How to rot a stump quickly

Pack a stump-rotting product into the wood to help it decompose faster. You have a few options: You can buy a product specifically for this purpose, which usually contains potassium nitrate, at the garden center. Or you can use any high-nitrogen fertilizer. If pets seem to be attracted to the stump, yeast nutrient used in wine making is a safe alternative.

• First, cut the stump off as close to soil level as possible. If it’s damp, let it dry.
• Next, drill several holes at least ½-inch in diameter and several inches deep. Pack the holes full of rotting product, then soak the ground around the stump and sprinkle the surface to moisten the material in the holes.
• Next lay a sheet of plastic over the area and weigh down the corners.
• Finally, spread a layer of organic mulch to shade it and help keep it moist under the plastic.
• Check the stump occasionally and moisten it if it’s dry to encourage decomposition.
• In a couple of months, the stump should soften to the point that it’ll crumble into chunks you can easily remove.

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Sumbit a Garden Tip or Question

Whether you lost a tree to a storm, age, disease, or construction, when all the debris is cleared away, you are left with a stump. While there are many creative ways to use a stump in your garden, it is often better to remove it. Just as there are many reasons to cut a tree down, there are just as many reasons to get rid of the leftover stump.

Reasons to remove a tree stump

To avoid unwanted pests

Insects such as ants, termites and wasps find deteriorating tree stumps the perfect spot to make a nest. Snakes and rodents may also live in old tree debris.

To prevent disease or fungal infestation

If your tree died from a disease or fungus, you need to remove and destroy any of the pathogens that could infect other plants in your garden.

To discourage suckers

If too much of the stump remains, suckers and sprouts may emerge from the trunk base or larger roots still in the ground.

To replant in the area

Getting rid of the stump and roots makes it easier to plant a replacement. This may not be advisable, depending on what killed the tree.

To remove tripping hazard

Stumps and old roots can be a tripping hazard, as well as difficult to mow around. And when the stump begins to rot, it can create a depression in the soil that can be dangerous.

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3 Ways to remove a tree stump

If left on its own, a tree stump can take 3 to 7 years to rot away. Here are ways to remove a tree stump quickly.

1. Jumpstart the deterioration of the tree stump

• Use a drill with a bit at least 1/2 inch in diameter to make several holes in the tree stump a few inches apart and as deep as you can make them.
  
• Pack the holes with a rotting agent. This can be a commercial product for this purpose available at a hardware store or a high-nitrogen fertilizer.
  
• Wet the surface of the stump to moisten the material in the holes and soak the ground around the stump, then top with a layer of damp mulch or compost.
  
• Cover with black plastic to keep the stump moist, then another layer of mulch to hold the plastic down.
  
• Check periodically under the plastic to make sure the mulch and stump are moist. Water if it is dry.
  
• In a few months, the stump should be rotted and crumbly and you can break up and remove chunks of the wood.
  

2. Grind the tree stump out

A professional stump grinder uses a machine that chips away the stump, leaving a pile of sawdust or shavings that can be used as mulch or hauled away. Once the stump is ground away, any remaining roots die and rot.

3. Manually remove the stump

Hand dig as much of the stump out as possible after cutting the trunk and larger roots into manageable pieces. Construction machinery can be used for manual removal if you have had the correct training to avoid personal injury. Never attempt to pull a tree trunk out with a truck because you could do serious damage to the vehicle.

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Get cozy in the backyard with a DIY firepit

Our DIY firepit uses supplies easy to find at your local home improvement center and can go together in just a few hours. Watch the video above and find helpful project tips in the steps below.

Check before you dig!

Check building codes and ordinances to make sure firepits are allowed and if any restrictions apply. And to avoid accidents, call 811 or your utility provider to mark the location of underground lines. Choose a relatively flat spot that is at least 25 feet away from flammable structures and at least 10 to 20 feet from trees or shrubs. Before choosing the final spot, note the movement of wind at different times of day — you’ll want to avoid smoke wafting through windows or doors.

Project tip

We decided to site this DIY firepit in an underused spot on the northwest side of the house. The typical airflow in this area is away from the from the neighbors to the west and far enough away from those to the north and east. And, there is a spigot and garden house conveniently nearby!

