Eastern pasque flower (Pulsatilla patens)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Blue-violet to nearly white in early spring
Light: Full sun
Soil: Gritty, alkaline, well-drained
Pests: None serious
Size: 6 to 12 in. tall and wide
Cold Hardiness: USDA zones 3 to 7

Welcome spring with Eastern pasque flower

At the first sign of warm weather, even when there’s still a little snow on the ground, Eastern pasque flower shows its pretty face. The 2- to 4-inch-wide blooms open in shades of blue-violet to nearly white on short stems that stretch as the flowers age. For many bees the pollen from this native perennial is the first food they find after a long winter.

Depending on the temperature, each blossom only lasts a few days. But an established clump usually has enough buds to keep the show going for several weeks. Flowers open on sunny days and close at night or when it’s cloudy. And don’t bother picking them for bouquets — they wilt as soon as you cut them.

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Enjoy unique seedheads

If you look closely at pasque flower plants, you’ll notice the fine coating of fuzz on the leaves and stems. In exposed locations, it helps protect them from cold, harsh spring winds. Wispy seedheads you see in the photo above will break into individual seeds. Some will sprout to grow new plants just like the parent.

Ideal growing conditions for Eastern pasque flower

Eastern pasque flower needs alkaline conditions, so test your soil before you plant. Then use agricultural lime around the plant to adjust the pH. If the soil stays wet, the crown will rot. That’s why this perennial’s perfect in rock gardens or tucked into stones as I’ve done in the garden planting plan below. Soil that contains lots of grit or fine gravel is ideal.

Get flowers off to a good start

When you’re shopping for Eastern pasque flower you may find it under its old botanical name Anemone patens. And whether by mail or at the garden center, odds are you’ll find only small plants or packets of seeds. That’s because a deep taproot makes it tough to transplant.

Set out plants in spring or fall, but sow seeds from summer to early fall. They need a cold period before they grow next spring. Germination is often poor, so be sure to sow more than you need. One last thing you need to know: By summer, this spring bloomer goes dormant and the foliage will disappear. Be sure to mark the spot so you don’t dig it out, and it’ll be back next year.

Spring garden layout with Eastern pasque flower

Dry-stacked stone walls are charming on their own. But fill some of the spaces with gritty soil, tuck in a few plants and when the perennials bloom it’ll be even more striking. After these early perennials finish, all but the Eastern pasque flower will have foliage that looks great nestled between the stones. See the plant list below that corresponds with the lettered illustration shown above.

Plant list

A)Eastern pasque flower (Pulsatilla patens)
Perennial; blue-violet to nearly white in early spring; full sun; 6 to 12 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7

B)Dwarf iris (Iris ‘Photon’)
Perennial rhizome; bright yellow flowers with a small stroke of orange on the falls in spring; full sun; 8 to 12 in. tall, 6 to 10 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

C)Basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis)
Perennial; bright golden yellow flowers in spring; full sun; 6 to 12 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

D)Moss phlox (Phlox subulata ‘Candy Stripe’)
Perennial; pink-striped white spring flowers; full sun; 4 to 6 in. tall, 16 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

E)Hen and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum)
Perennial; gray-green leaf rosettes; full sun; 1 to 3 in. tall, 1 to 5 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

See More Garden Plan Layouts:
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Epimedium

Epimedium spp. and hybrids

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Pink, white, yellow, red, burgundy, orange or lavender starburst-shaped blooms in early spring
Light: Part to full shade
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Pests: None serious; deer-resistant
Size: 6 to 24 in. tall, 6 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy USDA zones 4 to 9

Epimediums kick off spring!

When other perennials haven’t shown the slightest intention of emerging or are just peeking through the soil in spring, epimedium is up and at ’em. Its dainty starburst blooms create a cloud of color that draws you out to the garden even on chilly days. Once the flowers are done, there’s often a second flush of colorful spring leaves as plants begin to form a tidy mound of foliage for summer. Many varieties end the season with a brilliant fall show, and some are evergreen in mild winter areas. Easy to grow, deer resistant and drought tolerant once established, this underappreciated shade perennial has so much to offer!

Epimedium thrives in shady gardens

More than 50 species of epimedium (also called barrenwort) thrive in the woodlands and shaded rocky areas of Asia, Europe and North Africa. Most gardeners grow hybrids or the easy-to-find species available at nurseries — there are lots to choose from. Karen Perkins, retired owner of Garden Vision Epimediums, has cultivated this shade-loving perennial for decades. She says, “I love epimediums for their unique and delicate beauty, toughness and versatility. They’re easy to grow, so they work not only for beginning gardeners but also for collectors of the weird and wonderful.” Though no longer selling plants, Karen maintains her website to share all the information on different varieties and growing tips that she’s compiled over the years.

Enjoy dainty flowers with unique spurs

Epimedium is most known for its spidery blooms with long nectar- filled spurs like those of ‘Pierre’s Purple’ at left. But there are also flowers with short spurs and large sepals, such as ‘Sulphureum’, and a few, such as bell-shaped ‘Lemon Zest’, with almost no spurs at all.

There are lots of flower colors and even bicolor blooms. ‘Flame Thrower’ combines raspberry pink and pale yellow, while ‘Purple Prince’ is deep purple with white spur tips. ‘Arctic Wings’ is solid white.

