Tips for designing a beautiful entry garden

Your entry garden has a big job to do—it needs to deliver low-maintenance curb appeal all year, greet guests and show off your own unique style. Follow these design tips to help your garden meet all of these goals.

Widen the path

Even if you have a smaller yard, you want a front walk that looks inviting and is easy for visitors to traverse. A smooth surface that’s at least 4 feet wide can do just that. It leaves plenty of room for two people to walk comfortably side by side, and allows enough space for a wheelchair too.

The original front path and steps to the Washington home in the photo above were very narrow and looked out of place with the wide front door and full-length windows flanking it. So one of the first things that landscape designer Stacie Crooks did was widen both the path and the front stoop for a more balanced visual connection as you and visitors go from the outdoors to inside.

The steps are made of ipe, a tropical hardwood that’s super dense, rot- and insect-resistant and lasts for decades. A generous 12-foot-wide Pennsylvania bluestone path connects the entry to the drive and runs along the front of the house.

Add evergreen foliage for four-season interest

With its four-season appeal, evergreen foliage fills the gap between blooms and provides a sense of permanence. Stacie’s rule of thumb for designing borders is to use two-thirds evergreen foliage to one-third deciduous.

Plenty of plants have evergreen foliage in a wide range of colors, shapes and sizes. The texture-rich planting in this zone 8 garden looks good all year thanks to a variety of rhododendrons (Rhododendron spp. and hybrids), ferns and heath (Erica carnea). You could also try low-growing sedges (Carex spp. and hybrids) in green or brown to soften the walkway’s edge or a 4- to 15-foot-tall weeping Norway spruce (Picea abies ‘Pendula’) to draw you toward the door. Though the stately Indian paper birches (Betula utilis subsp. jacquemontii) near the front door don’t have evergreen foliage, the white bark looks fantastic during the gray days of winter.

Don’t crowd the front entry

The front door isn’t a good spot to let your shrubs and perennials outgrow their space. Overgrown plants can be a tripping hazard or a security risk. Choosing dwarf varieties and shrubs that have tidy habits, such as bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) or spirea (Spiraea japonica), can provide low-maintenance beauty and structure for a front-yard border. Be sure to site plants so once they reach the mature size, the foliage only overlaps the path by a few inches. And while it’s great to have perennials for flowers and added texture, be sure to keep the shorter ones up front, making them easy to see.

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Entry gardens are a great way bring the house and landscape together

Choosing flowers or foliage that repeat your home’s siding or trim color is one simple solution for a unified look. But if your house has distinctive architectural features, you can accentuate those too. The prairie style home above has a full-length glass front door and row of large windows with a great view of the yard. A line of upright feather reed grass (Calamagrostis x acutiflora) and allium (Allium hybrid) along the front border echoes the repetition on the house. The entry garden doesn’t have to be exactly the same as other parts of the yard, but by repeating a few of the elements from the backyard out front, you can tie the two together.

If Vermont garden designer Erica Bowman is designing a Japanese garden in the back, the front yard will have a foliage-heavy plant palette and an ornament, such as a lantern, to give a hint of what’s to come. Or if the homeowner has a loose native planting, she’ll use many of the same plants in front in a bit more structured way and make sure to add a grouping of colorful wildflowers near the door to draw your eye there.

Design quick tip:

A limited color palette is an easy way to get a pulled-together look. Plus, it helps make choosing the plants easier.

Consider the garden from different views

It’s always a good idea to step back and look at the front yard from different perspectives, such as the sidewalk or across the street. This can help you see where you might need to add height or balance out a larger plant that’s already in place. But not every view of the garden has to be taken in from the street side. What you see from the inside matters too. Wisconsin garden designer Mark Dwyer suggests looking out the front door and windows to imagine what you’d like to see there, such as flowers changing through the seasons or an elegantly shaped Japanese maple (Acer palmatum).

Also, take note of plants that might be encroaching on your view out the picture window or any screening that might be needed. With a full-length glass front door or a large window, you might want to site a tree or shrub so passersby can’t easily see inside at night.

Add sensory elements to your front entry

Once you’ve taken in the views from inside, walk through the front door, paying attention to what you’re experiencing. Would you like more color or a soft grass to run your hands over? This isn’t so much about curb appeal as it is about making your entry an experience you can immerse yourself in every time you pass through it.

Add a focal point

A focal point helps with traffic flow, drawing guests along to their destination. The showy red screen door in the photo above shows you right where to go. A special ornament or a few brightly planted containers can work just as well.

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Beautiful & fragrant plants for your front entry garden

Fragrance helps make the path to your front door a journey to enjoy. Whether you want to fill containers or edge a border, the plants below will do the trick!

Reseeding plants is an easy way to get repetition in the garden

See the repeating pools of blue flowers along the spring pathway in the photo above? This repetition has mostly happened naturally as annuals and perennials reseed around the structural trees and shrubs in Ted and Nadine Staunton's Vancouver garden: “I tend to leave most of them unless they’re in the way or impeding another plant. Because it’s such a large garden I don’t have time to manicure every spot.”

Pull volunteers you don’t want

Nadine doesn’t do much deadheading but instead pulls the volunteers that she doesn’t need. She has, however, learned the hard way not to compost plants that have gone to seed, after an unfortunate incident with forget-me-nots. This hasn’t dampened her enthusiasm for these beautiful clouds of blue spring flowers though. Learn more about them and more of her favorite reseeders below.

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8 Reseeding plants to fill spaces in the garden

When you have a large property, you need large numbers of plants to fill it up. Reseeders are a good solution if you don’t mind doing some “editing” of unwanted plants every year. Here are a few of Nadine’s favorite species that spread quickly and make a big impact once established. 

1. Lady’s mantle (Alchemilla mollis)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Clouds of chartreuse blooms in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 10 to 18 in. tall, 18 to 30 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

2. Spiderwort (Tradescantia virginiana)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Clusters of three-petaled purple, pink or white flowers in late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

3. Forget-me-not (Myosotis sylvatica)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Tiny sky-blue flowers in late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 6 to 9 in. tall, 6 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

4. Serbian bellflower (Campanula poscharskyana)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Blue star-shaped flowers in spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 8 to 10 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7

5. Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia spp. and hybrids)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Golden yellow, daisy-shaped flowers with black centers from midsummer through fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

6. Wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis)

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Nodding two-tone red and yellow flowers in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

7. Bachelor’s button (Centaurea cyanus)

Type: Annual
Blooms: Cornflower blue flowers in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun
Size: 24 to 30 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide

8. Spanish bluebells (Hyacinthoides hispanica)

Type: Bulb
Blooms: Pendulous lavender flowers in spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 12 to 18 in. tall, 3 to 6 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

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Secrets to successful raised garden beds

The first time that New Jersey’s Resh Gala tried to grow tomatoes, she didn’t get a single edible fruit, thanks to blossom end rot and other struggles. But she was determined to learn from her failure. The next year, she had more encouraging results in her small raised bed and decided to keep growing. Since then, she’s learned that not everything will be perfect: Whether it’s a new pest infestation, bad weather or something else, every year is different.

