Try these natural pest control methods for a healthier garden

A 2005 study at the University of Illinois found that bagworm-infested shrubs surrounded by flowering plants had 71 percent higher rates of parasitism on the bagworms than shrubs that didn’t have flowers nearby. And while it’s true that you can buy some predatory insect species, growing flowers whose pollen and nectar feed beneficial insects, such as lady beetles, hoverflies or predatory wasps, is a more reliable (and easier!) way to bring them in.

For example, if your peonies attract adult tiphia wasps, they’ll lay eggs on nearby adult Japanese and Oriental beetles. And the larvae of hoverflies and lady beetles are voracious predators of aphids, plant hoppers, caterpillars and other pests.

Natural pest control tips

Follow these tips and grow the plants at right to make your garden more attractive to beneficial insects.

• Grow long-blooming plants

That way there are always flowers for beneficial insects to feed on. While it’s often the larvae that feed on pests, adults can have a short lifespan and need food at just the right time to feed, reproduce and lay eggs.

• Beneficial insects need water too

Add a few stones to a birdbath so insects have shallow areas where they can safely access moisture.

• Flower shape makes a difference

Many beneficial insect adults feed on nectar and pollen but have small mouthparts. Make it easy for them to access by growing umbel-shaped and daisy-shaped blooms.

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6 Plants That Help Attract Beneficial Insects to the Garden

1. Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Airy yellow flowers on top of long stems from summer to early fall; host plant to swallowtail butterflies
Light: Full sun
Size: 3 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11
Attractive to beneficial insects including: Lady beetles, lacewings, ichneumon wasps

2. Goldenrod (Solidago spp. and hybrids)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Plumes, spikes or long arching stems covered in small individual flowers from late summer to fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 1 to 6 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9
Attractive to beneficial insects: Hoverflies, leatherwing soldier beetles

3. Peony (Paeonia hybrids)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Single or double pink, white, purple, yellow or red blooms in early to late spring
Light: Full sun
Size: 2 to 4 ft. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8
Attractive to beneficial insects: Tiphia wasps

4. Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis)

Type: Annual
Blooms: Daisy-shaped blooms in golden yellow, orange, pink, peach, cream or bronze from late spring to frost
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Attractive to beneficial insects: Lady beetles, hoverflies

5. Queen Anne’s lace (Daucus carota)

Type: Biennial
Blooms: White blooms in summer; be cautious of toxic sap
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 36 to 48 in. tall, 6 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 11
Attractive to beneficial insects: Hoverflies, lacewings, lady beetles

6. Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima)

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Clusters of individual white, purple or lavender flowers form a mass of color from late spring to frost
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 3 to 9 in. tall, 6 to 14 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11
Attractive to beneficial insects including: Hoverflies

PHOTOS: stock.adobe.com, jonnysek (Dill); stock.adobe.com, Gerry (Queen Anne’s lace)

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From the Wild Side: Drinks All Around

One hot, sunny day last summer, I killed a bee. Not on purpose — I work hard to not kill bees — but it was my fault. I had walked outside to check the hummingbird feeder and to add water to the “ant well,” the little reservoir that keeps ants from reaching the homemade nectar farther down. And there she was: a bumblebee floating alone in the cup, looking terribly small and certainly dead. Her fluffy stripes were messy and matted, while the pollen she’d stored on her thighs was now melting into yellow sludge.

I’ve used that cup for years, not so much to discourage ants as to encourage chickadees. They and the goldfinches and tufted titmice all prefer to take private, dainty sips from the ant well rather than catch communal drinks at any of my birdbaths-of-the-masses. And who can blame them? Birds can’t take a bath or a dump in an ant well. But apparently, bumblebees can drown in one. I already use sticks as safety ladders in every other possible water source, but that was the day I learned that hummer feeders need one too.

Did you know?

A hummingbird’s diet is 80 percent meat (tiny insects and spiders), but fresh sugar-water is always welcome, especially during spring and fall migration. Clean the feeder every two or three days to avoid mold.

