Spring beauty (Claytonia virginica)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Delicate white-pink petals with pink veining in early spring; plants are ephemeral: the foliage fades away by early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Size: 4 to 12 in. tall, 6 to 9 in. wide
Hardiness Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

From the Wild Side: Spring beauties

I had just sat down under our sugar maple tree (Acer saccharum), hoping to focus on nothing, when a bee buzzed by and focused on me. She was smaller, darker and cuter than a honeybee, and I could’ve sworn I saw pink thighs, but she was definitely checking me out. Was she trying to tell me something? Sure enough, when I stood up, she flew to a tiny hole in the soil I had been sitting on; I didn’t see it until she crawled right to it. She was a mining bee, fresh from her own winter nest, busy building a new one for her babies.

Back then, I had no idea that Nashville had hundreds of species of native bees — each with their own requirements and timing — but I did know that some made nests in soil and that I had finally caught one in the act. So I kept watching. Every time she left the hole, she ignored the sweet violets (Viola sororia), early buttercups (Ranunculus fascicularis) and other blooms in the grass to visit only one species of wildflower: spring beauty.

Native bees are pollen specialists

About the size of a dime, spring beauty’s white-pink flower offers nectar and pollen to all sorts of insects. But I had met the one insect who cannot reproduce without it, a spring beauty bee (Andrena erigeniae), a pollen specialist. And get this — the pollen is pink! I was right about those pink saddlebags. If you don’t believe me, check out the close-up view in the photo below.

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How the beneficial relationship works

The female spring beauty bee gathers pollen — and only this particular pollen — to provision each of her eggs with a little pink cake. When an egg hatches, the larval bee eats the spring beauty pollen until it pupates. Then next year, when this wildflower blooms again, new adults emerge, ready to make more bees.

Lawns in my neighborhood used to bloom with so many spring beauties, they looked like they’d been sprinkled with snow. But in the 30 years I’ve been watching, a lawn with even a hint of these flowers has become rare. And when the plant disappears, the bees disappear. What if more neighbors knew about this wildflower sleeping in our seed bank? What if they knew about the charismatic little bee who depends on this flower, and that there are many other specialist bees as well?

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Change garden practices to support pollinator populations

I know from personal experience that falling in love with just one native bee, butterfly or bird can change everything, change us. It’s why I’ve shrunk the lawn, quit herbicides and pesticides, weeded invasives, planted natives and written a book.

I also know that we can’t fall in love with what we haven’t met, which could be, by the way, the best reason to take breaks under a sugar maple even when trying to focus on nothing. You never know who might buzz by.

Keep an eye out for native bees

Want to meet a spring beauty bee? Find the flowers and some sun between 10 a.m. and 2 p.m. Try when the day isn’t breezy, so the only movement is a bee. If you see a flower tip under the bulk of a visitor, it’s not a spring beauty bee — it doesn’t weigh enough to bend a stem. If you see a small black bee with sparse white whiskers and saddlebags loaded with pale pink pollen, there she is — the real beauty of spring.

Plant sources

• Prairie Moon Nursery, 866-417-8156
• Izel Native Plants, 410-989-3721

Joanna, author of "This Is How a Robin Drinks: Essays on Urban Nature," writes about everyday wonders in everyday habitat loss on Instagram @jo_brichetto and at SidewalkNature.com.

Stepping into the garden and discovering that the plants you’ve lovingly nurtured are now looking ragged, or even stripped bare, is incredibly frustrating. Voracious insect pests can quickly unravel your hard work and shatter your garden dreams.

Finding the culprit is the first step to getting your garden back on track. While many pests are widespread, I talked with experts from various regions to find out which ones were causing the most trouble in their areas and what you can do about them. One thing they all agreed on: Tackling pest problems with integrated pest management (IPM) is easier on the environment and helps prevent pesticide resistance.

What is IPM?

This decision-making approach for pest control starts with low-environmental-impact strategies first, then steps up the strength of the response if necessary. For example, when you notice damage, use an insect identification app or check your county extension resources to pinpoint the culprit. Then decide how much damage you can tolerate. If you’re willing to wait it out, many pest problems fizzle as the moisture or temperatures change, and most plants will bounce back with new growth in just a few weeks.

More About IPM Practices:
IPM Basics: Controlling Weeds
IPM Basics: Controlling Pests
IPM Basics: Controlling Garden Diseases

If you find that a problem returns every year, the next level of prevention could include cultural practices, such as growing resistant varieties, rotating crops or using row cover or landscape fabric to prevent pests from laying eggs. If all else fails, the final step might be a targeted chemical control, whether it’s organic or synthetic. The idea is to be strategic and only do the minimum necessary to deal with the most damaging pests in your garden.