But when one crop struggles, another one usually thrives. This determination to keep trying new things and continue gardening through difficulties lead to Resh being named 2020 Gardener of the Year by Burpee Home Gardens. Now she’s launched a business, Hundred Tomatoes LLC, to help other aspiring gardeners achieve their hoped-for harvests, and written the book Vegetable Gardening Made Easy. Her specialty is intensively planting herbs, flowers and vegetables together in raised beds that are both visually striking and productive.

Creating a beautiful and bountiful garden

Resh says, “Most home gardeners seek a beautiful garden that takes minimal time and effort to thrive.” That’s why she recommends polyculture gardening — growing several types of plants together in the same space. It’s a very different look than the traditional rowed-out vegetable garden.

This planting style mimics nature, reducing pest problems while attracting pollinators and beneficial insects in a healthy backyard ecosystem. Want to know her secrets to productive raised garden beds? Learn some of her favorite plant combinations below, and keep reading for her tips on choosing the best materials, planting medium and more.

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Beneficial companion planting ideas for raised garden beds

Resh says, “Polyculture confuses pests. I think of it as natural pest control for the garden.” Some plants repel insects and others act as trap crops, luring the pests away from susceptible plants. She often plants a border of herbs around her raised beds, using it as the first line of defense against insects. For example, the chives help repel pests from the strawberries and lettuce. The annual flower pot marigold acts as a trap crop: It attracts aphids, which remain on the sticky calendula foliage and leave peppers and tomatoes alone. Once you notice several insects trapped in the plant, it’s time to pull and dispose of it.

Resh’s favorite beneficial plant pairings:

• Cucumber + dill + nasturtiums
• Tomatoes + basil + marigolds
• Broccoli + chives + sweet alyssum
• Eggplant + sage + pot marigolds
• Carrots + thyme + peas

Benefits of raised garden beds

Raised beds have many benefits if you’re establishing a new vegetable garden:

Raised beds are easy to maintain

With clearly defined edges, raised beds help you manage your garden layout and reduce weed creep. They also make tasks like watering, harvesting and rotating crops easier to plan and execute because you can stack them as high as you’d like, to reduce back and knee strain.

Raised beds can go almost anywhere

Raised beds make the most of small or awkward areas—tuck them into tight corners, patios, or even rooftops. They’re completely customizable.

Allows for soil quality control

The foundation of a good garden is healthy soil. Transforming poor soil into a healthy, plant-ready state can take years — it’s not as simple as tossing a bag of compost or manure on top. But raised beds allow you to start growing right away and with the confidence that you’ll get a good harvest if the soil in the ground is nutrient-poor, too dry, too soggy or heavy clay, as Resh’s was.

Once a bed is established, compost is the secret sauce for healthy plants. Resh makes her own in a compost tumbler with kitchen scraps and pine pellets, and every fall she top-dresses beds with 3 to 4 inches of compost. When plants are starting to produce and set fruit, she sidedresses with more. If you don’t have access to this much compost, she recommends feeding your garden earthworm castings or compost purchased in bulk.

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Resh’s perfect planting medium for raised garden beds

Top 25% of raised bed:

• High-quality raised bed mix. (Resh likes the Coast of Maine brand.)

Bottom 75% of raised bed:

• 30% topsoil
• 30% compost
• 10% vermiculite for water retention
• 5% perlite to help with drainage

How to Calculate Raised Bed Materials

Length x Width x Height = Total volumeFor example, a 4x8x1 bed = 32 cubic feet of material

Using Resh’s suggested ratios above, this would translate to:

• 8 cubic feet of raised bed mix (25%)
• 9.6 cubic feet of topsoil (30%)
• 9.6 cubic feet of compost (30%)
• 3.2 cubic feet of vermiculite (10%)
• 1.6 cubic feet of perlite (5%)

Note: For several beds, it may be most cost-effective to order in bulk, measured in cubic yards. Divide cubic feet by 27 to determine cubic yards.

Utilize plant supports to maximize raised garden bed space

Support structures help a gardener get the most out of an intensively planted small space. Here’s how Resh matches the structure to the purpose:

Garden arches

Use these for vining beans, gourds, melons, squash and even cherry tomatoes. You may need to secure heavy fruit with netting or old stockings to keep them from breaking off. Resh likes to extend an arch between two beds.

Obelisks

These are perfect for plants whose foliage needs to be corralled, such as sweet peas, tomatoes, bush cucumbers, peas and even pole beans.

Fence panels

You can harvest beans, cucumbers and peas from both sides of these, and they’re easy to make with a cattle panel and wooden posts.

Teepees

Tie four garden stakes together with twine to create an easy structure for pole beans or peas. If plants need a little help climbing, make layers by wrapping twine at different heights.

Plant cages

Traditional tomato cages are too small for tomatoes, but they work well to corral medium-sized bushy plants, such as eggplants and peppers.

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Best materials for raised garden beds

Resh builds each bed with 2×6 untreated red cedar or Douglas fir boards and attaches a 4-inch-wide trim piece to the top edge of every bed. This makes it comfortable to rest a basket or sit on.

She recommends a height of 12 to 24 inches. The taller a bed, the less bending you’ll have to do to take care of it, but taller beds also require more amendments and soil, increasing the cost up front. Resh suggests beds no larger than 4×8 feet for structural integrity and ease of access.

Modify raised garden beds for pest management

If deer and rabbit damage is a concern, these 24-inch-tall hinged chicken wire cages will keep them out. Ready to work in the garden? Unhook, slide a barrel bolt open and flip the side down.

To keep digging pests out, Resh staples ¼-inch hardware cloth to the bottom of each bed. Line the inside with landscape fabric or cardboard before filling with soil to help the wood last longer.

Install irrigation systems to make watering easier

Install 1⁄2-inch drip irrigation tubing with emitters spaced 6 inches apart to provide even coverage for both large and small plants in a garden with several beds, where watering becomes more of a chore.

Follow Resh Gala!

• Author, garden coach and designer
  
• reshgala.com
  
• Follow on Instagram: @reshgala

Classic European Garden Design Techniques

When you visit the expansive and meticulously maintained spaces of Europe’s most famous gardens, it might feel worlds away from a modern-day North American backyard. The elaborate structures and large-scale designs seem like grandiose remnants of a bygone era. However, there are plenty of ways to incorporate a touch of that old-world elegance into modern landscapes. Here are five features that can easily be reimagined for just about any outdoor space to add a dash of formality or a hint of romance.

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5 European garden design ideas that stand the test of time

1. Get creative with parterre and topiary

Maybe intricately patterned formal hedges, or parterres, are the first design element that comes to mind when you imagine European gardens. Or do you think of stately topiary shrubs in dramatic shapes? The parterre originated in 16th-century France during the Renaissance as a symbol of wealth. And ancient Romans reportedly practiced topiary as an art form.

The parterre at Ireland’s Bantry House, above, is particularly effective because it can be viewed from above in the house or on the adjacent terraced hillside. While you may not have the space to create an intricate pattern of symmetrical beds like this, everyone has room to display some artful pruning. A couple of potted boxwood spirals can make any entryway a little statelier, and there is no rule that privacy hedges need to be a straight green wall — unless your HOA says otherwise.

