Tent caterpillars vs. fall webworms

If you treated your trees for tent caterpillars in spring, you may be surprised (and possibly alarmed!) to see webbing in other trees in the fall. Should you spray again? Probably not. It's likely that they are actually two different critters: Tent caterpillars and fall webworms.

Tent caterpillars (Malacosoma americanum) eat foliage in spring. Fall webworms (Hyphantria cunea) eat foliage after the tree or shrub has already stored energy for winter and is preparing to go dormant.

Are they harmful?

It’s a good idea to treat the tent caterpillars. They eat tender new growth, which weakens the trees, making them more susceptible to other pests or diseases later in the season.

Fall webworms, on the other hand, are more unsightly than harmful. Their feeding isn’t usually as much of a problem so you can just leave them alone.

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Tips From the Pros: Ideas for Gorgeous Fall Container Displays

Just because the growing season is winding down doesn’t mean you have to give up on your containers. Garden designer Susan Nock has been designing and planting them for more than 10 years and has lots of tips and ideas to share for creating gorgeous fall designs. Watch the Talk & Tour video above to get a garden design pro’s tips for creating beautiful fall containers, and see how Susan brings her seasonal designs together.

Coordinate container colors with your home and garden

Before Susan starts planting, she looks at where the container will sit. Whether it’s in a border or along a path, her goal is to create a “color conversation” — a back and forth between the container and the area around it so the container fits in seamlessly.

In the photo above, she’s picked up color notes from the home’s door, trim and siding in the pots near the entry. There’s also a lacecap hydrangea near the foundation that is white in summer but develops a red-pink blush in fall, so she chose the classic orange, red and yellow fall-color palette to coordinate with that standout shrub.

Susan finds that odd numbers in a grouping look best. In this group of three that you can see more clearly in the photo below, the large square pot is 20 inches square, the medium round one is 18 inches and the smallest is 12 inches. The largest pots usually have several different types of plants, but there’s just one in the smallest so the group doesn’t look too busy or confusing.

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Use containers to create visual clues for visitors

Another key role this fall entry grouping plays is to guide visitors along the path to the front door. Giving them an “oh, there’s something there so I should follow” kind of clue. Bright orange pumpkins and the showy croton foliage are sure attention-getters, drawing people along the path to the entry.

In other areas of the garden, Susan likes to create destinations. It might be an out-of-the-way patio or a bench tucked away in a side yard that could be hard to find unless you place a colorful container at the bend in a path or close to the journey’s end.

Beautify a fall border by adding containers

The great thing about containers is that they’re mobile, so you can move them wherever you need some help. Do you have a tired spot in the border where the perennials and shrubs are done blooming and the annuals are looking ragged? That’s an ideal spot for fall containers to add a visual pop.

Or maybe you have a fall border with plenty of low-growing but colorful garden mums in need of a little added height. Slip in a group of containers like the ones we’ve talked about here and you’ll have a beautiful display.

Susan uses this same approach for working containers in every season. While some of her clients want the traditional burnished red, orange and yellow colors for fall designs, others prefer cool shades — whatever the color scheme, she loves them all. Read on to get a look at some of the beautiful fall containers she created for her own home.

Tips for designing interesting fall containers

Susan is a big fan of foliage-focused containers, even in fall. They’re easy-care and look good until frost. A variety of leaf shapes, sizes and textures, as seen with the ‘Toffee Twist’ sedge, coral bells and dichondra in the planting above, ensures each plant stands out, providing a gorgeous design every time. Plus, a mix of small, medium and large leaves moves your eye through the planting, with the larger leaves providing a place to rest. Too many small- to medium-sized leaves create what Susan calls “a salad bowl container” that makes it hard to tell what’s what.

Love these fall containers?Get a PDF Download of Susan's container designs including plant lists here!

Choose the best containers

If you’re shopping for containers, large ones — 18 inches in diameter or larger — are definitely worth the investment. The size easily attracts attention; plants are healthier because there’s more room for roots to grow, and with more potting mix, it stays moist longer, so you water less. An added benefit is that you can plant larger specimens for instant impact. Buying bigger plants is an especially good idea for fall containers, as plants don’t put on a lot of new growth in cooler temperatures.