What you'll need to build this DIY firepit

Materials

• 3½ × 10½ × 7-inch concrete garden wall blocks (36)
• 7 × 3½ × 1¾-inch concrete pavers (26)
• 7 × 7 × 1¾-inch square concrete pavers (6)
  (we used RumbleStone^®)
• 0.5-cu.-ft. bag patio/paver base (3)
• 0.5-cu.-ft. bag volcanic rock (2)
• Tube landscape adhesive (1)

Tools

• Measuring tape
• Stake
• String
• Marking paint
• Garden spade
• Garden rake
• Hand tamper
• Level
• Rubber mallet

How to build a DIY firepit

Check out the illustration above that shows the overall firepit construction and follow the steps below to build your own DIY firepit.

Define the size of the firepit

The recommended size is between 36 and 45 inches in diameter — ours is 45 inches. To define the dimensions, drive a stake in the center of the area where the firepit will go (we made a 48-inch circle to make sure that the blocks fit within the excavated area). Measure a string half the planned diameter. Tie the string to the stake and use marking paint, walking around the stake in a circle, string extended, to paint the perimeter.

Project tip

Do a test run by laying out a ring of blocks and pavers on your patio or driveway to determine the exact diameter you would like for the firepit.

Prepare the area

Excavate 3 inches of sod and soil. If the yard is sloped, you may need to dig down deeper on one end to ensure that your installation will be level.

Project tip

Some DIY firepit tutorials will say to dig deeper than 3 inches, like you would for a path or patio. But because this is a relatively small area and nonweight-bearing structure, 3 inches deep is just fine. Save your back!

Compact and level the area

Compact the soil with a hand tamper. Check the area with a level and adjust where necessary by adding or removing soil as needed and tamp again.

Project tip

Making sure the excavated area is level (and checking in multiple positions within the circle) will help ensure your final project is level at the top course of blocks.

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Add paver base

Next, pour a 2-inch-thick layer of paver base into the excavated area and level with a garden rake. Wet the paver base and tamp it down to compact.

Project tip

This is a great time to check how level your area is again.

Start laying out the paver blocks

Lay the first course of blocks and smallest pavers around the edge of the pit snugly, alternating as you go. If slight adjustments are necessary for making blocks and pavers level, tap them with a rubber mallet.

Add airflow to the firepit

Once complete, partially slide in every third paver. These will eventually be removed in this first course and will allow more airflow into the pit and reduce smoke.

Continue stacking pavers

Set the second layer in place, staggering the joints with the first layer.(You may have to do some slight shifting of the second layer to properly stagger the blocks and pavers). After it is all properly set in place, attach the two courses using landscape adhesive.

Project tip

After the second layer has been secured, remove the four inset pavers from the base layer.

Set the final course

Place and secure the third and final course using the same technique used for row two except alternate the small and square pavers. The square pavers are elevated to accommodate a 36-inch grill grate on top. If you prefer a flush top, use smaller pavers instead. Lock in place with landscape adhesive.

Project tip

The grill grate adds functionality to the firepit. Plus, it helps keep the pets out of it when not in use.

Add lava rock

Add about 2 inches of lava rock within the cavity. Let the adhesive dry for approximately two days before enjoying your first fire.

Project tip

The sod should eventually fill in around the base of the firepit, but we dressed the edge with decorative slate chips left over from another project.

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Enjoy your DIY firepit

Once your firepit has set for a couple days, it’s ready to enjoy. We’ve spent many evenings with our adult children and friends enjoying a calm fire, beverages, these easy mini grilled pizzas and of course, s'mores!

Project tip

Try using frozen naan bread, good jarred tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella to make prepping for a gathering easy and delicious.

There have been lots of challenges to deal with this year and lots of people have been staying home more than usual. But gardeners are a hardy group and that time spent at home hasn't been wasted. We've seen dozens of projects completed and proudly shared via e-mail or our Facebook group (Garden Gate Magazine Garden Club Community). Beds have been dug, borders added on to, pergolas, trellises and sheds built, patios spruced up, containers planted — the list could go on and on. Some folks have even plunged into gardening for the very first time bringing lots of questions and new ideas to inspire those who've been around for awhile. So we thought we'd collect a few of those projects in one place so you can enjoy some of the positive things that have been going on this year.

Share your quarantine garden projects with us!