Epimedium has interesting foliage in different seasons

In spring, epimedium has small leaflets that accompany the flowers, while larger, mature leaves begin to fill in from the crown. By summer, spring coloration fades and plants form a mound of pest- and disease-resistant foliage that doesn’t require pruning to maintain a neat appearance throughout the growing season. Deciduous ‘Pierre’s Purple’ (above) loses its foliage after the first hard frost, but semi-evergreen types stay colorful into early winter, and evergreen ones keep going into spring.

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Meet the epimedium family

Though not as widely known as shade classics such as hosta and impatiens, epimedium deserves more attention. It’s tougher than those charming little blooms might suggest and has a range of interesting flower and foliage colors, sizes and shapes. Although with new varieties coming to the market every year, there’s likely to be a wider selection than ever at your local garden center, you’ll still find even more options through mail-order nurseries. The three sources below have especially broad offerings.

Older varieties and species tend to have small blooms that sit below the leaves, where they’re harder to see. In recent years plant breeders have been working to develop eye-catching colors and larger, longer-lasting blooms that sit high above the foliage. Check out the lineup below to see a selection of epimediums that will look great in your shade garden!

‘Pink Champagne’ (Epimedium hybrid)

Blooms: Soft pink-spurred flower with a raspberry pink cup-shaped center in mid- to late spring
Foliage: Elongated evergreen leaves are speckled purple in spring; clumping
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

‘Domino’ (Epimedium hybrid)

Blooms: Ivory-spurred flower with a maroon center cup in spring
Foliage: Elongated, spiny evergreen leaves have purple splashes in spring; clumping
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

‘Sandy Claws’ (Epimedium wushanense)

Blooms: Cream-spurred flower with a yellow cup-shaped center in early spring
Foliage: Elongated, spiny evergreen leaves are deep maroon in spring; spreading
Size: 12 to 16 in. tall, spreading
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

‘Cranberry Dancer’ (Epimedium hybrid)

Blooms: Cranberry red and yellow-spurred flower with a red center in mid- to late spring
Foliage: Serrated evergreen leaves have a bronzy overlay in spring; clumping
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

‘Orange Queen’ (Epimedium x warleyense)

(Also sold as ‘Orangekönigin’)

Blooms: Unusual orange flowers in early spring
Foliage: Heart-shaped evergreen leaves blush red in spring; spreading
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, spreading
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

‘Sulphureum’ (Epimedium x versicolor)

Blooms: Pale yellow flower center with short sepals and spurs in early spring
Foliage: Heart-shaped semi-evergreen foliage is tinted red in spring and fall; spreading
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, spreading
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

‘Dark Beauty’ (Epimedium grandiflorum)

Blooms: White long-spurred flower with rose sepals and center in early spring
Foliage: Heart-shaped deep purple deciduous leaves in spring; clumping
Size: 10 to 12 in. tall, 10 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

‘Lilafee’ (Epimedium grandiflorum)

Blooms: Purple-spurred flower with white tips and a purple center in mid- to late spring
Foliage: Heart-shaped deciduous leaves are dusky purple in spring; clumping
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall, 9 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

Epimedium Plant Sources

• Dancing Oaks, dancingoaks.com, 503-838-6058
• Fieldstone Gardens, fieldstonegardens.com
• Sebright Gardens, sebrightgardens.com, 503-463-9615

Whether you have big gaps to fill or just want to test-drive some compact shrubs, this year’s new introductions deliver. Expect plenty of color and even some fragrance! And if you love hydrangeas, be sure to check out the stunning new panicle and bigleaf varieties that are sure to turn heads in your garden beds and borders.

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Autumn Kiss^® azalea (Rhododendron hybrid)

Spring and fall gardens will be outstanding with the 3-inch semidouble bicolor blooms of Autumn Kiss, which is part of the Encore^® reblooming azalea series. There’s a big show of flowers in spring, and more blooms arrive in late summer to fall.

Type: Shrub
Best features: Semidouble bicolor blooms in spring and fall
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 6 to 10 
Introducer:Encore Azalea
Source: Local garden centers

Bellini^® Cherry crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica)

For gardeners without a lot of room, this new crape myrtle is a great choice, providing loads of red blooms in midsummer to fall. The Bellini series is cold hardy to zone 5. It may die to the ground in harsh winters, but stems will regrow and flower in spring.

Type: Shrub
Best features: Lots of long-lasting red blooms on a compact plant
Light: Part to full shade
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 5 to 10
Introducer:Star^® Roses and Plants
Source: Local garden centers

Spring Sizzle^® panicle hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata)

Earlier to bloom than most panicle hydrangeas, Spring Sizzle has crisp white flowers that mature to deep red even in mild winter areas where they don’t typically get that late-season flush of color. Sturdy red stems keep the flowers up off the ground where you can enjoy them. Dried blooms from Spring Sizzle are especially great for using in dried arrangements or decor, as they keep their gorgeous red hue.

Type: Shrub
Best features: White flowers that mature to deep red in late summer 
Light: Part to full shade
Size: 4 to 6 ft. tall, 4 to 5 ft. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 8
Introducer:First Editions^® Shrubs & Trees
Source: Local garden centers

Centennial Ruby^™ bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)

The ruby red mophead blooms of this new bigleaf hydrangea are real showstoppers! They start in late spring and keep going until early fall. The color deepens as the bloom ages so you have different shades of red on one plant.

Type: Shrub
Best features: Ruby red flowers on a bigleaf hydrangea
Light: Part shade
Size: 3 ft. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 9
Introducer:Monrovia^®
Source: Local garden centers

Spice Cowboy^™ Koreanspice viburnum (Viburnum carlesii)

Spice Cowboy takes the fragrant white blooms of Koreanspice viburnum up a notch with 4-inch snowball-like blooms. In fall the foliage turns red, yellow and orange so you get a multiseason show with this stunning shrub.

