Tips for designing a beautiful entry garden

Your entry garden has a big job to do—it needs to deliver low-maintenance curb appeal all year, greet guests and show off your own unique style. Follow these design tips to help your garden meet all of these goals.

Widen the path

Even if you have a smaller yard, you want a front walk that looks inviting and is easy for visitors to traverse. A smooth surface that’s at least 4 feet wide can do just that. It leaves plenty of room for two people to walk comfortably side by side, and allows enough space for a wheelchair too.

The original front path and steps to the Washington home in the photo above were very narrow and looked out of place with the wide front door and full-length windows flanking it. So one of the first things that landscape designer Stacie Crooks did was widen both the path and the front stoop for a more balanced visual connection as you and visitors go from the outdoors to inside.

The steps are made of ipe, a tropical hardwood that’s super dense, rot- and insect-resistant and lasts for decades. A generous 12-foot-wide Pennsylvania bluestone path connects the entry to the drive and runs along the front of the house.

Add evergreen foliage for four-season interest

With its four-season appeal, evergreen foliage fills the gap between blooms and provides a sense of permanence. Stacie’s rule of thumb for designing borders is to use two-thirds evergreen foliage to one-third deciduous.

Plenty of plants have evergreen foliage in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes. The texture-rich planting in this zone 8 garden looks good all year thanks to a variety of rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp. and hybrids), ferns and heath (Erica carnea). You could also try low-growing sedges (Carex spp. and hybrids) in green or brown to soften the walkway’s edge or a 4- to 15-foot-tall weeping Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pendula’) to draw you toward the door. Though the stately Indian paper birches (Betula utilis subsp. jacquemontii) near the front door don’t have evergreen foliage, the white bark looks fantastic during the gray days of winter.

Don’t crowd the front entry

The front door isn’t a good spot to let your shrubs and perennials outgrow their space. Overgrown plants can be a tripping hazard or a security risk. Choosing dwarf varieties and shrubs that have tidy habits, such as bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) or spirea (Spiraea japonica), can provide low-maintenance beauty and structure for a front-yard border. Be sure to site plants so once they reach the mature size, the foliage only overlaps the path by a few inches. And while it’s great to have perennials for flowers and added texture, be sure to keep the shorter ones up front, making them easy to see.

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Entry gardens are a great way bring the house and landscape together

Choosing flowers or foliage that repeat your home’s siding or trim color is one simple solution for a unified look. But if your house has distinctive architectural features, you can accentuate those too. The prairie style home above has a full-length glass front door and row of large windows with a great view of the yard. A line of upright feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) and allium (Allium hybrid) along the front border echoes the repetition on the house. The entry garden doesn’t have to be exactly the same as other parts of the yard, but by repeating a few of the elements from the backyard out front, you can tie the two together.

If Vermont garden designer Erica Bowman is designing a Japanese garden in the back, the front yard will have a foliage-heavy plant palette and an ornament, such as a lantern, to give a hint of what’s to come. Or if the homeowner has a loose native planting, she’ll use many of the same plants in front in a bit more structured way and make sure to add a grouping of colorful wildflowers near the door to draw your eye there.

Design quick tip:

A limited color palette is an easy way to get a pulled-together look. Plus, it helps make choosing the plants easier.

Consider the garden from different views

It’s always a good idea to step back and look at the front yard from different perspectives, such as the sidewalk or across the street. This can help you see where you might need to add height or balance out a larger plant that’s already in place. But not every view of the garden has to be taken in from the street side. What you see from the inside matters too. Wisconsin garden designer Mark Dwyer suggests looking out the front door and windows to imagine what you’d like to see there, such as flowers changing through the seasons or an elegantly shaped Japanese maple (Acer palmatum).

Also, take note of plants that might be encroaching on your view out the picture window or any screening that might be needed. With a full-length glass front door or a large window, you might want to site a tree or shrub so passersby can’t easily see inside at night.

Add sensory elements to your front entry

Once you’ve taken in the views from inside, walk through the front door, paying attention to what you’re experiencing. Would you like more color or a soft grass to run your hands over? This isn’t so much about curb appeal as it is about making your entry an experience you can immerse yourself in every time you pass through it.

Add a focal point

A focal point helps with traffic flow, drawing guests along to their destination. The showy red screen door in the photo above shows you right where to go. A special ornament or a few brightly planted containers can work just as well.

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Beautiful & fragrant plants for your front entry garden

Fragrance helps make the path to your front door a journey to enjoy. Whether you want to fill containers or edge a border, the plants below will do the trick!

Reseeding plants is an easy way to get repetition in the garden

See the repeating pools of blue flowers along the spring pathway in the photo above? This repetition has mostly happened naturally as annuals and perennials reseed around the structural trees and shrubs in Ted and Nadine Staunton's Vancouver garden: “I tend to leave most of them unless they’re in the way or impeding another plant. Because it’s such a large garden I don’t have time to manicure every spot.”

Pull volunteers you don’t want

Nadine doesn’t do much deadheading but instead pulls the volunteers that she doesn’t need. She has, however, learned the hard way not to compost plants that have gone to seed, after an unfortunate incident with forget-me-nots. This hasn’t dampened her enthusiasm for these beautiful clouds of blue spring flowers though. Learn more about them and more of her favorite reseeders below.

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8 Reseeding plants to fill spaces in the garden

When you have a large property, you need large numbers of plants to fill it up. Reseeders are a good solution if you don’t mind doing some “editing” of unwanted plants every year. Here are a few of Nadine’s favorite species that spread quickly and make a big impact once established. 

1. Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Clouds of chartreuse blooms in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 10 to 18 in. tall, 18 to 30 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

2. Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Clusters of three-petaled purple, pink or white flowers in late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

3. Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Tiny sky-blue flowers in late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 6 to 9 in. tall, 6 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

4. Serbian bellflower (Campanula poscharskyana)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Blue star-shaped flowers in spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7

5. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp. and hybrids)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Golden yellow, daisy-shaped flowers with black centers from midsummer through fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

6. Wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Nodding two-tone red and yellow flowers in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

7. Bachelor’s button (Centaurea cyanus)

Type: Annual
Blooms: Cornflower blue flowers in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun
Size: 24 to 30 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide

8. Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica)

Type: Bulb
Blooms: Pendulous lavender flowers in spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall, 3 to 6 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

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Discover a garden oasis in British Columbia

Perched on a hill, Nadine and Ted Staunton’s home and back deck offer a perfect view. Not only do they look over their own garden, but they can also see the woods at the edge of their property, the nearby Fraser River and even the distant Coast Mountains. Sometimes they hear coyotes yipping, watch bald eagles soaring overhead and catch glimpses of black bears lumbering through the trees.

Taming the slope: 20-year evolution of a Zone 8 garden

In a little more than 20 years, they’ve created an engaging landscape on their USDA zone 8, sloping Surrey, British Columbia, backyard. It wasn’t easy to accomplish, but now stone paths meander through terraces of trees, shrubs and perennial flowers interspersed with mossy stones and wooden arbors, pergolas and even a custom-built chapel tucked into the woods. Let’s take a tour of this lovely garden and learn some of the tips that the Stauntons have gathered while establishing it.

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The garden’s beginning

When Nadine and Ted were ready to build a home on the L-shaped 1-acre lot in 1989, they had to use a bulldozer to clear scrub alder (Alnus spp.) and maple (Acer spp.) trees that had been allowed to take over.