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Water for All Types of Wildlife

The thing is, no drowning should ever happen on my watch. Not when I pile bumpy stones in the birdbaths, angle sticks in the pond and heap gravel in the butterfly puddling dish. I cover water barrels with netting, tip saucers after rain and leave a scrap of chicken wire in the watering can. And I’ve spent untold hours tweaking ways to make it almost impossible for my Mosquito Buckets of Doom to doom anything but mosquitoes. I didn’t invent the mosquito-bucket trick, but I did invent the name, and my version was the first to feature an escape ramp, should anyone other than a mosquito fall in.

Simple solutions can save a life

Water is life, so I hate when my water kills things. I want every creature, whether bird, skink, snake, squirrel, possum, chipmunk or bug to come for drinks and then leave in one piece. Providing water, even one dish of it, is essential for adding habitat back to where we live. How did I fix the ant well? With a short stub of a stick rough enough for a bee to grab, but small enough for a chickadee to have room for his drink too. 

Secret water sources: Weeping plants

There is another source of water I should mention. Although it likely happens in everyone’s yard, it’s kind of a secret and kind of a miracle, and it never needs a safety ramp: plants that weep water. Some species have hydathodes, one-way nozzles that let extra water seep up and out of the leaf margins at night, and only when the humidity is right and the soil is wet, and only at leaves low to the ground. The process is called guttation.

Imagine the heart-shaped leaf of a wild violet rimmed with tiny, clear beads that sparkle in the sun. Or curvy columbine leaves fringed with droplets. I’ve seen guttation on tomato leaves, kale, grapevine, jewelweed, and bee balm, and some days on every single blade of grass.

Fireflies get thirsty too!

You know what else is low to the ground at daybreak? Thirsty fireflies. It’s now a highlight of a summer morning to run out and watch fireflies suck the violets and sip the grass. They must be tired after a night of trying to make more fireflies, and each guttation drop contains valuable carbs and protein — a breakfast of champions. And the best part is that no one can drown in a drop.

Joanna, author of "This Is How a Robin Drinks: Essays on Urban Nature," writes about everyday wonders in everyday habitat loss on Instagram @jo_brichetto and at SidewalkNature.com.

Q: I find seeds for brightly colored hostas being sold online, but where can I buy plants?

A: Well, as the old adage goes, buyer beware.

The advertisements selling seeds for vividly colored hostas (Hosta spp. and hybrids) like the one above are, at best, misleading. As of now there are no bright blue, vivid red or rich purple hosta cultivars. The images have been doctored. Want more proof?

Scroll to the site’s Terms of Use page and it will explain that the company is not responsible for plants that don’t match the images in the ad. It’s better to buy from local or reputable online companies who will stand behind their stock.

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Try these reliable & colorful hostas

So, what is colorful in the hosta world these days? The lists below show a few proven standards and new introductions to try.

Red-leaved hostas are still elusive

It's safe to say that true red-leaved hostas have yet to be found. However, several cultivars have red or burgundy petioles (leaf stems) that can add a colorful accent to the garden. Here are a few of our favorites:

• ‘Island Breeze’ hosta (above)
• ‘Cherry Berry’ hosta
• ‘Red Dragon’ hosta

Trusted blue hostas

Blue hostas are the most shade tolerant, in hues of gray- or blue green, often with a waxy coating. Try a few of these reliable blue varieties:

• ‘Halcyon’ hosta (above)
• ‘Blue Mouse Ears’ hosta
• ‘Blue Angel’ hosta

Love blue hostas? Enter our sweepstakes for a chance to win 3 unique varieties from NH Hostas this summer!

Hostas with yellow or gold foliage

Bright yellows and golds shine in the shade. But most show the best color if they get sun part of the day. Try these cultivars to brighten your garden beds and borders:

• ‘Coast to Coast’ hosta (above)
• ‘Lemontini’ hosta
• ‘Lipstick Blonde’ hosta

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White Mulberry (Morus alba)

How to identify the plant

Along with lots of birds and animals, you might think of white mulberry as a 20- to 60-foot-tall tree with tasty fruit. But its rampant seeding makes this non-native an invasive pest that squeezes out native species.

Leaves on young plants are heart shaped with toothed margins, but as the plant matures, they can be deeply lobed or mitten shaped. Unlike the native red mulberry (Morus rubra), the leaves of white mulberry have a soft gloss on top and are smooth on the underside. Pale green spring catkins are followed by red to dark purple blackberry-shaped fruit in early summer.