To shape shrubs, it’s generally best to start with young plants. In order to prevent stress or dieback, avoid removing more than one-third of the plant’s foliage at a time. Good candidates for topiary and parterre include boxwood (Buxus spp. and hybrids), yew (Taxus spp. and hybrids), and Japanese holly (Ilex crenata). Boxwoods typically need trimming two to three times per year to hold crisp lines, while slower-growing yews can be shaped once annually.

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2. Soften garden structures with climbing plants

Throughout history, climbing plants have been used to blur the boundaries between architecture and nature — seen most famously in the rose-covered arches at Monet’s Garden in Giverny, France, above. Retaining walls, fences, arches, arbors and pergolas are all perfect places to add plants that will climb and cascade over the surface.

3. Densely plant double borders for romantic abundance

Double borders — two parallel garden beds separated by a central path — became a defining feature of English estate gardens during the Victorian and Edwardian eras, exemplified by the broad, flower-filled walks at estates like Hidcote or Powerscourt Estate, above. The design allows gardeners to frame a walkway with color and texture on both sides, creating a sense of total immersion while encouraging visitors to wander deeper into the landscape.

To achieve a successful double border, think in layers. Place structural plants (such as boxwoods or small ornamental trees) at the back of the beds, then fill in the middle ground with medium-sized perennials, before capping it all off with frothy ground covers along the front. Long-blooming perennials like catmint (Nepeta spp. and hybrids) and geraniums (Geranium spp. and hybrids) are good candidates for a border that should be filled with constant color. Annuals that tend to reseed, such as poppies (Papaver somniferum) or love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena), are also great for infusing serendipitous touches throughout the beds.

4. Use water to invoke a timeless elegance in your garden design

Almost every garden style around the world incorporates the element of water in one way or another. The grand fountains of Versailles, for example, illustrate the power that water features have in a garden, drawing in visitors from afar to take a closer look. In Italy, the Renaissance ushered in elaborate tiered fountains and grottoes, while Islamic and Moorish gardens relied on smaller ponds to convey tranquility. A simple reflecting pool — like those found in traditional Mediterranean courtyards — can provide a serene focal point that mirrors the sky and surrounding foliage.

Decide the water feature’s purpose

Before adding a water element to your garden, start by defining what you want it to achieve. Do you want a focal point and to perhaps mask noise pollution? A feature that has moving water will add ambient sound and attention-grabbing movement to a space. Or, if you are looking to infuse a sense of reflection and calm, then the still water found within a pool, like this beauty in June Blake’s Garden in Ireland above, is a better option.

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5. Add rustic flair with stonework and garden sculptures

Finally, here’s a garden feature that will instantly give your space a more vintage feel: stonework. From medieval staddle stones once used to elevate granaries (like those at Knockrose in County Dublin, above) to the statuary and carved walls of classical European estates, stone features lend history and permanence to any setting.

Not everyone will have access to architectural salvage materials. But many newer stone and concrete sculptures will look authentically aged after just a few years of exposure to the elements. Stone walls, which provide function as well as some old-world charm, are perhaps one of the most straightforward ways to infuse a sense of age into a landscape.

You might also consider selecting stone pavers with softer edges and more organic shapes for your paths or patio and allowing ground covers to grow in the spaces between for a romantic feel. If natural stone isn’t in the budget, concrete and faux stone can have a similar effect when the same principles of soft edges and organic forms are applied. Cover and surround your new hardscaping with plants, and who’s to say that it isn’t an ancient relic that’s graced your garden for centuries?

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Garden Gate readers have plenty of clever ideas for pumpkins. Discover tips for extending the life of these fall favorites, styling them in seasonal displays and giving them new purpose in the garden once the holidays are over.

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Make your pumpkins last longer in fall

Extend the life of your fall pumpkins with this easy tip! Instead of placing them directly on the porch or deck, Rachelle sets each one on a container platform or plant caddy to improve airflow and prevent moisture buildup. This helps pumpkins last well past Halloween, and even if they do start to get soft, the porch or deck won’t be stained or damaged. See how it's done in the quick video above.

Tip submitted by Rachelle Thornburgh, WA

Create a pest trap with pumpkins

Here’s a festive solution to your slug problem: Get a pumpkin! Donna cuts the top off of a pumpkin and cleans out the seeds and pulp. She places it in her hosta bed and lets it collect slugs. She then kills them with soapy water and tosses them in with her yard waste. You can return the pumpkin to the bed and continue to dispose of the slugs as needed. The best part is that it looks more like a decoration than it does a pest trap!

Tip submitted by Donna Hartman, IA

Pop in a Pumpkin!

Create a pumpkin topiary

To make her pumpkin topiary, Rachel holds “auditions” to see which ones stack best. Stabilizing the stack with rods would just cause the pumpkin to rot. They sit on a 20-inch pizza pan covered with artificial leaves.

Use pumpkins as an accent

Have a hole in a planting that’s otherwise still going strong, or want to accent a fall container? Add pumpkins! Rachel gets creative and saves money by planting in upcycled items found around the yard or at flea markets. The old wheelbarrow above, overflowing with wing begonias, is a favorite find turned planter that she loves to accent with a pile of pumpkins in autumn.

Garden design by Rachel Light, OH

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A garden doesn’t have to be filled with bright colors to be beautiful. Some of the most captivating landscapes embrace the darker side of the plant world. A midnight garden, or what some might call a gothic-style garden, is designed around plants with moody hues that evoke drama and mystery. While no flower is truly black, many appear nearly so, with deep tones that shift depending on the light — richer and darker in shade, more burgundy or purple in full sun.

Shadowy allies in a gothic garden

Even the darkest colored blooms and foliage need the right company to truly shine in the garden. Think of it as setting the stage — the darker plants create the drama, while their companions provide the perfect lighting. Silvery foliage, such as that of ‘Jack Frost’ brunnera (Brunnera macrophylla) and lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina), add contrast and make deep colors stand out. Lush green backdrops of ferns or hostas add depth and prevent darker plants from receding into the background. For extra dimension, add white and pale-hued flowers to brighten the space and draw the eye in your garden design.

Set the mood with garden accents to create contrast with black plants

A midnight garden is less about the time of day and more about the atmosphere it creates — mysterious, elegant and a little bit moody. While you’ll most likely admire these dark, dramatic blooms in the daylight, you can carry their magic into the evening with soft, subtle lighting, like solar lights tucked along a path or beside inky foliage. Add a few reflective touches, such as gazing balls or mirrors, to catch ambient light and deepen the mood. Read on to discover some of the most captivating plants to help set the scene.

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Japanese cobra lily (Arisaema sikokianum)

Like something from a forgotten woodland tale, Japanese cobra lily emerges in early spring, its unusual hooded bloom rising above silver-splashed, five-lobed leaves. A dramatic relative of Jack-in-the-pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum), it features an 8-inch-long hooded bract, or spathe, surrounding a snowy white clublike spadix. The hood sports purple, green and white striping outside and white on the inside. As flowers fade, a dense cone of vivid red berries develops in mid- to late summer, lingering for weeks after the foliage has withered away.

