Multiseason container garden planting made easy!

Would you like to have gorgeous container displays year-round? New Jersey gardener Heather Thomas recommends starting in fall. She has a simple method for creating stunning containers that flow seamlessly from season to season, always filled with flowers and foliage. Let’s follow her steps!

Choosing the right container

Start by choosing a container that can withstand your zone’s coldest temperatures. Composite, plastic, wood and metal are good choices that won’t crack if the soil inside freezes and expands, as it might in USDA zones 5 and colder. Heather uses a composite self-watering container with an inner wall that forms a water reservoir during the summer. In her zone 7 garden, this drained reservoir becomes an extra layer of insulation in the winter for the contents of the pot.

How to create a multiseason container garden

Step 1: Plant spring-blooming bulbs in containers in the fall

Step one of this multiseason container is planting spring-blooming bulbs in fall. Fill the pot with slightly moistened potting mix and space bulbs, such as tulips (Tulipa spp. and hybrids), hyacinths (Hyacinthus orientalis) or daffodils (Narcissus spp. and hybrids), close together (Heather can get 48 tulip bulbs in a 20×20-inch square pot). Cover with potting mix according to the recommended planting depth for the bulbs.

Step 2: Create a winter container arrangement

The illustration above left shows the next step. On top of the planted bulbs, set a piece of 2-inch-thick craft foam, such as green FloraFōM^®, cut to fit snugly into the container. Then on top, create a winter-themed arrangement by inserting evergreen boughs, Southern magnolia branches, pine cones and other accents into the foam. Heather reuses this foam for several years — she tucks branches in the holes that are already there. Method adapted from Deborah Silver of Detroit Garden Works.

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Step 3: Make way for the spring container show

As winter ends, peek under the foam to see if the bulb foliage is emerging. When it does, remove the foam and winter arrangement to make way for the spring show. Heather says sometimes the plants even push the foam layer up to let her know it’s time. Begin watering bulbs as needed. If you like, add seasonal accents, such as a few corkscrew willow (Salix matsudana) branches.

Step 4: Refresh container with summer-blooming flowers

Once the bulbs are done blooming, pull them out to make room for a summer planting. “Plant in Late Spring” in the illustration above, shows you how this goes together:

Heather's nested pot method for summer plantings

• First, bury an empty nursery pot in the potting mix.
• Then drop in a pot planted with a focal point, such as the vining mandevilla (Mandevilla hybrids) in the photo above.
• This pot-within-a-pot keeps vigorous roots contained and easier to dig out in the fall.
• Heather finds it quick to pull out plants she wants to overwinter inside this way too.
• Around the outside of the pot, plant a mixture of summer annuals to fill your containers with color all the way through fall, when you can pull the focal point plant out and swap it for a fall garden mum. One container for four seasons — how easy is that?

Want to see more of Heather's Garden?

Get a PDF download of Heather Thomas' Cape Cottage Garden feature article from Garden Gate magazine using the form below.

Plant porch pots with spruce tips and evergreens for winter interest

After a hard frost has nipped all the annuals in your containers, it's time to give them new life as winter porch pots. All it takes is some spruce tips, pine boughs or any kind of evergreen you can find to tuck into your containers. Watch the video above to see how we planted up this evergreen container at our test garden or follow the easy step-by-step instructions below to create your own!

Start with an all-weather container

First, choose an all-weather container to make your porch pot. Plastic, frost-proof ceramic, wood, fiberglass or metal all hold up well in winter weather where temperatures get below freezing. Fill the pot with potting mix, tamp it down and wet the mix so it is just damp enough to stick together and not loose or fluffy.

Smart container tip

One of the easiest ways to create a spruce tip porch pot is to use containers filled with annuals that are done for the season, as we did in the video above. Once these plants have died, pull them up and toss them in the compost pile. If the roots are really tangled together, you can leave them and simply cut off the foliage at the soil line. This actually makes the potting mix more solid and able to anchor the evergreen branches better than loose new potting mix.

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Collect or purchase evergreen branches

The next step is to collect enough evergreen branches to fill the container. You can buy spruce tips at the garden center or hardware store that look like tiny little trees and are perfect for porch pots. But if you walk around your garden, you might find enough evergreens to use in your own backyard. Prune a few branches from trees and shrubs here and there in out of the way spots where it won't leave a noticeable gap. It doesn't take a lot of branches to fill a container, especially if you use a mix of different kinds. Here are some of my favorite evergreens to use in porch pots:

• Blue spruce (Picea pungens)
  Stiff, straight branches with short needles with a blue cast that can create height and structure
  

• Eastern white pine (Pinus strobus)
  Long, soft-needled flexible branches that are often curved and will drape over edges of the container
  

• Juniper (Juniperus spp. and hybrids)
  Scale-like needles on stiff branches that come in many shades of green or blue-green and make a great filler
  

• Concolor fir (Abies concolor)
  Thick needles with a blue cast on stiff, upright branches great for structure and line
  

• Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)
  Soft, flat, medium green branches with a ferny look make excellent filler or can give the arrangement height
  

Arrange evergreen branches in the container

Arranging the branches in the porch pot is as simple as firmly pushing the ends of the stems a couple inches into the potting mix. It helps to trim foliage off the end of the stem so the branch will poke into the potting mix easier and stay put better.

