From beefsteak and compact trailing tomatoes to pint-sized options for patios and small spaces, these fresh 2026 vegetable and fruit introductions are a feast for the eyes and palate.

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‘Baby Jack’ eggplant (Solanum melongena)

If you don’t have a lot of garden space, this pint-sized eggplant is just what you need. Grow it in containers or the ground for a plentiful harvest of deep purple 2- to 3-ounce fruits 58 to 62 days from transplant. ‘Baby Jack’ is good for grilling, roasting or stir-fry.

Type: Annual
Best features: Compact high-yield plants that produce deep purple fruits; deer-resistant 
Light: Full sun
Size: 22 in. tall, 19 in. wide
Introducer:Syngenta^® Flowers
Source: Local garden centers

Sugar Basket Orange cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)

While this determinate cherry tomato grows happily in the ground or in containers, it has a slightly trailing habit that makes it great for hanging baskets too. You’ll have plenty of bright orange cherry tomatoes to keep salads and other meals colorful and flavorful.

Type: Annual
Best features: A plentiful harvest of small orange tomatoes and a trailing habit; deer-resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall and wide
Introducer:Burpee Home Gardens
Source: Local garden centers

Easy as Pie^® bush cherry (Prunus x)

Pretty and flavorful, this compact shrub is covered in white flowers that pollinators love in spring and later produces tart red cherries, which you can preserve or use in baking.

Type: Shrub
Best features: Compact plant with lovely spring blooms and later produces tart red cherries
Light: Full sun
Size: 36 to 54 in. tall and wide
Cold hardy: USDA zones 3 to 8
Introducer:Proven Winners^®
Source:Garden Crossings, 616-875-6355

Win a Box of New Plants This Spring!

Sign Up for The Proven Winners New Plant Sweepstakes Here!

Unity beefsteak tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)

These 8- to 12-ounce beefsteak tomatoes with a mild flavor are a great way to dress up your sandwich or salad. Plants are smaller for an indeterminate tomato, so you won’t be wrangling unwieldy long stems into a cage, and the fruit is early — you’ll be harvesting 70 days after transplanting your seedlings.

Type: Annual
Best features: Lots of early red tomatoes for your sandwiches and salads; deer-resistant
Light: Full sun
Size: 5 to 6 ft. tall and wide
Introducer & Source:Johnny’s Selected Seeds, 877-564-6697  

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If you’re one of those gardeners who can’t wait to get started in spring and hates to throw in the trowel in fall, spinach is the perfect “shoulder season” crop. This mild, earthy-flavored green comes in many varieties, ranging from crinkly-leafed savoys to slightly textured semi-savoys and the flat, smooth-leafed types. Colors can be dark green, light green and even red-veined. Here’s how to get the most of it every year.

How to grow spinach from seed

Plant seeds directly in the garden ½ inch deep and 2 inches apart. When seedlings are 2 inches tall, thin to 4 to 6 inches apart with scissors to prevent disturbing the young shallow roots.

Seeds germinate best in soil temperatures between 45 and 68 degrees F and plants grow best when air temperatures are between 50 and 60 degrees. For a spring crop, sow seeds four to six weeks before your average last frost date. To get an early start, grow spinach in a cold frame or use a plastic hoop cover to maintain optimal soil and air temperatures for germination. In early summer, when temps are 70 degrees, a shade cloth keeps the soil cool and prevents bolting. To extend your harvest, look for varieties that are slow to bolt; this makes them better suited for growing and harvesting during the warmer days of early summer.

When to plant spinach

It’s best to start a fall crop six to eight weeks before the average first frost date, but the soil may still be too warm for optimal germination. A shade cloth and plenty of moisture can help keep the soil around young plants cool as they emerge and can be removed when air temps are below 70 degrees. A plastic cover protects mature plants from a hard frost, which causes wilting and discolored leaves. Select varieties that overwinter well to extend your harvest. See how you can navigate seasonal temperature challenges in “Seasonal Spinach Solutions” above.

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Caring for spinach plants

Grow spinach in full sun and mix compost or well-rotted manure into the soil at planting time or apply a slow-release granular fertilizer specifically for vegetables every 4 to 6 weeks during the growing season. A 1- to 2-inch layer of straw mulch will help retain soil moisture and control weeds. A spring spinach crop will bolt, or flower, and become bitter when day length increases and temperatures reach 80 degrees F. When this happens, pull out the plants and compost them. Fall crops have a much longer harvest window. In fact, spinach will continue to produce until temperatures reach 20 degrees F and in many areas, it can grow through the winter or start producing again as temps warm in spring.

How to harvest and store spinach

You can harvest both baby and mature spinach leaves. Pinch or cut the outer leaves at the base, leaving the inner ones to continue growing. After harvesting, wash leaves to remove soil and grit, then spin or pat dry. (You might need to wash crinkly savoy types more than once.) Store spinach in the refrigerator in a plastic bag or container lined with dry paper towels to absorb moisture. This keeps spinach fresh for about a week.