Growing tips

Japanese cobra lily thrives in moist, humusy soil, making it a natural fit near ponds, streams or shaded garden beds where the conditions remain consistently damp. A shady planting site is essential to prevent leaf scorch, as too much sun can damage its delicate foliage. Plant Japanese cobra lily in minimally disturbed areas of the garden, where fallen leaves and dappled light provide the perfect setting for its ghostly form. Pair it with perennials that fill out later in the season after the cobra lily’s flower is gone.

Plants are slow to propagate, requiring patience when grown from seed — it may be three to five years before the first blooms appear. Japanese cobra lily rarely produces offsets, but when it does, they can be carefully divided in fall or early spring to encourage new growth.

Type: Perennial; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Dark purple to brown hooded spathe with green-and-white striping surrounds a snowy white spadix above green foliage in midspring 
Light: Part to full shade 
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8 

‘Green Wizard’ coneflower (Rudbeckia occidentalis)

With a name like ‘Green Wizard’, this unique coneflower is sure to cast a spell on your garden. Unlike traditional coneflowers, this variety skips the bright yellow petals and instead boasts green sepals that frame a nearly black central cone. Its bold form stands out in beds, borders or cottage gardens, attracting pollinators like bees and butterflies to the tiny yellow flowers.

Growing tips

The 6- to 9-inch cones last long after the tiny yellow flowers have faded. Deadhead to encourage more blooms and to prevent self-seeding. At season’s end, you can cut plants back to the crown and mulch with straw to protect them through winter. Or leave the cones standing for interest and as a food source for birds. To get first-year flowers, start seeds indoors eight weeks before the last frost.

Type: Perennial; North American native 
Blooms: Purple to black central cone surrounded by tiny yellow flowers and green sepals in summer 
Light: Full sun 
Soil: Average, well-drained
Size: 36 to 60 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Swan’ poppy (Papaver somniferum)

Boasting deep burgundy, almost black petals and a wildly ruffled, featherlike texture, this poppy looks like it belongs on a Victorian stage. The 5-inch flowers seem to smolder in the sunlight, shifting from dark crimson to near-ebony, depending on the angle, making them a striking focal point in garden beds and borders. Easy to grow and deer resistant, this self-seeding annual returns year after year.

Growing tips

Direct-sow seeds four weeks before the last spring frost or in late fall. Mix the seeds with fine sand and scatter them thinly over the soil to avoid overcrowding. You might need to provide plants with a little support during the growing season to prevent them from toppling over in heavy wind. After flowering, its large, rounded green seedpods keep things interesting long after the petals have fallen, and the tiny black seeds inside can be used for baking.

Type: Annual; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Large, fully double, deep burgundy flowers with deeply ruffled and finely cut petals in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 36 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

‘Nightrider’ Asiatic lily (Lilium asiatica)

A cross between Asiatic and trumpet lilies, ‘Nightrider’ grabs attention with deep burgundy, trumpet-shaped blooms that shimmer in the sunlight. Perched atop tall, sturdy stems, its 6- to 6½-inch flowers appear violet-black in full sun and take on an almost inky black hue in light shade. Each stem produces three to five blooms, making it a striking addition to both the garden and fresh floral arrangements.

Growing tips

Beyond its color, ‘Nightrider’ is a lightly fragrant variety, offering a subtle scent that enhances its charm. Pollinators love it, and once established, it’s drought tolerant too. You can start your lilies from bulbs or purchase potted ones at the garden center for transplanting. If you’re planting bulbs, set them at a depth three times their height in rich, well-draining soil amended with compost or well-rotted manure. Staking may be needed for extra support for these impressive flowers during the growing season.

After flowers fade, allow the foliage to die back naturally, as it helps replenish the bulb for next year’s blooms. Wait until the stems become yellow or brown before cutting them back. If blooming slows after a few years, dig up the entire plant and check for crowded bulbs. Larger bulbs that have grown too close together may need to be split. While you’re dividing, you may notice several small bulblets attached to the larger bulbs. Go ahead and plant them too, but know that it’ll take several years for them to reach blooming size.

Type: Bulb 
Blooms: Outward-facing, maroon-black, trumpet-shaped flowers with large recurved petals from summer to fall 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8 
Source: The Lily Garden, thelilygarden.com, 360-253-6273

Black bat flower (Tacca chantrieri)

With whisker-like filaments and broad, winglike bracts, the black bat flower looks like something from a gothic fairy tale. Its dark bracts, often mistaken for petals, can grow up to a foot wide, framing small maroon-black flowers that emerge on elongating cymes, or flower clusters, at the center. Below, its dark green foliage forms a rosette of pleated, lance-shaped leaves that can reach 2 feet long.

Growing tips

Native to the tropical forests of Southeast Asia, this understory plant thrives in warm, humid conditions. It’s often grown as an annual in containers or kept indoors as a houseplant. During the summer, place it on a shaded patio or porch, then bring it indoors before cooler temperatures arrive. Overwinter black bat flower indoors by maintaining warm temperatures and high humidity to keep it from going dormant.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Deep purple to nearly black bracts with maroon-black flowers with whisker-like filaments from spring to fall 
Light: Part to full shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11 

‘Black Barlow’ columbine (Aquilegia vulgaris var. stellata)

Unlike the delicate, long-spurred petals of traditional columbines, the heirloom variety ‘Black Barlow’ boasts fully double, pom-pom-like blooms in a deep near black shade of plum. Each intricate, layered flower nods gracefully atop slender stems, swaying gently with the breeze like a whisper from another era.

Growing tips

This hardy perennial thrives in full sun to part shade, producing a bounty of flowers in late spring and early summer. Its dusky blooms contrast beautifully against soft-green, lacy foliage, making it a standout in borders, woodland gardens and cut flower arrangements. A favorite of hummingbirds and pollinators, it brings movement and life to the garden. After flowering, ornamental seedpods add continued interest, and if allowed to self-seed, ‘Black Barlow’ will naturalize over time.

Type: Perennial; deer-resistant 
Blooms: Fully double, dark plum-purple blooms in late spring to early summer
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 30 in. tall, 14 to 16 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Sprite’ perennial bachelor’s button (Centaurea montana)

Delicate yet bold, ‘Black Sprite’ perennial bachelor’s button takes a familiar cottage garden favorite and gives it a moody twist. Its deep burgundy, nearly black blooms have a feathery, thistlelike appearance.

For continuous blooms, deadhead regularly. After the first flush of flowers is done, cut back plants for a tidier appearance and potential rebloom in fall. It readily self-seeds, ensuring its dark, spidery flowers return year after year with little effort. Bees and butterflies flock to its nectar-rich blooms. Long-lasting as a fresh cut flower or when dried, ‘Black Sprite’ is a versatile addition to any garden.