Get creative with your evergreen arrangement

There are no hard rules to this, but you may find it easiest to start with the tallest, straightest branch, such as spruce tips or concolor fir, in the middle and add a few lower straight branches around it to create the height and structure. Tuck Eastern white pine or other curved branches low on the edges so they drape over the edge and give the arrangement some width. Fill in with chunky pieces of juniper or fluffy arborvitae, and add more spruce tips or pine branches to complete the shape. Be sure to mix up textures and colors of the evergreen for an appealing look, or try grouping each kind together like you might with summer annuals for a thriller-spiller-filler combination.

Finish porch pots with decorations

Once the greenery is in the container, you can add fun accents and plants from your own garden to dress it up for the holidays or to look timeless all winter.

• Birch logs
• Redtwig dogwood branches
• Dried hydrangeas
• Seed pods
• Ornamental grass seedheads

A colorful hayrack planting

If you’ve always dreamed of a beautiful hayrack planter dripping with flowers under your window but weren’t sure how to execute it, Tera Boaeuf of Tera’s Gardens in Colorado can help. She has the secrets to planting and maintaining hayracks and is willing to share them with us!

How to design a hayrack planter

Tera uses the same principles for hayracks that she uses in other container designs: Position trailing plants at the front to billow over the edge, place tall plants in the back row, and bridge the gap with smaller upright filler plants. Of course, your color choices are really all about personal preference, but she tries to match color temperature, meaning she wouldn’t place a red-orange geranium (Pelargonium hybrid) in the mix of cool pink geraniums, petunias (Petunia hybrid) and blue pansies (Viola xwittrockiana) in the planter above, but she would include a fuchsia-red one, for example.

The more plants, the better

To get the full look you see here, you’ll need a lot of plants. Each of the two 55-inch planters above holds about 50 plants. For instant gratification, start with 4-inch pots of some of the showpiece plants, such as the trailing petunias and geraniums. Fill in around them with more economical flats of vinca and sweet alyssum.

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Practical considerations for hayrack planters

Any time you install a windowbox against a flat surface like siding, it’s a good idea to mount it with spacers to prevent moisture from building up between the planter and the siding. A 1 ½-inch spacer block at the top and bottom of the hayrack should be enough to allow air to circulate and prevent rot.

You can find hayracks in many sizes, but as with any container, the bigger it is, the heavier it is. Add soil and plants and it’ll be much tougher to mount. So it’s best to mount the empty hayrack and plant it up right where it hangs.

Sometimes it’s hard to get watering just right

Tera tells people that if leaves look dull, they may need water, but if they’re yellowing, they’re probably getting too much water. This is more common than you might expect. Pick up a moisture meter from your garden center to help gauge your watering habits.

Well-fed flowers bloom better

Whether you fertilize seems to be more important than what you use, so whatever you choose, just follow the package instructions for amount and frequency.

3 Steps to the perfect hayrack planter

The biggest secret to Tera’s hayrack planter success is in the planting method. If you’ve ever wondered how to keep the soil in or how to get plants to trail the way you want them to, here are Tera’s steps for planting the perfect hayrack. Read through the steps here and watch the video above to see Tera in action. Her favorite hayrack planters and liners are from Kinsman Company.

Step 1: Line the hayrack planter

Every hayrack planter needs some sort of lining to hold the soil. The easiest to use is a preformed coco liner that fits your rack perfectly. If you can’t find a preformed one, you can also buy coco fiber in sheets and form your own. If you go this route, leave the liner a few inches taller than the hayrack as you form it. Once you have the liner set, fill it with potting mix, water it and let everything settle in for a day or two before you cut the top down to the correct height.

Create a hayrack liner with sphagnum moss

Tera sometimes lines her hayrack planters with sphagnum moss instead of coco fiber. This technique is a little more complicated: To keep the long-fiber sphagnum moss from falling through the hayrack’s frame, line it with bird netting, tying it on in several places with plant tape. Soak the sphagnum in a bucket of water, then grab a handful of the material, squeeze out the water, stretch the fibers out a bit and line the bottom of the planter and partway up the sides. Fill the lined portion with potting mix, then repeat, moving up the sides with more sphagnum and more potting mix, until the planter is fully lined and filled with mix.