Find out which garden pests are causing issues in your region

We asked regional gardening experts which pests are causing issues in their part of the country and which ones to look out for. Click your region in the list below to find more details about each pest:

Pacific Northwest

• European earwig (Forficula auricularia)
• Bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius)
• Lookout for this rising pest:Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica)

Midwest

• Roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops)
• Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)
• Lookout for this rising pest:Spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Southeast

• Larger canna leafroller (Calpodes ethlius)
• Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae)
• Lookout for this rising pest: Cotton jassid (Amrasca biguttula)

Northeast

• Four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus)
• Bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis)
• Lookout for this rising pest: Allium leaf miner (Phytomyza gymnostoma)

Regional Pest Watch: Midwest

Regional Expert: Kyle Broderick, Associate Extension Educator, Plant Pathology, University of Nebraska, Lincoln

Even with hot, humid summers and winter temperatures that get below 0 degrees F, there are lots of pests to battle in Midwest gardens. Our regional expert shares three to be on the lookout for along with helpful tips for identifying and managing them.

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Roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops)

These ½-inch-long yellow-green caterpillars with an orange head do all the damage and are active from spring to early summer. The adult looks like a fly but is actually a wasp.

What roseslug sawfly eats

This pest eats all kinds of roses (Rosa spp. and hybrids), but it is especially attracted to rambling roses.

Damage to look for

The caterpillar chews and scrapes the upper surface of leaves, creating a windowpane effect. Damage is mostly cosmetic and may diminish flowering, but it won’t kill the rose. Professor Broderick noticed that populations were high in recent years but finds that they tend to peak and wane over time.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Handpick caterpillars early in the season or spray them off with a strong stream of water. Beetles, birds, parasitic wasps and small mammals will feed on the roseslug sawfly. Insecticidal soap can help but must come into contact with the larvae to work. Spray both the upper and lower leaf surfaces in early morning or early evening, when cooler temperatures keep the soap from drying too quickly, so more larvae are affected.

Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)

These tiny arachnids measure 1⁄50 of an inch long and range in color from rusty green to brown, yellow, red or orange with two black spots on their backs. They are most active from spring through summer and produce multiple generations per year.

What two-spotted spider mites eat

Two-spotted spider mites are a problem for more than 200 plant species.

Damage to look for

Adults and nymphs (juveniles that look like the adults but are smaller) use piercing mouthparts to feed on the undersides of leaves, which causes a stippled or mottled look. As populations rise, plants look bronzed or bleached, leaves and flowers become distorted and these spider relatives produce webbing often found on the undersides of the leaves. They thrive in dry growing conditions and temperatures above 90 degrees F. Healthy plants can withstand some mites, but stressed ones may succumb.

IPM tips

To prevent infestations, use mulch, choose drought-tolerant plants and don’t fertilize during a drought. Spraying with water can help dislodge two-spotted spider mites from foliage.

Look out for this rising pest in the Midwest:

Spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

The 1-inch-long spotted lanternfly adults have brown forewings with black spots and black, white and scarlet hind wings. They’re active from spring through fall and produce one generation of black to red nymphs per year.

What spotted lanternfly eats

First spotted in Pennsylvania in 2014, this colorful, invasive plant hopper is slowly spreading to other states. It feeds on more than 100 plant species, such as grape vines (Vitis spp.), hops (Humulus lupulus), maple (Acer spp. and hybrids) and fruit trees, along with a host of ornamental garden plants.

Damage to look for

Both nymphs and adults use piercing mouthparts to feed, which results in oozing sap, wilting, leaf curling and dieback. They also produce honeydew, which smells bad as it ferments and attracts wasps, ants and bees. The damage doesn’t usually kill plants but causes stress that allows other pests or diseases to move in.

IPM tips

Remove the weedy tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima), as it is a favorite host plant. In fall, look for and remove the distinctive 1-inch-long egg masses, which look like smeared mud on tree trunks.

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Regional Pest Watch: Northeast

Regional Expert: Dr. Ana Legrand, PhD, Entomologist, University of Connecticut

Snow-covered winters and warm, humid summers create ideal growing conditions for plants—and garden pests. Our regional expert shares how to identify three common pests and the damage they can cause in your garden.

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Four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus)

This 1/3-inch-long green-yellow plant bug has four black stripes and is most active in late spring to early summer. The nymphs are bright red to orange with black spots on the abdomen.