Type: Shrub
Best features: Large fragrant flowers and beautiful fall foliage
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 6 to 10 ft. tall, 4 to 5 ft. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 8
Introducer:Proven Winners^®
Source:Sooner Plant Farm, 918-453-0771

After checking out the coolest new plants coming in 2026, our editors rounded up their top picks — many we got to grow ourselves with great results. This year’s lineup is loaded with show-stopping annuals and tender perennials that shine in planters, borders, and anywhere you need a pop of color. Tender perennials often get treated like annuals, but if you live where they’re hardy, you get to enjoy them more than one season.

Keep scrolling to meet this standout group of introductions, starting with part-shade favorites including a unique group of pretty new petunias and moving into stunning full-sun options.

Besties^™ Dynamic Bicolor cape daisy (Osteospermum ecklonis)

These cool-season flowers have a beautiful blend of orange, purple and yellow on each bloom. Though the flowering slows a little in summer’s heat, these plants keep going strong and take off again in fall.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of heat-resistant flowers 
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, 12 to 14 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 9 to 11
Introducer:Danziger
Source: Local garden centers

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‘Pink Ribbons’ coleus (Coleus scutellarioides)

Part of the Terrascape series, ‘Pink Ribbons’ thrives even in full sun, though the color is a bit brighter in part shade. Flowers don’t show up until late in the season, so you probably won’t need to deadhead.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Colorful sun-tolerant foliage with late blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 18 to 26 in. tall, 18 to 20 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer:Kientzler North America
Source: Local garden centers

Venti^™ PinkBurst dahlia (Dahlia pinnata)

You won’t run short of these anemone-shaped flowers in the garden or in your vase. Venti PinkBurst has loads of blooms from late spring to frost. Deadheading keeps plants tidy and encourages more flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Lots of anemone-style blooms
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 16 to 18 in. tall, 14 to 16 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 8 to 10
Introducer:Selecta One^®
Source: Local garden centers

Learn more about Venti PinkBurst!

Join Senior Editor Sherri for an exclusive tour of Ball Horticulture’s test gardens as she checks out one of their exciting new 2026 introductions — the Venti Pinkburst dahlia from Selecta One! This standout variety delivered nonstop blooms from late spring to first frost in our test garden, featuring fun, frilly flowers with a unique anemone-style center.

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Big EEZE Pink Panther geranium (Pelargonium hybrid)

For big flowers and easy-to-grow plants, this new color in the Big EEZE annual geranium series is a sure bet. Those bright pink blooms keep going even when summer is hot and humid. Deadheading helps tidy up plants and make room for new flowers.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Heat- and humidity-tolerant plants with eye-catching pink flowers
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Dümmen Orange^®
Source: Local garden centers

Amazing New Petunia Introductions for 2026

Petunias are a mainstay of container gardens. Here are a few new varieties that you won’t want to miss!

Amazonas^™ Plum Cockatoo (Petunia hybrid)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Ruffled green petals with a deep purple center
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 14 in. tall, 14 to 18 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Danziger
Source: Local garden centers

Supertunia Mini Vista^® Pink Cloud (Petunia hybrid)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Masses of small, 1¼-in. vibrant pink blooms with ruffled petals and super heat tolerance
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 6 to 12 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer: Proven Winners^®
Source: Local garden centers

Main Stage^™ Burgundy Sky (Petunia hybrid)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Large burgundy blooms with a scattering of yellow speckles (hot temperatures result in more solid-colored flowers)
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 16 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11
Introducer:Selecta One
Source: Local garden centers

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Full Sun Annuals & Tender Perennials

Linen zinnia (Zinnia elegans)

The warm flaxen tones of this new zinnia have just a hint of pale pink to peach on 4- to 5-inch blooms. This color is easy to work into the garden or in a summer bouquet. As the blooms age, the pink and peach hues intensify. Seeds are easy to start indoors or direct-sow outdoors in spring when all danger of frost has passed.

Type: Annual
Best features: A fascinating new flower color for zinnias; deer-resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 30 to 40 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones
Introducer & Source:Johnny’s Selected Seeds, 877-564-6697

‘Knight’s Armour’ dahlia (Dahlia hybrid)

Ready for some drama in your late-summer borders? Give 11-inch ‘Knight’s Armour’ a look. These double white “dinnerplate” blooms streaked with red-purple are real head-turners. Every bloom has a different pattern — some may even be solid white.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Dramatic flowers with lots of variety
Light: Full sun
Size: 48 to 60 in. tall, 15 to 18 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 8 to 12
Introducer & Source:Swan Island Dahlias, 800-410-6540

PeekABoo Burgundy verbena (Verbena hybrid)

We loved this new color in the PeekABoo series! Large, 3-inch-deep burgundy blooms with a white center keep containers colorful. There are five other colors in the series to try: Red, Pink, Lilac, Lavender and Indigo.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Large 3-in. burgundy blooms; deer-resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 12 to 15 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 7 to 10
Introducer:Westoff
Source: Local garden centers

‘Tora Red’ painted tongue (Salpiglossis sinuata)

Upright strong-growing plants produce a bouquet of trumpet-shaped blooms etched with burgundy swoops and blushed red with yellow throats. Painted tongue plants perform best when night temperatures are around 60 degrees F and in moist, well-drained soil.