The root system is shallow and bright yellow to orange. Break a twig and it oozes milky sap. Older bark is furrowed with a slightly orange-gray color. Mature trees tend to break easily in storms.

Where to find white mulberry

Seedlings sprout almost anywhere in North America, in sun or shade, good soil or poor.

How to control white mulberry

Seeds are spread by birds and animals, so remove plants before they set fruit. Pull or hoe out seedlings. Saplings can be dug. Cut down larger plants. Repeat cutting new sprouts or cover the stump with black plastic to deprive the plant of food so it eventually dies. If you need to resort to a chemical solution, look for a nonselective herbicide that can be applied to a cut stump.

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Nimblewill (Muhlenbergia schreberi)

What this weed looks like

This fine-textured native perennial grass can grow up to 24 inches tall, but in turf areas the wiry stems are kept shorter because of mowing. However, you might not notice it in your lawn until cold weather arrives. Then the sprawling, densely branched mats of warm-season grass turn brown faster than most turfgrasses, as you can see in the photo above, and it remains brown until spring.

From midsummer into fall, narrow heads, or panicles, rise just above the leaves loaded with tiny flowers that form lots of seeds. Even if the plant is mowed, it will continue to produce seeds.

Where to find nimblewill

This weed hides best in lawns, but seeds also sprout in beds, borders and vegetable gardens. Tolerant of shade to full sun, moist to dry conditions, it’s happy almost anywhere.

How to get rid of nimblewill grass

You can easily pull or hoe it from beds and borders. In a lawn, rake over a cluster to gather stems before pulling or digging. Be sure you get all of the pieces or it will quickly regrow. Nonselective herbicides will kill it, but they also kill plants it has sprawled into. Selective herbicides, such as mesotrione, are effective in cool-season turfgrasses. Apply it in summer when the weed is actively growing. However, it’s best to contact a lawn professional to be sure it‘s safe to use on your turf.

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Nimblewill photo in summer by Emily Summerbell, CC BY 4.0 https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

A smart mulching tip using old nursery pots

Like many gardeners, our reader Mary hangs on to nursery pots rather than tossing them in the landfill, confident they’ll be useful someday. While mulching a newly planted garden bed, she stumbled on a clever new use: turning those extra pots into protective covers that shield young plants and make mulching easier.

Use nursery pots as simple mulch rings

Mary simply inverts a nursery pot of the appropriate size over each new or emerging plant before mulching the garden bed. The upside-down pots act as protective covers, allowing her to spread mulch quickly and evenly without worrying about burying tender stems or damaging young growth. When you slip off the pots, the mulch falls almost perfectly in place, leaving it a couple of inches away from the plant crowns.

Mulching made easy

This trick is especially helpful in newly planted beds where small plants can easily disappear beneath a fresh layer of mulch. Once you’ve finished, just remove the pots and stack them up to reuse again next season. See the tip in action at our test garden in the video below.

Tip submitted by Mary Dickinson, IL

Try this easy mulching hack!

Submit Your Garden Tip

Did you know that we pay $50 for each tip we publish in Garden Gate magazine? Send us your smart ideas and photos using our online form. Please include your name, address and daytime phone number in case we have questions.

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Both types of garden fertilizer contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, the nutrients all plants require. Plants can absorb these nutrients however they’re made available. Both types have their place:

• Packaged organic fertilizers will improve soil structure and give plants a steady feeding, which is what you’re looking for in a permanent planting, such as a perennial border.
• In a container or a bed of annuals, where you want fast growth, you might choose a faster-acting or time-release synthetic fertilizer.

Comparing organic fertilizer and synthetic fertilizer

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How to Buy Mulch, Compost and Topsoil by the Numbers

It’s always frustrating to come home from the garden center with what you think is plenty of mulch, only to find that your estimate fell far short. Save yourself extra trips when you use this simple calculation to determine how much mulch, soil or compost you need for any job. And we’ll help you figure out the best way to move it too.

Calculate how much material you need in cubic feet

Length × Width × Depth (measured in feet)
For example, a 36 × 6-foot bed with 3 inches (.25 feet) of mulch:
36 × 6 × .25 = 54 cubic feet

Need a lot? Consider buying in bulk

Cubic feet ÷ 27 = cubic yards
For example, 54 cubic feet ÷ 27 = 2 cubic yards

Download the printable guide!