Step 2: Prepare the front of the hayrack liner

The goal when planting hayracks is for the planter itself to nearly disappear. Tera says that when you grow trailing plants in the top of the hayrack, they’ll eventually spill over the front edge, but to create a fuller look right way, she also likes to plant right into the front surface of the liner.

Create planting gaps in the hayrack liner

If you’re using a coco liner, use kitchen shears to cut a slit one shear length long at the top of every gap in the hayrack. Then toward the bottom of that cut, make another shorter angled cut to make a notch for each plant’s stem. In sphagnum, snip a hole in the bird netting and spread a space in the sphagnum to insert the plant’s rootball. Some of the best plants for this front-row treatment include trailing petunias, ivy geraniums, impatiens, (Impatiens hybrids) tuberous begonias (Begonia hybrids), and vining foliage plants, such as vinca (Vinca minor) and creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia).

Hayrack Planter Supplies:
Hayrack Planter and Liner sets from Kinsman Company
Coco Fiber Sheets
Bird Netting
Sphagnum Moss
Plant Tape

Step 3: Rinse roots & plant in hayrack planter

Tera likes to wash the potting mix from the roots of plants she tucks into the front of the hayrack. This does two things: Makes it easier to fit the plants into the small slits or holes, and also allows her to pack more of them into a small space.

Planting tips

• If you’re using 4-inch pots, slip in one plant per slit or hole.
• If you’re using multi-packs, you can squeeze a couple of plants into each hole.
• Once the front has been planted, then you can add the plants to the middle and back of the hayrack. There’s no need to wash the potting mix from those roots (unless it helps you pack more plants in).
• When all the plants are in place, fill in around them with potting mix and water thoroughly to help settle the mix around the roots.

Although planting can take a bit of time, this method is one Tera swears by, and it’ll get you swoonworthy results! 

Add a rustic touch to fall containers with Corten Steel

Many plants hit their peak in fall, so it’s a good strategy to buy when they look their best. And they'll look great planted in a Corten^® Steel planter with a rustic finish, such as the low bowl in this arrangement. Check out this container planting easily created from an end-of-year trip to the garden center, with tips to get the most from your seasonal display. Watch the video above to learn tips for pulling this container together!

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How to get patina on Corten Steel faster

When purchased, this Corten Steel bowl was a sleek silver metal color, and would have rusted naturally with time. Watch the video to see how we instantly transformed the metal into the perfect container for fall. If you want to speed up the process like we did, here’s how:

1. Mix 16 oz. hydrogen peroxide, 2 oz. white vinegar, and ½ tbsp. salt in a spray bottle and spritz the container until it is soaked. Be sure to do this project on grass, plastic or cardboard — the runoff will stain concrete and other surfaces.
2. You’ll start to see the rust form almost instantly! Let it dry between applications.
3. Apply as many coats as you want. This finish took six, but you could do more for a darker color.

Container tip

Rust from metal containers can stain surfaces like concrete, so this bowl sits in the garden. Two bricks beneath it keep it level and allow it to drain.

Project Supplies:
Spray Bottle
Hydrogen Peroxide
White Vinegar

Fall container planting

All the elements of fall are right here: Warm colors, rich textures and even a pumpkin blend together in one shallow bowl for the perfect autumn accent. Don’t worry about packing so many plants into such a small container — since it is a seasonal display, they aren’t expected to grow more roots. Less intense late-season sun leaves you free to combine plants you wouldn’t normally in summer (like Northern maidenhair fern and coneflower) without fear of scorching less sun-loving foliage. And cooler fall temperatures mean they won’t be as thirsty, either.

Corten Steel Containers You Might Like:
Steel Bowl Planter
Square Steel Planter
Corten Steel Long Planter Box

Plant care tips

• Once temperatures get close to freezing, deconstruct the bowl planting.
• The Mexican hen and chicks, maidenhair fern and rubber plant can be brought in as houseplants for the winter
• Perennial garden mum, gloriosa daisy, ornamental grass and coneflower can be planted in the garden.
• If a hard freeze is expected within a couple weeks after you plant the perennials in the garden, top with a 2- to 3-inch layer of mulch to insulate newly planted roots before they can get established.

