Tips for flower pounding on fabric

Enjoy blooms from your garden year-round when you create botanical prints with flower pounding. In addition to these charming gift bags, you can make towels, tablecloths, shirts and even socks. This simple process starts with fresh flowers, a hammer and fabric made of natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, bamboo or hemp. Watch the video above and read the simple steps below to learn more about the flower pounding technique.

What you will need for this project

Materials

• Fabric item made of 100% natural fibers (We used 5×7 and 8×10 100% cotton gift bags)
• pH neutral detergent (We used Mrs. Meyer’s brand)
• Washing soda, or sodium carbonate (We used Arm & Hammer^™ All Natural Super Washing Soda)
• Alum, or aluminum potassium sulfate for mordant (We used a generic brand of Alum found in the spice aisle)
• Fresh flowers and foliage

Tools

• Small bucket
• Tweezers
• Hammer
• Cutting board or other flat surface for pounding
• Barrier cloth (We used an old pillowcase, but you could also use scrap fabric or a paper towel)
• Cardboard
• Iron and ironing board
• Sheet of paper

Step 1: Prepare the fabric for flower pounding

To ensure the fabric absorbs the color pigments from the flowers, use an all-natural fiber, and follow two preparatory steps:

• Start by scouring the fabric, which removes oils, waxes and impurities that might interfere with dye absorption.
• To scour, soak the fabric in a mixture of 1 teaspoon of pH-neutral detergent and 2 tablespoons of washing soda in 1 gallon of warm water. We soaked these bags for about five minutes before hand washing and rinsing until the water ran clean.
• Next, soak the fabric in a mordant solution, which helps bind the dye to the material. To do this, mix 1 gallon of hot water with 2 teaspoons of alum in a bucket and soak the fabric for 2 hours.
• Then, in a separate container, dissolve 1 teaspoon of washing soda in ½ cup of hot water and add it to the alum solution.
• Let the fabric soak in the mordanting mixture for at least 8 more hours, then wring out the fabric and allow it to dry naturally without rinsing.
• Once it’s dry, iron the fabric flat.

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Step 2: Create your design

Now it’s time to arrange the flowers in a design that you’ll be imprinting with a hammer. You can find some of the flowers that worked best for us at the bottom of this article.

• To begin, place the fabric on a hard surface, such as a cutting board. (To prevent the dye from bleeding onto the back of the gift bags, insert cardboard into the bag to separate the layers of fabric.)
• Arrange the flowers face-down on the bag and cover them with a barrier cloth. We’re using an old pillowcase above, but you could also use scrap fabric or a paper towel.
• Delicate flowers, such as Johnny jump-ups, easily transfer their color when pounded. However, flowers with dense centers, such as marigolds and coreopsis, tend to create a muddy design when pressed whole. Removing the petals and arranging them in a pattern results in a cleaner design and better dye transfer.
• Hammering stems and flowers separately gives you the freedom to mix and match, so you’re not limited to using the exact flower and stem together.
• When working with leaves, place them face up: This helps the veins and textures imprint clearly on the fabric.
• To make sure the dye spreads evenly and the details transfer to the fabric, pound softly with the hammer starting at the outer edges and working toward the center.
• You might have to go over it a few times. In the photo above we’re pulling back the barrier cloth to check the progress of the transfer and adjust any flowers or leaves that may have shifted during hammering.

Step 3: Finish & set the flower print

• Let the flower print dry for a few minutes before gently removing the plant material. If left for too long, it becomes harder to separate from the fabric.
• In the photo above we’re using tweezers to carefully peel away the flowers.
• Next, heat set the flower print by laying a sheet of paper over the design and iron on a low setting.  

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Plants that work great for flower pounding

We found that fresh-picked blooms provide the best color intensity, and some flowers contained more pigments in their petals, making them better at transferring vibrant colors. Additionally, some flowers experience a color shift during the transfer process, like you can see above. Here's a short list of flowers we've had success with:

• Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
• Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.)
• Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
• Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia hirta)
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.)
• Johnny jump-up (Viola tricolor)
• Mandevilla (Mandevilla x amabilis)
• Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
• Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis)

How to make a marigold garland

Marigold garlands hold a special place in celebrations across the globe, adding vibrant color and festive flair to any occasion. Whether you're preparing for a special event or simply want to bring a touch of tradition into your home, crafting your own marigold garland is a rewarding and beautiful project. Watch our short video for a step-by-step guide, or follow the instructions below to create your own flower garland.