Try these spinach varieties

'Bloomsdale Longstanding’ spinach (in photo)
Medium to dark green leaves are fully savoyed and have a rich nutty flavor; heirloom variety; slow to bolt; overwinters (40 days to maturity)

‘Equinox’ spinach
Fully savoyed, dark green leaves have an earthy nutty flavor; fast growing; slow to bolt; overwinters (29 days to maturity)

‘Indian Summer’ spinach
Dark green, semi-savoy, arrowhead-shaped leaves with mild slightly sweet, nutty flavor; slow to bolt (40 days to maturity)

‘Kolibri’ spinach
Medium to dark green leaves are semi-savoy and have a mild nutty flavor; slow to bolt (29 days to maturity)

‘Red Tabby’ spinach (in photo)
Smooth, spade-shaped, dark green leaves with bright red veins have a slightly bitter, earthy nutty taste; slow to bolt; overwinters (31 days to maturity)

‘Regiment’ spinach
Dark green, arrowhead-shaped, semi-savoyed leaves have a sweet nutty flavor; high yielding, slow to bolt (40 days to maturity)

‘Space’ spinach
Medium green leaves are smooth to slightly savoyed with a slightly earthy, sweet nutty flavor; doesn’t bruise as easily as other smooth-leaf types; slow to bolt (25 days to maturity)

There are thousands of types of sweet and hot peppers grown around the world in an incredible range of flavors, heat levels, colors, and fruit shapes and sizes. Read on to learn about six of the most popular types of peppers to grow in the garden.

There are two main types of peppers: sweet and hot

Sweet peppers

Sweet peppers have little to no heat and a flavor that runs from mild to fruity. The immature fruits of most varieties of sweet peppers are green and ripen to rich hues of red, orange, yellow, purple, white, and even chocolate brown. Large bell pepper plants produce 5 to 10 fruits each, while mini fruiting varieties typically yield several dozen peppers per plant.

Hot peppers

Hot peppers, also called chilis, really kick it up a notch! They run from the mildly spicy poblano to the five-alarm fire of a Carolina Reaper, which has a Scoville heat unit of 2.2 million. Yikes! (Learn more about this spiciness rating system in “Scoville Scale” below). Some favorite hot peppers include jalapeño and cayenne varieties, which are so versatile in the kitchen.

Measure pepper heat with Scoville Scale

The Scoville scale, developed by Wilbur Scoville in 1912, measures the hotness of a pepper, given in Scoville heat units (SHU). Capsaicin is the compound in peppers that produces a burning sensation. Knowing where a pepper ranks on the scale of 0 (sweet bell peppers) to 16,000,000 (pure capsaicin), you can choose ones that are best for your heat tolerance. Take a look at the graphic to see how different peppers rank on the scale.

Tips for handling hot peppers safely

Hot peppers contain capsaicin, a compound that gives them their heat. Here are a few tips for handling hot peppers safely:

• When slicing and dicing hot peppers, be sure to wear gloves to protect your skin. Once finished, carefully remove the gloves and wash your hands.
• If you do come in contact with the oils of a hot pepper, scrub your hands with dish soap as soon as possible, lathering well. Repeat several times.
• Avoid rubbing your eyes!

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Popular types of sweet peppers

Sweet peppers have little to no heat and a sweet fruity flavor. Here are a few different varieties I like to grow.

Bell peppers

Bell peppers are essential in the kitchen and the garden! They’re grown for their thick, crunchy flesh that has a mild, sweet flavor, and can be enjoyed both unripe (green) and ripe (red, orange and yellow).

• ‘Candy Snax Mini Pepper Mixture’ bell pepper
  Mini bell peppers are fun to grow and eat! The pint-sized peppers grow 2 to 3 inches long in candy-colored hues of orange, red, yellow and chocolate. (Ripe 70 days green, 80 days red from transplanting)
  

• ‘Majestic Red’ bell pepper (in photo)
  This disease-resistant variety boasts large to extra-large peppers that mature to a bright candy red. The large blocky fruits have thick walls and a satisfying crunch. (Ripe 75 days green, 85 days red from transplanting)
  

Corno di Toro peppers

Corno di toro sweet peppers are also known as bulls-horn or Italian frying pepper and produces long, conical fruits 4 to 12 inches long, depending on the variety. The plants are tall, vigorous, and wellbranched for a generous harvest.

• ‘Carmen’ corno di toro pepper
  Carmen is an award-winning variety that is early to mature — perfect for short season gardens. The tapered peppers are 2½ inches across at the shoulder and grow 6 inches long. They ripen from green to bright cherry red. (Ripe 60 days green, 80 days red from transplanting)
  

• ‘Cornito Giallo’ corno di toro pepper (in photo)
  I fell in love with this variety in 2016 and have been growing it ever since. Why? The glossy golden peppers are exceptionally sweet and delicious grilled, fried, roasted, or straight from the garden. (Ripe 55 days green, 75 days red from transplanting)
  

Banana peppers

Sweet banana peppers are fun to grow — and eat! As the name suggests, they resemble bananas with long tapered shapes and yellow-green skin as they begin to mature. They have a mild flavor, crunchy flesh, are are typically eaten fresh or pickled. Harvest banana peppers at the yellow-green stage or leave them on the plant to ripen fully.