Favorite plant

The four-lined plant bug is a pest of more than 250 plant species but seems especially fond of plants in the mint family.

Damage to look for

Both adults and nymphs use piercing mouthparts to feed on foliage. This causes black or brown spots that are often confused with fungal disease. In small numbers, four-lined plant bug feeding only makes the plants look bad. But with a big population, entire leaves can curl up and fall off. New growth may be deformed.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Insecticidal soap can get rid of nymphs. Handpick the larger adults. Dr. Legrand recommends holding a container of soapy water under infested foliage and tapping the plant so these fast-moving insects fall in and drown. Look closely at leaf stems for 2- to 3-inch-long scarring where females have made small slits to lay eggs. Remove these leaves and put them in the trash to prevent the next generation from developing.

Bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis)

You’re more likely to see the “bags,” or cases, than the gray caterpillars with dark splotches inside them. The bags start small and get larger as the caterpillar grows and adds more foliage pieces. Bagworms are active in spring through summer, producing one generation per year.

Favorite plants

Bagworms are attracted to a wide range of conifers, including arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), juniper (Juniperus spp. and hybrids) and spruce (Picea abies). They’ll also feed on deciduous trees, such as sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos f. inermis) and linden (Tilia spp.).

Damage to look for

Bagworm larvae eat the needles and foliage of their host tree. Though the damage is light at first, as the larvae grow they cause serious defoliation, which can be especially hard on evergreens.

IPM tips

Keep an eye out for the distinctive bags the larvae create from silk and bits of foliage from the host plant. Pull or cut them off and send them away in the trash. For larger trees or infestations, spray Bt when young bagworms emerge in late spring to early summer.

Rising pest to look out for in the Northeast:

Allium leaf miner (Phytomyza gymnostoma)

The small gray 1/8-inch-long flies have a yellow head and produce two generations of cream 5/16-inch-long larvae each year. They’re most active in spring and fall.

Favorite plant

Ornamental allium (Allium spp. and hybrids), chives, garlic and leeks are beginning to be attacked by this new invasive pest in Northeast gardens.

Damage to look for

In spring and fall, females lay eggs on the tips of allium leaves. The spring larvae tunnel through the leaves and leaf sheaths, causing disfigured foliage and creating openings for fungi and bacteria. In fall the larvae overwinter.

IPM tips

Insect netting or row cover can help prevent adults from laying eggs in spring. Keep an eye out for rows of white spots (the injury caused by egg laying) descending from leaf tips near the ends of the leaves, and remove any that you find. Rotate crops and clean up the garden in fall so larvae don’t have a place to overwinter.

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Regional Pest Watch: Pacific Northwest

Regional Expert: Nicole Sanchez, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Oregon State University

Mountain ranges create diverse growing environments here, with one side having fertile soil and regular winter rainfall, while the other is dry and arid. Our regional expert shares a couple of pests that can wreak havoc on your garden in the Pacific Northwest and one that is rising in the area to watch out for.

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European earwig (Forficula auricularia)

These red-brown ⅝-inch-long insects with long or short cerci (the pincerlike appendage in back) are most active in spring through fall and have one or two generations per year.

What European earwig eats

Though earwigs eat aphids and other insects, they also feed on seedlings, flowers, foliage, soft fruit and vegetables. Fast moving with a big tail-end pincer, this insect also has the startle factor when it darts out from under foliage or a container.

Damage to look for

Earwigs are most active at night, chewing holes in fruit, flowers and leaves. This voracious pest can decimate entire plants or a row of seedlings in a single feeding, then hides during the day.

Integrated pest management (IPM) tips

Professor Sanchez finds this homemade trap helpful in reducing earwig damage: She fills an empty 16-ounce plastic container about a third full with vegetable oil, adds a little soy sauce and cuts a few ½-inch holes in the lid before putting it back on the container. Then she digs a hole and positions the container flush with the ground. The soy sauce lures earwigs into the trap, where the oil smothers them. Each morning she empties the trap and sets it again for another night.

Bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius)

Slender green-bronze ⅜-inch-long flathead beetles are most active in early summer and produce one generation of ¾- to 1-inch-long cream larvae per year.

What bronze birch borer eats

This beetle is a serious problem in the Pacific Northwest, killing birch (Betula spp. and hybrids) trees of all kinds, especially white-barked types. River birch (Betula nigra) seems to be somewhat resistant.

Damage to look for

Sparse yellow foliage and twig dieback in the upper crown are an early clue that bronze birch borer larvae are burrowing through a tree and disrupting its nutrient flow. The decline can be reversed if you catch it early, but if more than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, it likely can’t be saved. Look for small ⅛- to ¼-inch D-shaped exit holes in the bark where adults have emerged or zigzag lines on the bark.

