Grow more plants from the ones you have with propagation

Who doesn’t love a good bargain at the garden center? I know I do! But it’s even better when you can get more plants without having to open your wallet at all. Knowing a few easy propagation techniques can increase your collection of annuals, perennials or shrubs without putting a strain on the budget.

When annuals get lanky and leggy, cutting them back helps improve the look of the plant and why not turn a few of those stems into cuttings? If a perennial isn’t flowering like it used to, it might be overcrowded. Division helps it grow more vigorously again and adds more colorful flowers to your border. Or maybe you have an heirloom shrub that you don’t want to lose — layering is a sure-fire way to keep it going and share with others.

These propagation techniques are super simple and most of what you’ll need is probably already in the garden shed, so let’s get started!

1. Propagate plants with stem cuttings

If you’ve cut a stem of your favorite coleus and plunked it in a jar of water, you’ve taken a cutting. It’s a simple and sure technique that works for other plants, such as alternanthera and purple heart, too. But you can actually skip this step and go right to potting mix to get transplant-ready cuttings like the one at left in as little as a few weeks.

Before you start cutting stems you’ll want to get a few containers and some potting medium. A mix of equal parts coarse sand and peat, perlite or vermiculite is great, but premoistened potting mix works just fine for most plants and still drains well.

When to cut

Cut stems any time during the growing season. Just be sure to water the parent plant the day before and harvest your cuttings early in the morning to ensure that the stems are well hydrated and in peak condition.

Where to cut

Look for pliable new growth near the stem tip. Older woody growth found near the base of the plant isn’t as likely to root. Use pruners or scissors to cut a 2- to 6-inch-long piece just below a leaf joint and remove the flower two to three sets of leaves.

Apply rooting hormone

This is the time to apply rooting hormone if you’re going to. It’s not essential, but it can help some plants take off more quickly. Rooting hormone is available as a powder, gel or liquid and in different strengths, depending on the type of plant you’re propagating. The weakest strength —0.1—is suffi cient for stem cuttings like these. Stick the exposed leaf joints in the potting mix and firm the mix in place.

Plants that propagate well from stem cuttings

You can grow all kinds of plants from stem cuttings, but the tender perennials that most of us grow as annuals are the most common.

• Alternanthera Alternanthera spp. and hybrids
• Basil Ocimum basilicum
• ColeusPlectranthus scutellarioides
• Cuban oregano Plectranthus amboinicus
• English ivy Hedera helix
• Iresine Iresine herbstii
• Penstemon Penstemon spp. and hybrids
• Purple heart Tradescantia pallida ‘Purpurea’
• Salvia Salvia spp. and hybrids
• Wallflower Erysimum hybrids

How to care for plant cuttings

Place the cuttings-filled container under grow lights or in the indirect sunlight of a south-facing window. Keep the growing medium moist but not soggy and the temperature between 65 to 75 degrees F. Use a nursery flat with a plastic lid or create a tent with a plastic bag to provide extra humidity. You’ll know the stems have formed roots when a gentle tug meets with some resistance. This can take a few weeks or a few months, depending on the plant.

Once the roots are at least an inch long, transplant the cuttings to a slightly larger container. When there are three or four new sets of leaves, they’re ready to be hardened off and planted outdoors.

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2. Divide perennials to get more plants

When you want more perennials, division is the fastest and simplest method. All you need is a spade or garden fork. You can divide most perennials, but those with taproots, such as butterfly weed (Asclepia tuberosa) or false indigo (Baptisia spp. and hybrids), don’t bounce back as reliably as those with fibrous root systems, such as garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) or daylily (Hemerocallis spp. and hybrids).

Best time to divide plants

Spring is a great time to divide. It’s cooler and there’s usually plenty of rain so plants aren’t stressed out before or after being dug. Plus, new growth is just getting started. Fall is also a good time: Temperatures are cooling down and the sun isn’t as intense, so plants can recover more easily. Be sure to allow 4 to 6 weeks before your expected first frost so plants have time to put on a few roots before the soil freezes. This will help them survive winter.