Supplies:

• Tapestry needle works great for this project
• Thread (We recommend size 5 crochet thread)
• Marigold flowers with calyxes intact
• Snips or scissors

Step 1: Harvest marigold flowers for garland

Gather marigold flowers from your garden, making sure to include the calyx, or section below the bloom that holds the petals together.

Step 2: Measure string, and thread needle

First, decide on the length you want for your marigold garland. Measure and cut a piece of thread, making sure to leave some extra length at the ends for easy hanging. Thread your needle, and you're ready to start adding the blooms!

Step 3: String marigold blooms together to create garland

String flowers by running a tapestry needle up through the hollow stem and out the middle of the blossom. After the flower is strung, tuck each stem into the petals of the previous bloom until you have the length you want. Alternately, pierce the calyx sideways and arrange flowers on the string in a spiral for a different look.

Step 4: Display your marigold garland!

Marigold garlands are a versatile and vibrant way to bring a touch of natural beauty into your home or outdoor spaces. Whether you're looking to add a pop of color to your patio or brighten up an indoor area, these garlands are a simple yet stunning solution. Outdoors, you can drape the garland along the edges of your patio, weave it through a trellis or even hang it from trees to create a festive atmosphere.

Add a colorful fall accent indoors

Indoors, marigold garlands can be used to enhance any room. Consider hanging one in a doorway or across a mantel to bring a touch of autumn into your home. The garlands can also be used to add a decorative element to a table setting. Wrap a string of garland around the base of a candle or a vase to create an eye-catching centerpiece that's perfect for any occasion.

Garland tip

Marigold flowers dry and shrink slightly in a few days, but the colors stay bright for weeks. Hang in an area away from air vents or drafts to help keep your garland intact and beautiful as long as possible.

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Create a unique garden ornament with a repurposed gan blade

Are you looking for a project to work on during the winter months while your garden is resting? Try out this cute craft idea from Donna. She repurposed an old box fan into a spinning flower ornament for the garden. She removed the blades, which were attached to a center disc, from the box fan. It already resembled a flower, but it needed some colorful paint. She spray painted it all black first, and then used acrylic paint for the blades. It might help to finish it off with a clear sealing spray paint rated for outdoor use.

Add your ornament to the garden

To mount the ornament in the garden, she found a tall, sturdy straight stick. But any PVC pipe or thick stake would do the trick. Next, she grabbed a wheel bolt kit from the hardware store. After drilling a hole into the stick and a hole in the center of the disc, it was simple to follow the instructions for attaching the two using the wheel bolt. She placed the ornament in a spot where the color can be admired and the breeze pushes the blades to spin.

Tip Submitted by Donna Van Horn, IA

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Create your own holiday decor with elements from the garden

Madeline knows how to work her garden magic to spruce up her entryway for the holidays! When late fall rolls around, she takes a stroll through her garden and snips a few dormant vine stems. Then she weaves these stems in and out of her metal porch railing and fence gate to create a base that can be laced with evergreen boughs and painted pine cones. And just in time for the holidays, she decks out her garden-inspired masterpiece with bright berries and sparkling ornaments.

The result? An entryway that's bursting with natural charm and creativity. Madeline's garden-grown decor is a reminder that you can find beauty right in your own backyard. So why not give it a try, and let your garden shine this holiday season?

Tip Submitted by Madeline Spurck, IL

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DIY Dried Floral Wreath

Want to enjoy your flowers for years? Dry them and show them off indoors in a bouquet or a floral wreath! Here's a simple wreath that you can make with flowers you grow and dry, buy from a local flower farmer or pick up at the craft store.

We asked Erin Howell-Conner of Howell's Greenhouse and Pumpkin Patch in Cumming, Iowa, to share her secrets for making dried-flower wreaths. She's been growing flowers to dry for over 30 years and has a lot of handy tips for drying and arranging these blooms so they look great and last a long time.

Materials & supplies

• 14-in.-diameter grapevine wreath
• Glue pillows or glue sticks
• Hot glue pot or glue gun
• Dried flowers and greenery

Great dried flowers & greenery to use for a wreath

• Cockscomb celosia (Celosia argentea cristata)
• Statice (Limonium sinuatum)
• Winged everlasting (Ammobium alatum)
• Blue salvia (Salvia farinacea)
• Flamingo feathers celosia (Celosia argentea spicata)
• Globe amaranth (Gomphrena globosa)
• Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris)
• Mountain mint (Pycnanthemum virginianum)

How to create a dried floral wreath

As you work on it, hang or prop your grapevine wreath up so you can easily see how all the floral elements look. This will help get a balanced look to the arrangements.