A house on a hill has the benefit of great views and cooling breezes, but a property with a steep slope also presents challenges. For the first several years that they lived there, they tried to grow grass on the slope, but it was difficult to maintain, as you can imagine. And Nadine says, “You can’t play croquet on a sloping lawn.”

A labor of love

Furthermore, a ravine runs along the side and across the back of the property, and had apparently been a dumping site for many years: It was filled with garbage, including an old iron bathtub and a car chassis. Nadine says, “People used to just tip things over the edge instead of taking them to the dump.” Ted and Nadine had their work cut out for them if they wanted to enjoy, instead of simply tolerate or manage, their backyard.

Creating terraces to manage the slope

Finally, Ted was tired of sliding off the tractor seat while doing lawn maintenance, so he decided to use terracing to level off the steepest area close to the house. He began by creating a few beds held in by landscape timbers, which was the common method at that time. Nadine says, “When we started, Ted laid out the outline of the flower bed with a garden hose, and I thought, ‘That’s far too big. I’ll never be able to look after it.’ But since then it’s grown exponentially!”

Over the years, the timbers deteriorated, and when they required replacing, Ted realized that he and Nadine already had plenty of raw materials in the stone that they regularly unearthed in the soil and at the bottom of the ravine. So he rebuilt the walls, and eventually made the stairs in the backyard.

Stone walls, pathways and more

Those first stone walls near the house launched a decades-long project of more pathways, staircases and walls that wind their way through densely planted beds and trees, and now there are only a few small areas of lawn left. Ted, a graphic artist by profession, has an affinity for curving lines and has created a layout that feels intimate yet celebrates expansive views. Keep reading to learn more about the Stauntons’ adventures in stonework.

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Working with stone in the garden

Once he gained some stone-working skills, there seemed no end to the inspiration (and supply!). Ted says, “I kept getting annoyed walking sideways on the property, so I’d try flattening this area, and then another. And pathways just kept presenting themselves.”

Ted’s tips for moving stone

Ted has hauled thousands of stones, and with a clicker keeps track of every one that he brings from the ravine that’s larger than a loaf of bread. So far, the number is higher than 3,000. For smaller stones, he walks the wheelbarrow down the switchback paths he built into the side of the ravine, fills it and pulls it backward to the top, bumping it along slowly.

A come-along winch is a game-changer

He employs the laws of physics and simple tools to lift and place the ones too large to carry. A come-along winch has been an invaluable resource: He’s able to chain one end of the cable to a tree and the other to the large rock to be moved, then ratchets the lever to draw the stone up the hill. Then he moves farther up the hill, hooks it up to another tree and continues. Still not an easy proposition!

An affinity for stone

The name Staunton has its origins in Old English, and was given to someone who lived near stony ground. It seems fitting as Ted has developed a keen eye not only for the best way to move each rock but also how to display and honor it. When he sees a stone with unusual characteristics, such as veining, speckling or a blue color, he places it next to a path where it’ll be seen. And every specimen’s unique shape inspires how it’s placed or how the path is built.

He likens building a wall or path to putting a puzzle together, considering color, texture and the different faces. See how perfectly the combination of different sizes and shapes of stones in the photo above fit together? Nadine says, “If I accidentally dislodge one, I have to get him to put it back,” because it’s such a precise art.

Moss: a shady benefit

Moss grows happily here, and the soft spongy pathway and beautiful stone faces are typical in this shady north-facing slope. However, they don’t mind its vigorous growth when in the lawn, because it remains green even when the turf turns brown.

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Unique hardscaping

Stonework isn’t the only hardscaping handiwork on display in this garden. Arbors, a pergola, a shed, a greenhouse and the miniature Gothic-inspired chapel provide visual interest and utility. Placement and construction are all done with a view of the garden in mind. Picture windows in the shed face the back of the property and look over the hillside. And their pergola is in the perfect spot to catch a cooling breeze on a hot summer day.

An affinity for upcycling

The couple repurposes building materials whenever they can for these structures. For example, Ted utilized rough-sawn telephone pole offcuts to make the chapel’s siding and hand-split roofing shakes for the shed and chapel from a 60-foot cedar tree that had fallen in the ravine and needed to be removed. He worked on the shakes for about six months, and still has a stash ready for another project.

Ted added the cupola on the shed a couple of years ago after he found a stained glass window that he thought deserved to be displayed prominently. After designing the cupola, he and their son modified the shed roof to accommodate the new feature.

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Chapel getaway

Nadine and Ted knew that they’d like to nestle a small building into this semicircle of trees, and the tight quarters inspired this Gothic-style chapel. With skills he learned along the way and some coaching from his father-in-law, Ted has built all manner of projects. At 10 by 12 feet, the chapel is just the right size for a small table and chairs, where the grandkids like to play in warmer months. Ted says, “It’s enough for a small congregation: You can get about six people in there. But we do have a choir loft!”

The plant palette

Because there aren’t many full-sun spots on this north-facing slope, Nadine has chosen to grow mostly flowering plants in the garden, although she has found a few pockets in the front yard to grow her favorite vegetables.

Creating year-round garden interest

When choosing plants, her goal is to have interest throughout the year. Nadine says, “It’s been an experiment over the years to find which plants do well here. I move things around quite a bit until I find a spot where they’re happy.”

From November through March, fragrant ‘Pink Dawn’ viburnum (Viburnum x bodnantense) in the photo above blooms alongside an early round of witchhazels (Hamamelis spp. and hybrids) and hellebores (Helleborus spp. and hybrids), followed by daffodils (Narcissus spp. and hybrids), snowdrops (Galanthus spp. and hybrids) and crocuses (Crocus spp. and hybrids) in February. Nadine and Ted are big fans of ‘Pink Dawn’ because of its long bloom time, sweet scent and its attractiveness to the Anna’s hummingbirds that remain all winter in their garden.

Add seasonal show-offs

By the middle of spring the rhododendron (Rhododendron spp. and hybrids), euphorbias (Euphorbia spp. and hybrids) and pasque flower have joined the party. Later, summer-blooming perennials such as coreopsis (Coreopsis spp. and hybrids) and black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia spp. and hybrids) in the photo above start their show, and by fall, the dahlias (Dahlia hybrids) are in their glory.

Finding drought-tolerant plants to deal with weather changes

With less rain in recent summers, the Stauntons have started taking note of which plants are most drought tolerant. Some standouts include hostas (Hosta spp. and hybrids) and rhododendrons, which put on such a beautiful show in spring. So when they’re shopping the nursery sales in fall, their favorite time for bargain plants, they’re including drought tolerance on their list of must-have characteristics. Ted chops up the plentiful leaves that fall on the property, and the couple mulches with them to help retain soil moisture as well.

Get easy repetition with reseeding plants

Repeating pools of blue flowers along the pathways has mostly happened naturally as annuals and perennials reseed around the structural trees and shrubs. Nadine says: “I tend to leave most of them unless they’re in the way or impeding another plant. Because it’s such a large garden I don’t have time to manicure every spot.” Learn more about her favorite reseeding plants here!