Type: Perennial 
Blooms: Black-purple flowers from midspring to midsummer with possible rebloom in fall
Light: Full sun 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 12 to 24 in. tall, 20 to 24 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9 

‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris (Iris hybrid)

Flourishing in moisture-rich environments, ‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris is a natural fit for rain gardens, pond edges and damp borders. The wetter the soil, the more vigorous its growth. This plant can even be grown in up to 6 inches of standing water and adapts well to clay soils. Satiny, near black standards and falls accented by rusty-orange signals reach up to 4 to 6 inches across, making ‘Black Gamecock’ Louisiana iris a bold standout in the garden.

Heat- and humidity-tolerant, it thrives even in sandy soil as long as moisture is consistent. Blooming from late spring into early summer, just as many spring flowers begin to fade, this plant attracts pollinators while remaining unappealing to deer. Over time, it forms lush, spreading clumps that can be divided every few years to expand its presence in the garden.

Type: Bulb; deer resistant; North American native
Blooms: Satiny near black standards and falls with rusty-orange signals in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Moist to wet, well-drained 
Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall and wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9 

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Persian lily (Fritillaria persica)

Standing tall like a sentinel of the midnight garden, Persian lily is an unforgettable spring bloomer. Its long, elegant spikes are adorned with rows of dusky plum to near black, bell-shaped flowers and silvery green, lance-shaped foliage, creating a striking vertical accent in garden beds.

Native to the rocky slopes of Turkey and Iran, Persian lily is well adapted to dry, well-drained soils and thrives in full sun, making it an excellent choice for rock gardens, Mediterranean-style plantings or gravel beds. If you live in warmer regions, provide plants with afternoon shade to prevent burning flowers and foliage. Avoid heavy, saturated soils, which can cause the bulbs to rot. If your soil tends to be on the wet side, plant bulbs on a slope, in raised beds or in containers to improve their chance of survival.

Growing tips

Plant Persian lily in early fall, about 6 inches deep, in a spot that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight per day. Persian lily is naturally drought tolerant, requiring little water once established, though occasional deep watering during the growing season will promote stronger blooms. After the flowers fade, allow the foliage to die back naturally, as it helps store energy for the next season. Though not a prolific spreader, bulbs will multiply over time, creating larger, more impressive clumps each year.

Type: Bulb; deer resistant
Blooms: Plum to gray-green, bell-shaped flowers in mid- to late spring 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained 
Size: 12 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8 

‘Edge of Night’ calla lily (Zantedeschia hybrid)

A perfect blend of drama and sophistication, ‘Edge of Night’ calla lily commands attention with its burgundy, near black trumpet blooms and gracefully curled edges. Even when not in bloom, its deep green, lance-shaped leaves speckled with silvery white flecks keep the plant visually interesting.

Growing tips

Plant ‘Edge of Night’ in full sun to part shade, offering afternoon shade in hotter climates to prevent leaf scorch. It thrives in rich, well-drained soil with consistent moisture but should never sit in waterlogged conditions, as excessive moisture can cause rot. Plant rhizomes 3 to 4 inches deep, with the growing tips facing upward, and water regularly throughout the growing season. Remove the flowers as they start to fade, pulling the entire stem out at the base. In zones 7 and colder, lift rhizomes in fall and store in a cool, dry place until spring. In zones 8 and warmer, they can remain in the ground with a 1- to 2-inch layer of mulch for winter protection.

Grow ‘Edge of Night’ in borders, along shaded pathways or near water features where its flowers make an eye-catching focal point. It also performs beautifully in moist garden beds and thrives in containers on a patio. You can even keep it indoors in a bright, sunny location.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); deer resistant
Blooms: Burgundy-black trumpet blooms and variegated foliage in summer 
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Moist, well-drained 
Size: 24 to 28 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11 

‘Dark Side of the Moon’ astilbe (Astilbe hybrid)

Astilbes are known for their soft, feathery plumes, but ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ adds a bold, unexpected twist. Unlike typical astilbes with bright green foliage, this variety emerges yellow with a dark margin, gradually deepening to rich chocolate brown as the season progresses. The more sun it receives, the more intense the foliage color becomes. By midsummer, rosy-purple flower spikes rise above the dark leaves for a spectacular display.

Growing tips

While astilbes tolerate occasional dryness, consistent moisture during the growing season ensures the best blooms and healthiest foliage. Deadheading spent flowers helps keep the plant tidy, though the dried seedheads add texture and interest into fall. To keep plants from overcrowding, divide clumps every few years by digging up the entire root ball and separating it into sections in early spring or late fall.

Grow ‘Dark Side of the Moon’ in beds, borders, woodland gardens and cutting gardens, where its dramatic foliage and vibrant blooms can shine. For contrast, pair it with silver- or chartreuse-leaved plants. The blooms also make excellent cut flowers for fresh or dried arrangements.

Type: Perennial 
Blooms: Rosy purple feathery flower plumes in summer and dark chocolate brown foliage
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Average or moist, well-drained
Size: 20 to 22 in. tall, 28 to 34 in. in bloom, 24 to 28 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9 
Source: Bluestone Perennials, bluestoneperennials.com, 800-852-5243

Black mondo grass (Ophiopogon planiscapus)

Few plants offer the bold contrast of black mondo grass in a midnight garden. With deep purple-black, strappy leaves reaching 8 to 12 inches tall, this slow-growing perennial forms a dense, grasslike ground cover that adds a rich, velvety texture to beds, borders and pathways. Its almost jet-black foliage creates the perfect backdrop for lighter-hued plants, while its tidy, clumping habit makes it an easy fit in any moody landscape. Although it thrives in part shade, it develops its best color in full sun. In warmer climates, providing afternoon shade prevents the foliage from scorching.

Did you know?

Despite its name, black mondo grass isn’t a true grass — it belongs to the asparagus family, which also includes lilies, yucca and many houseplants, such as spider plants.

In summer, delicate pale pink flowers emerge, followed by shiny black berries the birds love to snack on and that persist into fall, adding another layer of interest. Water regularly during its first season to establish strong roots — once settled, it’s remarkably drought-tolerant. For a neat appearance, trim old foliage to the ground before new leaves emerge in spring.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Deep purple-black, strappy foliage and pink flowers in summer followed by black berries
Light: Full sun to part shade 
Soil: Average, well-drained
Size: 6 to 9 in. tall, 10 to 12 in. wide 
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 6 to 10 

Plant a front garden with multiseason plants for nonstop curb appeal

When Ryan McEnaney moved into his Minnesota home a few years ago, the narrow border where a foundation planting used to be was completely empty. As the marketing and communications manager for Bailey Nurseries, he didn’t want to live in a home with no garden, so he designed this unique planter box that’s raised bed, windowbox and foundation planting all in one.

Filled with annuals, perennials and shrubs, it provides bright flowers and foliage from spring to frost. Greenery, colorful stems and seasonal decor keep it looking great through winter. Neighbors and passersby are fascinated by the ever-changing scene — in fact they’ll often stop by with questions or compliments when Ryan is working in the front yard.

Let’s take a look at how he came up with this head-turning design, and scroll to the bottom of the article to find the key plant list!

Before

With no plants in the spot where a foundation planting used to be, Ryan came up with a simple and creative plan to quickly brighten up the north-facing front yard.