How to divide perennials

You can either slice pieces off the edge of the plant or lift the whole clump and divide it. Some plants will just fall apart once they’re out of the ground, while for others you’ll need a sharp spade or soil knife to create divisions. Just be sure that each piece has some roots and a few leaves.

Get the new divisions planted at the same depth they were growing in the ground or in a pot right away. You’ll want to keep them watered if it doesn’t rain so new roots get going and the foliage doesn’t get crispy. If your new division is in full sun, create some temporary shade so it doesn’t get cooked by the heat: Attach landscape fabric to a tomato cage and leave it in place for a week or so until the plant settles in.

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3. Propagate shrubs with a simple layering technique

Some shrubs will do this on their own if they have a low-growing branch touching the soil. This technique works for lots of woody plants, such as vines and shrubs. Look for flexible stems —roots form more easily on young growth.

When to layer shrubs

Any time of year will work, but fall or early spring is best because cooler temperatures and rain help them take off more quickly.

How to layer shrubs

• You may be able to anchor a stem to the soil with a rock and the plant will root on its own. But to ensure growth, find a low-growing stem that’s 2 to 3 feet long.
• Dig a shallow 3- to 4-inch-deep hole just under the spot where you can bend it over to touch the ground. If there are leaves, strip them off of the portion that will be underground.
• Then cut a shallow 1-inch-long wound in that spot on the stem like you see in the photo above. Brush some rooting hormone on if you’d like and use a large landscape staple to pin the stem in place.
• Bend the tip upward and secure it to a stake to encourage upright growth. Refill the hole with soil and water thoroughly.
• Make sure the soil has settled in to cover the wound so it doesn’t dry out.

Give them time to root

It can take up to a year for roots to form, depending on the plant and the growing conditions. To check progress, carefully brush away the soil and pull up the landscape pin. Ideally, after a year of growing, there should be a nice cluster of roots and you can cut your new shrub away from the mother plant. But if you only see one or two roots, it’s a good idea to cover the stem and keep it attached for another season.

Shrubs that propagate effectively through layering

• Azalea Rhododendron spp. and hybrids
• Boxwood Buxus spp. and hybrids
• Clematis Clematis spp. and hybrids
• Climbing rose Rosa spp. and hybrids
• Common lilac Syringa vulgaris
• Forsythia Forsythia x intermedia
• Honeysuckle Lonicera spp. and hybrids

How to divide a mangave plant

Mangave (Mangave x Agave) makes an interesting focal point in outdoor containers or a great houseplant. After a few years, a mangave may form small plantlets at the base, especially if it has bloomed. Blooms are tall spires with a cluster of flowers at the top. The mangave container at our test garden had an 8-foot flower spike!

How can I tell I need to divide my mangave?

If your mangave has bloomed or is forming plantlets at the base, it is time to divide it. Although a mangave doesn’t usually die after it blooms as some succulents do, the mother plant doesn’t always look great. The small new plants at the base are called “pups” and you can remove them any time of year to get more plants. Watch our how-to video above or keep scrolling to read more about the process here.

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How to divide mangave pups

Learn how to divide mangave pups from the mother plant with our helpful how-to steps below.

Remove the mangave pups from the mother plant

To remove a pup, grab hold and gently twist. You can do this without unpotting the mother plant, but it may be easier to work with the plant out of the pot, as in the photo above. If the pup doesn’t come off easily, use a sharp knife to cut it free. In the photo below, some pups will have roots and others may not. The mother plant can be discarded if it looks bedraggled.

Pot up the rooted pups

Pot the ones with roots right away by filling a small container half full with premoistened potting mix and adding the pup. Add more potting mix to fill the pot and firm the mix around the roots. Make sure the crown sits just above the mix to prevent rot.

Prepare unrooted pups

Lay the pups without roots in a spot out of direct sunlight for a couple of days so the stem will callous before you plant it. This helps prevent them from rotting. Then press the unrooted base into the potting mix, patting it firm. You may need a couple stakes to hold it in place until it roots. The pup should form roots in 6 to 8 weeks. Keep the potting mix slightly moist during this time.