Type: Annual
Best features: Upright, vigorous plants with red-tinted patterned blooms
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 12 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones
Introducer & Source:Select Seeds, 800-684-0395

Firedup^™ Coral dipladenia (Dipladenia hybrid)

Part of the Sun Parasol^® series, Firedup Coral has a pinwheel flower shape instead of overlapping petals like other dipladenias. Its upright habit fits easily in containers, and the coral-colored flowers with yellow centers provide reliable interest from late spring until frost.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Best features: Pinwheel-shaped coral flowers all season
Light: Full sun
Size: 20 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 16 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 10 to 11 
Introducer:Suntory Flowers
Source:Garden Crossings, 616-875-6355

We’ve researched the new plant offerings for 2026 and have found this year’s top picks for new sun perennials are a flowery bunch in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes. Even better, many of them are deer resistant! You’ll notice that the trend in compact varieties hasn’t slowed down, so whether you have a small garden or are running out of room in a big border, these smaller versions perennials will expand your plant palette. Let’s take a look at some fascinating new plant introductions for 2026.

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‘Sundial’ false sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides)

The centers of these golden-yellow blooms glow red when they first emerge, then mature to solid yellow, so each plant has a mix of colorful flowers in mid- to late summer. This color combination really pops against the burgundy foliage of the smokebush (Cotinus coggygria) above.

This drought-tolerant native perennial has an upright habit with rich olive green foliage that takes on a deep purple tone when it first emerges. ‘Sundial’ has excellent resistance to powdery mildew.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Vibrant golden yellow flowers with red centers; deer resistant
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 48 to 54 in. tall, 40 to 46 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9
Introducer:Walters Gardens, Inc.
Source:Bluestone Perennials, 800-852-5243 

Skyward^™ Light Pink speedwell (Veronica hybrid)

More compact than other veronica varieties, Skyward Light Pink has clusters of spikes starting in late spring, and they keep going through summer, enticing lots of pollinators.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Compact plants covered in lilac blooms; deer resistant  
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 14 to 18 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 9
Introducer:Darwin Perennials^®
Source: Local garden centers

Learn more about Skyward speedwell

Take a closer look at Darwin Perennials new introduction, Skyward Speedwell (Veronica hybrid), on our tour at their test gardens last summer. With its branching spiky blooms, this variety is easy to create long-lasting waves of color for your border or container plantings.

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‘Passion Hearts’ fernleaf bleeding heart (Dicentra hybrid)

This low-growing perennial is tougher than it looks, putting on quite a show near the front of the border. Its ferny blue foliage is topped off with an abundance of heart-shaped bicolor pink blooms in spring, but it doesn’t stop there. Flowers keep coming through summer, even in the heat.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Bicolor blooms from spring to fall; deer resistant
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 26 to 28 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9
Introducer:Walters Gardens, Inc.
Source:Sooner Plant Farm, 918-453-0771

Win a Box of New Plants From Proven Winners This Spring!

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Orange Sparkler dianthus (Dianthus hybrid)

Part of the Scent First^® series, this fragrant dianthus has unusual orange blooms with hot pink flecks in spring and makes a great cut flower. It reblooms off and on through summer, with silver-blue foliage to keep the garden interesting when the flowers take a break.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Fragrant blooms in a unique color for dianthus; deer resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 10 to 12 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 5 to 9
Introducer:PlantHaven International, Inc.
Source: Local garden centers

‘Prairie Princess’ ironweed (Vernonia hybrid)

With its smaller size and sturdy stems, this new ironweed doesn’t splay open like the species. Its upright stems are covered in late-summer to early-fall blooms, making it a late-season pollinator favorite.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Small rosy purple aster-like flowers on compact plants; deer resistant; North American Native
Light: Full sun
Size: 26 to 30 in. tall, 30 to 36 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 9
Introducer:Proven Winners^®
Source:Garden Crossings, 616-875-6355

‘Violets Are Blue’ delphinium (Delphinium elatum)

The large blue-violet blooms with a white “bee” in the center will turn heads. The biggest flush of flowers is in early summer, but plants rebloom into early fall. Though the stems are sturdy, staking is still a good idea in windy spots.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Dramatic blue-violet blooms on tough plants; deer resistant
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 30 to 36 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 7
Introducer:Proven Winners^®
Source:Sooner Plant Farm, 918-453-0771

‘JoJo’ Joe-Pye weed (Eutrochium fistulosum)

At 4 feet tall and wide, this new compact Joe-Pye weed is easy to work into just about any garden. The fluffy flowers, made up of tiny individual double blooms, are sterile, so there’s no worry about reseeding.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Compact plants with double blooms that won’t reseed; deer-resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 8
Introducer:Plants Nouveau
Source:Sooner Plant Farm, 918-453-0771

‘Opal’ threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata)

The sweet little blooms on this threadleaf coreopsis put on a show that changes with the seasons. Flowers start in late spring and keep going until frost, blushing deep pink in cooler weather and having more white in warm temps. The powdery mildew–resistant foliage stayed fresh and green all season in our test garden.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Small, season-changing, white flowers with blushes of pink in cool weather; deer resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 12 to 14 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 5 to 10
Introducer:Terra Nova^® Nurseries, Inc. 
Source: Local garden centers

‘Golden Needles’ prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepis)

When you want a spotlight of foliage in the border, this new prairie dropseed does the job. It starts out golden yellow in spring and matures to chartreuse by midsummer. Airy flower stems reach 3 feet tall. You’ll get the best foliage color in full sun.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Showy golden yellow foliage that matures to chartreuse; deer resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 in. tall, 36 in. in bloom, 18 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9
Introducer:Intrinsic Perennial Gardens, Inc.
Source: Local garden centers

Red Angelina™ sedum (Sedum hybrid)

Check out this cool new sedum that looks and grows like ‘Angelina’ but has red foliage! The deepest red shows up in spring and fall when temperatures are cooler. Plants develop a bit of green during the hottest part of summer. Yellow flowers open in late spring. Use it as an eye-catching accent near the front of the border to fill in gaps between other taller perennials.