Step 1: Create a greenery base

Start by adding greenery to the grapevine wreath as a base for the more colorful dried flowers that will go on later. In the video, Erin uses mugwort and mountain mint for her wreath design. You can use a pair of snips or your hands to cut or break off pieces that you'll attach to the wreath. Cut off a few stems, remove lower leaves to make them easier to place then dip the ends into the hot glue pot. You can also use a hot glue gun but that tends to be more time consuming.

Tips for great-looking greenery

• AS you place the greenery make sure it's all going in the same direction. It creates a more pleasing look and a sense of movement around the wreath.
• No need to let single leaves go to waste — these and small sprigs can also be glued in place.

Hot glue tip

When you're working with a hot glue pot, glue strings are inevitable. They trail across the wreath, looking a bit like cobwebs. Erin finds it's easier to remove them as you go rather than to wait until later when it's a big tangled mess.

Step 2: Add color with dried flowers

With the greenery in place, it's time to start adding the dried flowers. Erin finds that it's easier to start with the larger flowers then tuck smaller ones in around them. With its bright color and interesting shape, the cockscomb celosia is the attention getter on this dried-flower wreath. Odd numbers tend to look best.

Step 3: Add more flowers!

Once the biggest flowers are in place, it's time to add contrast. Group stems of smaller flowers here and there. Single stems don't stand out enough on their own.

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Step 4: Add finishing touches to the wreath

When you have all the flowers you want on the wreath, go back through and tuck more greenery in the empty spots. Don't forget to cover a portion of the inner and outer edge so you have a full look.

Now take a step back to look over what you've done and rotate the wreath so you can see it from different angles. Add more flowers or greenery to get the wreath you want.

Dried floral wreath care

A dried floral wreaths can last for years if you take good care of it. Make sure it's out of direct sunlight so the colors don't fade. If some of the stems break off or get damaged, replace them like you did when you first made it.

The longer your wreath is around the more dust becomes a problem but a dried floral product spray, such as Dry Splendor, can get rid of it. Spray the wreath thoroughly following label directions.

How to store your dried floral wreath

If you need to store your dried floral wreath, wrap it in tissue paper and place it in a cardboard box. You may need some additional tissue to keep it from moving around and getting damaged. Erin doesn't recommend storing your wreath in a plastic tote. Even dried flowers have a bit of moisture, and in a sealed plastic tub this can cause the colors to run or mold to form.

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Give your pots a chic, marbleized look

Of all the ways to paint clay pots, creating this marble effect with spray paint ranks at the top for us. The finish is classy and a cinch to pull off. But the end result resembles high-end marble.

What you’ll need to marbleize your clay pot

Check out the materials list below and you’ll see that you probably have most of the supplies around your home already. We tested out a couple of pots using the spray paint we had on hand to get a feel for the project and then purchased paint in a specific color palette to get the exact look we wanted.

Materials

• 5-gallon bucket or deep plastic tub filled with water
• Terra-cotta clay pots (4 or 6 in.)
• Spray paint (base coat and 2 or more colors for marbling)
• Latex gloves and painter’s mask
• Bamboo skewers
• A cardboard tray and bamboo stakes

Pick your palette

The palette options are infinite — explore some great color ideas in our how-to video. In the pot you see here, we chose to use a matte gray, glossy black, creamy white and a touch of red to create a classic marble look. Look for color inspiration in your garden or home decor to help you choose your palette. Check out some of our favorite color palettes we experimented with in this PDF.

Collecting your materials will probably be the most time-intensive part of this project. The rest of the steps are a breeze and fun to experiment with!

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How to marbleize a clay pot

Step 1: Start with the base color

Prepare a drying space within arms reach for your pot to dry. We repurposed a cardboard nursery flat and cut a bamboo stake into sections that fit inside the flat. The pot can rest upside down while it dries here.

Wear gloves and a painter’s mask and spray paint the pot with the base color. We chose a matte charcoal gray. The paint won’t take longer than 10 minutes to dry. While you wait, fill the bucket or tub with water deep enough to completely submerge the pot.