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Caring for your new mangave plants

Porous terra-cotta pots are a good choice for new transplants. They dry out more quickly so there’s less risk for root rot. Set your newly potted mangave plants in indirect light and allow the soil to dry out before watering again.

How to propagate coleus from leaf cuttings

Coleus are only cold hardy in zones 10 to 11, and most gardeners in North America grow them as annuals. If you’ve never met a coleus plant you didn’t like, then you’ll surely want to know how to keep them growing from year to year. It’s a simple process to propagate new plants from one you admire. See the easy steps below to learn to take coleus cuttings of your own.

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Step 1: Take a coleus leaf cutting

Take a cutting from a mature coleus plant: Look for stems that are 4 to 6 inches in length. Make the cut using pruners or scissors right above a leaf node, which is where the leaves come out of the sides of the stem (where you make the cut, the plant will produce two stems from where the old one was, making the plant bushier). Don’t make the cuttings too large; they will not root as well or — if rooted — will become tall and lanky instead of compact.

Step 2: Remove extra leaves

Remove the lower leaves, leaving the top set of four leaves. Any part of the cutting that will be below the surface of the water should be free of leaves. The cutting is now ready for rooting in water.

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Step 3: Put coleus cuttings in water

Place the coleus cuttings in a glass jar filled with water. Place the jar in a bright place out of direct sun in a 60 to 75 degree F room. Several cuttings may be placed together in one container.

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Step 4: Watch the coleus root

Rooting will generally occur in 3 to 4 weeks. Be sure to add fresh water as needed until the cuttings are fully rooted. When roots are 1 to 2 inches long or longer the cuttings are ready to be potted up. Rooted cuttings will survive in water for long periods of time.

We took photos of this coleus over a couple of weeks time, watch it grow in the time lapse video above!

Step 5: Plant rooted cuttings

• Premoisten the potting mix in 3- or 4-inch pots and plant so the top of the root ball is an inch or so below the rim of the pot.
• Fill in the spaces around the roots with additional premoistened potting mix and gently press around the cutting to provide good contact between the roots and the mix.

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If your Christmas or Thanksgiving cactus gets very big and pot-bound, you can divide it. Cut through its thick roots with a sharp, clean knife. You can divide it into two to four pieces, depending on the size of the plant. Replant the divisions in a well-drained cactus potting mix. These new plants may look a bit lopsided, but wait to prune or shape them until after they bloom. That way you’ll avoid cutting off any flower buds.

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How to propagate Christmas cactus from cuttings

If you don’t want to divide your Christmas, Thanksgiving or Easter cactus, you can start a new one from cuttings. Here's how to do it:

• Simply break the stem by twisting the stem at the joint between the phylloclades as you see in the photo above.
• Then root the cuttings by sinking half of each stem in a sterile potting soil.
• Then set the cuttings in a warm location without direct sunlight and keep them moist.
• You should see new roots in two to three weeks. It will be a while before your new cactus needs to be repotted. Let it become root bound before transplanting it to a bigger pot.

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Easy-care Siberian iris

Siberian irises are beautiful, spring-blooming perennials that are easy to care for but need division every few years to grow and look their best. You can go over a few Siberian iris division basics below then watch this video of Siberian iris collector Kris Jurik as she divides a clump that grew too large for its space.

How do I know if my Siberian iris needs division?

If your plant isn’t flowering as well as it used to and has developed an empty crater in the center, it’s time to divide. Depending on how quick-growing a variety is, you may need to do this every 3 to 5 years.

When to divide Siberian iris

The best time to divide is in fall. Early spring works just fine, too, but you might miss out on blooms that year. It’s simple to do but because Siberian iris roots are so dense, it can be hard work.

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How to divide Siberian iris

Dividing Siberian iris is pretty simple — the biggest challenge can be getting through the dense root system if you have a large plant.

1. Use a spade to dig the clump and lift it out of the ground.
2. Remove any dead roots or those without foliage with a pruning saw.
3. Make sure new divisions have at least three fans (or leaves).
4. Replant the new division at the same level it was growing.