Container plant list

A) CoreopsisCoreopsis Uptick^™ Yellow and Red (2)
B) CelosiaCelosia argentea var. cristata ‘Fresh Look Orange’ (1)
C) Garden mumChrysanthemum hybrid(2)
D) Gloriosa daisyRudbeckia hirta ‘Cherry Brandy’ (2)
E) SedgeCarex oshimensis ‘Evergold’ (2)
F) CelosiaCelosia argentea var. cristata ‘Fresh Look Yellow’ (1)
G) Miniature fountain grassPennisetum alopecuroides ‘Burgundy Bunny’ (1)
H) ConeflowerEchinacea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’ (1)
I) Northern maidenhair fernAdiantum pedatum (1)
J) Mexican hen and chicksEcheveria shaviana (1)
K) Rubber plantFicus elastica ‘Burgundy’ (1)
L) BidensBidens Campfire^® Flame (1)

Container shown is 22 inches in diameter

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Garden containers in all types of materials

Get your container gardens off to the right start by selecting the container that is going to work best for your needs and look slick in your space, as well! Before you make your decision, factor in your climate, the size of your space and the style of your home. With those elements in mind, peruse the list below to learn about the variety of types of garden containers.

Many garden containers are an investment. You want them to last from year to year. So take your time choosing the containers that will work best for you. Have fun with it!

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Terra-cotta containers

This kiln-fired clay can range from rich orange-brown to a pale, creamy color. Find it in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. The surface may be smooth, textured or embellished with intricate designs.

Pros

Porous so air can get in and water can evaporate. This classic container material is durable and can be used in formal- or casual-style gardens.

Cons

Dry terra-cotta wicks moisture out of the soil, away from roots so they dry out quickly. It cracks and flakes if not protected in freezing temperatures.

Terra-cotta Garden Containers You Might Like:
Pack of 5-inch terra-cotta pots
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Glazed containers

Made of clay that’s been coated with a glaze and fired in a kiln, these containers are available in almost any size, shape or color — even combinations of colors. You’ll find everything from high gloss to matte finishes, too.

Pros

Glazed containers are more durable and hold moisture in the soil better than plain terra-cotta.

Cons

Depending on the thickness of the container walls, they can be heavy. Glazed containers can also chip and crack in freezing temperatures

Glazed Garden Containers You Might Like:
Amazon Brand - Stone & Beam Mid-Century Two-Toned Planter, 10.53"H, Teal
Set of two glazed ceramic planters
Ceramic Node Planter

Concrete containers

This material can be cast into a variety of shapes and be stained,painted or left natural. You’ll also find hypertufa, a lightweight mixture, that is similar to traditional concrete.

Pros

Tough and durable, concrete containers will last for many years with minimal care. Their heavy weight means they will not tip over easily.

Cons

Heavy to move, especially a large container filled with soil. Like many other materials, it can flake or crack in freezing winter conditions.

Concrete Garden Containers You Might Like:
Small modern concrete planter
Small concrete planter with geometric design

Fiberstone, a concrete lookalike

A lightweight and affordable alternative to concrete is fiberstone, which is made of fiberglass and crushed stone. It usually has a rough texture that closely resembles and feels like concrete but is lightweight, durable and can withstand freezing temps.

Fiberglass Garden Containers You Might Like:
20-inch square fiberglass container
Large, gray rectangular fiberglass planter
Small blackwashed fiberstone pot

Wood

Windowboxes and planters are often made of wood. Whiskey barrels are another popular container made from this material. Any of these containers can be unfinished, sealed with a clear finish, stained or painted.

Pros

Wood is rarely damaged by freezing temperatures so it can be left outdoors all year. It also insulates the roots from hot summer temperatures.

Cons

Almost all types of wood will rot over time. If the surface has a finish, it will need to be recoated periodically to keep it looking fresh.

Wooden Garden Containers You Might Like:
Set of two whiskey barrel planters
Long cedar planter box
Square wooden planter
16-inch wooden window planter box

Cast-iron

Iron can be cast in a mold to create almost any style from classic antique forms to sleek modern styles. It can be painted or left raw to rust naturally

Pros

Durable, will last nearly forever. And the weight can be an advantage if your garden is prone to strong winds tipping over your containers.

Cons

Weight can be a problem if you like to move your pots around frequently. Or if you’re gardening on a deck or balcony you may want a lighter material.

Cast Iron Garden Containers You Might Like:
Small cast iron urn

Sheet metal

Tin, copper, aluminum, steel or other metal can be rolled into thin sheets and formed into containers. The surface may be galvanized, painted or left natural to create different looks. Weathered steel, such as Corten steel, is a popular choice.

Pros

Usually lightweight and easy to move around, it can’t chip or crack easily. Won’t be damaged by extreme heat or cold.

Cons

Thin metal heats up fast in hot sun and can quickly dry the soil and harm the roots. Thin materials dent easily and some will rust.

Sheet Metal Garden Containers You Might Like:
Large rectangular corten steel planter
Set of three powder-coated steel containers

Lined hanging basket

Hanging baskets need to be lightweight. You’ll often find them made of metal rings lined with a fibrous material, such as coco fiber or sphagnum moss. Some may have a plastic liner inside to help retain moisture.