How do bags and bulk garden materials compare?

*Know your vehicle’s load limits!

A cubic yard of topsoil can weigh 1,000 to 3,000 pounds, depending on how much clay or moisture is in the mix. A cubic yard of compost is usually 1,000 to 1,500 pounds and bark mulch, 400 to 700 pounds. Don’t forget to include your own weight and that of any passengers in your calculations!

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A high-value lawn fertilization program focuses on the right nutrients at the correct time for your specific grass type, not just the lowest price. When you match fertilizer to your soil and follow a smart schedule, you support stronger roots, fewer weeds and steady growth without wasting money. This guide is brought to you by the specialists at Ricci's Landscape Management (RLM, Inc.) — a full-service lawn care and landscaping company serving Northwest Indiana.

What should I look for in a lawn care program?

A fertilization plan should green up your outdoor space and support its long-term health from the soil up. Look for these core elements:

• Targeted nutrients: Use applications based on your soil and grass type, not a generic mix.
  
• Seasonal timing: Apply fertilizer when your grass can actually use it.
  
• Weed and pest control: Choose a service with built-in prevention.
  
• Soil support: Help nutrients reach the roots with aeration.

According to experts, healthy grass depends on a balanced approach that combines nutrients, weed control and proper loam care rather than a single treatment. If your yard has struggled in the past, a system can help.

Why Fertilizer Options Matter

The best-value program depends on your grass type and how it grows throughout the year. A simple, well-timed plan is your most effective strategy. Here’s a practical breakdown.

To stretch your budget more, focus on these rules:

• Test your soil before choosing products.
• Prioritize nitrogen unless your soil needs other nutrients.
• Use slow-release fertilizer for steady growth.
• Split applications instead of applying everything at once.

According to the RLM, Inc. fertilization program, pricing matters less than effective management. You should remember that “in the warm summer sun, weeds can take over if they’re not under control. Summer also provides ideal conditions for many types of pests that can become a bigger problem for your lawn if not treated or managed correctly.”

Are professional fertilizer programs worth the money?

You can fertilize your lawn yourself, but the results depend on timing, product choice and consistency. Professional systems often deliver better value over time.

Professionals focus on long-term lawn health by combining fertilization with specialized liquid aeration and grub control. If your previous DIY attempts haven't worked, a structured, cost-effective program prevents repeated trial and error.

FAQs

What are the best lawn care packages for my type of grass?
Choose an option based on how your grass grows. Cool-season types require full fertilization, while warm-season grasses need spring and summer feeding.

Where can I find affordable lawn fertilization services across the U.S.?
You can use sites like GreenPal to find lawn fertilization services near you.

This article was sponsored by Ricci's Landscape Management, a Northwest Indiana landscape management company that focuses on long-term grass health and sustained growth.

What is included in a typical lawn fertilization program?
Most programs include seasonal fertilizer applications, pre-emergent weed control, post-emergent treatments, and optional pest or grub management. Some providers offer optional services such as aeration.

Can you have a lawn that lasts?

A healthy lawn needs more than a quick fix. When you choose a fertilization program that fits your grass type, soil and seasonal needs, you’ll enjoy steady growth and fewer problems over time. Work with professionals to help you get greener grass and consistent results without the trial and error of DIY landscape management.

Article written by Eloise Badenhorst

7 Ways to Set Up Your Garden for a Beautiful, Protected Spring

Spring is full of promise. Beds are cleaned up, new plants added and every fresh shoot feels like the start of something beautiful. But spring is also when gardens are most vulnerable. Tender growth can be set back by late cold, pounding rain, hungry pests and browsing animals that seem to know exactly when the best plants have emerged.

That is why a beautiful spring garden is not just about adding color. It is about setting the space up to thrive. The smartest gardens combine strong early care, thoughtful planting and protection from the start. Here are seven ways to do just that.

1. Start with a cleaner, crisper canvas

Before adding anything new, refresh the garden you already have. Clear away winter debris, cut back what truly needs cutting, pull visible weeds and redefine bed edges. Even a modest cleanup can make the whole space feel brighter and more intentional.

There is no need to strip everything bare all at once, though. Beneficial insects may still be sheltering in stems and leaf litter early in the season. A gradual cleanup is often the better approach, especially if you focus first on what blocks new growth or makes the garden look untidy. The goal is not to erase winter overnight. It is to help spring take center stage.

