Reader Tips: Smart Spring Repurposing Ideas

Easy upcycled raised garden beds using IBC tanks

Arthritis makes gardening in low beds or at ground level difficult for Sheryl. When she saw some used industrial liquid containers, called IBC (intermediate bulk container) tanks, for sale online, she got an idea. With the help of her son, she cut one container in half to make two raised beds. A reciprocating saw or circular saw work well for cutting the metal bars and the plastic container, but even most handsaws can do the trick.

Tips to create IBC tank raised beds

Most IBC tanks are about 48×40×40 inches. Cut in half, they’re about 20 inches high. You might find that some already have a large drainage hole in the bottom, but it’s likely that you’ll have to drill five or six holes across the base. Used IBC tanks may have some remaining residue, so it’s a good idea to scrub them down with soapy water. Put the containers in place, fill them up with potting mix and plant away!

You should be able to find some of these tanks online on secondhand sites, such as Craigslist or Facebook. Search “IBC tank” or “IBC tote.” Most are sold in the $50 to $100 range. That’s a pretty fine deal for a tall, accessible garden bed!

Photo & tip submitted by Sheryl Fullner, WA

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Mess-free bird feeders

Birds can leave a big mess under the feeders hung on shepherd’s hooks in Sylvia’s backyard. So she tucked a small plastic kiddie pool underneath to catch the fallen hulls and excess seeds and prevent unwanted plants from sprouting in the garden. When the pool starts to fill up, it's easy to dump the contents into the compost pile. Sylvia has camouflaged the pool with taller perennials planted along the front of the bed.

Tip submitted by Sylvia Street, IA

Keep emerging lilies safe from rabbits in spring

A bunny’s munching habits can ruin a garden in no time. That’s why Joan came up with a way to protect her lilies as they emerge: Just grab a paper grocery bag and four plant stakes. Cut the bottom out of the bag to fit it over the plant. (It might help to leave an inch or so around the perimeter on the bottom.) Then you can drive the plant stakes into the corners inside the bag to keep it in place and prevent the bag from flopping or blowing away. Mound an inch or two of soil around the edges of the bag for extra security.

Leave the bag in place for about a week, or until the plant has grown enough that the leaves and stems are no longer tender and new. This might mean that the plant has grown several inches or a significant number of the leaves have unfurled and matured.

Photo & tip submitted by Joan Pierro, MA

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Quick Garden Tip

To remedy the splaying stems of a geranium plant, Kathleen popped some dried agapanthus (Agapanthus africanus) flower stems into her containers for support. The small prongs of the seedheads prop up floppy flowers for a tidier container.

Photo & tip submitted by Kathleen Durkee, MA

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Garden tools, like shovels, are most often made with carbon steel. Known for its strength, it's the optimal material for cutting, slicing, and digging through plant material and soil. However, the main component of carbon steel is iron, so exposure to oxygen and moisture over time will cause rust. Not properly cleaning your tools after use, or accidentally leaving a tool outside in rain or snow will cause that reddish-brown patina to make an appearance. But all is not lost. As long as the rust is still surface level, you can rid your tools of rust in a few steps.

What you'll need

Skip the trip to the hardware store and gather up these common household items:

• White vinegar
  
• Wire brush or coarse steel wool
  
• Old towel
  
• Plastic bag
  

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3 Easy steps to remove rust from a shovel

Step 1. Remove loose dirt and rust

Start the process by removing loose dirt and rust with a wire brush.

Step 2. Soak the shovel in vinegar

Wrap the blade snugly in an old towel, soak it with white vinegar (any strength will work), slip everything into a plastic bag and tie it shut. Soak up to 24 hours.

Step 3. Scour the surface of the tool with a stiff brush

After soaking the shovel, remove the tool and scour the surface with a stiff brush or coarse steel wool. If necessary, repeat the process. Once you’re done with the vinegar you can pour it down a drain.

Watch the process in our video!

See this poorly maintained shovel from our test garden come back to life after using the method listed above to remove the dirt and rust in our short video.

How to prevent rust on garden tools

To keep your tools strong, sharp, and efficient, avoid rust with some simple maintenance.

Clean your tools after each use

Removing soil and plant debris will help prevent rust on your tools as well as keep diseases, fungi, and weed seeds from spreading around your garden. A quick wash with a hose and drying with a cotton rag will often do the trick. If you're working with heavy, clay soil, a little scrubbing might be necessary.