Pros

The fiber used is usually a neutral color and won’t steal the show away from the plants.

Cons

Without a plastic liner or insert, the soil dries out very quickly. The fiber can break down and will need to be replaced if it looks ratty.

Lined Hanging Baskets You Might Like:
Large lined hanging basket
Coco liners for hanging baskets

Plastic, resin & other lookalike materials

At first glance they may look like ceramic, metal, concrete or most any other material, but are actually made from fiberglass, resin or plastic. You can find one to match any garden style.

Pros

They are lightweight, durable and weatherresistant. Most can be left outside in freezing temperatures and fit almost any style.

Cons

While they look like other materials, the major drawback is that they just aren’t the real thing. And the light weight can be problem in windy spots

Lookalike Garden Containers You Might Like:
Tall black planter
5 gallon box planter
Large, blue resin container

Maybe you’ve admired jaw-dropping hanging baskets on Pinterest or Instagram or hanging from the light posts along Main Street. But that’s not always the reality in my garden — how about yours? If you’ve been wishing for great baskets instead of growing them, take a look at the hacks from three experts who have been designing and growing hanging baskets for years. Put their tips and techniques to work and you’ll have the plantings you’ve only dreamed of year after year.

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How to put your hanging basket together

Every year the city of Waynesboro, Virginia, has gorgeous hanging baskets like this one in the photo that bring color and beauty to the town. Here’s how Stephen Black, City Horticulturist and the man in charge of them, does it.

Get a big basket and a liner

Bigger is better when it comes to hanging baskets. The heavy gauge steel wire one in the photo above is 18 inches in diameter and 11 inches deep so there’s plenty of room for potting medium and root growth. Stephen gets his from a wholesale supplier but you can find large sturdy baskets from Kinsman Company. Stephen also uses SupaMoss, (find it at your local garden center) to line the baskets – it’s a sheet of recycled cotton lined with perforated plastic. It holds up well and helps retain moisture, but Stephen likes it because it’s easy to plant through the sides.

Plant the sides of your basket

Once the liner is in, it’s time for the plants. Hanging baskets are often seen from below so instead of waiting for the plants to spill over the side, Stephen plants the side of the liner, too. That provides a pretty view quicker than if just the top of the basket is filled. Plants with trailing and mounding habits work best. And since the baskets stay up from May to mid-October, foliage plays an important role, too.

Stephen’s tips for planting a hanging basket

Planting your hanging basket is easy. Here’s what to do:

1. Start with a layer of potting mix in the bottom of the hanging basket that’s deep enough to reach the first row of plants you’re adding to the side.
2. Use a screwdriver to poke holes in the liner then slip a plant’s rootball in from the outside.
3. Cover the root balls with potting mix and add another layer of plants.
4. Repeat until the side of the basket is full, then add plants to the top.

If the basket has horizontal and vertical wires, as the one in the illustration below does, you have a built-in planting grid. Otherwise, stagger the plants and allow a few inches between them so there’s room for growth. This basket has three layers and Stephen finds it fits about 30 small plugs. But you could use multipack annuals or fewer large plants. Don’t position vigorous plants, such as sweet potato vine, next to each other or the basket will look lopsided.

Hanging basket watering hack

Stephen keeps the baskets consistently moist with a small reservoir in the center. The illustration above shows you how it goes together. It’s made from a 4-inch-long piece of 4-inch-diameter plastic perforated drainpipe. He covers the bottom of the drainpipe with a piece of the basket liner. Drip irrigation tubing runs down the chain and into the reservoir but there’s no emitter — Stephen found that they water too slowly to keep these big baskets hydrated. The tubing fills the reservoir with water daily and it gradually soaks in, keeping the potting mix evenly moist and the plants growing and blooming happily.

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Best tools & materials for hanging baskets

Wouldn’t you love to see the hanging baskets in the photo above? You can if you visit Victoria, British Columbia. Supervisor, Mike Creighton, along with the Parks and Rec staff create and hang more than 1,300 of these beauties every year. These baskets are packed with plants and hang on busy streets with lots of reflected heat. Here are his essential tools that keep them looking great and a few plants that are great in hanging baskets:

• Mike has tried numerous hanging basket liners over the years, he’s found that New Zealand sphagnum moss looks the best and holds moisture.
• Watering daily is the only way to keep plants looking so good. But that can wash out the nutrients, so each 16-inch-diameter basket has a custom-made 2-inch-wide and 48-inch-long galvanized steel collar tucked in around the rim so potting mix doesn’t wash out.
• Below the basket sits a 13-inch diameter and 3-inch-deep galvanized tray that’s attached snugly to the basket with “S” hooks. It catches and holds the water and fertilizer mixture so it can be absorbed throughout the day when it’s needed most.