2. Feed the soil before you feed the eye

Healthy spring color starts below ground. If the soil surface has crusted over or compacted during winter, loosen it gently and top-dress with compost or other organic matter. That helps roots get better access to air and moisture and gives plants a stronger start as growth picks up.

This may not be the flashiest spring task, but it supports everything that comes next. Better soil leads to steadier growth, stronger flowering and plants that are better able to handle spring’s sudden swings between cold, wet weather and warm, drying winds.

3. Add color where it matters most

Not every bed needs a total redo, but nearly every garden has a few places that deserve attention first. Focus on the spots you see every day: the front walk, the patio area, around the entry or outside a favorite window.

Tuck in cool-season annuals, early bloomers or colorful containers where they will have the most impact. Then think in layers. Low plants in front, mounded shapes through the middle and a few taller accents behind will make the planting feel fuller and more pulled together than a scattered mix of spring flowers.

4. Put protection in place before the garden becomes a target

This is the step many gardeners put off until something gets eaten. Unfortunately, by then the damage is already done.

Fresh spring growth is especially tempting, which makes early season the ideal time to protect vulnerable areas such as cutting gardens, vegetable beds, new borders and favorite ornamental plantings. A metal deer fence is especially effective in spring because it protects the garden without drawing attention away from it. Rather than feeling bulky or obtrusive, it allows the planting itself to remain the focus.

“A lot of gardeners wait until they actually see damage, but by then those tender spring plants have already taken a hit,” said Stephanie Anderson, customer support manager at DeerBusters. “If deer or other browsing animals are common in your area, it really helps to put protection in place early, before that fresh new growth starts drawing them in.”

5. Do not forget the lower-level damage

Not every garden problem comes from larger animals. In many yards, the real frustration happens lower down with chewed stems, dug-in beds and damage from smaller animals that slip through wider openings.

If that sounds familiar, it helps to look beyond the main perimeter and strengthen the lower part of the garden where needed. A metal chew or rodent barrier at the base of a fence can make a real difference around high-value beds, young plantings and edible gardens. It is a practical way to protect vulnerable growth near the soil line without changing the overall look of the space.

“People often focus on deer and forget about the damage that happens closer to the ground,” Anderson said. “If rabbits or other small animals are part of the problem, adding protection at the base can save a lot of frustration and help young plants get established.”

6. Make access part of the plan

A protected garden still needs to be easy to use. When gardeners think about fencing, they often focus on keeping animals out and overlook how they themselves will move through the space. Plan entry points while you are planning the layout. Where will you need to walk in with tools, watering cans or a wheelbarrow? Which beds need the easiest access for deadheading, harvesting or routine upkeep? A well-placed gate makes a protected garden easier to care for, and that usually means it will stay more attractive all season.

“You want protection to work with the way you actually use the garden,” Anderson said. “Easy access matters, especially when you’re going in and out for watering, weeding, harvesting or regular upkeep.”

7. Build for more than one moment of bloom

One of the biggest spring gardening mistakes is planning for one spectacular week instead of a longer, more graceful season. The best beds unfold in stages. As one plant peaks, another begins to rise. As one bloom fades, foliage or later performers begin to carry the show forward. Use spring planting to build that sequence.

Pair bulbs with perennials that will help cover fading foliage. Mix flower shapes and leaf textures. Add a few shrubs or structural plants to anchor the display. Once the garden is protected, it is much easier to plan confidently for what comes next instead of constantly replacing what was lost.

A beautiful spring garden is a protected one

Spring gardening should feel hopeful, not frustrating. And in many landscapes, beauty lasts longer when it is protected from the start. A little cleanup, better soil, layered color and a thoughtful fencing plan can make a remarkable difference.

The payoff is not just a prettier garden — it is a stronger one throughout the summer and beyond. When the framework is in place early, the whole season feels easier to enjoy and much less like a race to stay ahead of the damage.

Want to keep spring beds beautiful from the start?Explore DeerBusters’ nearly invisible garden fencing and practical resources for protecting flower beds, vegetable gardens and other vulnerable plantings.

Shop Garden Protection at DeerBusters.com

Photos courtesy of DeerBusters