes will run out of food and start to eat each other. If it starts to smell bad, you need to make a fresh batch.

You Might Also Like:
How to Use Fertilizer in Your Garden
Garden Gate's Reading List
Wheelbarrows, Garden Carts and More Ways to Haul Stuff

How do you apply compost tea in the garden?

The easiest application method is to pour the freshly brewed tea onto the soil. Unlike most chemical fertilizers, you can drench your plants with full-strength compost tea without any damage. In fact, you really can’t overdo it. If you want to dilute it and spray it on the foliage, just a cup or two of tea to a gallon of chlorine-free water will treat a large garden.

• Spraying annuals or vegetables? Use compost made with mostly green material, or add a couple tablespoons of unsulphured molasses to the compost before you brew it.
• Feeding perennials and shrubs? Use compost made with mostly brown stuff or add a tablespoon or two of liquid kelp or a hydrolyzed fish fertilizer to your brew.

When should I apply compost tea?

Late fall, before the ground turns cold, is a good time to pour compost tea on the soil. Hungry microbes will begin to break down the leaf litter and will get right to work again in spring. If you’re pouring tea as a soil drench, any time of day is fine — the microbes quickly sink into the soil.

Use on foliage, too

Spray foliage just as your plants start to leaf out in spring, and later in the growing season if plants need a boost. It’ll help prevent plant diseases and insect damage. If you’re applying tea to foliage, ultraviolet rays will kill microbes. So before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m., when the sun isn’t quite as strong, is the ideal time to spray it on.

Items You Might Find Helpful:
5-gallon Buckets
Plant Sprayer
Watering Can

Take care of your equipment

As soon as you finish, make sure to flush the equipment with clean water, as a slime will form from the cmopost extract. If the slime begins to dry, you may need to use baking soda for a little extra muscle to clean it off. Don’t let the slime harden because it’ll clog the hoses and air stones.

With regular doses of actively aerated compost tea, your soil will thrive, and so will your plants!

Bigleaf hydrangeas can change color!

Some bigleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea macrophylla) have a unique ability to change flower colors from pink to blue, or vice versa. This change is a response to the amount of aluminum in the soil that the plant can use. In acidic soils, aluminum is readily available and a hydrangea’s roots can absorb this mineral. But in alkaline soils, plants are inhibited from drawing the element into their roots. If you’ve ever planted a beautiful blue hydrangea and the next year it bloomed pink, it is because your soil is too alkaline.

By changing the soil’s pH, you can manipulate the color of a bigleaf hydrangea, but only if they were pink or blue to start with. White hydrangeas will always be white.

Get a soil test

Whether you grow in a container or in the ground, get a professional soil test to get an accurate measure of whether your soil or potting mix is acidic or alkaline. Though not quite as specific as a professional test (and you may not get N-P-K levels), you can buy a home test kit or a pH meter at the garden center to get a pH reading. Then you can amend your soil properly to manipulate the color of your bigleaf hydrangea.

How to get a professional soil test

Your local county extension office or area universities may be able to direct you to a lab where you can send a soil sample to get an accurate test. Or check out this site to find a list of labs that perform soil tests: North American Proficiency Testing Program (NAPT)

You Might Also Like:
How to Test Your Soil's pH
Six Organic Products to Use in Your Garden
Find the Right Bigleaf Hydrangea for Your Garden
How to Care for Bigleaf Hydrangeas

How to change the color of your bigleaf hydrangea

After you've found out what your soil pH is, here are ways to make your bigleaf hydrangea blooms turn pink or blue.

For a bigleaf hydrangea to bloom pink, a pH of 6.0 to 6.2 is ideal. Try one of these methods:

• Use a commercial product to change the color, such as Color Me Pink™, according to directions on the package.
  
• In fall or early spring, spread dolomitic limestone around the plant at 1 cup per 10 square feet and water in.
  
• Add 1 TBSP hydrated lime to a gallon of water and water once a month starting in early spring.
  
• Fertilize with high nitrogen and high phosphorus fertilizer, such as a 25-10-10, to inhibit aluminum uptake. The extra nitrogen will help combat iron chlorosis that may happen if your pH raises above 6.4.
  

For a bigleaf hydrangea to bloom blue, pH of 5.2 to 5.5 is best. Try one of these methods:

• Use a commercial product to change the color, such as Color Me Blue™, according to directions on the package.
  