In Susan’s zone 6 garden, bigger pots mean she’s been able to overwinter evergreens, like the arborvitae in the photo above that’s a couple of years old. In spring, Susan will move this shrub to a separate pot and tuck it away in a corner of the garden to showcase again the following fall and winter.

All-weather materials

Her favorite all-weather pots are made of fiberstone and come from Campania. Most of the terra-cotta pots go indoors for the winter, but she still makes use of them for as long as possible.

Consider container height

How tall a container should be depends on the situation. Susan often lets the house or other garden structures dictate the size. At an entry, she likes the container to be about a third the size of the door. A 24-inch-tall pot with an arborvitae is just the right size to attract attention to the shed’s door. In the border, Susan looks for a fence, a shrub or even a tall perennial to relate the container to and ensure a proportional look.

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Seasonal container swap-out

This spot on the deck is a high visibility area that Susan walks by daily and can see from her kitchen window, so she creates seasonal displays to enjoy every year. The summer group (above) had lots of tender house plants, succulents and bromeliads that needed to go indoors once fall nights were getting chilly.

Fall display

So Susan swapped those out for cool-weather-loving garden mums, ornamental kale, heather and, of course, pumpkins you see above. The big arborvitae at the end of the bench and long concrete trough are too heavy to move, so they stay in place all year.

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Mesa Red blanket flower

Gaillardia x grandiflora

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Deep red, daisy-shaped blooms in late spring to late summer
Light: Full sun
Soil: Prefers moist, well-drained soil; tolerates dry soil
Pests: None serious
Size: 14 to 16 in. tall, 20 to 22 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10
Plant Source: Local garden centers

Think you don’t need a blanket in summer? Think again! Blanket flowers add a punch of continuous color to any sunny garden. And Mesa Red blooms even longer than most varieties, starting in late spring and lasting through late summer. With 2- to 3-inch-wide red, nonfading, daisy-shaped flowers, a few of these gorgeous little perennials can make a big, colorful statement in some of your toughest, hottest garden spots. Plus, they’re more compact than most blanket flower cultivars, so the clumps won’t fall apart in the middle or sprawl over neighboring plants.

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Welcome pollinators with blanket flower

If you’re trying to attract pollinators to your garden, Mesa Red extends a colorful welcome. Bees, butterflies and hummingbirds love the nectar-rich flowers. Just as important, deer and rabbits tend to avoid them. They make good, long-lasting cut flowers too, so you can enjoy them indoors or out.

Got a hot spot? Blanket flowers thrive in lots of sun but get leggy and floppy in too much shade. Moist, well-drained soil is best, but they will tolerate dry, sandy, and rocky soil. If you're trying to get this hybrid of two North American species started in a dry spot, make sure you water plants regularly for the first summer to get the root systems established. Avoid heavy clay soils, though, as the inadequate drainage causes rot.

Mesa Red blanket flower care

You don’t need to fertilize blanket flowers, either, as that can make them flop. Plants are often short-lived, lasting two to three years; make sure they have adequate drainage and cut them back to 5 or 6 inches high in the fall to help them last longer.

If you purchase potted plants, they generally bloom the first summer. You can also start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost, or sow them directly outdoors after the last frost. The seeds need light to germinate, so sow them on the surface of the seed-starting mix. Seed-grown blanket flowers likely won’t bloom until the second year.

However you choose to plant them, Mesa Red blanket flowers will be a summer star in any sunny garden! Find a colorful garden bed design below to get started with this tough perennial.

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Colorful planting plan for hot, sunny spots with Mesa Red Blanket flower

This bright primary-colored combo won’t wash out in a hot, sunny corner of the garden, so you and the butterflies can enjoy it all summer long. Keep this planting watered regularly the first summer you plant it, and it’ll be able to tolerate some drought in subsequent years — this makes it a perfect combination for a spot a little farther from a water source.

A. YarrowAchillea ‘Moonshine’
Perennial; yellow blooms from early to late summer; full sun; 12 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

B. Blanket flowerGaillardia x grandiflora Mesa Red
Perennial; deep red, daisy-shaped blooms in late spring to late summer; full sun; 14 to 16 in. tall, 20 to 22 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10

C. VeronicaVeronica ‘Blue Sprite’
Perennial; blue-purple spikes in early to late summer; full sun; 3 to 6 in. tall, 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7

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Agastache for Deer-Resistant, Drought-Tolerant Gardens in Every Region

When you want a border buzzing with bees, bursting with butterflies and humming with hummingbirds, agastache (Agastache spp. and hybrids) is a great choice. Besides getting lots of love from pollinators, this amazing perennial has fragrant foliage topped by long-lasting blooms and takes hot dry spells in stride. Plus, deer and rabbits leave it alone, and it’s rarely bothered by insect pests or disease.