• ‘Goddess’ banana pepper
  ‘Goddess’ is a hybrid banana pepper variety with 8 to 9 inch long, mild- tasting fruits. Excellent for pickling. (Ripe 63 days yellow, 83 days red from transplanting)
  

• ‘Sweet Banana’ banana pepper (in photo)
  An award-winning heirloom variety that yields 6- to 7-inch-long fruits that are mild and delicious. A great variety for pickling. (Ripe 72 days from transplanting)
  

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Popular types of Hot chili peppers

Hot peppers can run from mildly spicy to fire alarm fiery! Here are some of our favorites to try:

Jalapeño peppers

If I could only grow one type of hot pepper, it would be jalapeños. I use the medium-hot fruits on top of nachos and tacos, chopped in chili and salsa, and baked in cornbread. Jalapeños are typically harvested while glossy green. Scoville heat units: 2,500 to 8,000.

• ‘Jedi’ jalapeño (in photo)
  Vigorous, disease-resistant plants that set fruits continuously from midsummer until frost. Plus, the glossy green peppers are huge — up to 5 inches long and produced in abundance. (Ripe 72 days from transplanting)
  

• ‘Pot-a-peno’ jalapeño
  Small space space? No problem! Ultra compact ‘Pot-a-peno’ plants grow 12 to 15 inches tall and are perfect for containers and hanging baskets. Expect a generous harvest of 3- to 4-inch long jalapeño peppers. (Ripe 60 days from transplanting)
  

Cayenne peppers

Cayenne peppers are super versatile and I use them fresh in the kitchen or dry the fruits for hot pepper flakes. The slender peppers grow 2 to 6 inches long, depending on the variety, and pack a moderate to high heat. Scoville heat units: 30,000 to 50,000.

• ‘Fiesta Cayenne Blend’
  Grow a rainbow of 3-inch-long hot peppers with ‘Fiesta Cayenne Blend’, a mix that includes red, yellow, purple, green and orange varieties. These compact plants are ideal for pots and windowboxes. (Ripe 80 days from transplanting)
• ‘Red Flame’ (in photo)
  ‘Red Flame’ is a classic cayenne with fire engine-red fruits. I grow it for its high productivity — each plant produces dozens of 6-inch long peppers. (Ripe 80 days from transplanting)
  

Habanero peppers

Habanero peppers are known for their fiery heat and citrusy flavor which makes them an essential ingredient in hot sauce, chili and spicy salsas. The fruits look like little lanterns and ripen from green to orange, yellow or red, depending on the variety. The seed can be slow to germinate, so sow them indoors 2 weeks earlier than other types of peppers. Scoville heat units: 150,000 to 325,000.

• Red habanero (in photo) Handle with care! The 3-foot-tall plants yield a heavy crop of scorching hot red fruits. (Ripe 100 days from transplanting)

• ‘Red Savina’ This little hottie produces up to 50 glossy red peppers per plant. They’re incredibly hot with a Scoville Heat Unit rating between 200,000 and 580,000! (Ripe 90 days from transplanting)
  

Sources for quality pepper seeds

• Burpee
• Johnny’s Selected Seeds
• Seed Savers Exchange
  
• John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds
• Renee’s Garden Seeds
• Southern Exposure Seed Exchange

It doesn’t matter if you prefer the sweet crunch of a bell pepper or the fiery heat of a habanero, you’ll find growing your own peppers is easy and rewarding. Both sweet and hot peppers grow on plants that are productive, but also beautiful with glossy fruits in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors.

Pepper (Capsicum annuum)

When to plant seedlings: In late spring when soil temperatures are at least 65 degrees F
Light: Full sun
When to harvest: When the fruits are the mature size and desired color, 80 to 100 days from transplanting
Yields: Sweet bell peppers produce 5 to 10 fruits per plant, hot peppers can produce 20 to 40 fruits per plant
Problems Bacterial leaf spot, blossom end rot, sunscald

Get started with planting peppers

Peppers are a heat- and sun-loving vegetable and need a long growing season to mature. Because of this, they’re typically grown from seeds started indoors or purchased as transplants from garden centers in late spring.

Many gardeners prefer to start their own seeds because it gives them so many more variety choices. You don’t need a big garden to grow peppers. While some plant them in raised beds, you can also grow them in pots and fabric planters on a sunny back deck. Select a pot at least 12 inches across or turn an old 5-gallon bucket into a pepper pot (just be sure to add drainage holes to the bottom).

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Tips for growing peppers

Peppers aren’t difficult to grow and will thrive when given plenty of sun, fertile soil and consistent moisture. If you meet their needs, by mid- to late summer you’ll be enjoying a peck of homegrown sweet and hot peppers.

How to start pepper seeds indoors

If you’ll be starting from seed, it’s important to sow pepper seeds indoors at the right time. For sweet and hot peppers, that’s 8 weeks before the last spring frost date. Plant superhot peppers, like Carolina Reaper, 10 weeks before the frost date to account for their slower seed germination and growth rates.

Provide pepper seedlings with heat and light

If you have a heated seedling mat, place the pots or trays on top of it to increase soil temperature. Warm soil speeds up sprouting and also increases germination rates. When about half of the seedlings have emerged, remove the mat.

To grow strong and stocky, pepper seedlings need at least 16 hours of light each day. You can use an LED grow light, turning it on and off with an inexpensive timer. Keep the growing medium lightly moist and once the true leaves emerge, fertilize pepper seedlings with a diluted liquid organic fertilizer every 10 to 14 days.