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Secrets to successful raised garden beds

The first time that New Jersey’s Resh Gala tried to grow tomatoes, she didn’t get a single edible fruit, thanks to blossom end rot and other struggles. But she was determined to learn from her failure. The next year, she had more encouraging results in her small raised bed and decided to keep growing. Since then, she’s learned that not everything will be perfect: Whether it’s a new pest infestation, bad weather or something else, every year is different.

But when one crop struggles, another one usually thrives. This determination to keep trying new things and continue gardening through difficulties lead to Resh being named 2020 Gardener of the Year by Burpee Home Gardens. Now she’s launched a business, Hundred Tomatoes LLC, to help other aspiring gardeners achieve their hoped-for harvests, and written the book Vegetable Gardening Made Easy. Her specialty is intensively planting herbs, flowers and vegetables together in raised beds that are both visually striking and productive.

Creating a beautiful and bountiful garden

Resh says, “Most home gardeners seek a beautiful garden that takes minimal time and effort to thrive.” That’s why she recommends polyculture gardening — growing several types of plants together in the same space. It’s a very different look than the traditional rowed-out vegetable garden.

This planting style mimics nature, reducing pest problems while attracting pollinators and beneficial insects in a healthy backyard ecosystem. Want to know her secrets to productive raised garden beds? Learn some of her favorite plant combinations below, and keep reading for her tips on choosing the best materials, planting medium and more.

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Beneficial companion planting ideas for raised garden beds

Resh says, “Polyculture confuses pests. I think of it as natural pest control for the garden.” Some plants repel insects and others act as trap crops, luring the pests away from susceptible plants. She often plants a border of herbs around her raised beds, using it as the first line of defense against insects. For example, the chives help repel pests from the strawberries and lettuce. The annual flower pot marigold acts as a trap crop: It attracts aphids, which remain on the sticky calendula foliage and leave peppers and tomatoes alone. Once you notice several insects trapped in the plant, it’s time to pull and dispose of it.

Resh’s favorite beneficial plant pairings:

• Cucumber + dill + nasturtiums
• Tomatoes + basil + marigolds
• Broccoli + chives + sweet alyssum
• Eggplant + sage + pot marigolds
• Carrots + thyme + peas

Benefits of raised garden beds

Raised beds have many benefits if you’re establishing a new vegetable garden:

Raised beds are easy to maintain

With clearly defined edges, raised beds help you manage your garden layout and reduce weed creep. They also make tasks like watering, harvesting and rotating crops easier to plan and execute because you can stack them as high as you’d like, to reduce back and knee strain.

Raised beds can go almost anywhere

Raised beds make the most of small or awkward areas—tuck them into tight corners, patios, or even rooftops. They’re completely customizable.

Allows for soil quality control

The foundation of a good garden is healthy soil. Transforming poor soil into a healthy, plant-ready state can take years — it’s not as simple as tossing a bag of compost or manure on top. But raised beds allow you to start growing right away and with the confidence that you’ll get a good harvest if the soil in the ground is nutrient-poor, too dry, too soggy or heavy clay, as Resh’s was.

Once a bed is established, compost is the secret sauce for healthy plants. Resh makes her own in a compost tumbler with kitchen scraps and pine pellets, and every fall she top-dresses beds with 3 to 4 inches of compost. When plants are starting to produce and set fruit, she sidedresses with more. If you don’t have access to this much compost, she recommends feeding your garden earthworm castings or compost purchased in bulk.

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Resh’s perfect planting medium for raised garden beds

Top 25% of raised bed:

• High-quality raised bed mix. (Resh likes the Coast of Maine brand.)

Bottom 75% of raised bed:

• 30% topsoil
• 30% compost
• 10% vermiculite for water retention
• 5% perlite to help with drainage

How to Calculate Raised Bed Materials

Length x Width x Height = Total volumeFor example, a 4x8x1 bed = 32 cubic feet of material

Using Resh’s suggested ratios above, this would translate to:

• 8 cubic feet of raised bed mix (25%)
• 9.6 cubic feet of topsoil (30%)
• 9.6 cubic feet of compost (30%)
• 3.2 cubic feet of vermiculite (10%)
• 1.6 cubic feet of perlite (5%)

Note: For several beds, it may be most cost-effective to order in bulk, measured in cubic yards. Divide cubic feet by 27 to determine cubic yards.

Utilize plant supports to maximize raised garden bed space

Support structures help a gardener get the most out of an intensively planted small space. Here’s how Resh matches the structure to the purpose:

Garden arches

Use these for vining beans, gourds, melons, squash and even cherry tomatoes. You may need to secure heavy fruit with netting or old stockings to keep them from breaking off. Resh likes to extend an arch between two beds.

Obelisks

These are perfect for plants whose foliage needs to be corralled, such as sweet peas, tomatoes, bush cucumbers, peas and even pole beans.

Fence panels

You can harvest beans, cucumbers and peas from both sides of these, and they’re easy to make with a cattle panel and wooden posts.

Teepees

Tie four garden stakes together with twine to create an easy structure for pole beans or peas. If plants need a little help climbing, make layers by wrapping twine at different heights.

Plant cages

Traditional tomato cages are too small for tomatoes, but they work well to corral medium-sized bushy plants, such as eggplants and peppers.

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Best materials for raised garden beds

Resh builds each bed with 2×6 untreated red cedar or Douglas fir boards and attaches a 4-inch-wide trim piece to the top edge of every bed. This makes it comfortable to rest a basket or sit on.

She recommends a height of 12 to 24 inches. The taller a bed, the less bending you’ll have to do to take care of it, but taller beds also require more amendments and soil, increasing the cost up front. Resh suggests beds no larger than 4×8 feet for structural integrity and ease of access.

Modify raised garden beds for pest management

If deer and rabbit damage is a concern, these 24-inch-tall hinged chicken wire cages will keep them out. Ready to work in the garden? Unhook, slide a barrel bolt open and flip the side down.

To keep digging pests out, Resh staples ¼-inch hardware cloth to the bottom of each bed. Line the inside with landscape fabric or cardboard before filling with soil to help the wood last longer.

Install irrigation systems to make watering easier

Install 1⁄2-inch drip irrigation tubing with emitters spaced 6 inches apart to provide even coverage for both large and small plants in a garden with several beds, where watering becomes more of a chore.

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Classic European Garden Design Techniques

When you visit the expansive and meticulously maintained spaces of Europe’s most famous gardens, it might feel worlds away from a modern-day North American backyard. The elaborate structures and large-scale designs seem like grandiose remnants of a bygone era. However, there are plenty of ways to incorporate a touch of that old-world elegance into modern landscapes. Here are five features that can easily be reimagined for just about any outdoor space to add a dash of formality or a hint of romance.

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5 European garden design ideas that stand the test of time

1. Get creative with parterre and topiary

Maybe intricately patterned formal hedges, or parterres, are the first design element that comes to mind when you imagine European gardens. Or do you think of stately topiary shrubs in dramatic shapes? The parterre originated in 16th-century France during the Renaissance as a symbol of wealth. And ancient Romans reportedly practiced topiary as an art form.

The parterre at Ireland’s Bantry House, above, is particularly effective because it can be viewed from above in the house or on the adjacent terraced hillside. While you may not have the space to create an intricate pattern of symmetrical beds like this, everyone has room to display some artful pruning. A couple of potted boxwood spirals can make any entryway a little statelier, and there is no rule that privacy hedges need to be a straight green wall — unless your HOA says otherwise.