Agastache comes in many shapes and sizes (and names!)

There are 22 species of agastache — most native to North America and Mexico — and numerous hybrids that all grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. What sets most agastache species and their hybrids apart is the soil they grow in. Those with roots in the Southwest United States and Mexico, such as licorice mint or Texas hummingbird mint, do best where the soil is lean and sharply drained.

Anise hyssop, a native to the Great Plains, or Korean mint from Asia thrive in richer soil with more organic matter and moisture. But all types of agastache will rot if the soil is consistently wet or soggy.

Common names vary and sometimes even overlap, but I’ll call the Southwest types hummingbird mint and the prairie types hyssop. Whatever the name, this practically perfect perennial has a lot to offer.

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Regional advice for growing agastache

Full sun and well-drained soil are a must for growing great agastache anywhere you garden, but different regions have different dilemmas. I talked with four experts who navigate the same growing challenges as home gardeners, and they shared their tips for growing beautiful plants along with a few varieties that have performed especially well. 

Growing agastache in the Midwest

Expert: Richard Hawke | Director of Ornamental Plant Research, Chicago Botanic Garden, IL

Summers are hot and humid in Chicago, and soils can range from rich and loamy to dense clay. Because Chicago Botanic Garden is so close to Lake Michigan, there can be lots of snow and strong winds to accompany the cold temperatures.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: There’s no need to feed agastache in the ground or in pots — they flower well without it.
• Mulch: Border plants get mulched in spring with a custom blend made from garden debris that has a leafy texture with no big chunks.
• Maintenance: Hyssop types handle the growing conditions at the Chicago Botanic Garden with ease and can sometimes even reseed. ‘Golden Jubilee’ can be extra generous so may need deadheading if you don’t want more plants.
• Beware of rot: The denser soil and wet winters can cause the roots and crowns of hummingbird mint to rot in borders. However, Richard has noticed that some newer varieties have better survival rates. Planting in containers is also a good alternative. Many are compact and bloom continuously without deadheading, almost like an annual.
• Plant trials: With all the new introductions, Richard is working on a plant trial of 48 hummingbird mint varieties to see how quickly they bulk up and bloom in one season. Results should be released in 2028.

Top agastache varieties for the Midwest

• ‘Rosie Posie’ A. hybrid
  Returned for several years in borders around the garden
• ‘Queen Nectarine’ A. hybrid
  Plants grew to 3 feet tall in one year
• ‘Purple Haze’ A. hybrid
  Has longer, more graceful flowers than others

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Growing agastache in the Southwest

Expert: Linda Churchill | Director of Horticulture, Santa Fe Botanical Garden, NM

Close to the Rocky Mountains, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden sits at 7,200 feet in elevation with a growing season from early May to October. The climate is generally hot and dry, though the garden’s location has a colder microclimate. The soil tends to be alkaline with a high mineral content and varying depths of caliche, a claylike soil that’s as hard as concrete.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Linda grows a lot of hummingbird mints in containers at home and does use a balanced liquid plant food, such as Miracle-Gro^®, since she’s often watering daily in summer and nutrients are quick to wash away.
• Mulch: Cramming plants together in the border works a lot like mulch, helping keep weeds down and conserving moisture. But hummingbird mint doesn’t like humidity, so Linda and her staff keep an eye out for fungus or mold that could develop. They sometimes mulch with gravel but don’t need much — an inch or so is just fine.
• Maintenance: Linda finds that plants come through winter better if you leave the dead stems in place to provide some protection for the crown.

Top agastache picks for the Southwest

• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Reseeds gracefully
• Texas hummingbird mint A. cana
  This variety gets taller than many others
• Desert Sunrise^®A. hybrid
  Needs slightly more water than others

Growing agastache in the Mountain West

Expert: Bridget Blomquist | Associate Director of Horticulture, Denver Botanic Gardens, CO

With over 300 days of sunshine on average in the Denver area, there’s never any worry about plants not getting enough light. Summers are hot and dry with cool nights, and winter is mild but can get quite snowy with high winds.

Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies are always on the agastache, but the hummers are a favorite. Bridget loves watching them dive-bomb, tussle and whistle at each other, as they argue over who gets to feed from which bloom.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Because these plants do best in lean soil, she hasn’t found the need to fertilize.
• Mulch: Squeegee is the mulch of choice for agastache at the Denver Botanic Gardens. It’s smaller and more angular than pea gravel and helps keep the border well drained. It provides that western garden look and doesn’t blow around in the wind. In addition, the smaller rock makes it easier to pull weeds.
• Maintenance: Bridget deadheads the hyssop types because they reseed prolifically in the borders but hasn’t found the need to deadhead hummingbird mint. Plants come through winter easily except when they’re in a spot where the snow is piled. Those tend to die — likely due to winter wet.

Top agastache picks for the Mountain West

• ‘Ava’ A. hybrid
  Blooms a bit later than others so extends the season
• Kudos series A. hybrid
  Smaller plants are good for rock gardens
• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Two-toned orange flowers with purple calyxes are a great contrast to silvery foliage

Growing Agastache in the South

Expert: Sandra Begani | UGA Trial Garden Manager, University of Georgia Trial Gardens, GA

Even with hot, humid summers that are regularly in the 90s and sporadic rainstorms followed by long dry periods, hummingbird mint has been a great performer for Sandra at the trial garden in Athens, Georgia. Even better, while deer regularly munch on other plants, they leave hummingbird mint alone.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Georgia’s red clay soil is a well-known challenge for gardeners in that area and is probably why plants tend to be short-lived. To make sure the agastaches grow and bloom happily, Sandra and her team till compost and granular fertilizer into the flower beds.
• Mulch: Easy-to-find pine straw mulch is applied annually to help conserve moisture, prevent erosion and keep the weeds down. That’s a big help because hummingbird mint attracts so many bees that weeding can be difficult at certain times of the day.
• Maintenance: These are dry-loving plants but if there hasn’t been any rain all week, she’ll make sure plants get a deep watering so their growth and blooming don’t suffer.

Top agastache picks for the South

• Poquito Butter Yellow A. hybrid
  Lots of yellow flowers and compact habit
• Maestro^™ Gold A. hybrid
  Heat resistant and flowered all summer
• Summerlong Lilac A. mexicana
  Season-long color and tolerates dry conditions

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The garden is the home’s largest consumer of water. So, as a savvy gardener, water conservation — no matter where you live — should be a concern. A well-designed, water-wise landscape that incorporates water-saving devices and techniques can still be a lush and inviting space without wasting water.

Here are a handful of water-smart garden hacks that will get you through the summer with minimal irrigation — and are guaranteed to make your life easier. Each of these tips is sure to save time (by watering more efficiently), money (on monthly water bills and maintenance) and, of course, our precious water.

1. Choose the right watering tool for the job

Most everyone knows it’s best to water early in the day (to prevent unnecessary evaporation). But there are all kinds of simple ways to water more effectively. And often, it’s just a matter of having the right tool for the job, whether it's a good-sized watering can, the right hose attachment, a generous soaker hose or a timer to make watering more efficient.

A large, lightweight watering can — 2- to 3-gallon capacity, if you can carry it — will allow you to spot-water thirsty plants and smaller containers without dragging a hose around and splashing water.

High-quality hose attachments like extendable watering wands can help get water to hard-to-reach hanging baskets, into large containers and deep raised garden beds.

Soaker hoses are the simplest way to water specific spots. There’s no waste when the water goes right into the soil where you need it without spraying. Plus less moisture on plant leaves means less susceptibility to fungal diseases.

An irrigation timer and drip irrigation system deliver a slow, steady supply of water right when and where it’s needed. You can set up a simple system for watering plants in containers, raised beds, trees and shrubs. The easiest way to begin is with just a timer and a soaker hose.

For larger jobs, consider a drip irrigation kit, which comes with tubing, emitters, fittings to connect hoses and hold-down stakes to keep the tubing in place in the ground. Keep in mind that drip irrigation is not a set-and-forget-it solution: You’ll want to check your system regularly to be sure the emitters are not clogged and that rodents haven’t caused damage.