• Add 1 TBSP aluminum sulfate to a gallon of water and water the plant once a month starting in early spring. Be sure hydrangeas are hydrated before you treat because an excess of aluminum absorbed quickly can burn plants.
  
• Mix organic matter such as compost, chopped oak leaves, peat moss and coffee grounds into the soil to help lower pH. This is slow acting, but a good thing to do annually to maintain a lower pH around your hydrangea.
  
• Fertilize with high potassium, low phosphate fertilizer, such as 25-5-30. Potassium will help increase aluminum uptake. Using ammonium sulfate as a nitrogen source in the fertilizer will also help to keep pH low.
  

But what if my hydrangea is purple?

A neutral pH between acidic and alkaline will result in a color somewhere in the middle. Closer to alkaline, the flowers may tend toward pink in color, giving you lavender. More acidic and the color will look more purple with bluer tones. And, they may change slightly as they age from a blue-purple to a lavender pink.

Sometimes a hydrangea in neutral soil will have a mix of all the colors as though it can’t decide which color to be. If you can’t decide either, and don’t want to mess with your soil’s pH, try L. A. Dreamin’^®, a hydrangea cultivar that will produce varying shades of pink, lavender, and blue blooms all at once without soil amendments. It grows up to 5 feet tall and wide in USDA zones 5 to 10.

You Might Also Like:
Four-Season Hydrangea Border
Pink Hydrangea Garden
Easy Flowers to Grow
Colorful Backyard Border

Grow hydrangeas in a container to change bloom color easier

Raising or lowering pH takes time for additives to affect soil and is not usually permanent, so you must maintain the desired pH every year for the blooms to stay the color you want. That’s why growing in a container is an easy solution. Most potting mixes are soilless and don’t have the naturally occurring aluminum that soil does, so you can change the pH to be just what your plant needs.

Hydrangea color change tips:

• More intensely colored hydrangeas will be more intense after a color change. In other words, if your hydrangea was a deep pink, it will be a darker blue.
  
• Pastel colors will change to a comparably pale color and you can’t make it darker. Do not add more amendments to get a darker color — it will not help and may cause problems in your soil. Use amendments according to package directions.
  
• White bigleaf hydrangeas will never turn colors no matter what the soil type, though some blush pink or even red as the flowers age.
  
• Red hydrangeas are bred to be a deep, dark shade of almost-red pink (not really a true red), so grow them in alkaline soil to get the best color.
  
• Changing soil pH is a slow process and must be maintained throughout the growing season to ensure your hydrangea stays the color you want.
  

How to water succulents right

People think succulents are easy to grow — just put them in the sun and rarely water them, right? Actually, many succulents are native to cool, arid locations, so too much sun and heat can cause them to dry out too fast.

Succulents do need to be watered, just not as often as tropical houseplants. Every one to two weeks should be right, depending on the size of the pot, light and temperature. Take a look here for some common symptoms your succulents might show if they are suffering from watering problems.

You Might Also Like:
Best Foliage Plants for Containers
Cactus and Succulent Watering Tip
Easy Upcycled Garden Planter Ideas

Brown or burned leaves

Too much sun can cause scorching and browning of leaves, whether the plant is watered correctly or not. The ‘Letizia’ sedeveria above was burned by water standing on the foliage in hot sun. Browning on the tips indicates sunburn in dry conditions when the plant needs more water. Some leaves may fall off if damaged too much.

What to do if my succulent has brown or burned leaves

Move the plant out of hot, direct sun. Scorched leaves will not improve in appearance, so trim them off. Make sure the plant is not too wet or too dry.

Shriveled leaves

Underwatered succulents like the elephant bush above will have shriveled foliage that is often dull or light in color. If left too long, some leaves will drop off, especially if touched.

What to do if my succulent has shriveled leaves

Give an underwatered succulent a good thorough drink until water runs out the drainage hole. If the soil is pulling away from the side of the pot, soak the whole container in a pan of water for a half hour to rehydrate the root ball, then dump out any excess water.

Losing leaves

Many succulents will lose lower leaves as they age and grow. But when it loses a significant number of leaves all at once, like the echeveria above, it has been too dry and is trying to conserve moisture.

What to do if my succulent is losing leaves

Give it a soak and check it more frequently.