Do you have a garden project you completed during quarantine? We'd love to see it! Submit your projects with our online form and put "Quarantine Projects" as the subject line. You may find your project featured in this article, too!

Now let's take a look at some great looking quarantine projects.

Build a greenhouse with old windows

Jessica Maloy, PA

Jessica and her husband built this 8x10 foot greenhouse using old windows. They built and erected a frame made of 2x4s first then attached the windows to that using screws. The sides are made up of six-pane windows and the front and back have a variety of shapes and sizes. Jessica sealed all of the windows with latex caulk mostly for appearance since there were lots of gaps between these old windows. Two windows on each side and the trianglar ones at the top of the front and back can be opened to allow air to circulate. The floor is made up of easy-care gravel.

Upcycle a dresser into a planter

Inside the greenhouse is an old dresser that Jessica turned into a planter and holds a few favorite annuals. The drawers are 32 inches wide and range from 5 to 8 inches tall. Jessica drilled holes in the bottom of each drawer to help water drain and lined each with a plastic garbage bag to provide some protection for the wood and help it last longer.

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Dress up an old piano bench

__Debbi Forbes, MI __

After scouring through some old Garden Gate magazines, Debbi Forbes started cutting out flower photos that she liked to create a garden story board. Around the same time her husband, Ken, came home from curb "shopping" with an old piano bench that was sturdy but the finish was in terrible shape. Instead of sanding and painting Debbi decided to use those cut out photos for decoupouge which would be easier and look just as nice. So she got our her old jar of Mod Podge^® and got to work. It took some trial and error to get the look she liked and in the end there wasn't a single flower photo left in the magazines. Here are a few things Debbi learned the from putting it together:

• Start on the back of the piece so any mistakes you make while you're getting the hang of the process isn't front and center.
• Cut around the edge of the flowers instead of a square or rectangle — it's more interesting that way.
• Lay the photos down first to coordinate shapes, colors and sizes.
• Work in a small area and brush the Mod Podge on the wood in a slightly bigger area than the photos you're applying at that time.
• Place the photo on the sticky surface and gently rub out from center to get the photo to stick.
• Repeat until the surface is covered.

Build a great shed

Ruth Bookmiller, MD

Have you ever dreamed of adding a garden shed to your yard? Ruth sure did. With retirement on the horizon and some extra time around home this year she decided to get to work building it. This 14x32 shed is made of pine with running water, electricity and a custom potting bench at just the right height for Ruth so it's ergonomically friendly. This new shed has all the things you'd need to get plants in pots, start seeds, store tools and work on projects in all kinds of weather - Ruth can't wait until she can spend all her time out there among the blooms, birds, bees and butterflies.

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Easy-peasy garden light

Alice Meade

Alice's latest project lights up her garden every evening. It's a galvanized watering can that hangs from a shepherd's hook. Battery operated string lights are strung through the rose and "flow" out of the spout and into a washtub planted with flowers below. The battery pack for the lights sits inside the body of the watering can.

Build a pergola for your swing

Kendra Sulesky, OH

Kendra Sulesky says her morning coffee tastes better sitting in the swing under the pergola. She, her husband, Jay and their college-age son, Ryan started the project in mid-March right after everything shut down and have worked weekends for 6 months — until mid-September to complete it. The pergola is 10x10 feet so there's plenty of room to swing and add an extra seat or two, if needed. The truss beams came from an old beer factory that was being torn down and the rest is made of pressure-treated pine. It was a lot of work, but as Kendra said "By golly, we finished it and we're still married!"

DIY Garden edging

Find out how Senior Photographer, Jack Coyier, made this easy garden edging for his raised bed.

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Name here, ST

Short description here

What is a garden holding bed for?

A garden holding bed, essentially a test plot, is invaluable for a variety of garden projects and allows you to find a interim home for for plants. Here are three of my favorites reasons to have a garden holding bed:

Propagation projects

It’s a handy spot for seeds that need winter chilling or that take months to germinate. Sink the seed pots up to their rims into the holding bed, and you won’t have to water them as often or worry about them getting knocked over. If you take cuttings of perennials or woody plants, planting them in a holding bed for a few months after they start rooting gives them a chance to develop a sturdy new root system. The same goes for perennial divisions that are simply too small to go back into the garden right away.