Step 2: Prepare the paint

Next you’ll create the marble layer — be prepared to work quickly with these steps. First, completely spray to cover the surface of the water in the bucket with a layer of paint. Without delay, spray another layer of a different color of paint, and keep spraying alternating layers of color to create a solid film of paint on the water’s surface. We sprayed 5 to 7 alternating layers of black and white with one quick spray of brick red for a pop of color.

Step 3: Create the marble effect

You can see the marble effect beginning to form on the surface above. Next, grab the wooden skewer and, using the tip like in the photo above, gently swirl the colors together a few times until you see a pattern that appeals to you.

Project tip

• If you want to do multiple pots in the same bucket of water, skim the surface with your gloved hand or use an old mesh strainer to collect the leftover paint.
• To use a different color palette, be sure no previous paint remains. If it can't be removed, it's best to dump the water and refill the bucket.

Step 4: Dip your pot

Holding onto the edge of the pot, slowly dip to submerge it. You can see above that we held it at an angle so that water flowed in through the drainage hole and submerged easily.

As the pot is completely submerged, gently twist it back and forth to break the film of paint on the water’s surface. This prevents any accidental “double dipping,” which can muddle the marble pattern.

Step 5: Let it dry

Remove the pot slowly and set it upside-down to dry on a homemade rack made from a cardboard nursery flat and bamboo stakes cut to fit, like you see above. Inserting a finger through the drainage hole gives you a way to hold the pot without touching the paint. Your marbleized pot will be dry in no time and you can admire your terra-cotta transformation!

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Marbleized color palette inspiration

Check out these different color palettes we experimented with for this project in the gallery below. You can also download this PDF to print out as a reference.

Whether it's the holidays, a birthday or "Just because" these DIY garden gifts are perfect for the plant people in your life. Check out the gift ideas below and click through to the full article to get more helpful tips for each project.

Give the gift of seeds

Do you save seeds from your garden every year? Whether you save flower or vegetable seeds, share some of the bounty with friends by dressing them up in small decorative bags with a homemade tag.

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Marbleized terra-cotta pots

Give your pots a chic, marbleized look with this DIY technique! Of all the ways to paint clay pots, creating this marble effect with spray paint ranks at the top for us. The finish is classy and a cinch to pull off. But the end result resembles high-end marble. Makes a great gift! See the full article here »

Make a terrarium

Being indoors doesn't mean you can't have the benefits of a garden — make yourself a terrarium. It's also easy to personalize as a gift by adding a friend's favorite plant or an ornament with special meaning. See the full article here »

DIY lavender sugar scrub

One of the best things about growing lavendar is all the ways you can use its fragrant stems. Even if this heat-loving plant is too hard to grow in your garden you can still purchase a bundle or two to make this sugar scrub and have a stay-at-home spa treatment. See the full article here »

Gift a Kokedama

Kokedama, translated “moss ball,” is a Japanese form of garden art. Simple but elegant kokedama will enliven your home or anyone you give it to. Use it as a graceful focal point or set on trays, plant stands or even hanging from the ceiling. See the full article & video tutorial here »

Forcing bulbs indoors

You don't have to wait for spring to get the color you crave — brighten those gray winter days by forcing a few bulbs indoors. Gifting to a friend? Buy some hyacinth bulbs, a bulb-forcing jar or glass vase and some decorative stones to create a unique gift set. See the full article here »

Birdseed ornaments

This simple project is perfect for your bird-loving friends and will look great hanging from the trees and shrubs around the garden. See the full article here »

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Bird-feeder wreath

With a little imagination and some items from your garden you can create an extra special wreath that looks great and feeds the birds at the same time. Once your friends and family see this one they'll be adding it to their wish lists. See the full article here »

Sand-cast projects

You can make sand-cast projects large or small with a few easy-to-find materials and a leaf from your own garden. See the full article here »

DIY Garden chandelier

Add an outdoor chandelier to your deck or patio and you can enjoy chatting with friends in its warm glow even after the sun sets. It's the perfect gift for any aficionado of outdoor entertaining. See the full article here »

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This succulent wall planter is a living piece of art!

A privacy fence makes sitting in your backyard a little more relaxing — you have the space all to yourself. The downside is, who wants to sit around looking at a blank wall while they’re kicking back on the patio? Adding an outdoor ornament is nice but you can crank the décor up a notch by making this unique living wall planter made from a board, an inverted hanging basket and plants.

Succulents are the common-sense choice for this project. They don’t need a lot of water and actually grow best with the good drainage a coco fiber-lined basket provides. In addition, the variety of leaf shapes and colors you can find is amazing and most grow slowly so they’ll hold those interesting shapes for much of the growing season.