To shape shrubs, it’s generally best to start with young plants. In order to prevent stress or dieback, avoid removing more than one-third of the plant’s foliage at a time. Good candidates for topiary and parterre include boxwood (Buxus spp. and hybrids), yew (Taxus spp. and hybrids), and Japanese holly (Ilex crenata). Boxwoods typically need trimming two to three times per year to hold crisp lines, while slower-growing yews can be shaped once annually.

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2. Soften garden structures with climbing plants

Throughout history, climbing plants have been used to blur the boundaries between architecture and nature — seen most famously in the rose-covered arches at Monet’s Garden in Giverny, France, above. Retaining walls, fences, arches, arbors and pergolas are all perfect places to add plants that will climb and cascade over the surface.

3. Densely plant double borders for romantic abundance

Double borders — two parallel garden beds separated by a central path — became a defining feature of English estate gardens during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, exemplified by the broad, flower-filled walks at estates like Hidcote or Powerscourt Estate, above. The design allows gardeners to frame a walkway with color and texture on both sides, creating a sense of total immersion while encouraging visitors to wander deeper into the landscape.

To achieve a successful double border, think in layers. Place structural plants (such as boxwoods or small ornamental trees) at the back of the beds, then fill in the middle ground with medium-sized perennials, before capping it all off with frothy ground covers along the front. Long-blooming perennials like catmint (Nepeta spp. and hybrids) and geraniums (Geranium spp. and hybrids) are good candidates for a border that should be filled with constant color. Annuals that tend to reseed, such as poppies (Papaver somniferum) or love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena), are also great for infusing serendipitous touches throughout the beds.

4. Use water to invoke a timeless elegance in your garden design

Almost every garden style around the world incorporates the element of water in one way or another. The grand fountains of Versailles, for example, illustrate the power that water features have in a garden, drawing in visitors from afar to take a closer look. In Italy, the Renaissance ushered in elaborate tiered fountains and grottoes, while Islamic and Moorish gardens relied on smaller ponds to convey tranquility. A simple reflecting pool — like those found in traditional Mediterranean courtyards — can provide a serene focal point that mirrors the sky and surrounding foliage.

Decide the water feature’s purpose

Before adding a water element to your garden, start by defining what you want it to achieve. Do you want a focal point and to perhaps mask noise pollution? A feature that has moving water will add ambient sound and attention-grabbing movement to a space. Or, if you are looking to infuse a sense of reflection and calm, then the still water found within a pool, like this beauty in June Blake’s Garden in Ireland above, is a better option.

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5. Add rustic flair with stonework and garden sculptures

Finally, here’s a garden feature that will instantly give your space a more vintage feel: stonework. From medieval staddle stones once used to elevate granaries (like those at Knockrose in County Dublin, above) to the statuary and carved walls of classical European estates, stone features lend history and permanence to any setting.

Not everyone will have access to architectural salvage materials. But many newer stone and concrete sculptures will look authentically aged after just a few years of exposure to the elements. Stone walls, which provide function as well as some old-world charm, are perhaps one of the most straightforward ways to infuse a sense of age into a landscape.

You might also consider selecting stone pavers with softer edges and more organic shapes for your paths or patio and allowing ground covers to grow in the spaces between for a romantic feel. If natural stone isn’t in the budget, concrete and faux stone can have a similar effect when the same principles of soft edges and organic forms are applied. Cover and surround your new hardscaping with plants, and who’s to say that it isn’t an ancient relic that’s graced your garden for centuries?

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The Giving Garden

Walk through Sue and Bob Olson’s Mankato, Minnesota, garden, and you’ll find just as many stories as you’ll find plants. Connections to other people are the heart of this ½-acre garden. For example, Sue says, “My brother built this shed for me about 15 years ago. I love it because it’s his handiwork.” Nearly every plant and ornament here carries a memory or a tie to a friend, family member or experience. This is why we chose the Olsons as this year’s Reader Garden Award grand prize winners. Congratulations to this creative gardening couple! Now let’s take a tour and hear their stories. Watch the Talk & Tour video above to get a feel for this impressive garden from our visit in August.

Meet This Year’s Reader Garden Award Runners-Up!

Lonna Engel's Painted Leaf Hosta Garden in Williamsport, PA
Becky Short from Macungie, PA
Enter Your Garden for a Chance to Win Next Year!

How the garden began

When Sue and Bob moved to Mankato and purchased this zone 5 property 26 years ago, the backyard was all lawn except for a perennial-filled island bed in need of renovation. Sue had grown up in a family of gardeners and always kept a garden as an adult. So she knew that it was better to watch the existing beds for a season to get to know the property before she started executing all of her backyard dreams.

When they did dig into the perennial bed project, they found Siberian iris (Iris sibirica), garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), daylilies (Hemerocallis spp. and hybrids), purple coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea) and many other Midwestern stalwarts. Sue says, “I kept as much as I could but cleaned that bed up and spread the plants around.”

Thanks to Jung Seed for providing a $500 gift card to our grand prize winner!

An ever-evolving garden

They raised their children in this house and now welcome grandchildren to visit. Once she had more time to garden, Sue really ramped up the outdoor projects, and every spring she and Bob seem to add another element to the backyard. (The latest project is a series of raised beds filled with cut flowers at the back of the garden.) You can see in the overhead view that the plantings extend around the backyard’s perimeter and surround the house, incorporating the 8×12-foot garden shed as well as several raised vegetable and flower beds. Over time, the couple has learned how to protect plantings from deer that live in the wooded area at the back of the property and how to keep a garden colorful from spring through fall.

A welcoming space

The property slopes down from front to back: The second-story floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking their patio creates almost a bird’s-eye view of the backyard from the couple’s living room. It’s a year-round show. In warmer weather, they enjoy eating alfresco on the lower patio, which has two dining sets that accommodate their growing family. Up a few steps, visitors can retire to a comfortable lounge area complete with the wood-burning fireplace above, perfect for cool evenings in spring and fall.

As all gardens do, this one has evolved. In the early years here, the couple dined on an upper-level deck and had a hot tub on the nearby patio. Over time, habits and space usage changed. When entertaining became a bigger priority, they removed the hot tub, renovated that patio and added the fireplace. Then Sue and Bob built a second patio large enough to comfortably accommodate a group.

Of course the Olsons enjoy entertaining in their backyard, but this isn’t the only way they create memories and connect with people in the garden. Experiences with friends and family have contributed to the garden’s décor and design as well.

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Work + Play

The Olsons don’t only host guests on their patios for leisure time. Every spring, family and friends gather with their wheelbarrows for a mulch party to help transport 42 cubic yards of shredded wood mulch from a single pile in the driveway to several smaller ones around the backyard. Sue provides the food and drinks, and Bob spends the next 10 days spreading the mulch throughout the beds.

A Garden Full of Mementos & Memories

Beds and borders throughout this backyard are filled with reminders of loved ones and different experiences. Several years ago Bob drove three hours with his car’s hatchback open to bring home the pew in the photo above from his childhood church. (On this trip he learned that if he turned the music volume high enough, he could drown out the dinging trunk alarm!) Sue painted a favorite quote on it and sealed it with Gronomics^™ Cedar Garden Bed Oil to protect it.