If you don't want to dig the entire clump, you can also clean dead foliage and rhizomes out from the empty center and fill it in with soil. It may take a few years, but the plant will gradually grow back into that space and start flowering again.

If plants don't need division but you'd like to share some, simply put a spade in at the edge of the clump and dig out a piece to pass along. Fill the hole with soil.

Get more rex begonias

What if I told you that you could propagate a bunch of beautiful rex begonias for almost nothing? It isn’t too good to be true! These elegant plants aren’t hard to propagate. I like to take leaf cuttings because it’s so fascinating to watch a single leaf sprout a whole bunch of babies. Let me show you the secret to propagating rex begonias from leaf cuttings. If you grow cane or wing begonias, give this technique a try with them, as well!

Materials & tools

• Water
• Bleach
• Scissors or pruners
• Sharp pocket knife or razor blade, or Xacto knife
• Small 5 inch pots or a shallow nursery tray with a lid
• Plastic wrap
• Soilless seed-starting mix
• T-pins (commonly found at office supply stores)
• Small stones (3-5 per leaf cutting)
• Fluorescent lights (optional)
• Seedling heat mat(optional)
• 3-inch pots for transplants

Step 1: Prepare the supplies for propagating rex begonias

Gather the items on the "Materials & Tools" list above. To be cautious, I always rinse all my supplies (and my hands) in a solution of 1 teaspoon bleach to 1 quart of water. Begonias are prone to fungal infections, and bleach kills any lurkers. Fill the tray with damp potting mix and you’re ready for the fun part — taking the cuttings!

Step 2: Take a leaf cutting from your rex begonia

Look for a healthy, full-grown leaf on the parent rex begonia plant. It can be a tattered, older leaf, but on the underside, the main veins should be plump and undamaged. Cut the leaf and stem from the main plant, then take off the leaf stem and throw it away so you’re left with just the leaf.

Step 3: Make cuts in the rex begonia leaf

Flip the begonia leaf over and make a ½-inch cut across five or six of the largest veins with your knife. I’ve cut each vein about an inch from the central vein in the photo above. These cuts (and the stem cut) are where the new plantlets will form.

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Step 4: Pin the rex begonia leaf into seed-starting mix

Turn the begonia leaf back over and press it into the seed-starting mix. Then, to keep the cuts in contact with the mix, start pushing T-pins through the leaf into the soil. Use as many as you need to hold the leaf flat.__ Avoid putting a pin through a main leaf vein, or that vein may not root. __

Keep things in place

A few stones may help keep the begonia leaf from curling up and away from the mix, as well. Leave them in place until they start to get in the way. Start as many leaves as will fit in your tray or pot without the leaves touching.

Step 5: Provide humidity and light for the begonia leaf cutting

Cover your container with its dome or plastic wrap. But be careful not to let the plastic touch the leaves or you could risk fungal problems. Keep your leaf cutting near 70 degrees and give it plenty of humidity. I mist mine daily and water the soil once a week.

Give them light

I hang fluorescent lights 6 inches above the cuttings and leave them on about 12 hours each day until the new plants start to grow. You could also put your leaf cuttings in an east window as long as the temperature stays consistently warm. If you have a heat mat for seedlings, that will help the begonia leaf cuttings get off to a faster start. Keep the temperature setting at about 70 degrees.

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Step 6: Watch for new growth on your rex begonia leaf cutting

See those tiny plants unfurling? Expect one or two plants per cut. They can take up to 6 weeks to emerge, so be patient.

• When the plants are 3 inches tall and have at least two leaves, they’re ready to lift. The original leaf probably will have torn apart and may have even disintegrated.
• Gently transplant the babies into 3-inch pots.
• Grow them there until they’re big enough to put in the garden or transplant into more permanent pots.

While spring and fall are traditionally the best time to divide, there are plenty of reasons you may need to divide a plant in the summer. Whether you’re moving or just haven’t had the time until now, many plants take summer division just fine as long as you follow the tips I’m about to share. There are even some plants, such as bearded iris and Oriental poppies, that are better off being split this time of year.