Transplant and stake your pepper seedlings

After the last expected frost date, gradually acclimate seedlings to outdoor temperatures, then plant them in the garden. Peppers need a site with 8 to 10 hours of direct sun each day. They also prefer well-draining, fertile soil with a pH around 6.5. I work a slow-release organic vegetable fertilizer into the soil at planting time.

Pepper plant spacing

Space plants 12 to 18 inches apart in rows spaced 2 to 3 feet apart. Use a stake or tomato cage to keep plants upright, increase air flow and reduce the risk of plant damage in windy weather.

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Water and fertilize your pepper plantings

The best way to figure out if it’s time to water is to stick your finger into the soil. If it’s dry 2 inches down, grab your hose and water the soil, not the plant. Potted peppers will need to be watered more often than in-ground plants.

Consistent moisture is key. Water-stressed peppers are prone to blossom end rot, which shows up as leathery dark patches on the bottoms of the fruits. Mulch the soil around your peppers to retain soil moisture. About a month after planting you can start to fertilize pepper plants every 2 to 3 weeks with a liquid organic fish and seaweed fertilizer. It doesn’t smell so great, but it does help ensure plenty of peppers!

Common pepper problems

In addition to the usual insect pests in a vegetable garden, here are a few problems specific to peppers:

Blossom drop

It’s frustrating when pepper flowers fall off instead of ripening into delicious fruits. Overwatering, cool night temperatures and daytime temperatures over 90 degrees F are all potential causes for blossom drop. If high temperatures are the issue, float a shade cloth on hoops over plants until the heat passes.

Sunscald

Sunscald is caused by the sudden exposure of young fruits to the sun. It first appears as white to brown papery patches like you see above and soon the pepper begins to rot. It’s not uncommon when a plant has lost leaves due to a foliar disease.

Bacterial leaf spot

This devastating disease causes leaf loss and stunted or deformed fruits. If it’s been a problem in the past, plant resistant pepper varieties, practice crop rotation, and space plants far enough apart to ensure good air flow to avoid bacterial leaf spot.

How to harvest and preserve your pepper crop

A homegrown pepper harvest starts about two months after transplanting and soon you'll be picking sweet and hot peppers every day. Sweet peppers are ready to pick when they reach their mature size and color. If you prefer, you can harvest sweet peppers when green, but some prefer them to be fully ripe and super sweet.

Pepper harvesting tips

Harvest hot peppers when they reach their full size. Some, like jalapeños are picked when still green, while others, like cayennes are harvested when fully ripe and red. Check your seed packet for specific advice. It’s best to clip ripe peppers from the plants using garden snips or pruners. Don’t yank or tug the fruits, as this can damage the branches or knock off immature fruits still on the plant.

Ways to preserve your pepper harvest

Depending on the type, surplus peppers can be dehydrated, pickled, frozen or turned into a fiery hot sauce. Some like to dehydrate cayenne peppers, grinding them into hot pepper flakes. Jalapeno and sweet peppers are washed, chopped, bagged and tossed in the freezer for winter meals.

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Rhubarb growing guide

Wouldn’t you love a plant in your vegetable garden that you didn’t have to start every year? Get a rhubarb patch going, and you’ll have plenty of this tasty fruit every spring and summer for pies, jams, sauces and syrups.

As a bonus, the plants are beautiful, with vibrant red stems and enormous green leaves. Here are four things you need to know to successfully grow this classic perennial. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or a beginner, follow these tips for success and you’ll be able to enjoy its vibrant stems for many seasons, in both the garden and the kitchen.

Rhubarb (Rheum x hybridum)

Type Perennial
When to plant In early spring, when soil temperatures reach 50 degrees F, or in late fall when crowns are dormant
How many to plant One plant is enough for fresh eating and preserving for a family of four.
Light Full sun to part shade
Soil Fertile, moist, well draining
When to harvest When stalks are 12 to 18 inches long after the second or third year
Cold hardy USDA zones 3 to 8

Common rhubarb myth

MYTH: The entire rhubarb plant becomes poisonous by midsummer.
FACT: While the stems are never toxic, rhubarb leaves are poisonous in every season; don’t eat them!

Where is the best place to plant rhubarb?

Rhubarb thrives in full sun with fertile, moist, well-drained soil. Grow plants in an isolated spot where the roots won’t be disturbed from foot traffic or at the front of a border, where they’ll have room to spread. If you’re not sure which rhubarb variety is the best fit for your garden, check out a few commonly available varieties and the difference between them in “Different types of rhubarb to try!” below.

Even gardeners in zone 3 can count on rhubarb to be cold hardy. Although plants are super long- lived in northern gardens, in zones 7 and warmer, instead of full sun, plant in part shade to help prevent foliage scorch in summer’s heat. In zones 9 and warmer, treat rhubarb like a winter annual and harvest in March or April.

