7 Ways to Set Up Your Garden for a Beautiful, Protected Spring

Spring is full of promise. Beds are cleaned up, new plants added, and every fresh shoot feels like the start of something beautiful. But spring is also when gardens are most vulnerable. Tender growth can be set back by late cold, pounding rain, hungry pests, and browsing animals that seem to know exactly when the best plants have emerged.

That is why a beautiful spring garden is not just about adding color. It is about setting the space up to thrive. The smartest gardens combine strong early care, thoughtful planting, and protection from the start. Here are seven ways to do just that.

1. Start with a cleaner, crisper canvas

Before adding anything new, refresh the garden you already have. Clear away winter debris, cut back what truly needs cutting, pull visible weeds, and redefine bed edges. Even a modest cleanup can make the whole space feel brighter and more intentional.

There is no need to strip everything bare all at once, though. Beneficial insects may still be sheltering in stems and leaf litter early in the season. A gradual cleanup is often the better approach, especially if you focus first on what blocks new growth or makes the garden look untidy. The goal is not to erase winter overnight. It is to help spring take center stage.

2. Feed the soil before you feed the eye

Healthy spring color starts below ground. If the soil surface has crusted over or compacted during winter, loosen it gently and top-dress with compost or other organic matter. That helps roots get better access to air and moisture and gives plants a stronger start as growth picks up.

This may not be the flashiest spring task, but it supports everything that comes next. Better soil leads to steadier growth, stronger flowering, and plants that are better able to handle spring’s sudden swings between cold, wet weather and warm, drying winds.

3. Add color where it matters most

Not every bed needs a total redo, but nearly every garden has a few places that deserve attention first. Focus on the spots you see every day: the front walk, the patio area, around the entry, or outside a favorite window.

Tuck in cool-season annuals, early bloomers, or colorful containers where they will have the most impact. Then think in layers. Low plants in front, mounded shapes through the middle, and a few taller accents behind will make the planting feel fuller and more pulled together than a scattered mix of spring flowers.

4. Put protection in place before the garden becomes a target

This is the step many gardeners put off until something gets eaten. Unfortunately, by then, the damage is already done.

Fresh spring growth is especially tempting, which makes early season the ideal time to protect vulnerable areas such as cutting gardens, vegetable beds, new borders, and favorite ornamental plantings. A metal deer fence is especially effective in spring because it protects the garden without drawing attention away from it. Rather than feeling bulky or obtrusive, it allows the planting itself to remain the focus.

“A lot of gardeners wait until they actually see damage, but by then those tender spring plants have already taken a hit,” said Stephanie Anderson, customer support manager at DeerBusters. “If deer or other browsing animals are common in your area, it really helps to put protection in place early, before that fresh new growth starts drawing them in.”

5. Do not forget the lower-level damage

Not every garden problem comes from larger animals. In many yards, the real frustration happens lower down with chewed stems, dug-in beds, and damage from smaller animals that slip through wider openings.

If that sounds familiar, it helps to look beyond the main perimeter and strengthen the lower part of the garden where needed. A metal chew or rodent barrier at the base of a fence can make a real difference around high-value beds, young plantings, and edible gardens. It is a practical way to protect vulnerable growth near the soil line without changing the overall look of the space.

“People often focus on deer and forget about the damage that happens closer to the ground,” Anderson said. “If rabbits or other small animals are part of the problem, adding protection at the base can save a lot of frustration and help young plants get established.”

6. Make access part of the plan

A protected garden still needs to be easy to use. When gardeners think about fencing, they often focus on keeping animals out and overlook how they themselves will move through the space. Plan entry points while you are planning the layout. Where will you need to walk in with tools, watering cans, or a wheelbarrow? Which beds need the easiest access for deadheading, harvesting, or routine upkeep? A well-placed gate makes a protected garden easier to care for, and that usually means it will stay more attractive all season.

“You want protection to work with the way you actually use the garden,” Anderson said. “Easy access matters, especially when you’re going in and out for watering, weeding, harvesting, or regular upkeep.”

7. Build for more than one moment of bloom

One of the biggest spring gardening mistakes is planning for one spectacular week instead of a longer, more graceful season. The best beds unfold in stages. As one plant peaks, another begins to rise. As one bloom fades, foliage or later performers begin to carry the show forward. Use spring planting to build that sequence.