Signs your plant needs dividing:

• Fewer flowers
• A dead center
• A shrinking plant

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How to divide plants in summer

1. Water beforehand

Water the plant you want to divide and its future home the day before you dig.

2. Cut back foliage

Before digging, cut the foliage back by half: This way a smaller root system won’t have to support lots of foliage in the heat later.

• Shear plants whose leaves go all the way to the base, such as daylilies (Hemerocallis spp. and hybrids), to within a few inches of the soil line.
• But if a plant’s leaves are mostly at the ends of the stems, like Coral bells (Heuchera spp. and hybrids), you’ll need to cut individual leaves in half.

3. Dig up the plant & divide

Dig up the plant, slicing 4 to 6 inches out from the edge of the crown. Then you can divide. The red lines above show you where to split the different root types. See more details on how to divide plants here.

4. Plant quickly

Get your new plant in the hole quickly so the roots don’t dry out. Once the plant is in place, fill the hole halfway with soil, and water well. That way, the water soaks in and doesn’t evaporate or roll off the soil’s surface.

5. Fertilize

Apply an organic liquid fertilizer, such as Neptune’s Harvest, when you water, to help get plants off to a good start.

6. Finish planting

Fill the hole the rest of the way with soil, and water it again.

7. Mulch

Apply an inch or two of organic mulch to help conserve water.

Tips for dividing plants in summer

• Full-sun plants will benefit from a shade shelter for a week or two. Insert a few bamboo stakes in the soil and clothespin some landscape fabric to the stakes to make a screen. Position it on the west side of the plant to protect it during the hottest sun of the day.
• Check your plant each day, and if it looks wilted in the morning or late evening, give it a drink of water.
• You may need to water daily for a few days after planting.

Look over the list below and you’ll find a lot of plants that take summer division in stride. Don’t see yours on the list? Some plants don’t like division anytime. Now you know what and how to divide this summer... no sweat!

Plants you can divide in summer

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What’s the best way to get more of the plants you love? Divide the ones you have! On the other hand, this isn’t the only reason to divide: Sometimes plants need to be split — they’ll let you know when it’s time. The good news is that the process is simple and easy to do, though it looks a little different depending on the roots of the plant. Let’s walk through a few of the basics to make sure you can divide your plants in the right way and at the right time.

Signs that your plants need to be divided

If you’re wondering whether or not your plants need to be divided, here are a few indicators that the plant is getting overcrowded:

• Smaller leaves
• Clumps that are dying out in the center
• Fewer, smaller flowers

Dig out plants to divide them

A good rule of thumb is to dig 4 to 6 in. away from the base of the plant. That way you’ll get plenty of roots as you lift the clump out of the ground. In the photo at above, we’ve dug all the way around the phlox. Actually, there is no need to completely lift the plant up and out — all of that soil can be heavy. Instead, the easy method is to simply tilt the whole mass of soil back on the blade of your spade so you can see the roots and break, or cut, the old plant into smaller sections. Often the soil falls away. If not, scrape or shake some of the excess off so you have some “wiggle” room to gently pull or cut the divisions.

Dividing tip

Sometimes the roots are easy to break apart with your hands or a shovel, but for tough and strong roots, a soil knife with a serrated edge makes the task easier.

Look at the roots

After you dig out your plant, take a look at the roots before you start separating the plant. Not all perennials have the same types of roots. Look at the illustrations below to decide which category your plant fits into. Then you can make the correct cut.

The dotted lines let you know where you should make dividing cuts on each type of plant. You can divide into small sections with just one stem attached to a few roots. But for a bigger impact faster, leave three to seven stems on each new division.

Can’t decide which roots most closely match your plant? See our chart of over 40 perennials that will let you know which type of root system each has, the best time to divide it and some other helpful tips.

3 ways to divide perennials

Most perennials fall into one of three categories — spreaders, clumpers and those with woody crowns. Each type has a few quirks you need to know as you dig it out of the ground and separate it into new plants. Learn a bit about each below.