You Might Also Like:
How to Water Houseplants
A Convenient Container Garden
Five Drought-tolerant Lawn Replacements

Soft, mushy stems

An overwatered succulent, like the aloe vera above, will have yellow, soft, or even squishy leaves. The stem may be blackened at the soil line where it has rotted off.

What to do if my succulent has soft, mushy leaves

If it is just yellowing and soft, dry it out and it may recover. A succulent with a rotted stem may be a lost cause, though you might be able to start a cutting.

Products to Help You Grow Succulents:
Cactus and Succulent Soil Mix
Succulent Plant Food
Succulent Tool Kit
Planting Node Ceramic Containers

Wouldn’t it be nice if our houseplants could tell us what is wrong? It’s easy to miss the signals a plant gives that let you know it is not happy, and sometimes those signals are ambiguous. When most gardeners see a wilting plant, they assume it needs more water. It might. But it also might be too wet. To prevent these things from happening, rather than watering on a rigid schedule, learn to read the situation before you water your houseplant.

What factors influence when you water houseplants?

In low light, plants need less water since they are growing less vigorously. And temperature can also affect houseplants in various ways. If the heat is on and the air is dry, your plant may need more water since it will transpire and lose moisture through its stomata, or pores. But once air-conditioning season is here, cut back on the water as cool, humid air will reduce the loss of moisture through the cells of the leaves.

How do I know if my houseplant needs water?

Here are three ways to tell if it’s time to water your houseplants:

1. Does it feel dry?

Check the soil surface before watering by sticking your finger into the potting mix — for most plants it should feel dry between the first and second knuckle, or the top inch of soil, and the potting soil will look light in color.

2. Does it feel heavy?

Lift the pot. The drier the plant, the lighter the soil. You’ll get a feel for how heavy a particular plant should be. Skip watering if it seems weighty and check again in a few days.

3. Does it look wet?

Check the drainage tray to make sure the plant isn’t standing in water more than a half hour after you water. I like to set a houseplant potted in a nursery container inside a decorative one with no drainage. This makes it easy to see if there’s any excess water and dump it.

You Might Also Like:
A Succulent and Cactus Watering Tip
How to Build a Terrarium
DIY Kokedama
How to Save Your Container Plants Over Winter
How to Repot an Orchid

Identifying underwatered and overwatered houseplants

Next, let me show you some common symptoms of under- and overwatering houseplants and how to fix them.

Signs of an underwatered houseplant

1. Drooping leaves

When a plant is too dry, its foliage becomes limp and will droop, starting with the leaves, then the whole stem. Some plants, like this peace lily (Spathiphyllum hybrid), will completely collapse when too dry.

2. Yellow or dried leaves

An underwatered plant wilts first, then some leaves turn yellow after it is rehydrated. They will often turn brown and dry or fall off soon after. Weeping figs (Ficus benjamina) are notorious for dropping yellow leaves if they dry out (but drop green leaves if the roots are too wet).

3. Dull or limp leaves

A plant in need of water often loses its glossy shine, turning dull or light in color and feel limp or wrinkly.

4. Brown leaf tips

Leaf tips may dry too much and turn brown when the plant is dehydrated. It is more prominent when a plant goes through multiple wilty-dry-then-moist cycles, especially in low-humidity conditions.

Will a houseplant recover from underwatering?

If a plant is wilting because it is too dry, it will rehydrate with a thorough watering, regaining its green color, shine and firm texture. If the soil is pulling away from the side of the pot, soak it for half an hour in a pan of water to completely saturate the root ball. If wilting occurs frequently, you may need to repot into the next-size-bigger container.

A dehydrated plant will recover, with some yellowing or loss of leaves. Yellowed leaves will not turn green again, so trim them off along with any dead leaves to tidy the plant up. Brown leaf tips can be carefully trimmed with scissors where the green color meets the brown to make it less unsightly.

Watering Products We Like:
3-in-1 Light/Moisture/pH Meter
2-Gal. Watering Can
Indoor watering can

Signs of an overwatered houseplant

1. Brown leaf tips

Too much water means an excess of nutrients is in suspension at the roots, often causing the plant to absorb these nutrients whether it needs them or not. This excess can cause leaf tips and edges to burn. Dragon trees (Dracaena marginata) are especially prone to tip burn.

2. Shriveled stems

If roots are rotting, transport of water and nutrients is halted in the plant’s vascular system, and these “veins” may collapse, leaving shriveled stems.