Grow rhubarb from crowns

You can start a rhubarb patch from seed, but the easiest way is to buy 1-year-old crowns or get divisions from a friend. Plant crowns 3 feet apart and 4 inches deep — crowding may encourage crown rot or powdery mildew. If you’re taking divisions, to reduce the risk of transplant shock, dig up the entire plant in early spring as soon as plants are starting to emerge or when it’s dormant in late fall. With a spade or a soil knife, split each plant into sections with two to three leaves. Replant divisions with the largest root systems at the same depth they were growing before you dug them up, and water them in.

How to fertilize rhubarb

For thick stems and big leaves, sprinkle a balanced granular fertilizer or spread 1 to 2 inches of aged manure around plants in early spring, avoiding the crown so the fertilizer doesn’t burn emerging growth.

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Different types of rhubarb to try!

Whether you're looking for classic, stringless or heat-tolerant varieties, there is a rhubarb for you. Check out a few of our favorites below:

‘Chipman’s Canada Red’ rhubarb
Heat-tolerant, 2- to 3-foot-tall-and-wide plants produce high yields of long, thick, deep red stalks. When cooked, the naturally sweet stalks maintain their color.

‘Crimson Red’ rhubarb
Stringless, brilliant crimson-red stalks produce a sweet and tart flavor on 2- to 4-foot-tall and 2- to 3-foot-wide plants. Shown above. Budded Root Divisions Available from Renee's Garden Seeds.

Hardy Tarty^™ rhubarb
Heat-tolerant, thick, nonstringy red stalks with exceptionally tart flavor. 24- to 36-inch-tall and 24-to 30-inch-wide plants.

KangaRhu^™ rhubarb
Heat-tolerant variety that produces dark red stalks that maintain color and flavor well when cooked. Plants are 24 to 36 inches tall and 24 to 30 inches wide.

‘MacDonald’ rhubarb
Tender red stalks are fast growing and highly resistant to root rot and wilt disease. Plants are 2 to 3 feet tall and 3 to 4 feet wide.

‘Victoria’ rhubarb
Heirloom variety that’s easy to grow from seed. Plants produce tender, thick, bright crimson and green stalks with a mild sweet flavor and no stringiness. Plants are 30 to 36 inches tall and 24 to 36 inches wide.

Rhubarb sources

• Gurney’s Seeds & Nursery Co.
• Jung Seeds, 800-247-5864
• Renee’s Garden Seeds, 888-880-7228

How to harvest rhubarb

If plants are grown from crowns, begin harvesting rhubarb in the second year, but if they were started from seed, wait until the third year to harvest. In late spring, when a stalk is 12 to 18 inches long, hold it firmly at the base, twist and pull to harvest. Cutting stems increases the risk of spreading disease, and leftover stubs are potential points of entry for pests. Harvest just a few stems at a time to avoid exhausting the plant. Remove leaves immediately to prevent stalks from wilting, wrap the stems in a damp paper towel inside a plastic bag, and store stems in the refrigerator until you’re ready to use them.

Stop harvesting in early summer when the plant is no longer sending up new stalks or you’ll reduce the quality and yield of next year’s crop. In summer, mature plants (three years or older) will start to bolt, or flower. Cut off their blooms so energy can go back to the crown for next year’s growth.

Did you know you can force rhubarb?

If you wish you could harvest rhubarb even earlier, try using a forcing pot! It's an easy and simple way for rhubarb enthusiasts to enjoy those sweet stalks even sooner. Learn more about how to force rhubarb here.

Grow vegetables you can also preserve

Meg Cowden’s spends a lot of time in her Minnesota vegetable garden. Using a variety of succession planting techniques, her goal is to grow enough food to feed and preserve for her family. Learn about how she maximizes her harvest with succession planting. Meg plants a variety of vegetables in her garden every season and I asked her to share a few plants that she loves to grow, eat and preserve from her garden each year. Read on for some of her recommendations.

Cranberry bean (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Cranberry bean is a stunning multi-purposed dry bean. Seeds can be sown every 2 weeks from early spring to midsummer for a continual harvest. This variety is a mix between a bush bean and a pole bean: Plants don’t have tendrils to climb trellises, but they grow up to 6 feet tall and will need to be staked using a trellis like the one above for support. Just guide the beans up your desired structure.

Cranberry beans are typically grown as a shelling bean, they can also be harvested immature and eaten fresh as a string bean. For drying and storage for later use, allow the pods to turn brown on the plant. Cranberry beans mature in 70 to 80 days.

Seed Source:Territorial Seed Company, 800-626-0866

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‘Tom Thumb’ corn (Zea mays)

Meg describes ‘Tom Thumb’ corn as an “adorable, fun and easy-to-grow crop that is smaller in size and matures quickly.” ‘Tom Thumb’ grows only 3 feet tall and produces a classic yellow kernel. These plants need full sun; fertile, well-draining soil, and lots of water! Seeds can be directly sown in the garden after the danger of frost has passed, and plants mature in 84 days.

If you grow both sweet corn and popcorn, make sure they tassel at different times, or grow the types at least 250 feet apart. Otherwise, they may cross pollinate and the sweet corn probably won’t taste as good. To harvest the popcorn, let the husks dry on the stalks, then pull them and let them sit in the pantry for a few months before popping the kernels.