Use a water timer wisely

Use an irrigation timer to turn off the water. It’s easy to forget that the hose is running or that the drip system is turned on. A timer prevents accidental and wasteful overwatering by customizing when to water and for how long. Besides frequency and duration, you can adjust the timer based on future temperatures and weather forecasts. Smart water timers can adjust to the weather and water based on site conditions.

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2. Use permeable paving

Ditch the poured concrete and consider other options that allow rainwater to percolate below the surface and reach the soil. There are three options to consider: permeable, porous and pervious pavers. Each possesses certain physical and aesthetic attributes that need to be considered before beginning a project.

Permeable pavers are composed of a layer of concrete or brick. The pavers are separated by joints filled with crushed stone. These are different from pervious and porous pavers in that rainwater passes around the paver as opposed to through it.

Porous pavers generally are a grid system filled with soil, sand or gravel. This system allows for grass reinforcement and ground stabilization. Concrete turf block for grass paving began in the mid-1940s, and plastic versions were introduced in the 1970s and 80s. Porous pavers are manufactured in a variety of designs and materials, including plastic and concrete. Concrete turf block for grass paving reduces compaction of the soil to maintain permeability, while the roots improve water filtration.

Pervious pavers allow stormwater to percolate through the surface rather than running off into surrounding areas or storm drains. As water runs through, the pavers filter out pollutants. Like grass, pervious pavers — manufactured from natural stone and organic polymers — allow the ground below to breathe.

3. Harvest & save rainwater with a rain barrel

Rainwater harvesting can be as simple as installing a rain barrel under a gutter coming off a roof. It can be expanded to include a cistern to handle overflow. The only thing that differs between the two is the scale of the system. They both follow the same principles. A large system just captures water from more than one source.

There are a variety of commercially available rain barrels in a wide range of sizes, shapes and styles. Most have a 100-gallon capacity, but larger versions (up to 500 gallons) are available. Look for one with an overflow valve (it kicks in when the barrel reaches capacity) and a mesh screen filter to keep out residue.

Remember, a rain barrel will be outside during all sorts of weather, from baking sun to thunderstorms to freezing ice and snow. Heavy-duty molded plastics, such as resin, can withstand the elements and won’t crack, peel or rot. Find out how to make one from a heavy duty trash can like you see in the photo above with these simple instructions: DIY Rain Barrel Project.

What size rain barrel do I need?

1 inch of rain falling on 1,000 square feet of roof yields 623 gallons of water
Following this formula, a 500-gallon rain barrel will capture most of a typical rainfall.

Using cisterns to store rainwater

Cisterns hold a higher volume of water and are a good choice for climates with infrequent rainfall. A house, garage and outbuildings can all feed into a single large (underground) cistern. Cisterns are, of course, more expensive, and keep in mind that the storage tanks must be placed next to the house, whether they are above or below ground.

To use a cistern, it helps to calculate the total amount of rainwater you can collect year-round. To do this, you need to know the annual rainfall for your region. For annual precipitation rates of the United States, visit www.ncei.noaa.gov/ access/us-climate-normals/

Check local regulations before installing a rain barrel

Certain states have regulations around use of rain barrels; be sure to check local ordinances before you get started.

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Grow a mosaic of foliage in shade

Despite having almost no flowers, this combination is loaded with color and variety. The white-splashed foliage of Chinese fairy bells anchors both sides of the bed, while flashes of chartreuse offer continuity. At the same time, broad hosta leaves, fernlike dog fennel and fine-bladed hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass come together to create a collage of texture.
These plants grow best in part to full shade and evenly moist conditions.

Growing tips

Chinese fairy bells and Chinese wild ginger spread by rhizomes, while hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass form clumps that slowly expand. Let them grow together in a seamless carpet of ground covers that will inhibit weeds while keeping each other’s growth in check. In spring, trim out winter-damaged foliage or shear off at ground level.