Apply a little oil to your best garden tools

For your highest-quality tools, you might consider the extra step of applying oil to further prevent rust. Exposure to oxygen can still cause rust, even when tools are carefully washed and dried, and appling oil will create a barrier that stops them from oxidizing. There are several products available for this purpose, but mineral or vegetable oil are also good options.

Original Question submitted by Pat Alvarez, IN

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Elevate your garden with these raised bed garden kits that vary from super easy to install and requiring no tools to more intermediate setup. See which one is right for you from the lineup below.

Vioscapes^® Raised Garden Beds

This simple garden can be constructed in minutes almost anywhere, which makes it a great beginner kit. The interlocking composite planks are made of 40% reclaimed ocean plastics and 60% natural fibers, such as coffee husks. Compostable packaging is made with soy-based ink printing and eco-safe glues so you can use it to line the bottom and suppress weeds the first year. Choose from seven square or rectangle configurations in three color options.

Assembly tools: No tools required
Height options: 5 and 10 inches
Price: Kits start at $49
Source: Vioscapes, vioscapes.com

Vego^™ Garden Classic Collection Modular Metal Raised Garden Bed

Made of long-lasting coated steel, this raised bed will look great for years. It’s finished with food-grade paint, with seven colors to choose from. Panels can be assembled in under an hour into circles, rectangles or customizable shapes, such as a horseshoe.

Assembly tools: Cordless screwdriver and wrench
Height options: 11, 17 and 32 inches
Accessories: Extension panels, solar lights, trellis systems, pest covers, in-ground composter, irrigation systems
Price: Kits start at $99.95
Source: Vego^™ Garden, vegogarden.com or Amazon

Frame It All^™ Garden Bed Kit

Customize a raised bed to fit your needs with this system. Choose from simple rectangle kits to curved, multi-level beds, or go to the company’s website and design your own. Food-grade recycled plastic/hardwood fiber panels come in five colors. Hollow panel centers add insulation from cold and heat. Predrilled panels are secured to corner hinges with snap-in plugs — no hardware needed. The stackable panels interlock so they won’t bow or allow soil to sift between panels.

Assembly tools: Hammer or rubber mallet
Height options: 5½, 11, 16½ and 22 inches
Accessories: Animal barrier panels, trellis systems, cold frame kits
Price: Kits start at $44.99
Source: Frame It All, frameitall.com or Amazon

Lifetime Raised Bed Corners and Connectors

To customize your own bed size and shape, simply fasten milled boards of your choice into these predrilled, powder-coated aluminum right-angle corner brackets. Add inline three-way connectors to extend beds longer than one board allows. Purchase as a set of four or six to build a square or rectangle bed, or in pairs to customize the shape of the bed. Dark brown brackets are available in seven heights you can mix and match to create tiered beds.

Assembly tools: Cordless screwdriver, hardware included with brackets
Height options: 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 23 and 35 inches
Accessories: Inline three-way connectors
Price: Corner pairs start at $31.99
Source: Gardener’s Supply Company, gardeners.com or Amazon

Tips for flower pounding on fabric

Enjoy blooms from your garden year-round when you create botanical prints with flower pounding. In addition to these charming gift bags, you can make towels, tablecloths, shirts and even socks. This simple process starts with fresh flowers, a hammer and fabric made of natural fibers, such as cotton, linen, bamboo or hemp. Watch the video above and read the simple steps below to learn more about the flower pounding technique.

What you will need for this project

Materials

• Fabric item made of 100% natural fibers (We used 5×7 and 8×10 100% cotton gift bags)
• pH neutral detergent (We used Mrs. Meyer’s brand)
• Washing soda, or sodium carbonate (We used Arm & Hammer^™ All Natural Super Washing Soda)
• Alum, or aluminum potassium sulfate for mordant (We used a generic brand of Alum found in the spice aisle)
• Fresh flowers and foliage

Tools

• Small bucket
• Tweezers
• Hammer
• Cutting board or other flat surface for pounding
• Barrier cloth (We used an old pillowcase, but you could also use scrap fabric or a paper towel)
• Cardboard
• Iron and ironing board
• Sheet of paper

Step 1: Prepare the fabric for flower pounding

To ensure the fabric absorbs the color pigments from the flowers, use an all-natural fiber, and follow two preparatory steps:

• Start by scouring the fabric, which removes oils, waxes and impurities that might interfere with dye absorption.
• To scour, soak the fabric in a mixture of 1 teaspoon of pH-neutral detergent and 2 tablespoons of washing soda in 1 gallon of warm water. We soaked these bags for about five minutes before hand washing and rinsing until the water ran clean.
• Next, soak the fabric in a mordant solution, which helps bind the dye to the material. To do this, mix 1 gallon of hot water with 2 teaspoons of alum in a bucket and soak the fabric for 2 hours.
• Then, in a separate container, dissolve 1 teaspoon of washing soda in ½ cup of hot water and add it to the alum solution.
• Let the fabric soak in the mordanting mixture for at least 8 more hours, then wring out the fabric and allow it to dry naturally without rinsing.
• Once it’s dry, iron the fabric flat.