IPM tips

Drought stress makes birch trees especially vulnerable. Keep them growing strong by choosing a planting spot on the north or east side of the house, where it’s cooler, watering during dry spells and providing a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch.

Look out for this rising pest in the Pacific Northwest:

Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica)

Shiny green and bronze, this ⅓- to ½-inch-long beetle is most active in early to midsummer and produces one generation of C-shaped ⅛-inch- long white grubs per year.

What Japanese beetles eat

Japanese beetles have become common in the Eastern United States and Midwest but are only now making their way into the Pacific Northwest. It eats hundreds of different plants, but rose (Rosa spp. and hybrids), canna (Canna spp. and hybrids) and hibiscus (Hibiscus spp. and hybrids) are some favorites.

Damage to look for

Metallic-looking adults feed on the flowers and upper surfaces of leaves and skeletonize them. Flower petals have holes or are completely consumed. While the damage looks bad, it doesn’t usually kill the plant. Larvae nibble on turfgrass roots below ground, which causes brown patches in the lawn.

IPM tips

Protect small plants with row cover from June to September when adults are active. You can also pick and drop adults into a bucket of soapy water. Avoid pheromone traps — they attract even more beetles. To create a less hospitable environment for egg laying and young larvae, don’t water your lawn in mid- to late summer.

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Southeast region pest watch

The long growing season in the Southeast means lots of flowers and a plentiful harvest—unless pests take over. We asked two regional experts, and they shared three pests that can wreak havoc on your garden and that Southeast gardeners should watch for.

Regional Experts: Shimat Joseph, Associate Professor of Entomology, University of Georgia & Alton Sparks, Professor of Entomology, University of Georgia

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Larger canna leafroller (Calpodes ethlius)

Eggs laid by the 1-inch brown Brazilian skipper butterfly hatch and grow into this 2-inch-long translucent green caterpillar with an orange head. Both are active in summer, and there are two generations per year.

What larger canna leafroller eats

Cannas (Canna spp. and hybrids) are by far the favorite plant of this butterfly’s pesky larvae. It will occasionally feed on Indian arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea).

Damage to look for

The caterpillar secures part of the canna leaf around itself with a silk strand for protection while feeding. Generally, it stays on the same leaf, eating and molting before metamorphosing into a butterfly. Severe infestations can defoliate plants.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Handpick and squish the larvae to kill them. If you’ve had problems in the past, avoid growing red-leafed canna varieties and those with red or orange flowers. For large populations, spray Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). The caterpillars have to ingest this for it to be effective, so apply liberally to thoroughly coat the leaf.

Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae)

Dark red females grow ⅞ of an inch long and are covered with a white feltlike covering. Active in spring through summer, they produce two to four generations of pink nymphs per year.

What crape myrtle bark scale eats

Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is by far the most common host for this invasive pest. Occasionally you’ll find it on beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp. and hybrids) and boxwood (Buxus hybrids).

Damage to look for

Females and nymphs feed on the sap of small branches, twigs of trees and shrubs, and cluster around pruning cuts, causing poor growth, fewer flowers and leaf drop. Stem dieback can occur when populations are high. Bees and wasps are attracted to the scale’s honeydew, which can also cause sooty mold to develop.

IPM tips

Because of its covering, crape myrtle bark scale is a challenge to treat. This is still a relatively new pest, but researchers have found lady beetle larvae to be especially effective predators.

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Look out for this rising pest in the Southeast:

Cotton jassid (Amrasca biguttula)

The tiny ⅛-inch pale green cotton jassid has one dark spot on the back of each wing and moves diagonally, instead of straight ahead like most other insects. It’s active in summer, and each year it can produce up to 11 generations of pale green wingless nymphs that look similar to the adults.

What cotton jassid eats

Cotton jassid was first identified in Florida in 2024 and moved into Georgia and North Carolina in 2025. Cotton is a top choice for this invasive pest, but so is sunflower (Helianthus spp. and hybrids), tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), okra and eggplant.

Damage to look for

You’re likely to see the damage before noticing the insect, so if your plants have yellowing foliage that eventually turns red-brown, check the undersides of the leaves, especially around the third to fifth leaves from the terminal (the leaf at the end of the stem), for insects. Both nymphs and adults feed on sap.

IPM tips

Researchers are still looking for solutions. Spiders, lady beetles, ants and green lacewings are possible predators. If you find cotton jassid in your garden, contact your local extension agency.