Seed Source:Seed Savers Exchange, 563-382-5990

‘Amarillo’ aji pepper (Capsicum baccatum)

‘Amarillo’ is a Peruvian yellow chile pepper with a vibrant orange-yellow skin and fruity flavor as well as sweet, slightly tart and tropical hints. But it also packs on the heat! ‘Amarillo’ is great fresh from the garden, roasted or can even be dried and ground into a spice to use later.

The fruit is 4 to 5 inches long and takes about 120 days to mature, so sow seeds early indoors before you transplant them into the garden. These plants can grow up to 5 feet tall and become top heavy: Stake them early for extra support. ‘Amarillo’ can tolerate slightly alkaline soil but grows best in full sun in a neutral soil. Keep plants well watered throughout the growing season.

Seed Source:Pepper Joe’s, 888-660-2276

‘Goldrush’ wax bean (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Growing up to 3 feet tall and 1 foot wide, this wax bean variety has straight, tender golden- yellow 5-inch-long pods. The beans are super easy to harvest and can be preserved by freezing or canning.

This variety takes about 54 days to mature, making them great for repeat sowing from late spring to midsummer for a few harvests throughout the growing season. Plant these in full sun and well-draining soil for best results. This variety is disease-resistant to bean mosaic and curly top viruses.

Seed Source:John Scheepers Kitchen Garden Seeds, 860-567-6086

Tiara’ cabbage (Brassica oleracea)

A single mini ‘Tiara’ cabbage is the perfect size for feeding Meg’s family of four. It produces small 1- to 3-pound heads that are tender, sweet, crisp and juicy. ‘Tiara’ prefers growing in the cooler weather of spring and fall, and this early maturing variety is great for gardeners looking to extend their growing season and get more out of their space.

‘Tiara’ requires consistent moisture for best results, but to prevent fungal disease, try to avoid overhead watering; wet foliage is a breeding ground for diseases. It is great fresh as coleslaw and in salads or canned and preserved as sauerkraut. Seeds can be started indoors as transplants or sown directly into the garden. This variety takes 50 to 60 days to mature.

Seed SourceJohnny’s Selected Seeds, 877-564-6697

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Growing asparagus

Asparagus is one of the first crops you can harvest in spring, and because it’s a long-lived perennial, you can count on those sweet, crisp spears every year for decades. By midsummer its tall feathery foliage adds beautiful texture to the garden before it sets seed and goes dormant after a hard frost. You’ll need time, patience and a few special techniques to get a good asparagus patch going. This guide can help.

Asparagus (Asparagus officinalis)

Type Perennial
When to plant In early spring when soil temperatures reach 45 degrees F
How many to plant For fresh eating, 5 to 10 plants for an individual, 25 plants for a family of four
Light Full sun, can tolerate part shade
Soil Rich, well drained
When to harvest After the second or third year, when spears are 6 to 8 in. tall
Hardiness Cold hardy USDA zones 3 to 10

Choose the right spot to plant

Although plants can tolerate part shade, asparagus grows more vigorously with 6 to 8 hours of full sun each day. Good soil drainage is another must, as roots rot easily in soggy soil. They are especially sensitive to soil compaction and root disturbance, so plant them in a raised bed or a spot where its tall foliage won’t shade out nearby sun-loving companions.

Plants are cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 10, so gardeners in almost all parts of North America can grow asparagus. However, some varieties do better in different climates. Learn more in “The Right Variety for Your Zone” at below.

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Find the right type of asparagus for your cold zone

In zones 3 to 5 choose late-emerging varieties that are less likely to be damaged by spring frosts:

• ‘Jersey Giant’
• ‘Jersey King’
• ‘Jersey Knight’
• ‘Millennium’
• ‘Purple Passion’

In zones 6 to 10 choose varieties that tolerate summer heat well:

• ‘Apollo’
• ‘Atlas’
• ‘Erasmus’
• ‘Grande’
• ‘Spartacus’
• UC 157

How to start an asparagus patch

The quickest and most reliable way to start an asparagus patch is to buy crowns, which are 1-year-old plants. Most of the plants you can buy are male hybrids, which live longer than female plants, produce no seeds, and grow a greater number of small, uniform spears. Plant as soon as soil can be worked (about 45 degrees F) in early spring.

Store crowns in the refrigerator until you’re ready to plant. Then soak the crowns in a bucket of water for an hour to hydrate them before they go into the ground. Fertilizer, compost and mulch can help get your plants off to a great start. Follow the step-by-step planting guide below to find out when and where to use them.

Step 1. Cultivate the right environment

To start an asparagus patch and dig a trench 12 to 18 inches deep and 6 to 8 inches wide instead of individual planting holes. This makes it easier to amend the soil all at once and ensures the entire patch gets the same amount of nutrients. Next, spread a layer of fertilizer at the bottom of the trench, then cover it with 2 inches of soil before placing crowns. You don't want the fertilizer touching the roots or it could cause burn.

Step 2. Plant the asparagus crowns

To plant crowns, spread the roots out over mounded soil at the bottom of the trench. Make sure to place plants 12 inches apart measuring from the center of the crown.

3. Refill the trench

After you've placed your asparagus crowns in the trench, cover them with soil and topdress with 2 to 3 inches of compost or manure. Add 2 inches of straw mulch to help keep weeds down and even soil moisture, then water in.