Type: Perennial
Best features: A vigorous ground-cover sedum with deep red foliage 
Light: Full sun
Size: 3 in. tall, 18 in. wide 
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9
Introducer:Garden Solutions
Source: Local garden centers

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This time of year is great for dreaming and making plans for the upcoming season. Everyone has tried-and-true favorites, but leaving space for a few new plants is always a good idea — you might just find one that performs even better than your old standbys in this batch of new shade perennial introductions.

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Mighty^™ Max Chinese astilbe (Astilbe chinensis)

You can’t miss these dramatic astilbe blooms! Fluffy vibrant pink 9- to 12-inch flowers rise on stems up to 4 feet tall in late spring to early summer. The plants are larger than most varieties too. Give astilbe some shade, and keep the soil moist for healthy-looking plants.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Big flowers on big plants; Deer-resistant
Light: Part to full shade
Size: 36 to 48 in. tall, 40 to 48 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 8 
Introducer:Growing Colors^™
Source: Local garden centers

‘Chance Encounter’ hosta (Hosta hybrid)

The powdery blue leaves with a wide margin on this new hosta will keep your shade garden interesting all season. The margin starts out apple green and matures to golden yellow with a watermark halo (a light design) where the center and margin meet. ‘Chance Encounter’ has white flowers in early summer.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Color-changing foliage with a unique watermark halo
Light: Part to full shade
Size: 12 to 16 in. tall, 36 to 42 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 9
Introducer:Proven Winners^®
Source:Great Garden Plants, 877-447-4769

‘Pink Stardust’ heucherella  (Heucherella hybrid)

If you’ve had trouble with rust infecting your heucherella, give ‘Pink Stardust’ a try. This disease-resistant variety has silvery mint green foliage and star-shaped pink flowers. It blooms from late spring through fall with deadheading.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Disease-resistant foliage with lots of pink flowers
Light: Full sun to full shade
Size: 6 in. tall, 14 in. in flower, 12 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 4 to 9
Introducer:Terra Nova^® Nurseries, Inc.
Source: Local garden centers

Summer Haze coral bells (Heuchera hybrid)

The flowers of this new series of coral bells make a big impact in shady borders. Long 22- to 25-inch stems rise over the mounded foliage with larger-than-usual individual flowers that also make good cut flowers. There are three colors in the series: White, Light Pink and Dark Pink.

Type: Perennial
Best features: Compact plants with impressive blooms; Deer-resistant
Light: Part to full shade
Size: 7 to 9 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 5 to 9
Introducer:Must Have Perennials^®
Source: Local garden centers

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Sign up for the 2026 New Plant Sweepstakes here!

Hollyhock

Alcea spp. and hybrids

Type: Biennial or perennial
Blooms: All colors except blue in early to late summer
Light: Full sun
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Pests: None serious
Size: 5 to 9 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Hardiness Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

Grow cottage garden classic: Hollyhocks

Some flowers never seem to go out of style. Take hollyhocks for example — you can use them in so many ways. They look picture-perfect next to a picket fence, adding structure to the homespun jumble of a cottage garden. Tall and stately, they make an eye-catching focal point along a rustic wall (the group above has reseeded there for years). Or add them to the back of a flowery border along with the selections in “Plants to Pair with Hollyhocks in the Garden” below. There are even dwarf varieties you can tuck in at the front of the border or grow in large containers.

Hollyhocks can be biennial or perennial

Most older hollyhock varieties are biennial, so they’ll produce a rosette of foliage the first year and bloom the second. But some species and many newer hybrids are perennial (though usually short-lived) and may bloom the first year. Whatever you get, plants reseed easily, so once you’ve planted some you’re sure to get plenty more just by letting them do their thing (even though the new generation may not look exactly like the ones you started with.) Let’s take a look at some of the beautiful varieties you’ll find and discover some tips for growing them.

Did you know?

Pollinators are frequent visitors when hollyhocks are around. Bees love their blooms and so do butterflies. In fact, you may even find the caterpillars of painted ladies and common checkered skippers munching on the foliage. Hollyhock is a favorite plant for these species to lay eggs on.

Plants to pair with hollyhocks in the garden

• Coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)
  Purple-pink or white blooms arrive in early summer and reseed, too, creating an easy-care combo. Coneflower grows 1 to 4 ft. tall, 1 to 3 ft. wide and is cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.
• False sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides)
  Add another easy-care butterfly magnet to the back of the border with the yellow daisy-shaped summer blooms of false sunflower. Plants grow 1 to 6 ft. tall and 1 to 4 ft. wide and are cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.
• Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)
  Contrast dome-shaped garden phlox with spiky hollyhocks for instant drama. Garden phlox flowers in pink, magenta, red, lavender, purple or white and grows 12 to 48 in. tall and 12 to 36 in. wide. Plants are cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9.
• Oriental poppy (Papaver orientale)
  Hollyhock will cover the empty spot left when Oriental poppy goes dormant. Oriental poppy has orange, red, white, purple, pink or burgundy blooms and grows 18 to 40 in. tall and 15 to 24 in. wide. It’s cold hardy in USDA zones 2 to 9.
• Shrub rose (Rosa hybrid)
  Shrub roses produce loads of blooms in late spring to frost, providing plenty of color even when hollyhocks are fading. Plants grow 1 to 6 ft. tall and 2 to 6 ft. wide and are cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 10.