Pair bulbs with perennials that will help cover fading foliage. Mix flower shapes and leaf textures. Add a few shrubs or structural plants to anchor the display. Once the garden is protected, it is much easier to plan confidently for what comes next instead of constantly replacing what was lost.

A beautiful spring garden is a protected one

Spring gardening should feel hopeful, not frustrating. And in many landscapes, beauty lasts longer when it is protected from the start. A little cleanup, better soil, layered color, and a thoughtful fencing plan can make a remarkable difference.

The payoff is not just a prettier garden — it is a stronger one throughout the summer and beyond. When the framework is in place early, the whole season feels easier to enjoy and much less like a race to stay ahead of the damage.

Want to keep spring beds beautiful from the start?Explore DeerBusters’ nearly invisible garden fencing and practical resources for protecting flower beds, vegetable gardens, and other vulnerable plantings.

Shop Garden Protection at DeerBusters.com

Photos courtesy of DeerBusters

Stepping into the garden and discovering that the plants you’ve lovingly nurtured are now looking ragged, or even stripped bare, is incredibly frustrating. Voracious insect pests can quickly unravel your hard work and shatter your garden dreams.

Finding the culprit is the first step to getting your garden back on track. While many pests are widespread, I talked with experts from various regions to find out which ones were causing the most trouble in their areas and what you can do about them. One thing they all agreed on: Tackling pest problems with integrated pest management (IPM) is easier on the environment and helps prevent pesticide resistance.

What is IPM?

This decision-making approach for pest control starts with low-environmental-impact strategies first, then steps up the strength of the response if necessary. For example, when you notice damage, use an insect identification app or check your county extension resources to pinpoint the culprit. Then decide how much damage you can tolerate. If you’re willing to wait it out, many pest problems fizzle as the moisture or temperatures change, and most plants will bounce back with new growth in just a few weeks.

More About IPM Practices:
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IPM Basics: Controlling Pests
IPM Basics: Controlling Garden Diseases

If you find that a problem returns every year, the next level of prevention could include cultural practices, such as growing resistant varieties, rotating crops or using row cover or landscape fabric to prevent pests from laying eggs. If all else fails, the final step might be a targeted chemical control, whether it’s organic or synthetic. The idea is to be strategic and only do the minimum necessary to deal with the most damaging pests in your garden.

Find out which garden pests are causing issues in your region

We asked regional gardening experts which pests are causing issues in their part of the country and which ones to look out for. Click your region in the list below to find more details about each pest:

Pacific Northwest

• European earwig (Forficula auricularia)
• Bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius)
• Lookout for this rising pest:Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica)

Midwest

• Roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops)
• Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)
• Lookout for this rising pest:Spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

Southeast

• Larger canna leafroller (Calpodes ethlius)
• Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae)
• Lookout for this rising pest: Cotton jassid (Amrasca biguttula)

Northeast

• Four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus)
• Bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis)
• Lookout for this rising pest: Allium leaf miner (Phytomyza gymnostoma)

Regional Pest Watch: Midwest

Regional Expert: Kyle Broderick, Associate Extension Educator, Plant Pathology, University of Nebraska, Lincoln

Even with hot, humid summers and winter temperatures that get below 0 degrees F, there are lots of pests to battle in Midwest gardens. Our regional expert shares three to be on the lookout for along with helpful tips for identifying and managing them.

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Roseslug sawfly (Endelomyia aethiops)

These ½-inch-long yellow-green caterpillars with an orange head do all the damage and are active from spring to early summer. The adult looks like a fly but is actually a wasp.

What roseslug sawfly eats

This pest eats all kinds of roses (Rosa spp. and hybrids), but it is especially attracted to rambling roses.

Damage to look for

The caterpillar chews and scrapes the upper surface of leaves, creating a windowpane effect. Damage is mostly cosmetic and may diminish flowering, but it won’t kill the rose. Professor Broderick noticed that populations were high in recent years but finds that they tend to peak and wane over time.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Handpick caterpillars early in the season or spray them off with a strong stream of water. Beetles, birds, parasitic wasps and small mammals will feed on the roseslug sawfly. Insecticidal soap can help but must come into contact with the larvae to work. Spray both the upper and lower leaf surfaces in early morning or early evening, when cooler temperatures keep the soap from drying too quickly, so more larvae are affected.