3. Stem elongation

A plant without enough light can be easily overwatered since the plant uses less water with less vigorous growth. It will grow long and spindly, with more space between smaller-than-normal leaves and weak, floppy stems. This ZZ plant’s (Zamioculcas zamiifolia) stems would have dark green leaves spaced closer together on thick, upright stems if it had not been overwatered.

4. Yellowed leaves

Older leaves will turn yellow first when a plant is overwatered. They may be accompanied by blistered lesions, or oedema, where cells burst from having absorbed too much water. Yellowed leaves can also be caused by damaged roots that can’t absorb nutrients, leading to a deficiency. You'll see this often on rubber plant (Ficus elastica), where its thick lower leaves turn yellow and fall off quickly when overwatered.

5. Root rot

If a plant stands in excess water, it may have root rot. Confirm this by pulling the plant out of its pot and inspecting the roots — they’ll be brown or mushy. A plant with roots that are rotting away may have stems at the soil line that are mushy and black as well, and the plant may lean. Umbrella plants (Schefflera spp. and hybrids) respond to overwatering this way — they will have blackened stems when they have root rot, as well as limp new growth that droops at the leaf nodes.

Houseplant Products We Like:
Leaf Shine
Micro-Tip Pruners
Indoor plant care bundle

Will a houseplant recover from overwatering?

Overwatering is harder to cure than underwatering. Start by dumping excess water and drying the plant out. If the roots are rotted, it may be too late to save. But if some are still healthy, avoid watering until the soil is very dry. Poke holes into the soil with a pencil every few inches to help get air into the soil to the bottom of the root ball and try to dry it out. You may need to trim off the mushy roots and wash off water-logged soil before repotting into fresh potting soil.

Cut off yellowed or brown leaves and collapsed stems. Move it into more light if you can. After the plant begins recovering and sprouting new growth, cut back some of the leggier stems.

It’s such a simple piece of garden equipment: A tube to disperse water. But nothing causes more aggravation! A garden hose that kinks, leaks, is stiff and won’t unwind or is heavy to drag around can be really frustrating. As a long time gardener and professional horticulturist, I've used hundreds of hoses over the years made from a wide variety of materials - vinyl, rubber, plastics and even metal - they all have pros and cons. So take a look at all the different types of garden hoses below and check out my secrets to finding one you’ll be happy with and how to care for a garden hose so it lasts for years.

You May Also Like:
How to Water Perennial Plants
Hanging Basket Watering Tips
How to Choose the Right Garden Hoe

What to look for in a garden hose

High quality fittings

You can get inexpensive hoses with aluminum, stamped metal, or plastic couplings, but brass is the most durable. Get the kind of coupling with an octagonal shape so you can use a pliers to loosen the connection if you need to.

Garden hose tips

• If you leave an aluminum coupling connected to a brass faucet too long, a chemical reaction called “galvanic corrosion” may fuse the two metals together and you’ll never get that hose off the faucet. Avoid the problem by disconnecting the hose after each use or using a plastic coupling between the two metals.
• And take good care of your hose ends — don’t drop them on concrete and dent the threads or leave them on the driveway where they might get run over!

Burst pressure rating

Check the packaging for a burst pressure rating above 350 PSI. The higher it is the less likely the hose will spring a leak if someone drives over it while it's full.

Garden hose tip

In regions where freezing is of concern, look for cold weather ratings, too, so you know whether that hose can survive water freezing inside.

Hose helpers

• Use quick connectors to change water wands and sprinklers and attach the hose to the faucet. They save time and wear and tear on the threaded couplings.
  
• Look for garden hoses with collars at each end to reinforce these zones that are susceptible to tugging and kinking.
  
• Use rubber washers in the couplings. They last longer than plastic. Always check to see that the washer is not misshapen or cracked — it’s often the reason there’s a leak or a loose connection.
  
• A hose reel is a great way to store your hose in a way that avoids kinking. Or go for something more decorative like the hose hider in the photo below.

How to care for your garden hose

Kink control

To avoid a kink in your garden hose don’t yank on the end to straighten it out. Instead, walk back to the kink and unfold it so you don’t set the crease or crack the hose. For the same reason, don’t fold or kink the hose to stop the flow of water — turn the water off at the source or with a shut-off valve. Coil up the hose after each use to keep it neat. A larger coil (2 to 3 feet in diameter) leaves the hose more relaxed and less likely to kink when uncoiling.