Boost curb appeal with a custom planter

Ryan custom built this planter with pressure-treated dimensional lumber from the local home improvement store. The sidewalk angles toward the front door, leaving an irregular space between it and the house. So he planned accordingly, making the 24-foot-long planter 4 feet wide at the driveway and 2 feet wide close to the front door. This left space between the planter and the sidewalk for a few annuals and perennials to soften the wall of the planter. The open slats in the planter’s sides mean that the soil has a tendency to dry out. Expect to water it more than you would an in-ground planting. And always provide extra water for the first year to help plants get established.

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The front garden planting in summer

Design a multilevel planter box

The planter boxes vary in height from 1 to 3½ feet tall, which gives small starter plants added punch right away. To leave the windows unobstructed, Ryan grows compact shrubs, such as Summer Crush bigleaf hydrangea and Lucky Devil ninebark, and keeps others shorter than 4 feet tall with pruning. Eventually a few of the original shrubs grew too big, so Ryan moved them to the border in the backyard and replaced them.

Use color to boost curb appeal

Ryan wanted colors that would pop against the siding, especially during the shady parts of the day, and raspberry pink Summer Crush bigleaf hydrangea does just that. And the contrast between the chartreuse- and burgundy-leafed plants grabs attention even from the street.

Front garden planting in fall

Create an ever-changing planting

Foundation plantings need to look good all year, and this group doesn’t disappoint. In spring, fresh new foliage is accented by tulips (Tulipa hybrids) and daffodils (Narcissus spp. and hybrids) tucked near the front of the planter. Ryan adds new ones annually to ensure a colorful display. The foliage fills in and flowers really take off in summer. Low-growing China asters rebloom with deadheading, while Bloomstruck bigleaf hydrangea’s blue to purple blooms and Pop Star’s lacecap flowers last for weeks before aging to tan. Mums, coral bells and Eclipse bigleaf hydrangea provide a rich fall color palette that really turns heads. Once a hard frost kicks off the winter season, evergreen shrubs and dried hydrangea blooms take center stage and are supplemented with evergreen branches, birch logs and colorful dogwood stems.

Add shrubs as the backbone

Just like an in-ground foundation planting, shrubs are the backbone of this planter. Upright panicle hydrangea and bright yellow Tiger Eyes cutleaf staghorn sumac provide punctuation between repeated soft mounds of bigleaf hydrangea. Ryan positioned the taller sumac on the wall between the windows to fill the empty space with color.

Terrific trailing plants

Annuals are a great way to boost color and bridge the gaps between bloom times. Ryan used a lot of them early on to fill the space between smaller perennials and shrubs. As those plant have matured, there’s less room for annuals. But there’s always room for a few trailers. Just like in a windowbox, you can tuck them near the front so they flow over and soften the edge.

The first year, Ryan planted the vigorous sweet potato vines (Ipomoea batatas) in the summer bed — one plant can take up a lot of space and put on a big show. However, as the shrubs and perennials grew larger, smaller trailers, such as English ivy (Hedera helix) and licorice plant (Helichrysum petiolare), were easier to work into the design.

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Recreate the look of this front garden

Key plants in this front garden design

Check out the lettered photo above and find the corresponding plants in the list below to grow your own front yard garden packed with curb appeal.

A) Garden mum (Chrysanthemum hybrid)
Perennial; deep purple flowers from late summer to fall; full sun; 12 to 24 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

B) 'Shenandoah' switchgrass (Panicum virgatum)
Perennial; wispy pink blooms mature to tan mid- to late summer; full sun; 3 to 4 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

C) Pop Star ^® bigleaf hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla)
Shrub; electric blue or bright pink (depending on soil pH) lacecap blooms from early summer to frost; full sun to part shade; 18 to 36 in. tall and wide; zones 4 to 9

D) 'Wood's Blue' aster (Symphyotrichum hybrid)
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); blue aster-shaped flowers in late summer; full sun; 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11

E) Lucky Devil^® ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
Shrub; white spring flowers, gold foliage from spring to summer changes to orange in fall; full sun; 3 to 4 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7

F) Zinnia (Zinnia marylandica)
Annual; double white blooms from late spring to frost; full sun; 12 to 18 in. tall and wide

G) Coral bells (Heuchera hybrids)
Perennial; pink, red or white blooms in late spring or midsummer; full sun to part shade; 6 to 18 in. tall, 10 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

H) Berry White^® panicle hydrangea (H. paniculata)
Shrub; white aging to dark pink pyramidal-shaped blooms in early summer to fall; full sun to part shade; 6 to 7 ft. tall, 4 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

I) Tiger Eyes^® cutleaf staghorn sumac (Rhus typhina)
Shrub; deeply cut chartreuse spring leaves mature to yellow with rosy pink leaf stems, bright red fall foliage; full sun to part shade; 3 to 6 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

J) BloomStruck^® bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla)
Shrub; rose-pink or blue-purple flowers (depending on the soil pH) in late spring to fall, red-purple stems and petioles; full sun to part shade; 3 to 4 ft. tall, 4 to 5 ft. wide; full sun to part shade; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

K) Fireside^® ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)
Shrub; pale pink spring flowers accent red-purple new growth that matures to deep purple by fall; full sun; 4 to 6 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 7

L) Eclipse^® bigleaf hydrangea (H. macrophylla)
Shrub; cranberry pink blooms from early summer to frost, deep purple leaves that hold their color all season; full sun to part shade; 3 to 5 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

M) Flowerful^® smooth hydrangea (H. arborescens )
Shrub; white flowers from early summer to fall; full sun to part shade; 3 to 4 ft. tall, 4 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

N) Black-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia fulgida)
Perennial; golden yellow daisy-shaped blooms from late summer to fall; full sun to part shade; 24 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

O) 'Purpurascens' flame grass (Miscanthus hybrid)
Perennial; silver-pink flowers mature to tan in fall; full sun; 3 to 9 ft. tall, 2 to 6 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

P) English ivy (Hedera helix)
Perennial; green-and-white variegated foliage from spring to frost; full sun to part shade; 6 to 8 in. tall, spreading; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

2025 Reader Garden Award Winners Have Been Selected!

Every year, our annual Reader Garden Award celebrates the creativity, passion and vision of garden enthusiasts who have transformed their outdoor spaces into inspiring, functional and beautiful environments. Readers from across North America submit spectacular spaces that feature thoughtful layouts, inspired plant selections and plenty of personality.

These incredible gardens make our job of judging increasingly challenging, but all votes have been tabulated, and we're excited to begin announcing our 2025 runners-up in the coming months, culminating with the winning gardener in our Winter issue. Thanks again to Jung Seed for sponsoring the 2025 award and providing prizes for our winners.

2025 Reader Garden Award Grand Prize Winners: Sue & Bob Olson!

Congratulations to our top winners this year, Sue and Bob Olson of Mankato Minnesota. Join us for a tour of their inspiring backyard, where a mixture of perennials, annuals, bulbs, and trees and shrubs keeps the color going from early spring through late fall.

Meet Sue's favorite easy-care perennials and see how she uses begonias to pop color in throughout the borders. Finally, hear how they share their plants (and love of gardening) with their community. We're sure that you'll be just as charmed by their stories as we are! Watch our Talk & Tour video from our visit in August to see the garden at it's peak.