Hanging baskets need extra attention

Let’s face a fact about hanging baskets: They’re a hostile place for plants to grow so they need some extra attention. Rebecca Finneran, Michigan State University Extension Senior Horticulture Educator has some tips for keeping them in great shape:

Hanging baskets need lots of watering!

Hanging baskets need watering — probably daily in the hottest part of summer. Just assume that your basket will get hyper dry at some point. When peat-based potting mixes dry out, the surface forms a hard crust and water just runs around the sides and out the bottom, leaving the center bone dry. When this happens take the basket down and place it in a trug or wheelbarrow full of water to rehydrate the potting mix. After an hour, take it out and rehang the basket.

Don’t forget to feed

Make sure to use a potting mix with slow-release fertilizer already mixed in or add your own at planting time. In addition, use a liquid plant food according to label directions at half the recommended rate once a month to keep plants growing and blooming. If you don’t notice new growth, increase the rate to full strength once a month.

Groom your hanging basket

Rebecca says there’s always a point in the life of a hanging basket where you walk by and think, “Wow, that looks really great!” and a week later you think, “Wow, that looks really ugly!” Most hanging basket plants eventually get leggy and need a haircut — you might find it difficult to remove all that growth, but the plant will look better if you do. Cut most plants back by one-third. Vigorous plants, such as sweet potato vine, can be pruned by half and they’ll bounce back within a few weeks.

Hanging basket planting hack

That beautifully blooming basket you buy at the garden center every year was probably planted in late winter and will soon be in need of a boost to stay flowery. Rebecca recommends popping your basket out of its small plastic pot as soon as you get home and replanting it in a different basket that’s 2 to 4 inches larger, such as the one in the illustration above. This provides more room for roots to grow and some protection from drying out.

Choose a basket to fit your style

Are you ready to start planting hanging baskets? Whether you’re looking to save time and work in the garden, want a timeless, elegant look or a special basket that’s as showy as the plants, this group of hanging baskets has you covered.

Container gardens are where the fun is at

If you don’t already garden in containers, I think you should. Let me quickly persuade you with these reasons:

• A sturdy, good-sized container, some potting mix and some interesting plants is usually a smaller investment than a full in-ground garden.
• You only need to worry about 1 or 2 square feet of space versus an entire garden.
• You can change the plants and the entire theme of the planter each growing season.

Container gardening can jumpstart your green thumb. And then, like most gardeners I know, you’ll probably catch the container gardening bug and every year will bring a new challenge to outdo what you did last year.

That’s how it goes for me, anyhow. I spent a lot of time designing, planting and maintaining container gardens for customers in my landscaping days. And then, of course, for the years I spent living in apartments it was the only way to garden. Now, it’s a regular part of my garden regime. (You could even call me an award-winning container gardener...)

Do you have a process for designing and planting your containers? I planted up my entryway containers the other day. Here’s a look at my process. Join me!

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What’s my color scheme?

I started my design process with the color scheme. My home is red brick with a touch of a purple undertone here and there. My color scheme was pretty much determined months ago — just something a gardener dreams about in the bleak winter months. I’m glad, too, because I ended up shopping for these plants mad-dash style, as one does when shopping in the midst of a pandemic.

• Blush pinks and cream soften the look of my home and add a touch of class.
• Deep purples and pinks echo the purple undertones in the brick.
• Bright chartreuse and blue contrast the red brick and add brightness.

I grabbed anything in this color scheme that caught my eye.

Any particular theme or texture?

I didn’t bother determining which plants would go together or which containers they would get planted in while I was shopping. Instead, I simply sprung for a good mix of thrillers, fillers and spillers.

I like to dip by toes in the cottage-garden style, so flowering tobacco (Nicotiana alata) and daisy-shaped cape daisy (Osteospurnum hybrid) help fill that bill. But even more important than following a certain theme is making sure there is a heavy dose of texture. I saw this bronze sedge grass (Carex) and pink gaura (Gaura lindheimeri) and knew I wanted to play it up. Look at how those star-shaped flowers dance around the slender, arching leaves of the sedge! I grabbed some more plants with small leaves and plants with big bold flowers for contrast.

Framing my small entryway

I planted a large container and a medium container that nestle into the little bit of extra space on my stairway, leaving enough room for us to be able to open the door wide and enter. If I could place containers on either side of the door for balance, I would. But I came up with this solution instead...

A shepherd’s hook and a hanging basket

To the right of my front door is a garden bed with one small shrub and one large shrub. I stuck a shepherd’s hook in front of the small shrub and hung a hanging basket with coordinating plants. It balances out the two sizes of shrubs, and it frames my front door with another container. Double-duty!