Two-spotted spider mite (Tetranychus urticae)

These tiny arachnids measure 1⁄50 of an inch long and range in color from rusty green to brown, yellow, red or orange with two black spots on their backs. They are most active from spring through summer and produce multiple generations per year.

What two-spotted spider mites eat

Two-spotted spider mites are a problem for more than 200 plant species.

Damage to look for

Adults and nymphs (juveniles that look like the adults but are smaller) use piercing mouthparts to feed on the undersides of leaves, which causes a stippled or mottled look. As populations rise, plants look bronzed or bleached, leaves and flowers become distorted and these spider relatives produce webbing often found on the undersides of the leaves. They thrive in dry growing conditions and temperatures above 90 degrees F. Healthy plants can withstand some mites, but stressed ones may succumb.

IPM tips

To prevent infestations, use mulch, choose drought-tolerant plants and don’t fertilize during a drought. Spraying with water can help dislodge two-spotted spider mites from foliage.

Look out for this rising pest in the Midwest:

Spotted lanternfly (Lycorma delicatula)

The 1-inch-long spotted lanternfly adults have brown forewings with black spots and black, white and scarlet hind wings. They’re active from spring through fall and produce one generation of black to red nymphs per year.

What spotted lanternfly eats

First spotted in Pennsylvania in 2014, this colorful, invasive plant hopper is slowly spreading to other states. It feeds on more than 100 plant species, such as grape vines (Vitis spp.), hops (Humulus lupulus), maple (Acer spp. and hybrids) and fruit trees, along with a host of ornamental garden plants.

Damage to look for

Both nymphs and adults use piercing mouthparts to feed, which results in oozing sap, wilting, leaf curling and dieback. They also produce honeydew, which smells bad as it ferments and attracts wasps, ants and bees. The damage doesn’t usually kill plants but causes stress that allows other pests or diseases to move in.

IPM tips

Remove the weedy tree of heaven (Ailanthus altissima), as it is a favorite host plant. In fall, look for and remove the distinctive 1-inch-long egg masses, which look like smeared mud on tree trunks.

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Regional Pest Watch: Northeast

Regional Expert: Dr. Ana Legrand, PhD, Entomologist, University of Connecticut

Snow-covered winters and warm, humid summers create ideal growing conditions for plants—and garden pests. Our regional expert shares how to identify three common pests and the damage they can cause in your garden.

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Four-lined plant bug (Poecilocapsus lineatus)

This 1/3-inch-long green-yellow plant bug has four black stripes and is most active in late spring to early summer. The nymphs are bright red to orange with black spots on the abdomen.

Favorite plant

The four-lined plant bug is a pest of more than 250 plant species but seems especially fond of plants in the mint family.

Damage to look for

Both adults and nymphs use piercing mouthparts to feed on foliage. This causes black or brown spots that are often confused with fungal disease. In small numbers, four-lined plant bug feeding only makes the plants look bad. But with a big population, entire leaves can curl up and fall off. New growth may be deformed.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Insecticidal soap can get rid of nymphs. Handpick the larger adults. Dr. Legrand recommends holding a container of soapy water under infested foliage and tapping the plant so these fast-moving insects fall in and drown. Look closely at leaf stems for 2- to 3-inch-long scarring where females have made small slits to lay eggs. Remove these leaves and put them in the trash to prevent the next generation from developing.

Bagworm (Thyridopteryx ephemeraeformis)

You’re more likely to see the “bags,” or cases, than the gray caterpillars with dark splotches inside them. The bags start small and get larger as the caterpillar grows and adds more foliage pieces. Bagworms are active in spring through summer, producing one generation per year.

Favorite plants

Bagworms are attracted to a wide range of conifers, including arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis), juniper (Juniperus spp. and hybrids) and spruce (Picea abies). They’ll also feed on deciduous trees, such as sycamore (Platanus occidentalis), honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos f. inermis) and linden (Tilia spp.).

Damage to look for

Bagworm larvae eat the needles and foliage of their host tree. Though the damage is light at first, as the larvae grow they cause serious defoliation, which can be especially hard on evergreens.

IPM tips

Keep an eye out for the distinctive bags the larvae create from silk and bits of foliage from the host plant. Pull or cut them off and send them away in the trash. For larger trees or infestations, spray Bt when young bagworms emerge in late spring to early summer.