How to grow gorgeous hollyhocks

The group of hollyhocks in the first photo above is typical of the color range you’ll find when hollyhocks reseed. But if you want a single color or double blooms, this old favorite won’t let you down. There are lots of varieties to choose from — the gallery above gives you an idea of what’s available.

Many hollyhock hybrids bloom prolifically the first or second year and then get spindly and die out. But there are some species and hybrids with a lengthier lifespan — 3 to 4 years and even longer. ‘Mars Magic’ is one of those long-lived varieties. It blooms the first year from seed with single red flowers and grows 5 to 6 feet tall and 1 to 2 feet wide. Russian hollyhock (Alcea rugosa) and figleaf hollyhock (Alcea ficifolia) species also tend to last for years. They have single yellow blooms with foliage that’s deeply lobed. Russian hollyhock grows 5 to 9 ft. tall and 1 to 2 ft. wide. ‘Las Vegas’ is a figleaf variety in a mix of colors on 5- to 6-foot-tall plants.

While 6-foot-tall ‘Blacknight’ is more typical in size for hollyhocks, there are also smaller varieties, such as 30-inch-tall ‘Queeny Purple’. Chater’s Double Pink is an antique series that’s reliably double, and ‘Halo Blossom’ is part of the rust-resistant, reblooming Halo series and grows 5 to 8 ft. tall.

Hollyhock plant sources

• Annie’s Annuals | 888-266-4370
• Select Seeds | 800-684-0395
• Swallowtail Garden | 877-489-7333

Hollyhock plant care

Hollyhocks need full sun and well-drained fertile soil. Regular moisture when plants are blooming and a slow-release plant food in spring will ensure you have picture-perfect plants.

Don’t worry about deadheading unless you want to prevent reseeding or tidy things up. Tall varieties will stay upright better if you stake the long stems.

You Might Also Like:
How to Save & Grow Hollyhock Seeds
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Common problems with hollyhocks

Rust is a common hollyhock problem that you can see in the photo above. It spreads to cover the leaf but won’t usually kill plants. To minimize the problem, grow resistant varieties and water at ground level so the foliage doesn’t get wet. Moisture encourages the spread of this fungal disease.

(Salvia x sylvestris)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Indigo-purple spikes in late spring and early summer (reblooms with deadheading)
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained soil, will tolerate drought
Pests: No serious pests
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 15 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

You can't go wrong with salvia!

Here’s some sage advice: You can’t go wrong planting salvia in your garden. It’s easy to grow, tolerates dry soil and full sun, hummingbirds love it and it’s pretty much pest-free. What more could you ask? Well, it’s gorgeous, too. That’s ‘May Night’ (‘Mainacht’) above. It’s one of the most popular salvias out there, for good reason: Its dark blue spikes bloom for more than two months if you keep it deadheaded. And it’s very cold hardy, too.

Relatives in other colors include ‘Rose Queen’, ‘Blue Hill’ (‘Blauhügel’) and ‘White Hill’ (‘Schnee-hügel’). ‘Caradonna’ looks a lot like ‘May Night’, but it has dark, almost- black stems.

Designing with ‘May Night’ salvia

When you’re designing your garden, a good rule of thumb is to contrast flower forms. Almost all salvias have spiky flowers, so pair them with daisy-shaped flowers, such as zinnias, gloriosa daisies or coreopsis for pleasing garden combinations.

Don’t have room for salvia in your garden? Try it as a container plant. Its long bloom time and tolerance of less-than-ideal conditions also helps it grow well in pots.

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‘May Night’ salvia growing tips

This salvia is quite drought-tolerant and does best in well-drained soil. If you have heavy clay, you should amend it with plenty of compost before you plant. It’s also a sun-lover, holding up well in the heat of summer, although in hot Southern gardens, it may benefit from some afternoon shade.

Cut back the plant after blooming

After the spent stems finish blooming, cut plants back to the basal foliage. This sounds dramatic, and the plant may look a little ragged for a week or so, but in a couple of weeks a new mound of fresh foliage will sprout. Later there’ll be a second flowering, smaller and not as lush as the first, but greatly appreciated in the late summer garden. Cutting back also helps if your salvia has flopped open in the center. Although this is usually a sign that the plant needs to be divided, it can also happen if you have high winds or heavy rains.

Divide salvia in spring or fall

Divide your salvia in spring when the plant is still small enough that you can see what you’re doing. Or do it in early fall, when you can cut back the plant to make it easier to handle. Dig up the entire clump and cut it apart with a sharp spade or a soil knife, then replant the chunks.

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Torch lily (Kniphofia spp. and hybrids)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Yellow, red, orange, peach, yellow-green or bicolor spikes in late spring into fall
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Pests: None serious
Size: 12 to 72 in. tall, 14 to 60 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

Make a statement with torch lily

Native to South Africa, torch lily (aka Red hot poker plant) takes hot, sunny borders in stride, producing beautiful torchlike blooms that rise on sturdy stems up to 6 feet tall. Species torch lily can be a challenge to find, but there are lots of hybrids available at garden centers and online nurseries.