What are your entryway containers looking like this year? We love to be inspired by seeing other gardeners create interesting container combinations. Post a photo to social media with the hashtag #MyContainerGardenVUG to share with us!

Check out my previous post here.

Create a knockout container

Designing containers doesn’t have to be complicated. If you’re looking for an easy way to put together amazing looks every time, simply remember three rhyming words: thriller, filler and spiller. Let’s define each:

• Thriller

  Upright, tall-growing plants with striking shapes are thrillers. Just like the vibrant pineapple lily in this group, they add interest and excitement.

• Filler

  Fillers have more rounded, mounding habits that work to fill in the height gap between thrillers and spillers.

• Spiller

  Spillers are the low-growing plants that drape over the sides of your container. They’re great because they hide the lip of the pot, softening the hard edge with flowers, foliage and color.

Browse our best container recipes and tips

How to design a container garden with thrillers, fillers and spillers

Now which goes where? After you pick out plants that thrill, fill and spill, the rest of the design falls into place quite easily. Here’s a rundown of how to plant your container:

Step 1. Plant the thriller

The thriller is usually the biggest plant, so keep things easy and plant it before the others. Center the thriller right in the middle of the pot, especially if it will be placed on a patio or somewhere where it will be viewed from all sides. But, if you plan to position it up against a wall, place the thriller in the back so that all the rest of the plants can be seen from the front.

Tips for choosing a thriller for containers:

• A flowering plant or a foliage-only plant both make great options. If you choose a flowering plant, choose something that will bloom all season long. If it doesn’t have a long bloom time, be sure that the foliage will be interesting enough without the blooms and that the plant will maintain its tall stature in the center even after the flowers fade.
• For a standard round container, you usually only need one thriller. For long rectangular planters, you will likely need more than one.
• Don’t feel limited to just annuals. Perennials, shrubs and even tropicals and house plants can make wonderful thrillers that can be used elsewhere in the garden later, too.
• Choose a height that balances the size of the container. A good place to start is with a plant that is the same height as the container (so that when planted the total height of the container garden doubles). But this isn’t a set rule. If you choose something taller than this, make sure the container can support the weight and won’t tip over easily, especially if placed in a windy spot.
• Don’t forget to leave room for the other plants. Something that is as wide as your container is probably too big and will end up outcompeting the other plants.

Step 2. Plant the fillers

Fillers are the plants that bridge the gap between the thriller and the spiller. They are just as important as the other plants, but probably won’t be the center of the attention. Before planting, keep them in their pots and arrange them around the thriller to get an idea of how to distribute them. You can also tuck the spillers in at this point, too, in order to be sure they all fit and look good together.

Tips for choosing fillers:

• If you are using a foliage-only thriller and foliage-only spillers, make sure your fillers have long-lasting flowers.
• Because a filler’s main role is to bridge the differences in height, be mindful of how big it will grow. Coleus (Plectranthus spp. and hybrids) are great fillers, but they can often overtake the container if they aren’t regularly pinched back. If your filler might grow too big, make sure it will still look good even after being pinched or cut back.
• Pack them in! It’s surprising how many you can actually fit in order to give a container a full, flowery appearance.

Learn how to choose the right number of container plants

Step 3. Finish with the spillers

Spillers are what give a container that unbeatably lush and lovely appearance. They soften the look of the container itself by hiding the edge. You may need more than one plant here, depending on how the container will be viewed.

• Go for balance. If the plant will spill all the way to the ground, you might need more than one.
• If a spiller starts to grow out of bounds, don’t be afraid to cut it back. Sometimes spillers get leggy and trimming them will give them a fuller appearance again.
• Plants that clean themselves will cut back on work and keep your container looking good at all times.

Meet 8 of the best container plants

Container recipe (number to plant)

A) Pineapple lily (Eucomis ‘Aloha Lily Leia’) (1)
B) Petunia (Petunia Sun Spun^® Silver) (5)
C) Calibrachoa (Calibrachoa Superbells^® Grape Punch) (1)
D) Bugleweed (Ajuga ‘Pink Lightning’) (1)

Container shown is 16 in. in diameter

Save money with upcycled planters

Forget spending lots of money on a shiny new planter: Make do with what you have for a container garden that is truly unique. These easy upcycled planter ideas use items you may already have around the house. If not, you can easily find them or something similar at a thrift shop or junkyard. Think about the plants you can buy now that you are saving money on the pots! Check out several great ideas below you can use in your own garden.

Upcycle an old lunchbox into a planter

Old lunchboxes like the one above tend to be pretty shallow so this upcycled container works best for short-term plantings. But that’s OK when you’re putting together a showy seasonal planter. You won’t need it to perform for several months. Be sure to punch a few drainage holes in the bottom using an awl. We put two holes at each end. Put the lunchbox on a wooden board while you put the holes in so the tool doesn’t dent the bottom out of shape. Plant up with some pretty annuals and enjoy!