Rising pest to look out for in the Northeast:

Allium leaf miner (Phytomyza gymnostoma)

The small gray 1/8-inch-long flies have a yellow head and produce two generations of cream 5/16-inch-long larvae each year. They’re most active in spring and fall.

Favorite plant

Ornamental allium (Allium spp. and hybrids), chives, garlic and leeks are beginning to be attacked by this new invasive pest in Northeast gardens.

Damage to look for

In spring and fall, females lay eggs on the tips of allium leaves. The spring larvae tunnel through the leaves and leaf sheaths, causing disfigured foliage and creating openings for fungi and bacteria. In fall the larvae overwinter.

IPM tips

Insect netting or row cover can help prevent adults from laying eggs in spring. Keep an eye out for rows of white spots (the injury caused by egg laying) descending from leaf tips near the ends of the leaves, and remove any that you find. Rotate crops and clean up the garden in fall so larvae don’t have a place to overwinter.

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Regional Pest Watch: Pacific Northwest

Regional Expert: Nicole Sanchez, Associate Professor of Horticulture, Oregon State University

Mountain ranges create diverse growing environments here, with one side having fertile soil and regular winter rainfall, while the other is dry and arid. Our regional expert shares a couple of pests that can wreak havoc on your garden in the Pacific Northwest and one that is rising in the area to watch out for.

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European earwig (Forficula auricularia)

These red-brown ⅝-inch-long insects with long or short cerci (the pincerlike appendage in back) are most active in spring through fall and have one or two generations per year.

What European earwig eats

Though earwigs eat aphids and other insects, they also feed on seedlings, flowers, foliage, soft fruit and vegetables. Fast moving with a big tail-end pincer, this insect also has the startle factor when it darts out from under foliage or a container.

Damage to look for

Earwigs are most active at night, chewing holes in fruit, flowers and leaves. This voracious pest can decimate entire plants or a row of seedlings in a single feeding, then hides during the day.

Integrated pest management (IPM) tips

Professor Sanchez finds this homemade trap helpful in reducing earwig damage: She fills an empty 16-ounce plastic container about a third full with vegetable oil, adds a little soy sauce and cuts a few ½-inch holes in the lid before putting it back on the container. Then she digs a hole and positions the container flush with the ground. The soy sauce lures earwigs into the trap, where the oil smothers them. Each morning she empties the trap and sets it again for another night.

Bronze birch borer (Agrilus anxius)

Slender green-bronze ⅜-inch-long flathead beetles are most active in early summer and produce one generation of ¾- to 1-inch-long cream larvae per year.

What bronze birch borer eats

This beetle is a serious problem in the Pacific Northwest, killing birch (Betula spp. and hybrids) trees of all kinds, especially white-barked types. River birch (Betula nigra) seems to be somewhat resistant.

Damage to look for

Sparse yellow foliage and twig dieback in the upper crown are an early clue that bronze birch borer larvae are burrowing through a tree and disrupting its nutrient flow. The decline can be reversed if you catch it early, but if more than 50 percent of the crown is damaged, it likely can’t be saved. Look for small ⅛- to ¼-inch D-shaped exit holes in the bark where adults have emerged or zigzag lines on the bark.

IPM tips

Drought stress makes birch trees especially vulnerable. Keep them growing strong by choosing a planting spot on the north or east side of the house, where it’s cooler, watering during dry spells and providing a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch.

Look out for this rising pest in the Pacific Northwest:

Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica)

Shiny green and bronze, this ⅓- to ½-inch-long beetle is most active in early to midsummer and produces one generation of C-shaped ⅛-inch- long white grubs per year.

What Japanese beetles eat

Japanese beetles have become common in the Eastern United States and Midwest but are only now making their way into the Pacific Northwest. It eats hundreds of different plants, but rose (Rosa spp. and hybrids), canna (Canna spp. and hybrids) and hibiscus (Hibiscus spp. and hybrids) are some favorites.

Damage to look for

Metallic-looking adults feed on the flowers and upper surfaces of leaves and skeletonize them. Flower petals have holes or are completely consumed. While the damage looks bad, it doesn’t usually kill the plant. Larvae nibble on turfgrass roots below ground, which causes brown patches in the lawn.