She says, “We used to carry every ornament and pot indoors every fall. But we got to the point that we couldn’t do that anymore.” She felt emboldened to leave glazed containers outdoors when she saw that a nearby nursery left their stock out in winter. Now the couple empties the pots, turns them upside down and leaves them where they stand. Sue says that they haven’t lost one to winter damage yet.

Custom mosaic art

This colorful mosaic is made on window frames that Sue saved from Bob’s grandmother’s house. She has a few of these “stained glass” windows positioned throughout the garden and plans to store them indoors in winter.

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Reflections of Life in the Garden

Viking-themed garden bed

When they establish a new garden bed, the couple often adds meaningful mementos. For example, Bob finally talked Sue into purchasing a football-shaped stepping stone a few years ago with the agreement that he would maintain the part of the garden where it was displayed. He leaned into his love for the Minnesota Vikings NFL team, and planted a Velvet Viking^™ Japanese maple among purple and gold plants, including the annual angelonias (Angelonia angustifolia) planted in a “V” shape in the photo above. He even planted a ‘Cheesehead’ potentilla (Potentilla fruticosa) nearby as a nod to the classic Vikings-Packers rivalry.

A special butterfly garden

Ten years ago, Sue was diagnosed with breast cancer in April. She says, “I knew what I was faced with, but I didn’t want to let my gardens go. So I threw myself into the yard that spring.” As she was working the night before treatments began, a butterfly landed on her again and again. She says, “In that moment, I knew everything would be OK.” She later added some butterfly ornaments in the area where she was working to remind her of the peace the butterfly brought her that day.

Family memories

And when Sue’s dad passed away, they planted the river birch (Betula nigra) above in his memory and added owl statuary beneath it. Sue says, “We always said Dad was the wise owl of the family.”

Plants Connect People

Gardening is a family pastime. In fact, many members of Sue’s extended family grow pieces of the same bearded iris (Iris hybrids), peony (Paeonia lactiflora) and clematis (Clematis spp. and hybrids) passed down from her great-grandparents’ garden. And her dad “kept gardening until he absolutely couldn’t do it anymore. Then he loved to come here and give me ideas.”

Sharing the plant love

Receiving and sharing divisions has been a key part of the garden’s success. Filling these large beds wouldn’t have happened as quickly without pass-along plants from other gardeners. Not only is this a budget-friendly way to acquire plants, it’s also a good way to find those that you know will thrive. If they’re already doing well in a neighbor’s garden, you know they’ll survive your particular climate’s challenges. (Just do a bit of research before accepting divisions. Sometimes well-meaning friends share plants that are a little too aggressive!)

Friends have passed along speedwell (Veronica hybrid), more bearded iris, tall sedum (Hylotelephium spp. and hybrids) and garden mums (Chrysanthemum spp. and hybrids). They even have a division of the old-fashioned bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) that Bob’s mother received from a friend when he was born.

Annual spring plant division

Every spring, Bob and Sue grab their spades and look for perennials that are spreading too far or are overcrowded and need rejuvenation. Some go into new beds on their own property, but they plant the rest into recycled nursery pots in preparation for a giveaway. At this annual spring event, they set 250 or more potted plants onto the driveway and put out a call to gardeners in their neighborhood and in local social media groups, offering free plants.

Sue says, “We love the idea of our passion being shared and nurtured, and we hope that some of it will be paid forward.” It’s a fun way to connect with old friends and make new ones (and a good way to recycle those ubiquitous plastic nursery pots, which often make their way back to the Olsons to be refilled another year!).

Lasting garden labels

To keep track of plants for herself and visitors in this ever-expanding garden, Sue inserts the Wren stainless steel plant markers you see above near most perennials. She writes the plant name on the front of the tag and important details, such as its size, who gave it to her and the year it was last divided, on the back with a paint pen.

The Keys to Long-Lasting Color

Because the view of the backyard is so prominent from inside the house, it’s important that it has year-round interest. Sue has achieved this by mixing hardscaping, ornaments and a variety of different types of plants. You can see the effect in the photo above.

An artist’s perspective in the garden

In many gardens, even with careful planning, there are lulls between bloom times throughout the growing season. But not here. Sue says, “I’m always paying attention to where I need more color. Will this spot need more purple when this plant fades? Do I need more yellow here?” The flower show begins with daffodils (Narcissus spp. and hybrids), grape hyacinths (Muscari armeniacum), peonies and Siberian irises in spring, and ends with garden mums and New England asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) in late fall.

Better with begonias

Ribbons and splashes of annual begonias (Begonia hybrids) like those in the photo above knit the garden together. Sue loves them because they’re so easy to grow, “and they give you a lot of wow factor!” She buys several flats and pots of varieties in the Dragon Wing^® and Big^® series (especially those with bronze leaves) every spring. And she also tries several new varieties every year.

Multiplying begonias

She plants begonias in containers and in clusters along border edges, and throughout the growing season, she pinches back new plants regularly to encourage branching and more flowers. Instead of tossing the cutoff stems into the compost pile, she strips off the lower leaves, dips the ends in rooting hormone and plants each cutting in the soil wherever she sees a hole. The photo above shows what a new cutting looks like — spindly at first, but with some extra water and a bit of time, it will grow. By the end of the summer, she has a garden full of begonias.

Before the first frost, she cuts some plants back, pots them up and sets the pots on a shelf in the basement with no lights. They lie dormant until late winter, when she starts to water regularly. Sue says, “You’d swear that they’re deader than dead, but they come back every year.” Come spring, she begins taking cuttings again so she has plenty of little begonias to jump-start the year.

Meet Our Previous Reader Garden Award Winners

• Multiseason Beauty With Perennials & Flowering Trees
  
• Grand Garden Experiment
  
• Charming Southern Backyard Garden
  
• Beautiful Hillside Garden
  
• Urban Garden Retreat
  

Pest Patrol in the Garden

A few years ago, Sue and Bob installed a 6-foot-tall aluminum fence around the perimeter of the backyard to keep deer out of the garden. But like many of us, they still struggled with rabbit damage. Over the years, they’ve sprayed vulnerable plants with Liquid Fence^® Deer and Rabbit Repellent in spring and caged shrubs in winter to deter nibbling critters. But as the garden grew, these extra chores became too tedious to manage.

Backyard protection

Eventually they discovered that planting vegetables and cut flowers in 17- to 32-inch-tall Vego Metal Raised Garden Beds made them difficult for bunnies to access. This year, Bob purchased 700 feet of 2-foot-high fencing and used plastic ties to secure it to the bottom of the fence, extending to soil level. So far, it’s kept rabbits from entering the garden. He knows that he’ll have to patrol regularly to check for vulnerable spots and secure loose areas in the fence. Since the backyard is the only fenced part of the property, they’re still spraying and caging the unprotected front yard plants.

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“Count the bunnies”

Sue acknowledges that even though the rabbits frustrate her, she thinks they’re cute and has a large tongue-in-cheek collection of rabbit ornaments scattered throughout the beds (check out a few examples below). “Count the bunnies” is a fun game to play with grandchildren. Congratulations to Sue and Bob for earning the Reader Garden Award title this year. We’re so glad they shared it with us!

Garden Gate readers have plenty of clever ideas for pumpkins. Discover tips for extending the life of these fall favorites, styling them in seasonal displays and giving them new purpose in the garden once the holidays are over.