Though it may look like some gravity-defying trick, this project isn’t as hard to make as you might think. In fact it’s so easy you could even make several to hang all along a length fence! Keep scrolling to find out how.

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What you'll need to create your succulent wall planter

Materials & Tools

• 12-in. metal hanging basket with coco liner
• Z-bar bracket
• Succulent potting mix
• Sand
• Outdoor paint, paint brush
• Hammer, screwdriver, steel staples, cable ties, scissors, landscape staples
• 18 × 24-in. sheet of coco liner
• 16 × 16-in. piece of treated plywood
• Assorted succulents and sedums
  

Step 1: Build the frame

Start by painting a 16-in. square piece of treated plywood with the outdoor paint of your choice. When it’s dry, turn it over and attach one of the Z-bar brackets (found online or at your local hardware store) you see in the photo above to the back. The other one goes on the wall where the basket will hang. This bracket is strong enough to support the weight of the basket and hold the board flush against the privacy fence.

Step 2: Prepare potting mix

Combine 2 parts soilless potting mix to one part coarse sand to give sedums and other succulents the sharp drainage they need to grow their best. Premoisten the potting mix, so it’s damp but not soupy.

Step 3: Prepare the basket

Remove the hanging basket’s chain. Add the prepared potting mix to the basket and press it in firmly with your hand, as the photo above shows. You want to get as much potting mix into the basket as possible so it won’t settle, leaving gaps when you turn it over and start planting. If there’s space between the mix and the edge of the basket, add more.

Step 4: Line the back of the basket

Cut a circle from the sheet of coco liner that’s a little larger than the size of the hanging basket opening, as you see above. It doesn't matter what color the circle of coco liner is since it will be pressed up to the plywood backing and won't be seen later.

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Step 5: Fasten the liner to the basket

Use cable ties to fasten the liner the basket’s lip, making sure to go through both layers of the liner to hold it all in place. You may need to tuck the edges in a bit. Space the cable ties a couple of inches apart around the basket. This will keep all that potting mix from spilling out of the basket.

Flip the basket

Now position the painted board on the mouth of the basket, grab hold tightly with both hands and flip it over so that it is laying flat. Then it is time to fasten the basket to the board so you can get to the fun part of the project, designing and planting with succulents!

Step 6: Fasten the basket to the board

Use heavy-duty 9-gauge galvanized steel staples and pound them in with a hammer every 2 to 3 in. around the edge to keep the basket securely fastened to the board.

Step 7: Plant the basket

Now for the fun part — planting your succulents and sedums! Most of your plants will probably come from the garden center or try online sources such as Succulent Gardens. But you can also dig or cut a few pieces of ground cover sedums (Sedum spp. and hybrids) or hen and chicks (Sempervivum spp. and hybrids) from your garden to help fill in the gaps. These plants are good fillers since they grow quickly.

Cut a planting hole

Coco liners are so dense that you can’t just pull them apart with your fingers — use scissors or a garden shears to make a hole instead. That makes it easier to pull back the sides and create a planting space.

Plant in the prepared hole

Once you have a spot in the liner ready, tip the plant gently out of its nursery pot. If the root ball stays intact, you may need to gently squeeze the root ball or shake some of the soil off to get it in the planting hole.

Use a variety of leaf shapes and colors for a good-looking basket. Some succulents, like echeveria (Echeveria hybrid) keep their rosette form all season. Others, like duncecap (Orostachys boehmeri), have a spreading habit.

Step 8: Add extra support

Since this basket will be hanging on a wall, some of the plants might need help initially to stay in place. Keep top-heavy succulents secure by gently pushing a landscape staple over a leaf or two.

Handle succulents with care

Be careful when you’re handling succulents. It’s easy to break a stem or leaf off. You can root the broken piece and the parent plant will grow just fine. But it will affect the shape of the plant since the missing piece usually won’t grow back or the stem will branch from the broken point.

Add succulent leaf cuttings

You can also take some leaf cuttings from a jade plant (Crassula ovata) — they root pretty easily. Just snap a leaf from the parent plant. Let it dry in the shade for a few days to form a callous. Then stick the leaf into the liner so it makes contact with the potting mix.

Step 9: Water in your succulent wall planter & let settle

After you've watered the planting thoroughly, give the plants a week or so laying flat in a sheltered spot, out of direct sun to get settled in and start growing roots, before hanging it up.