IPM tips

Protect small plants with row cover from June to September when adults are active. You can also pick and drop adults into a bucket of soapy water. Avoid pheromone traps — they attract even more beetles. To create a less hospitable environment for egg laying and young larvae, don’t water your lawn in mid- to late summer.

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Southeast region pest watch

The long growing season in the Southeast means lots of flowers and a plentiful harvest—unless pests take over. We asked two regional experts, and they shared three pests that can wreak havoc on your garden and that Southeast gardeners should watch for.

Regional Experts: Shimat Joseph, Associate Professor of Entomology, University of Georgia & Alton Sparks, Professor of Entomology, University of Georgia

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Larger canna leafroller (Calpodes ethlius)

Eggs laid by the 1-inch brown Brazilian skipper butterfly hatch and grow into this 2-inch-long translucent green caterpillar with an orange head. Both are active in summer, and there are two generations per year.

What larger canna leafroller eats

Cannas (Canna spp. and hybrids) are by far the favorite plant of this butterfly’s pesky larvae. It will occasionally feed on Indian arrowroot (Maranta arundinacea).

Damage to look for

The caterpillar secures part of the canna leaf around itself with a silk strand for protection while feeding. Generally, it stays on the same leaf, eating and molting before metamorphosing into a butterfly. Severe infestations can defoliate plants.

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) tips

Handpick and squish the larvae to kill them. If you’ve had problems in the past, avoid growing red-leafed canna varieties and those with red or orange flowers. For large populations, spray Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis). The caterpillars have to ingest this for it to be effective, so apply liberally to thoroughly coat the leaf.

Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae)

Dark red females grow ⅞ of an inch long and are covered with a white feltlike covering. Active in spring through summer, they produce two to four generations of pink nymphs per year.

What crape myrtle bark scale eats

Crape myrtle (Lagerstroemia indica) is by far the most common host for this invasive pest. Occasionally you’ll find it on beautyberry (Callicarpa americana), St. John’s wort (Hypericum spp. and hybrids) and boxwood (Buxus hybrids).

Damage to look for

Females and nymphs feed on the sap of small branches, twigs of trees and shrubs, and cluster around pruning cuts, causing poor growth, fewer flowers and leaf drop. Stem dieback can occur when populations are high. Bees and wasps are attracted to the scale’s honeydew, which can also cause sooty mold to develop.

IPM tips

Because of its covering, crape myrtle bark scale is a challenge to treat. This is still a relatively new pest, but researchers have found lady beetle larvae to be especially effective predators.

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Look out for this rising pest in the Southeast:

Cotton jassid (Amrasca biguttula)

The tiny ⅛-inch pale green cotton jassid has one dark spot on the back of each wing and moves diagonally, instead of straight ahead like most other insects. It’s active in summer, and each year it can produce up to 11 generations of pale green wingless nymphs that look similar to the adults.

What cotton jassid eats

Cotton jassid was first identified in Florida in 2024 and moved into Georgia and North Carolina in 2025. Cotton is a top choice for this invasive pest, but so is sunflower (Helianthus spp. and hybrids), tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis), okra and eggplant.

Damage to look for

You’re likely to see the damage before noticing the insect, so if your plants have yellowing foliage that eventually turns red-brown, check the undersides of the leaves, especially around the third to fifth leaves from the terminal (the leaf at the end of the stem), for insects. Both nymphs and adults feed on sap.

IPM tips

Researchers are still looking for solutions. Spiders, lady beetles, ants and green lacewings are possible predators. If you find cotton jassid in your garden, contact your local extension agency.

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How to identify crape myrtle bark scale?

Crape myrtle bark scale (Acanthococcus lagerstroemiae), or CMBS, was first reported in North America around 2004, and has spread rapidly wherever crape myrtles grow. Its damage is rarely fatal to otherwise healthy crape myrtles (Lagerstroemia spp. and hybrids), but it’s unsightly and can reduce vigor and flowering. In severe cases you might see stunted growth or a few dead branches.

In Southern climates, there can be up to four generations of this sap-sucking scale insect per year. So you might find different stages on a tree at any time. Small, feltlike white or pale gray egg sacs hang along branches. Eventually they open, each releasing up to 300 pink nymphs, which crawl and fasten themselves to the bark to begin feeding. Some may be carried to other crape myrtle trees by wind or water.