Look for the full garden feature in our Winter issue of Garden Gate magazine!

Meet our 2025 Runners-Up!

2025 Reader Garden Runner-Up: Lonna Engel from Williamsport, PA

Explore Lonna's shady garden haven, appropriately named Painted Leaf Hosta Garden, home to her collection of more than 900 hosta cultivars, including specimens as small as a dime to those as large as 7 feet across and in almost every color and variation imaginable! Read more about the garden here.

2025 Reader Garden Runner-Up: Becky Short from Macungie, PA

For Becky, the joy of gardening has been in the journey. Meaningful memories can be found throughout her yard, from the knot garden inspired by a vacation in England to a replica of the historic Tayloe House in Colonial Williamsburg. Pieces of inspiration get stitched together throughout the space to create something cohesive yet completely unique. Read more about Becky's garden here.

Now Accepting Submissions for the 2026 Reader Garden Award!

Enter your own garden for a chance to be photographed and featured in a future issue of Garden Gate magazine. Find full entry guidelines here:2026 Garden Gate Reader Garden Award.

How To Enter:

Submit via Email (preferred method of entry):
Email your information and a link to your images in cloud storage (Dropbox, Google Drive, Amazon Cloud Drive, etc.) to ReaderGarden@aimmedia.com

Submit via mail:
Reader Garden Award
Garden Gate Magazine
2143 Grand Avenue,
Des Moines, IA 50312

Enter your garden by January 6th, 2026. Open to U.S. and Canadian residents.

Check Out Our Previous Winners

See the designs that have won in the past, and find ideas to inspire your future creations:

• 2024: Multiseason Beauty with Perennials & Flowering Trees
  
• 2023: Grand Garden Experiment
  
• 2022: Charming Southern Backyard Garden
  
• 2021: Beautiful Hillside Garden
  
• 2020: Urban Garden Retreat
  

Try these products to spruce up your outdoor space

Want to get even more out of your outdoor space? Whether you’re working with a big backyard or a petite patio, a few well-curated products can make it more comfortable, stylish, and fun to use. We’ve rounded up some of our favorite picks for the season that make outdoor living a little more enjoyable.

Pappelina Boo Reversible Indoor/Outdoor Swedish Woven Plastic Area Rug

We found this luxurious area rug from Fjørn above to be a great investment at our test garden. Woven by Swedish artisans, it puts a finishing touch on your patio, deck or sunroom. It is made of phthalate-free PVC plastic that is nontoxic, 100% recyclable, doesn’t emit microplastics and is UV resistant so it won’t fade. You can vacuum, power wash or machine wash the smaller sizes of this rug to keep it looking sharp. Available in five sizes and six colors.

6x8.75-foot rug in Haze/Vanilla pictured above.

Source: Fjørn, fjorn.com

Watex^® Mobile Green Wall, Single Frame

Keep salad greens, herbs or colorful flowers close at hand to your outdoor dining area in this vertical garden from Watex, perfect for the deck or patio. The 45-inch-tall kit is easy to assemble. Nine 5x5-inch BPA-free recycled plastic pots and two 15x8-inch planters hang securely from the metal frame. It’s on casters so you can roll it wherever you need. Includes a pre-assembled drip irrigation line with emitters that clip into each planter to make watering easy!

Available in four colors.

Source:Amazon, amazon.com

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RailScapes^™ Plant Clips

Create a vertical garden on your porch, deck or balcony railing with these lightweight, easy-to-install metal frames. Squeeze the frame to fit two side wings between adjacent spindles, and let tension hold the clip in place. It holds a variety of pot shapes up to 10 inches in diameter and up to 15 pounds. Available in two sizes to fit metal spindles or wood and vinyl rails.

Source:Plant Traps, planttraps.com

Take a Roll Paper Towel Holder

Tired of paper towels rolling around your trunk and getting dirty or blowing away in the wind? This heavy-duty plastic paper towel holder keeps paper towels clean, dry and secure. It’s perfect for a picnic, in the greenhouse or in the back of the car. Made in the USA and available in five colors. Fits most standard-sized rolls.

Source:The Roll Gear, therollgear.com

Beurer Insect Bite Relief Device

If you are tortured by mosquito bites every summer, carry this compact battery-operated device with you to alleviate the itch. Press the heating plate to a mosquito or bee sting for 3 seconds. You’ll feel a zing as the heat neutralizes the insect venom and relieves the itching and swelling.

Product precaution

Be sure to read the instructions: Don’t use if you have skin sensitivities or on children under 3. Some may be more sensitive than others.

Source:Amazon, amazon.com

Design a garden to please the senses

Imagine walking through a well-designed sensory garden where every turn offers a new experience— whether it’s the soothing sound of rustling grasses, the vibrant colors of blooming flowers, the soft touch of velvety leaves, the intoxicating scent of a rose or the taste of fresh fruits and vegetables straight from the garden.

Whether you’re starting from scratch or enhancing an existing space, there are plenty of ways to heighten the sensory experience of your garden. Let’s explore a few of them.

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Designing for the sense of sight

Think about the first thing you see when you enter a garden. Is it the colorful blooms that immediately catch your eyes? Maybe it’s a striking focal point, like the bright red arbor in the photo above, or perhaps it’s the carefully designed paths and borders that guide your gaze. But ever notice how the longer you’re in a garden, the more you see? A well-designed sensory garden reveals layers of interest as you move through it.

Create balance with color

A color palette can inspire feelings of happiness and tranquility or make a bold, dramatic statement. If you want a unified, polished look, try sticking to a cohesive theme that reflects the mood you wish to create. You might opt for bright oranges and reds that energize, soft blues and purples that calm or vibrant yellows that uplift the spirit. In the photo above, the front entry bed beautifully sets the stage for the rest of the garden. The lime-green foliage and white flowers near the front of the border come forward and draw the eye to the inviting front porch while the deep green boxwoods (Buxus spp. and hybrids) recede into the background. Although shape is a more subtle visual cue than color, the repeated forms of the round boxwoods and mounded barberry (Berberis thunbergii) help create a unified look throughout the border.

As you plan your sensory garden, don’t forget to incorporate plants that offer seasonal interest. Bulbs that burst into bloom in spring, annuals that provide summer color and perennials that continue to shine well into fall will ensure your space remains vibrant throughout the year.

Add a focal point in the garden

The striking panicle hydrangea standard (Hydrangea paniculata) above helps anchor the border and provides a visual transition between the lower plants in the bed and taller trees in the backyard. If you’re looking to create a similar effect, position a striking specimen plant or feature at a key spot, such as the end of a path or near a seating area.

Designing a garden for the sense of touch

The sense of touch is often overlooked in gardens, but it can be one of the most rewarding ways to connect with your surroundings. Incorporating a variety of textures and creating designated tactile areas invites interaction. By placing plants within easy reach along pathways, in containers on a patio or seating areas, you naturally encourage visitors to engage with the garden.