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Step 2: Create your design

Now it’s time to arrange the flowers in a design that you’ll be imprinting with a hammer. You can find some of the flowers that worked best for us at the bottom of this article.

• To begin, place the fabric on a hard surface, such as a cutting board. (To prevent the dye from bleeding onto the back of the gift bags, insert cardboard into the bag to separate the layers of fabric.)
• Arrange the flowers face-down on the bag and cover them with a barrier cloth. We’re using an old pillowcase above, but you could also use scrap fabric or a paper towel.
• Delicate flowers, such as Johnny jump-ups, easily transfer their color when pounded. However, flowers with dense centers, such as marigolds and coreopsis, tend to create a muddy design when pressed whole. Removing the petals and arranging them in a pattern results in a cleaner design and better dye transfer.
• Hammering stems and flowers separately gives you the freedom to mix and match, so you’re not limited to using the exact flower and stem together.
• When working with leaves, place them face up: This helps the veins and textures imprint clearly on the fabric.
• To make sure the dye spreads evenly and the details transfer to the fabric, pound softly with the hammer starting at the outer edges and working toward the center.
• You might have to go over it a few times. In the photo above we’re pulling back the barrier cloth to check the progress of the transfer and adjust any flowers or leaves that may have shifted during hammering.

Step 3: Finish & set the flower print

• Let the flower print dry for a few minutes before gently removing the plant material. If left for too long, it becomes harder to separate from the fabric.
• In the photo above we’re using tweezers to carefully peel away the flowers.
• Next, heat set the flower print by laying a sheet of paper over the design and iron on a low setting.  

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Plants that work great for flower pounding

We found that fresh-picked blooms provide the best color intensity, and some flowers contained more pigments in their petals, making them better at transferring vibrant colors. Additionally, some flowers experience a color shift during the transfer process, like you can see above. Here's a short list of flowers we've had success with:

• Balloon flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)
• Blanket flower (Gaillardia x grandiflora)
• Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.)
• Cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)
• Garden phlox (Phlox paniculata)
• Gloriosa daisy (Rudbeckia hirta)
• Hibiscus (Hibiscus spp.)
• Johnny jump-up (Viola tricolor)
• Mandevilla (Mandevilla x amabilis)
• Marigold (Tagetes spp.)
• Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis)

How to make a marigold garland

Marigold garlands hold a special place in celebrations across the globe, adding vibrant color and festive flair to any occasion. Whether you're preparing for a special event or simply want to bring a touch of tradition into your home, crafting your own marigold garland is a rewarding and beautiful project. Watch our short video for a step-by-step guide, or follow the instructions below to create your own flower garland.

Supplies:

• Tapestry needle works great for this project
• Thread (We recommend size 5 crochet thread)
• Marigold flowers with calyxes intact
• Snips or scissors

Step 1: Harvest marigold flowers for garland

Gather marigold flowers from your garden, making sure to include the calyx, or section below the bloom that holds the petals together.

Step 2: Measure string, and thread needle

First, decide on the length you want for your marigold garland. Measure and cut a piece of thread, making sure to leave some extra length at the ends for easy hanging. Thread your needle, and you're ready to start adding the blooms!

Step 3: String marigold blooms together to create garland

String flowers by running a tapestry needle up through the hollow stem and out the middle of the blossom. After the flower is strung, tuck each stem into the petals of the previous bloom until you have the length you want. Alternately, pierce the calyx sideways and arrange flowers on the string in a spiral for a different look.

Step 4: Display your marigold garland!

Marigold garlands are a versatile and vibrant way to bring a touch of natural beauty into your home or outdoor spaces. Whether you're looking to add a pop of color to your patio or brighten up an indoor area, these garlands are a simple yet stunning solution. Outdoors, you can drape the garland along the edges of your patio, weave it through a trellis or even hang it from trees to create a festive atmosphere.