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Make your pumpkins last longer in fall

Extend the life of your fall pumpkins with this easy tip! Instead of placing them directly on the porch or deck, Rachelle sets each one on a container platform or plant caddy to improve airflow and prevent moisture buildup. This helps pumpkins last well past Halloween, and even if they do start to get soft, the porch or deck won’t be stained or damaged. See how it's done in the quick video above.

Tip submitted by Rachelle Thornburgh, WA

Create a pest trap with pumpkins

Here’s a festive solution to your slug problem: Get a pumpkin! Donna cuts the top off of a pumpkin and cleans out the seeds and pulp. She places it in her hosta bed and lets it collect slugs. She then kills them with soapy water and tosses them in with her yard waste. You can return the pumpkin to the bed and continue to dispose of the slugs as needed. The best part is that it looks more like a decoration than it does a pest trap!

Tip submitted by Donna Hartman, IA

Pop in a Pumpkin!

Create a pumpkin topiary

To make her pumpkin topiary, Rachel holds “auditions” to see which ones stack best. Stabilizing the stack with rods would just cause the pumpkin to rot. They sit on a 20-inch pizza pan covered with artificial leaves.

Use pumpkins as an accent

Have a hole in a planting that’s otherwise still going strong, or want to accent a fall container? Add pumpkins! Rachel gets creative and saves money by planting in upcycled items found around the yard or at flea markets. The old wheelbarrow above, overflowing with wing begonias, is a favorite find turned planter that she loves to accent with a pile of pumpkins in autumn.

Garden design by Rachel Light, OH

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A garden doesn’t have to be filled with bright colors to be beautiful. Some of the most captivating landscapes embrace the darker side of the plant world. A midnight garden, or what some might call a gothic-style garden, is designed around plants with moody hues that evoke drama and mystery. While no flower is truly black, many appear nearly so, with deep tones that shift depending on the light — richer and darker in shade, more burgundy or purple in full sun.

Shadowy allies in a gothic garden

Even the darkest colored blooms and foliage need the right company to truly shine in the garden. Think of it as setting the stage — the darker plants create the drama, while their companions provide the perfect lighting. Silvery foliage, such as that of ‘Jack Frost’ brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla) and lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina), add contrast and make deep colors stand out. Lush green backdrops of ferns or hostas add depth and prevent darker plants from receding into the background. For extra dimension, add white and pale-hued flowers to brighten the space and draw the eye in your garden design.

Set the mood with garden accents to create contrast with black plants

A midnight garden is less about the time of day and more about the atmosphere it creates — mysterious, elegant and a little bit moody. While you’ll most likely admire these dark, dramatic blooms in the daylight, you can carry their magic into the evening with soft, subtle lighting, like solar lights tucked along a path or beside inky foliage. Add a few reflective touches, such as gazing balls or mirrors, to catch ambient light and deepen the mood. Read on to discover some of the most captivating plants to help set the scene.

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Japanese cobra lily (Arisaema sikokianum)

Like something from a forgotten woodland tale, Japanese cobra lily emerges in early spring, its unusual hooded bloom rising above silver-splashed, five-lobed leaves. A dramatic relative of Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum), it features an 8-inch-long hooded bract, or spathe, surrounding a snowy white clublike spadix. The hood sports purple, green and white striping outside and white on the inside. As flowers fade, a dense cone of vivid red berries develops in mid- to late summer, lingering for weeks after the foliage has withered away.

Growing tips

Japanese cobra lily thrives in moist, humusy soil, making it a natural fit near ponds, streams or shaded garden beds where the conditions remain consistently damp. A shady planting site is essential to prevent leaf scorch, as too much sun can damage its delicate foliage. Plant Japanese cobra lily in minimally disturbed areas of the garden, where fallen leaves and dappled light provide the perfect setting for its ghostly form. Pair it with perennials that fill out later in the season after the cobra lily’s flower is gone.

Plants are slow to propagate, requiring patience when grown from seed — it may be three to five years before the first blooms appear. Japanese cobra lily rarely produces offsets, but when it does, they can be carefully divided in fall or early spring to encourage new growth.

Type: Perennial; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Dark purple to brown hooded spathe with green-and-white striping surrounds a snowy white spadix above green foliage in midspring 
Light: Part to full shade 
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8 

‘Green Wizard’ coneflower (Rudbeckia occidentalis)

With a name like ‘Green Wizard’, this unique coneflower is sure to cast a spell on your garden. Unlike traditional coneflowers, this variety skips the bright yellow petals and instead boasts green sepals that frame a nearly black central cone. Its bold form stands out in beds, borders or cottage gardens, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies to the tiny yellow flowers.

Growing tips

The 6- to 9-inch cones last long after the tiny yellow flowers have faded. Deadhead to encourage more blooms and to prevent self-seeding. At season’s end, you can cut plants back to the crown and mulch with straw to protect them through winter. Or leave the cones standing for interest and as a food source for birds. To get first-year flowers, start seeds indoors eight weeks before the last frost.

Type: Perennial; North American native 
Blooms: Purple to black central cone surrounded by tiny yellow flowers and green sepals in summer 
Light: Full sun 
Soil: Average, well-drained
Size: 36 to 60 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Swan’ poppy (Papaver somniferum)

Boasting deep burgundy, almost black petals and a wildly ruffled, featherlike texture, this poppy looks like it belongs on a Victorian stage. The 5-inch flowers seem to smolder in the sunlight, shifting from dark crimson to near-ebony, depending on the angle, making them a striking focal point in garden beds and borders. Easy to grow and deer resistant, this self-seeding annual returns year after year.

Growing tips

Direct-sow seeds four weeks before the last spring frost or in late fall. Mix the seeds with fine sand and scatter them thinly over the soil to avoid overcrowding. You might need to provide plants with a little support during the growing season to prevent them from toppling over in heavy wind. After flowering, its large, rounded green seedpods keep things interesting long after the petals have fallen, and the tiny black seeds inside can be used for baking.

Type: Annual; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Large, fully double, deep burgundy flowers with deeply ruffled and finely cut petals in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 36 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

‘Nightrider’ Asiatic lily (Lilium asiatica)

A cross between Asiatic and trumpet lilies, ‘Nightrider’ grabs attention with deep burgundy, trumpet-shaped blooms that shimmer in the sunlight. Perched atop tall, sturdy stems, its 6- to 6½-inch flowers appear violet-black in full sun and take on an almost inky black hue in light shade. Each stem produces three to five blooms, making it a striking addition to both the garden and fresh floral arrangements.

Growing tips

Beyond its color, ‘Nightrider’ is a lightly fragrant variety, offering a subtle scent that enhances its charm. Pollinators love it, and once established, it’s drought tolerant too. You can start your lilies from bulbs or purchase potted ones at the garden center for transplanting. If you’re planting bulbs, set them at a depth three times their height in rich, well-draining soil amended with compost or well-rotted manure. Staking may be needed for extra support for these impressive flowers during the growing season.

After flowers fade, allow the foliage to die back naturally, as it helps replenish the bulb for next year’s blooms. Wait until the stems become yellow or brown before cutting them back. If blooming slows after a few years, dig up the entire plant and check for crowded bulbs. Larger bulbs that have grown too close together may need to be split. While you’re dividing, you may notice several small bulblets attached to the larger bulbs. Go ahead and plant them too, but know that it’ll take several years for them to reach blooming size.