Step 10: Hang your succulent wall planter

Where you place your living wall art makes a difference—too much sun can scorch the foliage of some succulents while not enough will change the color of others or cause them to stretch. Choose a place that gets morning sun or bright dappled shade and most will do fine.

How to care for your succulent wall planter

You shouldn’t have to water your succulents more than once a week, even in the heat of summer. They’re drought-tolerant and will rot with too much water. You may need to take the planter off the wall to get an even application with the hose. Or use a watering wand that has a gentle shower setting. If you expect several days of rain, move your living art to a sheltered spot so it doesn't become water-logged.

It is possible to overwinter this planting in cold climates. However, most succulents stretch and get gangly even under grow lights so your best bet is to disassemble it in fall and start fresh again the following spring.

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Make your own rain chain

Rain chains are decorative elements with a practical function: to guide water in a sculptural and controlled way. They’re used in place of downspouts, but that’s not the only spot where they can catch water. Hung from tree limbs, pergolas, garden sheds or other creative spots, flowing water can be harnessed into an aesthetically pleasing feature.

As I brainstormed ideas for a DIY rain chain, I wanted to use items that didn’t necessarily hold the water but directed the flow downward. Something that was affordable and easy to assemble with minimal tools was a priority, too. And I wanted to make it unlike any rain chain I’ve seen in a store. My solution: repurposing forks, spoons and jack chain to make this floral-inspired DIY rain chain. It looks good when the weather is dry and when it’s raining.

Personalize your rain chain

I found that it was easiest to purchase inexpensive flatware. This way every spoon matched and was easy to bend — soup spoons with wide, curved bowls work best. You can repurpose old mismatched flatware, too, just test out how they will distribute water before constructing the whole rain chain. Adjust the length of jack chain between the clusters of flatware (which I call flowers) to suit your needs, too. I wanted a long rain chain that wasn’t too heavy, so there’s 12 inches of jack chain between each flower, but you can adjust the length of chain between each flower to suit your needs. Hang your chain above a rain barrel, basin or swale to keep water from pooling beneath.

Take a look at the materials and tools below — this is enough to make a 10½-foot rainchain with eight flowers. Then follow the steps — you’re bound to discover a great way to make it work for your garden.

Materials & tools to make a DIY rain chain

The list of materials below is enough to create eight flowers and a 10½-foot chain.

Materials

• 8 feet of 16# jack chain (more for hanging)
• 48 soup spoons
• 8 forks
• Duct tape
• 25 feet of 25# galvanized wire
• 8 split rings, size 4
• 1 S-hook for hanging

Tools

• Drill with 3/32-inch titanium drill bit
• Needlenose pliers
• A chunk of scrap wood
• Wire cutters
• Split ring tool (optional)

Step 1: Make the base of your DIY rain chain

The forks connect the lengths of jack chain and act as a spacer between the spoons. It’s easiest to connect all the forks and jack chain first before adding any of the spoons.

• Drill a hole at the top of each fork handle, close enough to the edge so that the jack chain can loop through the hole. A small piece of masking tape prevens the drill bit from slipping.
• Add a split ring to the neck of each fork, just above the tines, using pliers or a split ring tool.
• Connect each fork with a 12-inch length of jack chain. Loop the top link of the jack chain around a split ring of one fork, clamp it shut, and then loop the bottom link of the jack chain through the hole in the handle of the next fork. Continue adding chain and forks until you reach the desired length.
• Use the pliers to bend the tines slightly, some forward and some back; they’ll stick out from the spoon flowers like stamens!

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Step 2: Attach the “flowers”

To make each flower you’ll need six spoons — four for the petals and two for the leaves. Have a handful of 2-inch strips of duct tape on hand, too. The trick to assembling the flower is to keep the handles of the spoons and fork from slipping.

• Attach the petals first. Place the fork on top of a face-up spoon (you may need to bend the bowls of the petal spoons slightly so that all of the handles will fit snugly together). Then, place another spoon face down on top of the fork. Wrap your palm securely around the handles to keep them aligned, and tightly wrap a strip of duct tape around all three necks of the flatware.
• Place another spoon face up in your palm, turn the stack of three on its side and line up the handles. The last of the four petal spoons goes face-down on top of the stack. Secure with another strip of duct tape.
• Add the “leaves”. Deeply bend two spoons to somewhere between a 45-degree and 90-degree angle. Then line up the handles of these spoons on top of the handles of the flower cluster. Wrap another piece of tape around the neck. Your flower is complete. Repeat this process with each of the forks.