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How to care for an asparagus patch

Generally, asparagus plants need about an inch of water per week, either from rainfall or irrigation. Deep, infrequent waterings encourage roots to grow deeper, so plants tolerate dry spells better. They’re heavy feeders and benefit from annual applications of a balanced, all-purpose granular fertilizer, following label directions. Top dress with 2 to 3 inches of compost or manure in early spring before spears start to emerge.

It’s important to keep weed competition down, especially as a new patch is getting established. In early spring, apply a 1- to 2-inch layer of straw mulch to help prevent weeds and retain moisture in the soil. Even if you mulch, weeds can still creep in. If that happens, you may need to carefully hand pull or hoe weeds lightly.

Tips for harvesting asparagus

Although you might be anxious to harvest spears as soon as you see them the first year, wait two or three years before you start harvesting to give plants time to establish and grow into a more vigorous patch.

In the second or third year, harvest spears when they are 6 to 8 inches tall and tips are still tightly closed like the one in the photo above. Check plants every day or two because the spears can grow quickly! After 6 or 8 weeks, stop harvesting and let any new spears that form go to seed. The ferny foliage that forms later will photosynthesize and store energy for next year’s growth. When the foliage turns yellow or brown in fall, cut it back to within 2 inches of the ground. Add a 4- to 6-inch layer of straw mulch to protect the crowns in winter, then remove it before spears emerge in spring.

How to grow white asparagus

You can get tender gourmet-delicacy white asparagus by depriving spears of light as they emerge in early spring. This is traditionally done by covering the spears with soil, but you can use other materials too. Dark plastic tunnels or sheeting, mulch or a pot with no holes will give you the same result with a little less effort.

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Did you know you can force rhubarb?

Rhubarb is one of the earliest plants to pop up in the garden when spring arrives. It's easy to grow and you don't have to plant it year after year. This means you’ll have plenty of this tasty fruit every spring and summer for pies, jams, sauces and syrups.

Rhubarb is typically ready for harvest in late spring or when stalks are 12 to 18 inches tall. Stop harvesting in early summer when the plant is no longer sending up new stalks. But did you know you can get an even earlier harvest by using a forcing rhubarb jar or a pot? This is a great way to extend the harvest season so you can enjoy those delicious spears for even longer!

Does forced rhubarb taste different?

Forcing rhubarb refers to growing rhubarb in darkness. This method creates a warm environment and causes plants to break dormancy while accelerating the plant's growth as the stalks search for light. This process produces stalks that are more tender, less stringy and sweeter than they would be if grown in full sun. Follow the steps below to force your own rhubarb.

Where to find a rhubarb forcing pot

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How to force rhubarb

Select Mature Rhubarb Plants

Forcing is best done with rhubarb plants that are at least two years old. Mature plants are able to handle the stress of forced growth, but this method should only be used one time on a single plant. (Don't do it every year.)

When to Force Rhubarb Plants

Begin forcing rhubarb in late winter when plants are still dormant.

Cover the Plant

Use a forcing jar or a large nursery pot to cover the rhubarb so no light can reach the plant.

When to Harvest Forced Rhubarb Stalks

In about 4 to 6 weeks, the rhubarb stalks will be ready to harvest. They'll be pale pink and yellow and have a more delicate flavor and less acidity than unforced rhubarb. Remove the rhubarb forcing pot after 7 or 8 weeks. After removing the forcing pot, allow the plant to grow normally in the sunlight to help it recover and store energy for the next season.

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Give your garden and your plate a fresh look and taste with these new fruit and vegetable varieties!

Fruit Snacks^™ apple (Malus hybrid)

You can grow your own apples even in a small yard with this new series, which features compact plants easy to squeeze into any sunny border. Tangy Green^™ (above right) has pink-to-white spring blooms with a tart flavor, similar to a Granny Smith. Tasty Red^™ (above left) has pink spring flowers that yield apples with a sweet juicy flavor. There are four other varieties in the series: All Red^™, Blushing Delight^™, Golden Treat^™ and Sweet Tart^™.

Type Tree
Yields Six varieties with a range of colors and flavors on columnar trees
Light Full sun
Soil Well drained
Size 10 to 14 ft. tall, 3 to 5 ft. wide
Cold hardy USDA zones 5 to 8
IntroducerPlants Nouveau
Source Local garden centers

Gourmansun Sunrise & Gourmandia Red beefsteak tomatoes (Lycopersicon hybrids)

We got loads of fruit from these beefsteak tomatoes last summer. Everyone loved the distinctive shape, color and sweet flavor. They were super meaty and could be used in a similar way as paste tomatoes. Both varieties are indeterminate, taking 85 days until you can harvest the beautiful 10-ounce fruits.

Type Annual
Yields 10-oz. red or red-and yellow heart-shaped tomatoes
Light Full sun
Soil Well drained
Size 60 to 72 in. tall; indeterminate plants
IntroducerBurpee^® Home Gardens
Source Local garden centers

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‘Pastel Duo’ baby turnip (Brassica rapa)

There’s no need to peel to enjoy the mild, sweet taste of this tiny pink or white turnip that looks more like a radish. Harvest and eat them in a salad or as a crisp and crunchy snack. You can even cut and sauté the green tops.