Type: Bulb 
Blooms: Outward-facing, maroon-black, trumpet-shaped flowers with large recurved petals from summer to fall 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8 
Source: The Lily Garden, thelilygarden.com, 360-253-6273

Black bat flower (Tacca chantrieri)

With whisker-like filaments and broad, winglike bracts, the black bat flower looks like something from a gothic fairy tale. Its dark bracts, often mistaken for petals, can grow up to a foot wide, framing small maroon-black flowers that emerge on elongating cymes, or flower clusters, at the center. Below, its dark green foliage forms a rosette of pleated, lance-shaped leaves that can reach 2 feet long.

Growing tips

Native to the tropical forests of Southeast Asia, this understory plant thrives in warm, humid conditions. It’s often grown as an annual in containers or kept indoors as a houseplant. During the summer, place it on a shaded patio or porch, then bring it indoors before cooler temperatures arrive. Overwinter black bat flower indoors by maintaining warm temperatures and high humidity to keep it from going dormant.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Deep purple to nearly black bracts with maroon-black flowers with whisker-like filaments from spring to fall 
Light: Part to full shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11 

‘Black Barlow’ columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata)

Unlike the delicate, long-spurred petals of traditional columbines, the heirloom variety ‘Black Barlow’ boasts fully double, pom-pom-like blooms in a deep near black shade of plum. Each intricate, layered flower nods gracefully atop slender stems, swaying gently with the breeze like a whisper from another era.

Growing tips

This hardy perennial thrives in full sun to part shade, producing a bounty of flowers in late spring and early summer. Its dusky blooms contrast beautifully against soft-green, lacy foliage, making it a standout in borders, woodland gardens and cut flower arrangements. A favorite of hummingbirds and pollinators, it brings movement and life to the garden. After flowering, ornamental seedpods add continued interest, and if allowed to self-seed, ‘Black Barlow’ will naturalize over time.

Type: Perennial; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Fully double, dark plum-purple blooms in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 30 in. tall, 14 to 16 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Sprite’ perennial bachelor’s button (Centaurea montana)

Delicate yet bold, ‘Black Sprite’ perennial bachelor’s button takes a familiar cottage garden favorite and gives it a moody twist. Its deep burgundy, nearly black blooms have a feathery, thistlelike appearance.

For continuous blooms, deadhead regularly. After the first flush of flowers is done, cut back plants for a tidier appearance and potential rebloom in fall. It readily self-seeds, ensuring its dark, spidery flowers return year after year with little effort. Bees and butterflies flock to its nectar-rich blooms. Long-lasting as a fresh cut flower or when dried, ‘Black Sprite’ is a versatile addition to any garden.

Type: Perennial 
Blooms: Black-purple flowers from midspring to midsummer with possible rebloom in fall
Light: Full sun 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 12 to 24 in. tall, 20 to 24 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris (Iris hybrid)

Flourishing in moisture-rich environments, ‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris is a natural fit for rain gardens, pond edges and damp borders. The wetter the soil, the more vigorous its growth. This plant can even be grown in up to 6 inches of standing water and adapts well to clay soils. Satiny, near black standards and falls accented by rusty-orange signals reach up to 4 to 6 inches across, making ‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris a bold standout in the garden.

Heat- and humidity-tolerant, it thrives even in sandy soil as long as moisture is consistent. Blooming from late spring into early summer, just as many spring flowers begin to fade, this plant attracts pollinators while remaining unappealing to deer. Over time, it forms lush, spreading clumps that can be divided every few years to expand its presence in the garden.

Type: Bulb; deer resistant; North American native
Blooms: Satiny near black standards and falls with rusty-orange signals in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Moist to wet, well-drained 
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall and wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9 

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Persian lily (Fritillaria persica)

Standing tall like a sentinel of the midnight garden, Persian lily is an unforgettable spring bloomer. Its long, elegant spikes are adorned with rows of dusky plum to near black, bell-shaped flowers and silvery green, lance-shaped foliage, creating a striking vertical accent in garden beds.

Native to the rocky slopes of Turkey and Iran, Persian lily is well adapted to dry, well-drained soils and thrives in full sun, making it an excellent choice for rock gardens, Mediterranean-style plantings or gravel beds. If you live in warmer regions, provide plants with afternoon shade to prevent burning flowers and foliage. Avoid heavy, saturated soils, which can cause the bulbs to rot. If your soil tends to be on the wet side, plant bulbs on a slope, in raised beds or in containers to improve their chance of survival.

Growing tips

Plant Persian lily in early fall, about 6 inches deep, in a spot that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Persian lily is naturally drought tolerant, requiring little water once established, though occasional deep watering during the growing season will promote stronger blooms. After the flowers fade, allow the foliage to die back naturally, as it helps store energy for the next season. Though not a prolific spreader, bulbs will multiply over time, creating larger, more impressive clumps each year.

Type: Bulb; deer resistant
Blooms: Plum to gray-green, bell-shaped flowers in mid- to late spring 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 12 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8 

‘Edge of Night’ calla lily (Zantedeschia hybrid)

A perfect blend of drama and sophistication, ‘Edge of Night’ calla lily commands attention with its burgundy, near black trumpet blooms and gracefully curled edges. Even when not in bloom, its deep green, lance-shaped leaves speckled with silvery white flecks keep the plant visually interesting.

Growing tips

Plant ‘Edge of Night’ in full sun to part shade, offering afternoon shade in hotter climates to prevent leaf scorch. It thrives in rich, well-drained soil with consistent moisture but should never sit in waterlogged conditions, as excessive moisture can cause rot. Plant rhizomes 3 to 4 inches deep, with the growing tips facing upward, and water regularly throughout the growing season. Remove the flowers as they start to fade, pulling the entire stem out at the base. In zones 7 and colder, lift rhizomes in fall and store in a cool, dry place until spring. In zones 8 and warmer, they can remain in the ground with a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection.

Grow ‘Edge of Night’ in borders, along shaded pathways or near water features where its flowers make an eye-catching focal point. It also performs beautifully in moist garden beds and thrives in containers on a patio. You can even keep it indoors in a bright, sunny location.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); deer resistant
Blooms: Burgundy-black trumpet blooms and variegated foliage in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 28 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11 

‘Dark Side of the Moon’ astilbe (Astilbe hybrid)

Astilbes are known for their soft, feathery plumes, but ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ adds a bold, unexpected twist. Unlike typical astilbes with bright green foliage, this variety emerges yellow with a dark margin, gradually deepening to rich chocolate brown as the season progresses. The more sun it receives, the more intense the foliage color becomes. By midsummer, rosy-purple flower spikes rise above the dark leaves for a spectacular display.

Growing tips

While astilbes tolerate occasional dryness, consistent moisture during the growing season ensures the best blooms and healthiest foliage. Deadheading spent flowers helps keep the plant tidy, though the dried seedheads add texture and interest into fall. To keep plants from overcrowding, divide clumps every few years by digging up the entire root ball and separating it into sections in early spring or late fall.

Grow ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ in beds, borders, woodland gardens and cutting gardens, where its dramatic foliage and vibrant blooms can shine. For contrast, pair it with silver- or chartreuse-leaved plants. The blooms also make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried arrangements.