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How to identify crape myrtle bark scale?

Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae), or CMBS, was first reported in North America around 2004, and has spread rapidly wherever crape myrtles grow. Its damage is rarely fatal to otherwise healthy crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia spp. and hybrids), but it’s unsightly and can reduce vigor and flowering. In severe cases you might see stunted growth or a few dead branches.

In Southern climates, there can be up to four generations of this sap-sucking scale insect per year. So you might find different stages on a tree at any time. Small, feltlike white or pale gray egg sacs hang along branches. Eventually they open, each releasing up to 300 pink nymphs, which crawl and fasten themselves to the bark to begin feeding. Some may be carried to other crape myrtle trees by wind or water.

As the adults feed, they excrete a sweet, sticky honeydew. It sticks to crape myrtle’s leaves and bark (and anything else underneath), eventually turning to a sooty black mold.

How to get rid of crape myrtle bark scale

Horticultural oils will suffocate CMBS at any stage of life. Read the label to determine the right mixture for the time of year. But before you spray, scrub off some of the worst infestation with soapy water and a stiff brush.

Because there can be several generations each year, timing is hard to determine. You’ll most likely need to spray several times during the growing season. Scientists are investigating biological controls, and plant breeders are working toward CMBS-resistant crape myrtles. But at this point, research is ongoing.

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Start the season off right with a few early spring garden chores

Gardening chores come fast and furious once warm weather hits and sometimes you don’t have time to fit it all in. That’s why late winter is a great time to get a few of the spring jobs started. It’s a great way to reduce stress later.

That’s why I asked Daryl Beyers, an instructor at The New York Botanical Garden and author of The New Gardener’s Handbook: Everything You Need to Grow a Beautiful & Bountiful Garden, to share a checklist for getting a jump start on the season.

6 Tasks for your early spring checklist

1. Start with your garden soil

Soil is, quite literally, the foundation upon which every garden grows, and spring is a great time to prepare it for the season or make improvements. If you amend your soil early in the year, the plants will have the nutrients when they need them most. “Most plant growth takes place in those first few months of the season, so add a layer of granular organic fertilizer like Espoma^® Flower-Tone on top of the soil and then protect the soil from erosion with a light layer of mulch to get your small trees, shrubs and herbaceous perennials off to a great start,” he says. In addition, check for bare spots in ornamental beds where mulch has decomposed or shifted and add an inch or two of fresh mulch or compost.

Don’t start spring cleanup too early

But don’t start too early: “If you live in a region with snowy winters, you’ll have to wait for the snow to thaw before working on your beds,” he says. “Soil is fragile, and you can irreversibly compact yours if you stomp around in your beds before they have time to thaw and drain.”

2. Clean up winter damage in the garden

In early spring, even before the snow thaws, Daryl suggests a walk through the garden to inspect trees and shrubs for winter damage, like broken branches from heavy snow or ice or damage to young tree bark from critters like woodchucks or deer. If you find broken limbs, prune them while plants are still dormant.

Always use clean, sharp tools meant for the size of the cut: Hand pruners are best for branches with a diameter no larger than a pencil; employ long-handled loppers for any limbs up to 1½ inches in diameter, and use a handsaw for anything bigger than 3 inches in diameter.

Protecting & dealing with winter damage

• If you find winter damage to a tree’s trunk, Daryl suggests loosely tying burlap around the wound to protect it. Just be sure to check on it monthly and remove it as soon as the wound has healed.

• You might also come across winter burn on evergreens, such as the boxwood above. This is caused by winter winds drying out evergreen foliage. These stems won’t recover so go ahead and prune them off as well.

• By the way, late winter’s dormancy is also the best time to transplant trees and shrubs. So as soon as the ground can be worked, dig and replant them before buds break.

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3. Treat perennials early for common disease

Garden phlox and peonies often have beautiful blooms like those you see in the photos above, but then after they bloom, their foliage succumbs to ugly powdery mildew like this or blackspot. “You can stop these diseases before they start by treating them with a store-bought organic fungicide or make your own by mixing 4 teaspoons of baking soda into a gallon of water with a few drops of dish soap,” Daryl says. Spray plants after they have sprouted several inches from the soil and you should be set for the season.

The trick is to inoculate them when they are young so the fungus never gets a foothold. “Keep in mind that fungal infections can be prevented,” he says, “but not cured. So once you see it, it’s too late.” The only remedy then is to cut off the infected parts and dispose of them. Never put diseased plant parts in your composting pile. It may contaminate your compost and when you spread it on your soil, it could be a problem throughout your garden.