Type Annual
Yields Small pink or white turnips
Light Full sun
Soil Well drained
Size Sow seeds 1 in. apart and thin to 3 in. in spring or late summer
Introducer & SourceRenee’s Garden, reneesgarden.com, 888-880-7228

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While your baskets are filling with long-awaited tomatoes, zucchini and peppers, you might not be thinking about the months to come. But the garden season doesn’t have to end when the weather cools off. Midsummer is the perfect time to start plants for a second harvest. Here are five crops you can grow right now and enjoy in a couple of months. Happy harvesting!

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Bush Beans (Phaseolus vulgaris)

Bush beans are super easy to grow, don’t require trellising like pole beans do, and mature faster. This makes them perfect for a second quick crop before a frost shuts them down.

When to plant

Depending on the variety, bush beans take 50 to 60 days to mature, so to give yourself time to harvest, count back at least 75 days from your average first frost date to find the best time to plant seeds. They germinate best between 70 and 80 degrees F. If you’re going through a hot, dry spell when it’s time to plant, you might choose to start seeds indoors and transplant seedlings into the garden when outdoor temps are regularly between 65 and 85 degrees F.

Which varieties to grow

Look for bush bean varieties with shorter maturity times, such as ‘Tenderpod’, which takes 50 to 55 days from germination to maturity. Varieties with the word “early” in the name are usually good choices for a fall crop.

Bush bean growing tips

Expect to harvest bush beans for up to 2 weeks. If a light frost is in the forecast, protect plants by covering them with landscape fabric and mulching the roots.

Sweet basil (Ocimum basilicum)

By midsummer, basil is usually sending up flowers and setting seed. Although basil isn’t a cool-season crop, now is the perfect time to plant another round so you can keep the harvest going until temperatures regularly drop below 50 degrees F, when plants start to decline.

When to plant

If you start seeds, sow them 60 to 90 days before you want to harvest, depending on the variety. If you can keep the seed bed moist, sow directly in the garden. If not, start them indoors and move transplants outdoors later when seedlings have emerged. Even easier, just pick up a few packs of seedlings from the garden center and plant them in the garden in summer so you can keep harvesting into fall.

Which varieties to grow

Lemon basil (Ocimum basilicum var. citriodorum) and ‘Purple Ruffles’ (Ocimum basilicum var. purpurascens) are two of the best cool-weather performers and can handle temperatures below 50 degrees F.

Sweet basil growing tips

Plant in a warm, sunny spot, and apply a 2-inch layer of mulch to the base of the plant to help keep soil and roots warm when air temperatures begin to drop. Or grow basil in pots, and bring plants indoors to keep them going longer.

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Carrots (Daucus spp. and hybrids)

Carrots thrive in cooler temperatures and are tolerant of frost. While their green tops might take a hit from the cold, the roots will keep growing, and they actually taste sweeter after a light frost. Just make sure to wrap up your harvest before night temperatures are regularly 28 degrees F or below, because after that, the roots become hard and bitter.

When to plant

Starting in midsummer, sow seeds every week until 6 to 8 weeks before your average first frost date.

Which varieties to grow

Grow fast-maturing carrot varieties that take 45 to 65 days from seed to harvest, such as ‘Napoli’, ‘Royal Chantenay’, ‘Little Finger’ and ‘New Kuroda’.

Carrot growing tips

Plant carrots in loose soil in an area that receives full sun. Keep your soil moist and cool by applying a 6-inch layer of straw after germination so the seedlings don’t dry out.

Lettuce (Lactuca sativa)

Lettuce is a great fall crop because of its ability to handle temperatures as low as 32 degrees F before plants succumb to the cold.

When to plant

Lettuce grows best between 45 and 65 degrees F, and typically only needs 30 to 70 days from seed to harvest. This means you can wait a little longer to start them than some of the other plants here. Keep in mind that seeds germinate best when soil temperatures are between 70 and 75 degrees F, so as the weather cools off in fall, you might want to start them indoors and set plants in the garden once they’re established.

Which varieties to grow

All types of lettuce are fast growers and good candidates for fall planting and harvest. Try varieties like ‘Red Incised’, ‘Green Butter’ and ‘Red Sweet Crisp’.

Lettuce growing tips

Add an inch or two of organic mulch, such as straw, after seeds have germinated or after you set transplants out, to keep soil temperatures cool and moist. This also helps protect plants from last-minute heat waves. If you’re expecting a light frost (28 to 32 degrees F), cover the lettuce with burlap, landscape fabric or row cover to protect plants from frost damage.

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Snow peas (Pisum sativum)

You should be able to continue to harvest snow peas until the first frost, but the harvest will slow down as days grow shorter through fall.

When to plant

Seeds germinate best between 45 and 75 degrees F, and plants grow best between 55 and 65 degrees F. Count back 70 days from your first predicted frost date to decide when to plant. Snow peas are heat sensitive: If outdoor temperatures are still warm, provide extra shade using a row cover.

Which varieties to grow

Snow peas take 50 to 60 days to mature, but they can be enjoyed at any stage, which gives you a longer harvesting window. Eat them when they are young and tender, or wait until they mature.

Snow pea growing tip

In late fall, protect them from frost damage by covering with burlap or landscape fabric.