Add a colorful fall accent indoors

Indoors, marigold garlands can be used to enhance any room. Consider hanging one in a doorway or across a mantel to bring a touch of autumn into your home. The garlands can also be used to add a decorative element to a table setting. Wrap a string of garland around the base of a candle or a vase to create an eye-catching centerpiece that's perfect for any occasion.

Garland tip

Marigold flowers dry and shrink slightly in a few days, but the colors stay bright for weeks. Hang in an area away from air vents or drafts to help keep your garland intact and beautiful as long as possible.

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How to rot a stump quickly

Pack a stump-rotting product into the wood to help it decompose faster. You have a few options: You can buy a product specifically for this purpose, which usually contains potassium nitrate, at the garden center. Or you can use any high-nitrogen fertilizer. If pets seem to be attracted to the stump, yeast nutrient used in wine making is a safe alternative.

• First, cut the stump off as close to soil level as possible. If it’s damp, let it dry.
• Next, drill several holes at least ½-inch in diameter and several inches deep. Pack the holes full of rotting product, then soak the ground around the stump and sprinkle the surface to moisten the material in the holes.
• Next lay a sheet of plastic over the area and weigh down the corners.
• Finally, spread a layer of organic mulch to shade it and help keep it moist under the plastic.
• Check the stump occasionally and moisten it if it’s dry to encourage decomposition.
• In a couple of months, the stump should soften to the point that it’ll crumble into chunks you can easily remove.

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Create a unique garden ornament with a repurposed gan blade

Are you looking for a project to work on during the winter months while your garden is resting? Try out this cute craft idea from Donna. She repurposed an old box fan into a spinning flower ornament for the garden. She removed the blades, which were attached to a center disc, from the box fan. It already resembled a flower, but it needed some colorful paint. She spray painted it all black first, and then used acrylic paint for the blades. It might help to finish it off with a clear sealing spray paint rated for outdoor use.

Add your ornament to the garden

To mount the ornament in the garden, she found a tall, sturdy straight stick. But any PVC pipe or thick stake would do the trick. Next, she grabbed a wheel bolt kit from the hardware store. After drilling a hole into the stick and a hole in the center of the disc, it was simple to follow the instructions for attaching the two using the wheel bolt. She placed the ornament in a spot where the color can be admired and the breeze pushes the blades to spin.

Tip Submitted by Donna Van Horn, IA

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If you’ve ever forgotten an unused bag of premixed concrete outdoors for several days or even weeks, you may already know how quickly it can soak up moisture and harden. What if you could put that tendency to use in a few clever and easy-to-create garden projects? Turns out, you can. All you need to do is set a bag of premixed, ready-to-use concrete in place and wet it down. It will harden in a matter of days. Scroll down to see three easy projects we made from concrete bags.

Tips from the concrete pros

Whatever your project, here are some tips from the folks at QUIKRETE® for success using premixed, ready-to-use concrete bags.

• Use mix in biodegradable bags, not the kind with a plastic lining.
  
• Poke holes in the top of the bag for better saturation when wetting the concrete.
  
• Keep the bags wet by misting or covering with plastic for four days to cure before removing the paper.
  
• Check temperatures before doing your project — do not let the wet bags freeze (below 32 degrees F), or the concrete may crack.
  
• Remove the paper by peeling, pressure washing or burning it off carefully with a torch. Or leave it to degrade on its own.
  

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Create a raised bed with concrete bags

A raised bed wall is as easy as stacking bags on top of each other and wetting them down. To make a raised bed like the one above, start by choosing which product you’d like to use — bags of pre-mixed, ready-to-use cement/ sand blend, such as QUIKRETE® Sand Mix #1103, come in different sizes and weights. Once you know the bag size, measure the outline of the bed and calculate the number of bags you’ll need. Each block will be the same size as the bag the material comes in.

Tips for building a concrete bag raised bed

Lay out the first row, water it thoroughly, then lay out the second row, staggering each bag over the seams of the previous row and patting them flat (in case the material inside the bag has shifted to one side or another) to fit together more snugly.

For a raised bed less than 2 feet tall, you can simply stack the bags, with no need for reinforcement, though that will make the wall more secure. Walls taller than 2 feet need reinforcement, and since this one was 3 feet tall, it has ½-inch rebar driven through all the layers and into the ground about 8 inches deep. This is easier to do while the material is dry, but also can be done quickly after wetting but before the concrete sets.