4. Clear the way for spring-blooming bulbs

Flower bulbs like tulips and daffodils are the harbingers of spring, so be sure to go outside in those early weeks of the season and look for yours. Clear away autumn leaves as bulb foliage emerges to encourage strong growth and avoid long, pale weak stems (although if you find those, they will recover).

Consider transplanting bulbs after they bloom

As your bulbs finish flowering, be sure to let the leaves finish too. They will photosynthesize and recharge the bulb for next year. “I try to deadhead the flowers too, so the plant doesn’t put energy into making seeds, but puts everything it can into making a strong bulb for next year,” he adds. “After the flowers fade but before the foliage finishes is a good time to transplant bulbs,” says Daryl. “Simply deadhead them, then dig them out with their leaves intact, and transplant the whole plant or divide it into several clumps and replant those.”

5. Check in on tender plants and bulbs in storage

Savvy gardeners don’t treat dahlias and cannas like annuals. Although these tubers and rhizomes are cold hardy in USDA zones 7 and 8, gardeners in colder zones can store them indoors over the winter and replant in spring. “But you’ll need to check on them as spring approaches to make sure they aren’t starting to sprout too soon,” says Daryl. “If you do see sprouts — they will look pale and ghostly — try to slow them down by keeping them in the dark as best you can.” The pink growth points on these cannas are still just fine to tuck away until you’re ready to plant.

Plant them up!

But if you see sprouts that are more than 4 inches long, you’ll need to plant them right away. Be careful, because at this stage they are very delicate. “If you break the shoots off you will set them back and delay their progress as they expend energy to make new ones,” he adds. In colder regions with late frosts, pot them up and set them in a cold frame or a place where you can protect them, like a sun room or a greenhouse, if you are lucky enough to have one. After all the threat of frost has passed, plant them in prepared beds and you’ll be good to go.

6. Prep your containers for the season

Spring is such a busy time in the garden. Get simple chores done beforehand so you have time for more labor-intensive tasks later on. “Growing lots of plants in pots is one of those things,” he says, “so to get a jump on that spring task, fill pots with potting mix a few weeks before you bring home the plants.

Sanitize containers

If you forgot to clean out last year’s containers, be sure to sanitize them by scrubbing them out with a solution of 1 teaspoon of bleach diluted in a gallon of warm water. Scrub them inside and out with a stiff bristle brush and rinse them a few times before you fill them with fresh mix.

Give your container garden a head start

Get ahead of the game by filling each pot to the rim with dry, fluffy potting mix — and a few scoops of organic fertilizer — then set them outside. Spring rains will saturate and settle the mix, leaving the perfect amount of space for the root balls of your new plants.

Another great idea is to shop for your pots early in the season. Some garden centers put last year’s stock on sale before the new shipment arrives, so you can often find a real deal. If you are growing your container collection, but have to keep to a budget, Daryl suggests simply buying one really nice new pot every year.

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Gardening for pollinators

When it comes to supporting your local ecosystem, providing food and shelter for pollinators is a great way to start. To do the most good, diversity is key! Pollinators need nourishment from the beginning of spring all the way to the end of autumn, so planting perennials, annuals and shrubs together is ideal.

While it may take time to curate a great pollinator habitat, every little bit helps. Adding even one or two food sources for our pollinator friends makes a big difference. The more varieties you add, the more diversity you’ll attract.

Key elements to a pollinator-friendly garden

If you’re ready to make a pollinator-friendly change to your garden, here are a few key things to look for.

1. High-quality food

High nectar and pollen production are key to supporting pollinators. These are the most important factors to look at when it comes to choosing a new addition to the garden.

2. Eye-catching color

Bees and butterflies hunt for food by sight, so look for bright colors such as orange, red, yellow and purple to help them find food sources.

3. The right shape

Different pollinators are looking for different bloom shapes depending on how they visit flowers. Funnel and tube shapes are popular with bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. Other options like bell and composite shapes for bees, clustered or flat-topped options for butterflies and trumpet-shaped flowers for hummingbirds are great choices too.

4. Water access

The pools that form on broadleaf foliage like that of Hydrangea macrophylla are natural and beautiful ways to support thirsty pollinators.

Choose the best location for your pollinator garden

Once you’ve picked your preferred pollinator plants, it’s time to choose a location. Grouping plants together in clumps or mass plantings helps pollinators find food as they wander through the garden. Remember, bees and butterflies rely on eyesight to find food, so placing two or more plants together makes them easier to identify. This also helps birds, butterflies, bees and others conserve energy as they feed.