Spreaders

Many ground covers, like the bugleweed above, spread by modified stems that root where they touch the ground. It’s easy to dig up the newly formed “baby” plants and transplant them.

Clumpers

Dividing plants with fibrous or spreading roots like this daylily is easy. Dig up the whole clump and pull or cut the root ball apart. Or just dig out a chunk along the edge, if you don’t mind a gap in your plant for a season.

Woody crowns

Some plants, such as the coral bells above, have a woody crown. Dig up the whole plant and shake off the soil. Cut off sections of crown, each with a few leaves, and replant them individually.

When’s the best time to divide plants?

Now that you know how, let’s talk about when. If possible, choose a cool and cloudy day to dig perennials out of the ground. Spring or fall is usually less stressful than the heat of summer. But if you have to divide when it’s hot, we have some handy tips for helping plants adjust below. If you want to know which season is best for your particular plant, check out our list of how to divide 45 perennials for more specific information.

Tips for transplanting in hot weather

Dividing and transplanting in cool weather isn’t always practical. In July, if you find you need to move a plant, even though it’s 90 degrees and sunny, here are some secrets that will help ensure your plants’ survival.

1. Start by watering the plant and its future home the day before you dig.
2. The next day cut the foliage back by half: This way a smaller root system won’t have to support lots of foliage in the heat.
3. Next, dig the hole where the new divisions will be set.
4. You’re now ready to dig the plant out of the ground and divide just as you would at any other time of year.
5. Once you have a division set into its new spot, fill the hole halfway with soil and soak it thoroughly.
6. Fill the hole the rest of the way with soil, water it again and put down a layer of mulch.
7. Keep the area wet for a few days.
8. If the plant wilts in late evening or early morning, water again. And a little protection from the sun is a good idea, too.

Divide perennials to get more plants!

Divide your perennials to keep plants vigorous, improve the health of their foliage and to increase the number of blooms. Or simply divide them for the sake of having multiple of your favorite plants! Because every perennial has a preferred way to be divided, use this handy chart to help you know what time of year to divide, how to divide it and a handful of other helpful tips to ensure your success.

Consider root type

Keep in mind that each perennial’s root type determines how it likes to be cut and divided. For more information, head to over to Three Ways to Divide Perennials to help you know.

Every gardener knows what it’s like to head out to the garden and think, “Oh, no! What happened to my plant?” If the plant has spread out into a ring with a dead spot in the center, it’s time to divide.

We have all the steps for a simple technique to keep a fast-growing perennial looking good, without a lot of effort. Check out the list of plants below. If you are growing any of these plants, be on the lookout for dead centers. If you spot one, follow our instructions, and you’ll be on your way to a healthier and happier garden.

Plants that develop dead centers

• AsterAster hybrids
• Shasta daisyLeucanthemum hybrids
• Siberian irisIris sibirica
• SneezeweedHelenium hybrids

What to do with a plant that has a dead center

Let’s walk through the steps of dividing a Siberian iris. Siberian iris is a welcome sight in spring. But after a few years you may find that the foliage is growing up around a dead spot in the center, as it has in the photo above. And there just aren’t as many of those pretty spring flowers as the plant used to have. You guessed it — time to divide!

Lift the entire plant

That cluster of dead rhizomes in the center takes up space and won’t let new growth sprout. Your best bet is to lift the entire clump. Do this in early spring, when the foliage is still small so you can see what you’re doing.

See our Flower & Plant Guide

Slice it into sections

With the clump out of the ground, use your spade to slice it into four to six sections, as if you’re cutting a pie. With a soil knife or small saw, cut off the dead “tip” of each wedge, shown in the photo above, and discard it.

Dividing tip

If the clump is too big for you to lift out whole, you can loosen it all the way around, then cut the clump into wedge-shaped chunks and take them out one at a time.

Replant the divisions

Of course, you could divide these clumps down to much smaller pieces, but you’ll get a lot more impact if you replant a chunk about the size of the one I’m holding in the photo below, which is roughly 6 inches across. Plant it at the same level it was growing before, and keep it well-watered the first year.

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