Proper storage

To put your garden hose away for the season, run water out of it after shutting off the faucet. This way there’s no water inside that could expand and burst in cold winter temperatures. Hang your garden hose on a wide, rounded hanger or reel to prevent kinks. Never use just a nail or single thin hook as these will cause the hose to crease. If you're tired of having to arm wrestle the hose into the garage this handy device is an all-in-one wrangler and storage unit.

Comparing different types of garden hoses

In my quest for the perfect hose, I’ve tried quite a few different materials. Here's what I've discovered.

Vinyl hoses

Usually one of the least-expensive hoses, vinyl is often reinforced with cording or nylon mesh in multiple plies to make it strong and durable, so it is good for attaching to sprinklers where you might leave the water turned on all day with a timer. They tend to be stiff and hard to coil, and often kink and rekink in the same spot. I have cursed this kind of hose far more than any other, but it’s a good hose to use in situations where I can leave it strung out in one place — such as to reach a distant bed.

Polyurethane hoses

A polyurethane hose is lightweight to use and doesn’t kink as much but is a bit stiff, so it can be fussy to coil and not as bendable when pulling through the garden. My polyurethane hose has a smaller diameter, so I get less water output — not great on a sprinkler, but so light to haul around that it’s one of my favorites.

Precoiled polyurethane hoses

Precoiled polyurethane hoses are stretchy and nice to use for quick waterings on a regular basis — on the patio, in a greenhouse or sunroom, by the veggie garden. Don’t store one in a heap or the coils will tangle together. Instead drape it carefully from a hose hanger or try sliding the coils down a length of PVC or a broom handle like you see in the photo to keep a precoiled hose neatly stored.

Rubber hoses

Though heavy, a construction-grade rubber hose has a long lifespan and can take a beating while being pliable and easy to coil. Kinks can be shaken out and don’t usually leave a crease that reoccurs. My favorite black rubber hose will leave scuff marks on concrete, hands and clothes if it rubs too hard, but it washes off.

You Might Also Like:
How to Divide 45+ Perennials
Must-Have Pruning Tools for Gardeners
Drought-Tolerant Perennials

Polymer hoses

Usually drinking water safe, this material is lightweight, soft and flexible, gently curling around plants, pots and corners and coiling easily for storage. My polymer hose kinks like crazy, but the creases don’t set and will unkink with a quick twirl of the end like a jump rope. It coils so easily and is so light that all is forgiven if I unroll it first before using.

Metal hose

I love this metal hose! It’s pricier, but tough, really lightweight, doesn’t kink (though I have managed to twist it up occasionally), I can drag it around and it easily uncoils. If the hose heats up in the sun, it cools quicker than other materials so I don’t waste water running until the water isn’t hot. It will catch on corners or pavement cracks but you can snap it like a whip to dislodge it. Mine has a smaller water output due to the narrower inside hose diameter, but it can power a sprinkler.

Expandable Garden Hose

There are many versions of an expandable hose — usually a rubber tube encased by a durable, stretchy fabric. I admit it seems gimmicky, but I love how light and easy to store mine is — all 100 ft. contracts and fits in a 5-gal. bucket. If you hate coiling your hose when your done using it, you'll love an expandable hose — it basically puts itself away!

Expandable hose tip

You may have heard negative comments about expandable garden hoses bursting under pressure. I’ve used mine for several seasons and think the key is to get the more expensive version with brass couplings and use it carefully: Turn the water on slowly so there isn’t a burst of water pressure when filling, don’t use shut off valves where water pressure builds in the hose (I let mine run the whole time I use it), drain all water out when finished, don’t drive over them, and store out of heat, sun and freezing temperatures.

Soaker hoses

The great thing about soakers is that they use a lot less water — up to 70 percent less — than wands or sprinklers. And none of the water is wasted since it’s directed right into the soil near the roots where it’s needed. Once I set a soaker hose in the garden, I leave it in place all season. Turn the faucet on just enough so the entire hose is weeping, but not spraying.

Soaker hose tip

It can take a little practice to know how long to let the hose run. Experiment in your garden by running it for an hour with the faucet on a quarter turn. The next day see if the soil is still moist at least 2 inches down. If the soil’s dry, water again and this time let the soaker run longer or turn the faucet up a bit.