Choose plants with native roots when gardening for pollinators

Consider using plants with native roots to add the benefits of durability and sustainability. Plants native to your area are well adapted to local pollinator populations, making them easy choices! Proven Winners^® with native roots like Superlophus^™ Sunglow Oenothera, derived from native Texas primrose, and ‘Prairie Princess’ Vernonia, a trending native perennial, are beautiful and durable picks.

And don’t forget classic Proven Winners pollinator favorites like Vermillionaire^®Cuphea, Rockin’^® Playin’ the Blues^®Salvia, Truffula^® Pink Gomphrena, Suncredible^® Yellow Helianthus and the Luscious^®Lantana series.

Learn more

For more advice on creating the perfect pollinator garden, see more resources at Proven Winners: www.provenwinners.com/Gardening_for_Pollinators

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Have you ever frozen in the middle of a routine task and wondered, “Wait, should I be doing this differently?” Unlike commercial organic growers who have to follow specific regulations, home gardeners are free to grow according to their own standards of organic. It’s great to have this flexibility, but at times it’s puzzling to know which practices are organic, which aren’t and which are somewhere in between.

The truth is that organic gardening is about more than avoiding synthetic elements or chemicals that are harmful to the environment. A better goal is to grow in tandem with nature to create a healthy, vibrant growing environment for strong plants, which can then be naturally resilient against pest and disease. With that in mind, take a look at some of these common garden situations and be informed. Figure out which practices work best for your garden and your growing goals, and go with it.

1. White vinegar: It’s organic

Most white vinegars are derived from grain-based alcohol (though sometimes they are synthetically produced). Official label or not, vinegar is an organic product that won’t contribute unwanted chemicals to the garden. But you still need to be careful when you use it as a weed killer.

Household vinegar vs. horticultural vinegar

Household white vinegar contains 5 percent acetic acid and likely won’t slow weeds down much. However, horticultural vinegar has 10 to 20 percent. This potency will knock foliage and stems out, but the roots will probably still survive. It’s also more dangerous for you to use. Gear up with a mask, gloves and goggles to avoid burning skin or damaging eyes. And watch where you spray: Vinegar has no mercy on nearby ornamental plants and might be fatal to frogs upon contact.

More organic ways to deal with weeds

If you’ve only ever tried vinegar and been discouraged, there are other organic options for effectively warding off weeds. The best practices include a little bit of elbow grease: A layer of newspaper followed by a 2-inch layer of mulch goes a long way in suppressing weeds. Grow ground covers in the bare spots of your beds. And simply be ready to frequently stroll your garden with hoe in hand.

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2. Harvested rainwater: Maybe Organic

It’s true that water harvested from rain barrels might be contaminated with chemicals leached from the roof. But recent studies by Rutgers University and the Washington State Department of Ecology reveal that it might not be as harmful as we once thought. Heavy metals and chemicals are minimally present in the water, and generally the levels are safe according to scientific standards. But if the chemicals are still there, should the water be used in an organic garden?

The answer is yes, it’s probably still OK. Metal and chemical levels in harvested rainwater don’t differ much from average tap water (or even the rain!). What’s more, the soil and plants themselves filter out many heavy metals.

Precautionary measures when using rainwater

Regardless, remember these practices to be sure that your rainwater collection is as safe as possible: Get a diverter to avoid collecting the first flush of rain (which usually has a higher concentration of the bad stuff); avoid collecting from copper roofs or wood shake shingles treated with antifungal agents; water the soil, and take care not to splash any leaves (a drip irrigation system would help with this), and wash all your produce before consumption.

If you’re worried about E. coli, which can develop from animal excrement in the water, using an ounce of bleach per 55 gallons will kill the bacteria. Just be sure to wait 24 hours for the chlorine to dissipate. An alternative to using bleach is a UV light disinfecting system that you can purchase specifically for a rain barrel.

If you want to learn more about using harvested rainwater in your garden, especially when considering use in your vegetable garden, here’s a helpful overview from Rutgers State University on rainwater usage.

3. Standard potting mix: Not Organic

Standard potting mix isn’t organic because synthetic fertilizer is commonly added. But there are two easy alternatives to standard commercial potting mix: The first is to simply purchase potting mix labeled as organic. Look for the trusty OMRI stamp, which indicates that the product has been thoroughly tested by organic standards. But even then, you have more control over the contents of the potting mix if you make it yourself — which also happens to be more cost-effective.