Dress up an old chair

Do you have an old chair in the basement or garage you haven't been able to get rid of? Dress it up by upcycling it into a unique planter! The chair you see above had an older wicker seat that had seen better days so it was removed to make a perfect place for a container. You could choose a decorative container for this upcycled project. But if you have a plain nursery pot or less-than-attractive container, just slip it into the framework of an old chair. Select plants with a trailing form like this bougainvillea (Bougainvillea hybrids) to help hide a plain looking pot.

You Might Also Like:
Upcycled Design Ideas for Your Garden
Best Plants for Containers
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Design a Budget-Friendly Garden with Upcycled Materials

Tabletop charm

Having a party and want to dress up your patio? Put together a tray of these charming little single-plant containers made of glass light shades. To keep the tray clean, remove the containers to water and let them drain before you return them. These less-than-4-in. containers can hold plants that bloom longer than a fresh cut flower arrangement, but they are still small and probably won’t thrive there all summer. When it’s no longer blooming, move it into your garden and enjoy it there next year.

Tiered tires

You may never have seen tire planters like these before! Forget the idea that less is more and throw restraint to the wind — spray paint several tires in sunny colors and stack them up for tiered raised beds that can’t help but be noticed.

Plant up a colander

Find a colander made of a solid piece of aluminum with holes punched in it, like the one here. Loop some wire or chain through holes near the rim and hang the colander with the wire hanger from an old hanging basket. Filled with a coarse potting mix, it makes a well-drained container for any combo, including small succulents and herbs.

You Might Also Like:
Best Plants for Hanging Baskets
Upcycled Hanging Planter Project
DIY Marbleized Terra-Cotta Pots

Turn vintage washbins into a shabby chic planter

The brightly colored flowers filling this vintage double washtub have grown so well they billow over the edge like bubbles. You could plant directly in the tub or slip a couple of large nursery pots inside. Growing plants will eventually hide them.

We asked two garden pros to design a great-looking container in 30 minutes or less. This episode’s theme? Instant Color! Learn their tips as they put together their containers, see if you agree with our judges’ decision, and see the planting plans for each of these great-looking containers here. Thanks to the team at Canoyer Garden Center in Grimes, Iowa, for hosting this fun event!

Meet the contestants

Rita Tressler (left) is a custom container designer for Canoyer Garden Center. She's been designing gardens for 30 years and definitely has the home field advantage. Chloe Deike (right) is an assistant editor for Garden Gate magazine. She grew up working (and playing) in her family's garden center.

The challenge:

They'll have 30 minutes to choose a container, shop for plants and plant up a great-looking container that will look showy right away but also keep the color going through summer and into fall.

Chloe’s spring splash container

• Dark gray ceramic pot
  
• Croton thriller
  
• Bright orange zinnia fillers
  
• Calibrachoa, verbena and creeping Jenny spillers
  
• Viewed from one side
  
• Full sun
  

Container plant list (number to plant)

A) Croton (Codiaeum variegatum pictum ’Petra’) (1)
B) Zinnia (Zinnia Sweet Tooth Orange Slice) (3)
C) Calibrachoa (Calibrachoa Superbells^® Cherry Red) (2)
D) Verbena (Verbena Superbena^® Royale Peachy Keen) (3)
E) Creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia Goldilocks) (1-gallon pot, split)
(Container has a 14-in. opening)

Chloe’s container tips

• Don't forget to shop the perennial aisles at the garden center, especially for foliage plants.
• Sometimes dividing a large plant is more economical than buying several small ones.

See more beautiful container ideas

Rita's red, white and blue container

• Cobalt-blue glazed ceramic pot
  
• Angelwing begonia fillers
  
• Purple fountain grass thriller
  
• Sweet alyssum and Algerian ivy spillers
  
• Viewed from all sides
  
• Full sun
  

Container plant list (number to plant)

A) Fountain grass (Pennisetum purpureum Graceful Grasses^® Vertigo^®) (1)
B) Angelwing begonia (Begonia Dragon Wing^® Red) (8)
C) Sweet alyssum (Lobularia Snow Princess^®) (2)
D) Algerian ivy (Hedera ’Neon’) (3)
(Container has a 14-in. opening)

Rita's container tips

• Buying more than one of a particular plant? Sort through the table until you find plants that are of similar size and shape.
• The focal point plant (thriller) can be planted in the center of the pot if it'll be viewed from all angles or at the back of the pot if you plan to set the container against a wall and will only see it from one side.

Check out our Flowers & Plant guide