As the adults feed, they excrete a sweet, sticky honeydew. It sticks to crape myrtle’s leaves and bark (and anything else underneath), eventually turning to a sooty black mold.

How to get rid of crape myrtle bark scale

Horticultural oils will suffocate CMBS at any stage of life. Read the label to determine the right mixture for the time of year. But before you spray, scrub off some of the worst infestation with soapy water and a stiff brush.

Because there can be several generations each year, timing is hard to determine. You’ll most likely need to spray several times during the growing season. Scientists are investigating biological controls, and plant breeders are working toward CMBS-resistant crape myrtles. But at this point, research is ongoing.

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Every garden has a weed or two (thousand!). Here’s a basic IPM approach:

1. Set thresholds

Can you live with a few dandelions in the lawn? Does your formal perennial bed need to be pristine, or is there a spot to leave a milkweed (Asclepias spp.) or two for the monarch butterfly caterpillars to munch on? This will help you know whether you need to act right away when you see a weed.

2. Monitor garden weeds

Perennials that return every year from the roots like dandelion (Taraxacum officinale) may be harder to kill than annuals like lambsquarters (Chenopodium album) that live only one year and grow from seed. Get a weed manual to help you identify potential garden invaders.

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3. Prevent weeds

Lush, thick turf will choke out weeds, so fertilize and water to maintain a healthy lawn. Perennials grown close enough together to shade the soil will also discourage weed seeds from sprouting.

In vegetable gardens, try a cover crop, such as winter wheat (Triticum aestivum) — sow it in early fall so it sprouts and suppresses weeds. Turn the wheat under in the spring before planting, and it will add organic matter to the soil. Conversely, “no-till” methods leave the soil undisturbed, with a hard crust that weed seedlings can’t penetrate. Here you only cultivate a small area where you plant seeds.

Barriers, such as landscape fabric or newspaper, shown in the photo above, can keep weeds from growing for a season or more. If these cultural and physical approaches aren’t enough, take it a step further with a chemical pre-emergent herbicide in the spring to prevent seeds from sprouting in perennial beds.

4. Control garden weeds

Pulling weeds takes out the plant, root and all. But hoeing, mowing or cutting a weed off at the ground regularly will take its toll, and a plant will lose vigor and die without foliage to generate energy. What about those low-growing mats of weeds that you just can’t quite get out of the cracks of the driveway or patio? Try a flame torch to burn the foliage.

Goats, geese, sheep and cows are effective weed eliminators but not very selective and may eat every plant in sight. However, a few goats could clear an overgrown property in no time.

Precautions when using chemicals to control weeds

Finally, chemical herbicides can make quick, easy work of a weed problem. But always use them with caution — some are selective and labeled for broad-leafed plants or grasses, while others will kill any plant. Spot-treat weeds with a hand sprayer using an old bucket with the bottom cut out to isolate the target weed so overspray doesn’t damage nearby plants.

Watch the weather, and be extra careful when spreading or spraying herbicides over large areas — you don’t want any to blow, drift or wash off onto “good” plants or into storm drains.

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A few insects don’t usually cause a problem, but large populations can be devastating. So be prepared, because two tiny bugs can go forth and multiply into a population of biblical proportions in no time at all. See a basic IPM approach to controlling garden pests below.

IPM approach to pest control in the garden

1. Set thresholds

Is the whole plant defoliated, or are there just a few tattered leaves? Do you have to throw the whole pear away, or can you cut out the bad spots? Some insects you can ignore, but when your roses (Rosa spp. and hybrids) are stripped bare by Japanese beetles, it’s time to act.

2. Monitor insect populations

Since insect populations can multiply quickly, it’s important to examine your garden every day or two, and note any insects or chewed-up leaves. Traps are another way to see if populations are increasing. Fruit tree growers use traps that lure moths into a box where they can be counted. Sticky traps, like the yellow ones above, are another good way to count (and get rid of) small flying insects.

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3. Prevent insects

Start with healthy, robust plants — they’re better able to fight off an insect invasion. Cleaning up and disposing of dead foliage in the fall or early spring removes overwintering adults and eggs, preventing a new generation from emerging when the weather warms in the spring.