The goal is to create a soilless potting mix that is loose and coarse, and drains well but doesn’t dry out easily. Although sphagnum peat moss is a common ingredient in soilless potting mixes, there is some concern that it isn’t a renewable resource or environmentally friendly. Plus, peat moss can often be coated in an anticaking agent that doesn’t qualify as organic. Instead, choose coconut coir, a coconut husk product. It’s environmentally friendly, has a neutral pH (unlike peat moss) and doesn’t dry out quickly. Follow the recipe below to make your own organic potting mix.

How to make your own organic potting mix:

Use an empty wheelbarrow or a large tarp to mix these ingredients together. Don’t fuss too much about being exact. Grab an old nursery pot to scoop the following:

• 4 parts coconut coir — Improves water-retaining capacity
• 4 parts compost — Improves drainage and adds nutrients
• 3 parts perlite — Improves drainage
• Organic granular fertilizer at rate recommended on package

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4. Nonorganic seed: Maybe organic

This is an example of gardening according to your own organic conscience. Using seeds that were harvested from conventionally grown plants does slightly increase the likelihood that there are trace amounts of synthetic chemicals in the seeds. But this trace amount has at most a minor effect on the chemical levels of the plants and produce themselves.

However, some seeds might be treated with chemicals during production. This can create a small risk of chemical exposure to the gardener during planting, though it likely doesn’t have a significant effect on the organic nature of the produce.

Support organic growers

But keep in mind that buying organic seed does support organic farmers, who only use organic practices at all stages of the growing process. If a seed packet is not labeled as organic, check with the company. They might still grow without pesticides and added chemicals but lack the official organically grown label (which can be expensive for growers to procure). GMO is not a factor for home gardeners because mostly only seeds produced for commercial use are genetically modified. (And remember, hybridizing plants is different than genetically modifying them.) Check out a list of our favorite seed sources here.

5. Store-bought compost: Maybe organic

You might have a hard time tracking down the source of each ingredient in store-bought compost, and the materials can vary immensely from one brand to another. If you’re particular about the items you put into your homemade compost (for example, only adding organic food scraps), then finding a commercial compost that you would feel comfortable purchasing is unlikely.

Get quizzical about the labels on bagged compost. Unfortunately, the word organic doesn’t mean much unless it’s accompanied by a certified seal, such as OMRI. If you are buying from a bulk compost provider, don’t be afraid to ask them questions about the source of the compost, the materials included in it and if it has been treated with anything.

Concerns with compost

The biggest concern is that the compost will contain some residual herbicides, such as aminopyralid, which can take a handful of years to break down. Hay and manure often contain this chemical. But you can whip out your lab coat and conduct a test to learn if your compost is possibly contaminated. Fill a seedling tray with a 50-50 mix of potting mix and the compost you want to test. Fill another tray with just the potting mix for the control. Plant green bean seeds, which are especially susceptible to damage, in both trays and provide the same conditions. After the seedlings have at least three sets of leaves, look for curling new growth, a symptom of residual herbicides.

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6. Fertilizers labelled as “organic”: It’s organic

Many organic gardeners aim to build soil that is nutrient-dense enough that it doesn’t require additional fertilizing. Strive to feed the plant with the soil, not with the fertilizer, by regularly amending with organic compost and worm castings and growing cover crops when applicable. This practice takes time. In the short term, organic fertilizers (with OMRI labels) are a good organic solution. Fish fertilizer, such as this one from Neptune’s Harvest, is a popular choice.

7. Raised garden bed materials: Maybe Organic

Raised beds are a fantastic way to control and build a healthy soil, the basis of a thriving organic garden. But some materials used for making raised beds can leach chemicals into the soil. As I mentioned earlier, the soil and plant roots do a good job of filtering out heavy metals and the like. But the metal uptake is a little higher (though still acceptable) for root vegetables, such as beets and potatoes. Thankfully, you can just wash and peel your root crops where most of the heavy metals get stored. The bigger concern is for the people who will come in contact with the raised bed and the chemicals in it every day during garden chores. So to minimize the risk, here are the options to avoid and which to choose instead.

Materials to avoid for raised garden beds

Avoid using any kind of treated lumber, including railroad ties, in the garden. Tires break down with heat and negatively affect the soil within them, so avoid them. Some plastic options are acceptable, but not all. Take caution when repurposing wooden pallets as well, as the wood can be treated with different chemicals.

Best materials for raised garden beds

Choose untreated lumber if you want to build raised beds of wood. Cedar is the most weather-resistant option. If you want to seal your wood, choose raw linseed oil or raw tung oil as organic options. Stone, boulders and galvanized metal are safe materials as well. If you are lining your raised bed with plastic, only use food-grade polyethylene.

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