While bicolor yellow to red-orange is the classic color combination, you’ll also come across solid colors and softer hues. The long, narrow leaves can be deciduous or evergreen. Most torch lilies bloom in early to late summer, but a few, such as ‘Coral’, start flowering in late spring, and ‘Yellow Cheer’ and ‘Alcazar’ take off in late summer and go into late fall unless a hard frost comes first.

Enter for a Chance to Win a Torch Lily plant from our Friends at Sooner Plant Farm!

Sweepstakes closes 8/31/25

Attention-getting blooms

Torch lily’s dramatic 4- to 7-inch-long racemes naturally draw attention. Plant one to highlight a seating area you’d like guests to visit, or strategically place a few along a path to encourage them to continue exploring. Intensify the impact with companions that have contrasting flower shapes. The nodding Virginia sweetspire (Itea virginica) blooms in the photo above frame the torch lily flowers nicely and provide a lovely counterpoint.

Nectar-filled blooms attract wildlife & pollinators

California landscape designer Rebecca Sweet loves to incorporate torch lily into her designs because their tubular nectar-filled blooms seem to attract every hummingbird in the neighborhood. But these aren’t the only birds that enjoy torch lily. The plants’ sturdy stems make it possible for heavier birds, such as the Bullock’s oriole in photo 3, to hang on and feed from the flower-packed inflorescence too.

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Designing with torch lily

Torch lily’s bold flower shape and versatile range of colors help set a garden’s mood.

Color choices matter

The orange-and-yellow variety in the photo above practically vibrates against the cobalt-blue wall in the background. Orange and blue are complementary colors (they sit across from each other on the color wheel), so create a lot of contrast when they’re near each other in the garden. In this space, white-flowered ‘Ice Queen’ torch lily would add a totally different energy.

Choose the right size plant

Some species or varieties are quite large. Kniphofia linearifolia is one of the tallest, with stems up to 6 feet tall and 3- to 5-foot-tall foliage. ‘Lady Luck’ is also quite tall, growing 5½-foot-tall stems. These are great when you want color in the middle to back of the border, or a big specimen plant.

Many of the recent torch lily introductions are smaller in stature

‘Hot and Cold’, above, grows to 3 feet tall and almost as wide with upright foliage and tangerine-orange blooms that age to cream. Mixed with dusty pink salvia (Salvia hybrids) in a cottage-style border, this reblooming torch lily keeps interest high all summer.

At the front of the border try pint-sized ‘Mango Popsicle’ or Poco^™ Orange. They max out under 2 feet tall and rebloom from summer to frost. They’re great for providing long-lasting color and are more in scale in a small space.

How to grow great torch lily

Torch lily needs full sun to produce dense foliage, strong stems and lots of flowers. It can survive in a range of soil types from sandy to loam and even tolerates salt spray.

Tips for keeping torch lily plants happy

Good drainage is essential to keep these plants coming back year after year. Cold, wet winters in dense soil or a heavy layer of mulch over the crown can cause plants to rot.

• Apply a slow-release plant food in spring every year or scratch in some compost.
• Then put down a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch 6 to 12 inches away from the crown to help conserve moisture and keep soil temperature even.

Torch lily tips from a pro

While torch lily tolerates heat and drought once it’s established, Leslie Hunter, horticulture manager of the Greater Des Moines Botanical Garden, has found that plants flower better if you water during dry spells, and that deadheading encourages rebloomers to keep producing. Learn how in the photo above. Leslie has been trialing torch lily varieties for years to find ones that will thrive in the humid summers and tough winters of her zone 5 Midwest garden. ‘Hot and Cold’ has been a favorite because it’s so flowery and has survived winter for several years, but the Popsicle and Poco^™ series have done well too. Learn more from Leslie in the video above!

Plants can be deciduous or semi-evergreen

Torch lily can have deciduous or semi-evergreen foliage, depending on the species or variety. The deciduous ones tend to be less cold hardy and have thinner leaves that die to the ground in winter. Semi-evergreen types’ leaves are a little thicker and fleshier and hang on through winter. But torch lily isn’t a plant that you’d grow specifically for winter interest. Whichever type you grow, leave the foliage in place through winter to protect the crown. In spring cut the foliage back to within 3 to 4 inches of the crown to allow fresh new growth to take off.

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Divide plants in spring to get more torch lilies

An established torch lily can live happily for years in the same place so there’s no need to divide unless you really want to spread it around your garden or share some with a friend. Divide in spring before the foliage comes up so it’s easy to see what you’re doing. But if you miss that opportunity like we did in the photos above, it won’t hurt the plant. Dig up the dense root ball and either cut or pull it apart into smaller clumps — it might be easier to pull newer pieces off the edges. The center is usually more tightly packed and needs cutting with a sharp spade or fork.

Torch lily seeds

In ideal conditions torch lily may reseed, but hybrids won’t look like the parent plant. You can also start your own and save a little money. Most seed types are a mix of shades in orange-red and yellow — ‘Flamenco’ is one variety you’ll often find. Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date, and keep the medium 70 to 75 degrees F for germination in 10 to 20 days. Keep scrolling to take a look at some of the varieties you’ll find at the garden center.

Meet different types of torch lilies

Traditionally, torch lily has red or orange-red buds that open from the bottom up and mature to yellow. It’s a showy bicolor bloom you can’t miss. But recent breeding has given gardeners more flower colors and plant sizes to choose from than ever before. Most are sold in pots at the garden center or online nurseries, but a few can be started from seed. Take a look at these torch lily hybrids and see which ones you’ll want for your own garden. 