Deterrents are a great way to prevent insects from getting at what they want:

• Try row covers to create a barrier between plants and pests.
• Kaolin clay, a mineral applied as a spray, leaves a white film over the plants to repel pests. Used on fruit trees to deter codling moth, insects find the coated fruit unappetizing, but it is nontoxic — just wash produce thoroughly before eating.

4. Control

From handpicking egg masses, caterpillars or adults, like the Japanese beetles in the photo, to pruning out infested branches, to blasting critters off with a stream of water, physically destroying insects has low environmental impact. Predatory beneficial insects feed on many pests, such as aphids, spider mites and cabbage loopers. They need a high enough pest population to be attracted to a plant to feed there, so monitor for natural predators, and give nature a bit of time to act. Animals like frogs, snakes and birds are effective biological controls. Backyard chickens can even help.

Precautions when using chemicals to control garden insects

Sometimes a chemical treatment is the best or quickest option before a crop is ruined. Insecticidal soap and horticultural oils are sprays that work by coating an insect’s body, in effect suffocating them. Organic insecticides, such as pyrethrins, derived from chrysanthemums, and neem oil, from seeds of the neem tree, kill insects after they ingest the chemical while feeding. While relatively safe for humans, even organic pesticides have drawbacks, including killing nontarget beneficial insects, like honeybees and lady beetles.

Many synthetic insecticides are available at garden centers. Some are specific to certain kinds of insects; others will kill any that come in contact. Use these chemicals safely by following the label, and be sure your pest is listed for that chemical.

Controlling disease with integrated pest management

Plant diseases take hold when three things are present: a host plant, favorable environmental conditions and a pathogen, which may be viral, bacterial or fungal. Knowing this, the most important step in an IPM program will be preventive measures to thwart the convergence of those three factors.

4 steps to using IPM in the garden to control disease

1. Set thresholds

Does apple scab affect the fruit enough to be inedible, or just ugly? Is powdery mildew on garden phlox (Phlox paniculata) deforming the flowers, or just making the foliage dusty-looking? If the disease isn’t killing your plants or ruining your crop, you may decide it isn’t damaging enough to take action at first.

2. Monitor disease in the garden

With diseases, watching for signs (actual evidence of a pathogen) and symptoms (how the plant reacts) is important to stop them from spreading. Signs can include rust spots and molds, while symptoms might be yellow spots or veins on foliage; black, dead sections of leaves; galls; yellowed foliage, or rotting stems. The photos above show some examples of cedar-apple rust, powdery mildew and peony blotch.

3. Prevent disease in the garden

To start, make sure plants aren’t stressed by low soil fertility or inconsistent moisture. Use drip irrigation to keep soil evenly moist while foliage stays dry and fungus-free, and give your plants space for air movement. In a vegetable garden, rotate your crops. For example, move tomatoes around each year to prevent them from getting fusarium wilt, which can live in the soil and plant debris from year to year.

Keep an eye out for pests that can spread disease

Keep an eye out for insects, such as aphids, that can spread diseases like rose mosaic, and eliminate them if necessary. Finally, if you consistently have problems with a particular disease, consider getting rid of the plant and replacing it (in another part of the garden) with a variety that is known to be disease resistant. Ask your local garden center staff for help choosing.

4. Control garden disease

Sanitation is one of the best ways to stop plant diseases, because it gets rid of the pathogen: Prune off infected foliage, and disinfect pruners between cuts. The quick wipe with rubbing alcohol in the photo above is a good way to do this.

Collect fallen leaves, and cut back dead stems to the ground in fall and burn or bury them 3 ft. deep to prevent the disease from reinfecting new growth. You may have to take out plants, and even some soil around the roots, for diseases that can live in the soil for several years, such as rose rosette.

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Considerations for using chemicals to control garden disease

Sometimes a problem needs a chemical control. For example, if warm, wet weather causes anthracnose on your cucumbers that puts the entire crop at risk, you might have to resort to chemical methods. Naturally derived options include copper fungicides, horticultural oil and even baking soda.

For powdery mildew on garden phlox, try 1½ Tbsp. of baking soda in a gallon of water sprayed weekly as a preventive measure. If those are not effective, synthetic chemicals, such as mancozeb, maneb and chlorothalonil, can be used to control disease. When using any pesticide, always follow the label directions to avoid heavy residues or runoff in the soil.

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