Garden holding beds make great temporary housing for plants

Have you ever come home from the garden center with impulse buys and wandered around your yard with them, trying to figure out where they can fit but having no luck? Instead of accumulating a collection of languishing potted plants, pop them into a holding bed and they can continue to grow until you find the perfect spot for them. How about those mail-order plant purchases that were much smaller than you expected, or that had a rough trip getting to you? Pamper them in your holding bed for a few weeks or months, where they can recover and bulk up a bit, and they’ll have a much better chance of thriving when you move them to a bed or border. That’s just what I’m doing with all of those perennials in my holding bed above.

Test plots

Holding beds are immensely useful as test plots, too. If you find an interesting mystery plant while weeding, move it to a holding bed until you can figure out if it’s something special or a candidate for the compost pile. (I admit that I have pampered an embarrassing number of weeds doing this, but at least it has been an excellent way to learn what they look like at all stages, and now I know better than to leave the seedlings in my garden!) A holding bed is a great place to grow unlabeled acquisitions until you find out what their flowers look like. It can also serve as a quarantine area for gift plants, so you can watch them for pests, diseases or creeping tendencies before you let them loose in your garden.

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Building a garden holding bed

This is probably one of the simplest garden projects you’ll ever tackle. Pick a spot for your holding bed, place a “frame,” fill it with soil, and you’re ready to plant.

Choose the right site for a holding bed

Look for a spot that’s relatively near the house so you can easily reach your holding bed with a hose or don’t have to carry water very far. You want it close enough that you’ll remember to look at it regularly, but not in a high-visibility spot, because it’s meant for utility and not good looks. Consider putting it in a side yard, close to the garden shed, or in a corner of the vegetable garden.

If you have both sun and shade, it’s ideal to have a holding bed in each area, so you have a place for growing both kinds of plants. If you have room for only one bed, though, go for sun; you can always shade part of it with a bit of trellis or old window screen.

How to build a garden holding bed

A raised-bed frame that’s 6 to 12 inches high neatly defines your holding area and makes it easy to provide loose, well-drained soil, which encourages good root growth and makes for easy digging when you are ready to move plants to other homes. Figure on a width of up to 4 feet if you can access the bed from two or more sides, or a maximum of about 2 feet wide if it is against a wall or fence. The length can be whatever works for your site. A 2×3-, 3×3- or 3×4-foot frame is a good size to start with.

Many raised-bed kits are available in a wide range of sizes, shapes, and materials. Or buy just the corner brackets and make the sides from naturally rot-resistant wood, such as cedar or plastic lumber.

Prepare to plant a garden holding bed

1. If you’re putting the bed in a lawn area, it’s a good idea to dig up the grass or lay newspapers — three to five sheets thick over the site to smother it, to discourage the turf from creeping into the new bed.
2. After constructing the frame, place it on the ground and fill it with growing medium, so the surface is about even with the top of the frame; it will settle a bit over time. Use a 3:1 ratio of good topsoil to sifted compost, or buy a bagged raised-bed mix.
3. Water the new holding bed thoroughly, or let it go through a soaking rain, to evenly wet the soil and help it to settle before planting.

Water, weed & mulch

Because they are small and close together, the residents of your holding bed benefit from frequent attention. Check them every few days, or at least once a week, and water and weed as needed. A hori hori knife makes quick work of weeds and is ideal for adding or removing closely spaced plants.

It’s helpful to cover the soil with an organic mulch, such as leaf mold, coir mulch or rice hulls, to keep the soil evenly moist and encourage vigorous root growth.

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Best products for garden holding beds

Convinced? Here are some of my favorite tools and products that make building and maintaining a holding bed easy:

Hori hori knife

I love the feel and balance of the wooden-handled ones, but it is easy to lose them in the garden, so I also have a couple with bright-orange plastic handles.

Raised-bed corners

There are lots of options, but I have gotten decades of use from my plastic corner brackets.

Raised-bed kits

I have a bunch of galvanized-metal beds like these and love them; they’re relatively inexpensive, easy to put together, and long-lasting (no rot!).

Coir mulch

I love coir mulch! It’s pricey but worth it for small, special areas, like holding beds. It’s light and easy to spread but doesn’t blow around, and it lets water through readily.