Before filling the bed with soil, let the concrete cure for four days by covering it with plastic or wetting it periodically. Once the concrete is cured, you can remove the paper or let it fade naturally as the season goes on. It will eventually deteriorate.

DIY Butterfly puddler

A single bag of premixed concrete is all you need to make the butterfly feeding and watering station in the photo above. Set it in place in the garden and tape the edges of the bag with packing tape to help the bag hold its shape. Cut open the bag face from corner to corner with a box cutter, and peel back the paper, leaving an open rectangle so you can press indentations into the exposed dry concrete mix with a pair of bowls. With the bowls in position to keep the shape, use the mister hose nozzle setting to saturate the mix until it looks like water will seep out if you add more. Twist and loosen the bowls to ensure they won’t stick. After the concrete has cured for four days, peel the bag off.

To fill your butterfly puddler, put a mix of half sand, half compost in one indentation and dampen it for butterflies to get moisture and minerals. Place food sources like overripe bananas or oranges in the other indentation.

See more project details

To find more specific how-to steps for this butterfly puddler made out of a concrete bag, read the full article here!

Create a bench from a concrete bag

On a sheet of plastic, wet a single bag of premixed concrete and let it cure, peel off the paper bag remnants, then simply set it atop two solid concrete blocks to make a rustic bench as in the photo above. It will weather into a natural-looking spot to sit and contemplate your next concrete bag project.

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Whether you lost a tree to a storm, age, disease, or construction, when all the debris is cleared away, you are left with a stump. While there are many creative ways to use a stump in your garden, it is often better to remove it. Just as there are many reasons to cut a tree down, there are just as many reasons to get rid of the leftover stump.

Reasons to remove a tree stump

To avoid unwanted pests

Insects such as ants, termites and wasps find deteriorating tree stumps the perfect spot to make a nest. Snakes and rodents may also live in old tree debris.

To prevent disease or fungal infestation

If your tree died from a disease or fungus, you need to remove and destroy any of the pathogens that could infect other plants in your garden.

To discourage suckers

If too much of the stump remains, suckers and sprouts may emerge from the trunk base or larger roots still in the ground.

To replant in the area

Getting rid of the stump and roots makes it easier to plant a replacement. This may not be advisable, depending on what killed the tree.

To remove tripping hazard

Stumps and old roots can be a tripping hazard, as well as difficult to mow around. And when the stump begins to rot, it can create a depression in the soil that can be dangerous.

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3 Ways to remove a tree stump

If left on its own, a tree stump can take 3 to 7 years to rot away. Here are ways to remove a tree stump quickly.

1. Jumpstart the deterioration of the tree stump

• Use a drill with a bit at least 1/2 inch in diameter to make several holes in the tree stump a few inches apart and as deep as you can make them.
  
• Pack the holes with a rotting agent. This can be a commercial product for this purpose available at a hardware store or a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
  
• Wet the surface of the stump to moisten the material in the holes and soak the ground around the stump, then top with a layer of damp mulch or compost.
  
• Cover with black plastic to keep the stump moist, then another layer of mulch to hold the plastic down.
  
• Check periodically under the plastic to make sure the mulch and stump are moist. Water if it is dry.
  
• In a few months, the stump should be rotted and crumbly and you can break up and remove chunks of the wood.
  

2. Grind the tree stump out

A professional stump grinder uses a machine that chips away the stump, leaving a pile of sawdust or shavings that can be used as mulch or hauled away. Once the stump is ground away, any remaining roots die and rot.

3. Manually remove the stump

Hand dig as much of the stump out as possible after cutting the trunk and larger roots into manageable pieces. Construction machinery can be used for manual removal if you have had the correct training to avoid personal injury. Never attempt to pull a tree trunk out with a truck because you could do serious damage to the vehicle.

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Create your own holiday decor with elements from the garden

Madeline knows how to work her garden magic to spruce up her entryway for the holidays! When late fall rolls around, she takes a stroll through her garden and snips a few dormant vine stems. Then she weaves these stems in and out of her metal porch railing and fence gate to create a base that can be laced with evergreen boughs and painted pine cones. And just in time for the holidays, she decks out her garden-inspired masterpiece with bright berries and sparkling ornaments.

The result? An entryway that's bursting with natural charm and creativity. Madeline's garden-grown decor is a reminder that you can find beauty right in your own backyard. So why not give it a try, and let your garden shine this holiday season?

Tip Submitted by Madeline Spurck, IL

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