Torch lily plant sources

• Digging Dog Nursery | 707-937-1235
• Sooner Plant Farm | 918-453-0771

Make a statement in your garden with hardy hibiscus

For big results with little effort, hardy hibiscus is a great perennial for your summer border. The biggest draw is those gorgeous 8- to 12-inch-diameter flowers — they make quite the statement! You’ll find them in shades of pink, red or white with a long pistil and bright yellow anthers that give it some tropical flair. Flowers aren’t the only attraction here — hardy hibiscus has good-looking (and disease-free!) deep-to-olive-green or purple foliage. And leaf shapes vary from round to maplelike. These big, usually 3- to 4-foot-tall perennials take up a large footprint in the border and mimic a shrub in habit.

Hardy hibiscus

(Hibiscus hybrids)

Blooms: Red, pink, lavender or white blooms from midsummer to fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Pests: Occasional Japanese beetles or hibiscus sawflies
Size: 2 to 8 ft. tall, 2 to 6 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

Meet the hibiscus plant family

Most plants that you’ll find at the garden center are hybrids or cultivars of Hibiscus moscheutos. The species and some older varieties tend to be tall and lanky with blooms near the top. But newer breeding efforts are bringing tidier, mounded habits and new flower colors, such as solid white and shades of pink and red with bluer tones. Another big plus to new hybrids is that plants develop buds up and down the stems, and petals overlap instead of having gaps between them. That provides a bigger show of color and helps the flowers stand up to rainy weather better. ‘Holy Grail’ above is one example of a newer introduction with stunning red blooms and deep purple foliage. But that’s just the beginning — scroll to the bottom of the article for more hardy hibiscus cultivars we love.

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Hardy hibiscus plant care

The secrets to growing gorgeous hardy hibiscus are plenty of sun and regular moisture. And while well-drained soil is best, this perennial also tolerates clay.

Tips for growing healthy plants

If you’ve noticed that your hibiscus leaves turn yellow and drop along with the flower buds, the plant may be drought stressed. Either water more or add a layer of organic mulch to help conserve moisture. Or, think about where you’re growing it: Laura Robles, regional product manager for Walters Gardens, a wholesale grower that’s introduced several new hardy hibiscus in recent years, suggests looking for a naturally damp spot in the garden. In her backyard, she’s found that those planted at the bottom of a slope, where rain settles, don’t need much attention, while the ones at the top of the slope, where it’s drier, need regular watering during summer.

Hibiscus will do just fine in average garden soil without extra feeding. If your soil is on the sandy side, it’s a good idea to amend it with compost to help it hold more moisture.

Did you know?

You might think that the size of the bloom is determined by how much water or fertilizer you give the plant, but it’s actually determined by temperature. When nighttime temperatures stay between 50 and 60 degrees F consistently, hibiscus will typically produce the largest flowers. Blooms last just a day, but there are clusters of them up and down the stem, so you’ll have plenty of color for a month or so in summer. Hibiscus flowers are nyctinastic — the bottom petals grow faster than the top ones, which forces flowers to close at night.

Spring cleanup for hardy hibiscus

Though you might be tempted to clean up hardy hibiscus in fall, wait until spring to cut the dead stems back. Laura says that the stems are slow to die back in fall and it takes time for them to send all the energy gathered during the growing season back to the crown. So if you cut the stems back before they’re completely dormant, plants may be more susceptible to winter dieback. Besides, the long stems with spent calyxes can add interest to the winter landscape.

Be patient for plants to emerge in spring

Plants take their time emerging in spring because they need soil temperatures that are 60 to 75 degrees F to break dormancy. Just when you think the plant has died, you’ll see green growth starting to emerge. That’s a good time to cut the old growth back. Cut the stems as close to the ground as possible, but if you can only get as far back as the stems in the photo above, that’s fine too.

Troubleshooting hardy hibiscus plants

Here are a few symptoms and solutions for common problems you might have on your hardy hibiscus:

• Plants aren’t growing well, have crispy foliage or flower buds have dropped and the foliage has turned yellow: They may need more water.
• Flowers are smaller than they should be: Nighttime temps are higher than 60 degrees F.
• Plants haven’t started growing in spring: Be patient — it’s a soil temperature thing.
• Holes in the flowers or foliage: Japanese beetles or hibiscus sawfly larvae have shown up.
• Seeds haven’t germinated: Try soaking or stratifying the seeds.

Common pests for hardy hibiscus plants

Hardy hibiscus is usually pretty trouble free. But plants can be susceptible to Japanese beetles. These insects chew big holes in the buds and leaves. Hand pick and drop them in a bucket of soapy water.

Hibiscus sawfly is another potential pest. The 3/16-inch-long adults have a black body with a red-brown thorax and black wings. Caterpillars are pale green when they’re young and develop a black head with tiny black spines as they mature. Caterpillars feed from the undersides of the leaves, leaving them looking lacy, from May to October. You might notice the small brown cocoons near the base of the plant.

For both of these pests, you can use neem oil, an organic pest control that they need to ingest. Spray leaves thoroughly on the top and bottom in the early morning or late evening just before sunset so it has time to dry before pollinators are active.

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Find the right hardy hibiscus for your garden

Choosing a hibiscus for your garden is quite a challenge — they’re all so pretty! Whichever one you go with, you can count on enjoying those lovely blooms for weeks in summer. Plus they’ll provide a feast for passing hummingbirds and other pollinators.

Plant sources

Almost Eden | almostedenplants.com
Sooner Plant Farm | soonerplantfarm.com