Type: Perennial 
Blooms: Rosy purple feathery flower plumes in summer and dark chocolate brown foliage
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained
Size: 20 to 22 in. tall, 28 to 34 in. in bloom, 24 to 28 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9 
Source: Bluestone Perennials, bluestoneperennials.com, 800-852-5243

Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus)

Few plants offer the bold contrast of black mondo grass in a midnight garden. With deep purple-black, strappy leaves reaching 8 to 12 inches tall, this slow-growing perennial forms a dense, grasslike ground cover that adds a rich, velvety texture to beds, borders and pathways. Its almost jet-black foliage creates the perfect backdrop for lighter-hued plants, while its tidy, clumping habit makes it an easy fit in any moody landscape. Although it thrives in part shade, it develops its best color in full sun. In warmer climates, providing afternoon shade prevents the foliage from scorching.

Did you know?

Despite its name, black mondo grass isn’t a true grass — it belongs to the asparagus family, which also includes lilies, yucca and many houseplants, such as spider plants.

In summer, delicate pale pink flowers emerge, followed by shiny black berries the birds love to snack on and that persist into fall, adding another layer of interest. Water regularly during its first season to establish strong roots — once settled, it’s remarkably drought-tolerant. For a neat appearance, trim old foliage to the ground before new leaves emerge in spring.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Deep purple-black, strappy foliage and pink flowers in summer followed by black berries
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average, well-drained
Size: 6 to 9 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 6 to 10 

To kick off our 2025 garden tour season, we traveled to Spain’s Andalusia region in May for a week among the vibrant architecture and gardens of Seville, Granada, and Cordoba. This region along Spain’s southern coast is rich with history and art that reflects the many different cultural influences that have left their stamp on its diverse landscape. The abundant inspiration found around every corner was too great to keep to ourselves and the small group of fellow garden lovers that joined us. So we scoured our camera rolls to share some tour highlights, starting with our time exploring the striking palaces and iconic gardens of Seville.

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Casa de Pilatos

The Casa de Pilatos combines the beauty of the Italian Renaissance with traditional Moorish design. Also known as El Palacio de los Adelantados Mayores de Andalucía (The Palace of the Greater Adelantados of Andalusia), it was built between the 15th and 16th centuries and consists of elaborate courtyards, halls, and gardens.

The Small Garden (Jardín Chico), with greenery and fountains, is the epitome of peace in a bustling city and blends the Renaissance ideals of nature and architecture in perfect harmony.

Unlike other European palaces, which often feature lots of cold white marble and gilded everything, the Casa de Pilatos is a monument of color. This is evident in the bright tile work and architecture but can also be found in the bold plantings. In the Courtyard of the Halt (Patio del Apeadero), a century-old bougainvillea is a spectacular cascade of blooms.

Real Alcázar de Sevilla

We also visited the most famous and revered palace in the city, the Real Alcázar de Sevilla (Royal Alcázar of Seville). The Alcázar is one of the official residences of the Spanish royal family and one of the oldest palaces still in use in the world.

The main courtyard of the Real Alcázar de Sevilla is the Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens). According to tradition, the courtyard was given this name because the ladies of the court used this room for leisure and entertainment. With intricately ornate arches, a reflecting pool down the center, and sunken gardens on either side, it’s easy to see why they congregated in this room.

More Gardens Worth Traveling to:
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Must-See Public Gardens in the U.S.

Of course, the gardens at Real Alcázar de Sevilla extend far beyond the confines of the elaborate interior. Around the grounds a maze of meticulous hedges weave around a menagerie of tropical trees, bright blooms, and gorgeous water features.

Murillo Gardens

Just outside the Real Alcázar de Sevilla, and once a part of the palace’s grounds, are the Jardines de Murillo (Murillo Gardens). Incredible art and magnificent water features can be enjoyed throughout the gardens, but stay for the collection of flowering and fruiting trees. Some of the most famous are massive Moreton Bay figs (Ficus macrophylla), which create interesting patterns in their snakelike buttress roots.

Historic City Center

In Seville’s historic city center, there is plenty to see. A walk through the heart of the city brought us to the Palacio Arzobispal de Sevilla (Archbishop's Palace of Seville). Outside the palace, and throughout the city, horse-drawn carriages offer a different way to tour the sites. Our visit coincided with the Festival de Abril, a week-long celebration of Andalusian culture with music, dancing, food, and where many dress in traditional clothing.

The largest wooden structure in the world

You can't miss this modern piece of architectural art, the Metropol Parasol or Setas de Sevilla (Mushrooms of Seville), when visiting Seville. Currently the largest wooden structure in the world, this attraction opened in 2011 after German architect Jürgen Mayer won a design competition to revitalize the square. It is now home to an archaeological museum, shops, bars, and restaurants.

Parque de María Luisa

The Parque de María Luisa (Park of María Luisa) is hard to miss in Seville. This 99-acre green oasis along the Guadalquivir River, which cuts through the city, is the largest park in Seville. The famous Plaza de España can be found adjacent to the park, which has a large water feature that wraps around the square, but don’t stop there. The park is home to many different water features, including the Fuente de las Ranas (Fountain of the Frogs).

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Photos courtesy of Kristin Beane Sullivan and Eric Flynn

2025 Reader Garden Award Runner-Up:

Congratulations to Becky Short from Macungie, PA!

For Becky, the joy of gardening has been in the journey. Meaningful memories can be found throughout her yard, from the knot garden inspired by a vacation in England to an outbuilding that is a replica of the historic Tayloe House in Colonial Williamsburg. Pieces of inspiration get stitched together throughout the space to create something cohesive yet completely unique.

A beautiful and beneficial garden

While her garden is oozing with style and interest, it also emphasizes environmental impact. The plants she considers signature to her designs are natives like milkweed (Asclepias spp.), goldenrod (Solidago spp.) and black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp.) that welcome flocks of pollinators to her garden. Becky also chooses to garden completely organically, and the wildlife that visits her beds and borders are welcome guests rather than pests that need to be deterred.

Sharing the love for gardening

Becky’s garden is also a space to teach her two granddaughters. An herb garden is a treasure trove of sights and smells, and a mini meadow in an old wagon is a fun way to demonstrate the beauty and importance of native plants.

Thanks to Jung Seed for providing a $100 runner-up gift certificate prize to Becky!

Spreading plant joy outside the garden

Becky’s garden generosity expands beyond the realm of her home garden as well. The joy she found in gardening with her grandchildren inspired her to form a garden club at their elementary school, and she now helps run garden clubs at three different schools in the area. In addition, she has been a part of gardening projects throughout her area, including a community garden next to a local homeless shelter, a healing garden at a nearby hospital, and a native plant garden at their library. All these projects demonstrate why Becky finds so much joy in gardening, for the beauty that it creates and for the benefit it has in our own environment and public spaces.

Photos courtesy of Becky Short

Enter for a chance to be one of next year’s winners

For details on entry guidelines for submitting your garden in the 2026 Garden Gate Reader Garden Award, click here.

See Our Previous Year’s Reader Garden Award Winners:

• 2024: Multiseason Beauty With Perennials & Flowering Trees
  
• 2023: Grand Garden Experiment
  
• 2022: Charming Southern Backyard Garden
  
• 2021: Beautiful Hillside Garden
  
• 2020: Urban Garden Retreat