Step 3: Finishing touches

You’re on the homestretch! You can’t count on the duct tape to hold the spoons long-term, so the last element to the assembly is the galvanized wire, which adds extra support.

• Tuck a 16-inch length of wire between the necks of the silverware and wrap around the handles until the duct tape is covered.
• Use the Needlenose pliers to bend the ends of the wire so that it no longer sticks out.
• Now it’s time to look over each flower and make any adjustments to the petals. Hang your DIY rain chain with an S-hook and a nail or a carabiner. Or purchase a rain chain adapter and hang in place of your downspout.

What is a "Kokedama"?

Kokedama, translated “moss ball,” is a Japanese form of garden art. Simple yet elegant, it’s made by wrapping a plant’s roots with soil, sphagnum sheet moss and string, rather than planting in the ground or a container. This creates a striking focal point, drawing attention to the shape of flowers and foliage, especially in contrast to the smooth, round moss-covered ball.

Enliven your home or garden with kokedama planters by setting them on trays, small stands or by hanging them from rafters or ceilings. It’s especially rewarding to surround yourself with kokedama planters you’ve made yourself — it’s not difficult to do! We’ll show you how. Start by watching the video above for a quick overview of how to make a kokedama, then scroll on for the details.

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Most of the tools and materials you need for this project are available at your local garden center and craft store. Gather up the items in the lists below, and then follow our helpful how-to steps.

Kokedama materials list

• Peat moss
• Akadama soil
• Sphagnum sheet moss
• Waxed string or floral wire
• Plants proportionate to the size of ball you’re creating

Helpful tools

• Scissors
• Bowl
• Latex gloves
• Measuring cup

How to make a Kokedama

Step 1: Prepare the soil ball

Akadama soil, also used in potting mix for bonsai trees, is a type of granular volcanic clay soil from Japan. Combining it with peat moss in a 1:1 mix helps keep the ball moist so you won’t need to water it as often.

• For an average-sized ball 4 inches in diameter, add 1 cup of each potting medium, as you see in the photo above, to a mixing bowl.
• With your hands, combine the two together, crushing some of the akadama pellets as you go.
• To moisten the mix, pour in water little by little. You don’t want the soil to get too wet at once or it will be difficult to work with. In total, this kokedama needed about ¾ to 1 cup to get the right consistency and shape a ball easily.
• If soil isn’t sticking together well at this point, sprinkle in a little more akadama soil. You’ll know you have the right mix when it holds together.

Once you’ve molded the ball, hold it in both hands and press one thumb into the top, like in photo above, to make a hole for your plant’s roots.

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Step 2: Plant up your kokedama

• Set the ball aside to prepare your plant.
• Take it out of its pot, and gently remove potting mix so the roots are mostly bare.
• Then just slip the roots into the hole, and gently pack the ball around them.
• If your plant is too large for the ball you’ve prepared, you may be able to divide the plant now, depending on what you’ve chosen, and make more than one kokedama.
  
  

Step 3: Wrap with moss

Now you’re ready to wrap your ball in sphagnum sheet moss. You can dampen it by soaking the moss in warm water, if you’d like. But the sheet moss will absorb water just fine without pre-moistening it. The photo above shows how to lay out the sheet moss, set the ball in the center and gather the moss around the soil and up to the base of the plant.

Secure with string

To secure the moss in place, hold the ball in one hand and wind the waxed string or floral wire around it in all directions. Start at the bottom of the ball, and leave a piece of longer string exposed so you can tie it off when you’re done wrapping. If you’d like to hang your kokedama, begin at the top of the ball, by the base of the plant, and leave an extended section of string.

Caring for your Kokedama

• Fill a small bowl halfway with water and set your kokedama in for 5 to 10 minutes or until it’s heavy. Every few days, feel the ball’s weight to determine if it needs soaking again. The humidity and temperature inside your house or out in the garden will affect how often you need to water.
• Wait a few days before exposing plants that like full sun to sunny conditions. Hardening them off will ensure they don’t burn.
• During the growing season, feed kokedama once every few weeks by mixing water-soluble fertilizer in the water bowl.
• Place your kokedama on a shallow dish to help protect wood surfaces indoors.
• If well-watered plants start to show signs of stress, move them to a larger ball.

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