Play with textures in a sensory garden

Mix and match plants with varied leaf textures. In the photo above, the smooth, blue-green leaves of hostas (Hosta spp. and hybrids) contrast beautifully with the feathery fronds of ferns. The cascading habit and finely cut foliage of a Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) practically beg to be touched as you stroll along the stone path. Ground covers soften the edges of pathways and create a tactile experience underfoot. Trees planted close to the path invite you to brush your hand against their rough or smooth bark, offering another layer of sensory discovery. The exfoliating bark of oakleaf hydrangeas (Hydrangea quercifolia) offers fascinating color and texture, especially in winter.

Design a tactile zone

Creating a designated area for tactile exploration adds a playful element to your sensory garden, especially for children. A sandbox filled with pebbles, wood chips or sand encourages kids to dig, touch and explore. Let them feel the sand run through their fingers, squish mud between their toes and tickle a friend with a fluffy celosia plume.

Add these plants that are fun to touch

Choose varieties with fuzzy leaves and soft surfaces for a unique tactile experience.

• Celosia (Celosia argentea cristata)
  Annual; velvety and plush or papery depending on the variety, these fluffy flower heads bloom in shades of orange, red, purple, yellow and cream from summer until frost; 6 to 36 in. tall, 8 to 24 in. wide
  

• Lamb’s ear (Stachys byzantina)
  Perennial; extremely soft, silver-gray leaves have a velvety texture and stay evergreen in warmer climates; purple flowers in early summer; 9 to 18 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8
  

• Mexican bush sage (Salvia leucantha)
  Tender perennial; velvety gray-green leaves and fuzzy, purple and white bicolor flowers from late summer to frost make this plant a delight to touch; 24 to 40 in. tall, 28 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 10
  

Desiging for the sense of smell

Fragrance has the power to evoke memories, relax the mind and invigorate the spirit. Strolling along the path under the arbor in the photo below, you can relish the sweet scent of the roses (Rosa spp. and hybrids). Make the most of fragrant plants by placing them near paths or seating areas, where their scents are easily enjoyed. Position shrubs or trees near windows, allowing their fragrance to drift through, so you can appreciate the scent of your sensory garden both inside and out.

Multiseason aromas

To create a space that offers a symphony of scents, plant a mix of perennials, trees and shrubs that bloom at different times throughout the season. The delicate sweetness of lilacs in spring can give way to the heady perfume of honeysuckle (Lonicera sempervirens) in summer, followed by the rich, spicy notes of autumn sage (Salvia greggii) as the season winds down. For an evening delight, consider night-blooming flowers like common jasmine (Jasminum officinale), which releases its intoxicating scent in the cool night air.

Spice it up with edible & fragrant plants

Herbs not only add fragrance when touched, but also provide fresh flavors for your kitchen. Plant them in easily accessible spots near your patio or kitchen door so you can grab a handful whenever you need them. Ground covers, such as creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), release a pleasant aroma when brushed up against or stepped on.

Add fragrance to the garden with these plants

Plant these varieties to fill your sensory garden with captivating scents that create a lasting sensory experience.

• Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris)
  Shrub; white, pink or purple spring flower clusters have a sweet, floral fragrance with a hint of vanilla; 6 to 15 ft. tall, 1 to 12 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8
  

• Gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides)
  Evergreen; single or double white flowers have a sweet, floral fragrance with a hint of citrus and bloom in late spring to early summer; 3 to 8 ft. tall, 3 to 6 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11
  

• ‘Leonard Messel’ magnolia (Magnolia x loebneri)
  Tree; white to purple-pink early spring flowers have a sweet fragrance with a hint of citrus; 10 to 20 ft. tall, 10 to 18 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9
  

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Designing a garden to appeal to the sense of taste

A sensory garden wouldn’t be complete without a space dedicated to culinary plants. Stepping outside and harvesting fresh fruits, vegetables and herbs at the peak of their flavor, brings a special satisfaction. Position a small kitchen garden near your outdoor dining area, making it easy to gather fresh ingredients just steps away from your table.

Mix vegetable into garden beds

Integrating crops into the front perennial beds or borders, such as the lettuce in the photo above, ensures they are within reach for effortless harvesting. Stroll through your garden and pick ripe fruit from trees placed along pathways or near seating areas. Raspberries offer a sweet summer treat; the tasty flowers of nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) add a pop of color and flavor to salads, and strawberries and tomatoes are perfect for growing in containers on the patio. Trellises and vertical gardens provide space-saving solutions for climbing plants, such as pole beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) or cucumbers (Cucumis sativus), doubling as natural privacy screens that evolve with each season.

To protect your harvest from wildlife, sometimes it helps to place plants closer to the house or cover ripening fruit with netting.

Container-friendly crops

Grow these compact plants in pots on your patio for quick and convenient harvesting.

• ‘Patio Choice Yellow’ cherry tomato (Solanum lycopersicum)
  Annual; round, yellow summer fruits grow on highly productive determinate plants that are great for containers; 1 to 2 ft. tall and wide
  

• ‘Seascape’ strawberry (Fragaria x ananassa)
  Perennial; highly productive, white flowers in spring and large red berries in summer, strong disease resistance; evergreen in warmer regions; 12 in. tall, 12 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9
  

• ‘Cherry Stuffer’ sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum)
  Annual; 2-inch red summer fruits are perfect for snacking, stuffing or grilling and grow well in containers; 24 to 32 in. tall, 28 in. wide
  

Incorporate sound in your sensory garden

The gentle rustle of leaves, the chirping of birds and the hum of bees can turn any garden into a symphony of natural music. Consider planting grasses that sway and rustle in the breeze. Add a water feature, such as a small fountain or birdbath, for the soothing sound of flowing water. A gravel pathway like the one you see above will produce a soft crunching sound as you further explore. Wind chimes made of different materials — wood, metal or glass — can add a musical touch as they catch the wind.

Invite birds

Attract birds to your garden by adding feeders and nesting boxes. Their cheerful songs will intertwine with the rustling leaves and flowing water to create a lively soundtrack that brings your landscape to life. Draw in a variety of birds by growing plants whose berries feed them, such as viburnum (Viburnum spp. and hybrids) and downy serviceberry (Amelanchier arborea), and providing fresh seed and fruit when natural food sources are scarce.

Block out unwanted noise

Use hedges and fences to cancel out unwanted noise from nearby roads or neighbors. This not only enhances privacy but also helps maintain the peaceful atmosphere of your sensory garden. For those moments when you want to set the mood with your own music, add discreet outdoor speakers that resemble rocks to seating areas or tuck them in along a path where they can blend seamlessly with the environment.

Add plants with an element of sound

For an extra element of sound, select plants with rustling leaves and rattling seed heads.

• Honesty (Lunaria annua)
  Perennial; delicate, coinlike dried seed pods create a soft, crackling noise as they sway in the breeze; purple flowers in early to late spring; 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9
  

• Love-in-a-mist (Nigella damascena)
  Annual; round, horned seed capsules rattle when shaken; spidery blue, white or pink flowers in early summer; 18 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
  

• Quaking grass (Briza media)
  Grass; flat hopslike, purple maturing to tan seed heads make a soft, quaking or rattling sound in the wind; tiny green flowers in spring; 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8