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Foliage-focused shade garden plant list

A) Chinese fairy bellsDisporum cantoniense ‘Moonlight’
Perennial; white flower clusters in late spring to early summer above stems of small variegated green leaves streaked white with a pink blush; part to full shade; 18 to 24 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

B) HostaHosta ‘Brother Stefan’
Perennial; white flower spikes in late spring to early summer over puckered green leaves with golden yellow centers; part to full shade; 20 to 22 in. tall, 24 in. tall in bloom, 30 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

C) Chinese wild gingerAsarum splendens
Perennial; inconspicuous purple flowers in early spring are hidden around the base of showy, heart-shaped silver-splashed leaves; part to full shade; 6 to 9 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

D) HakonechloaHakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’  
Perennial; yellow-green flowers age to tan in midsummer atop grassy, bright chartreuse foliage; part to full shade; 12 to 18 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

E) Dog fennelEupatorium capillifolium ‘Elegant Feather’ 
Perennial; sterile, insignificant white fall flowers top feathery green foliage that turns red before frost; full sun to part shade; 3 to 6 ft. tall, 1 to 3 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9

F) Taiwan mondo grassOphiopogon formosanus
Perennial; white flowers in summer followed by blue fruit over light green grassy foliage; part to full shade; 4 to 6 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

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Hosta-filled perennial shade garden

Enjoy beautiful variegation and a touch of color in this perennial planting layout for part to full shade. A variegated weigela adds standout foliage, while a mix of hosta varieties brings layers of texture, color and contrast. Unique cultivars of shade garden favorites that pollinators will love too are also featured.

Tips for designing a shade garden bed full of texture

Large, broad-leaved hostas form a solid background that makes a statement in this shady bed. For contrast, finer-textured ‘My Monet’ weigela’s pink spring blooms and blushing variegated foliage highlight the front of the bed. Native spigelia lends a pop of bright red that appeals to hummingbirds.

Showcase small hostas by planting them in containers. Tiny ‘Winsome’ is tucked into this bed in a tall, slender container, which raises it up so it is easier to see, while ‘Frosted Mouse Ears’ dwarf hosta catches attention in a low hypertufa container in front.

Care tips

To prevent scorching on the leaves in this combination, choose a spot with afternoon shade and keep the soil evenly moist. Cut back dead perennial foliage in early spring as new growth begins to appear. Remove any damaged weigela branches before the plant leafs out, but hold off on pruning until after it blooms. Pruning too early can remove flower buds, as weigela forms next spring’s blooms on the current season’s growth.

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Perennial shade garden bed plant list

A) HostaHosta ‘Lakeside Cupid’s Cup’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in midsummer on blue-green corrugated leaves with a cream edge; part to full shade; 12 to 14 in. tall, 30 to 42 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

B) HostaHosta ‘Winsome’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in summer above dark green leaves with white edges; part to full shade; 3 to 8 in. tall, 16 to 18 in. tall in bloom, 15 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

C) SpigeliaSpigelia marilandica
Perennial; tubular red flowers open yellow on the inside in early summer atop glossy green leaves; part to full shade; 12 to 24 in. tall, 6 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

D) HostaHosta ‘Sum and Substance’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in late summer above large corrugated chartreuse leaves; part to full shade; 2 to 3 ft. tall, 4 ft. tall in bloom, 3 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

E) WeigelaWeigela florida My Monet^®
Shrub; pink flowers in early to late spring on variegated pink-tinged leaves; full sun to part shade; 12 to 18 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 6

F) FoamflowerTiarella ‘Starfish’ 
Perennial; pale pink flowers in late spring rise from clumps of green leaves with dark veining; part to full shade; 8 in. tall, 13 in. tall in flower, 13 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) HostaHosta ‘Frosted Mouse Ears’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in early summer on petite clumps of rounded leaves with blue-green centers and white edges; part to full shade; 4 to 7 in. tall, 6 to 12 in. tall in bloom, 14 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

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White is such a versatile color. It can look fresh and clean, or cool and classy. Gardens will look that way, too, dressed up in white. Choose a few white flowers for your garden, and they will reflect whatever style you want, from casual cottage gardens to formal style.

Consider both cool and warm shades of white

But which white will you use? A white with blue undertones can look ice cold, but you can use that to your advantage in a combo that includes blue or purple flowers. Grow them near a warm patio to help create a cool and relaxed feeling. Pair warmer creamy whites with reds and yellows to tone down the more intense colors. Can’t decide which white flower you like best? No problem — use them all! An all-white garden has an elegant style that’s hard to beat.

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How to use white flowers in your garden

Concerned that white will look too stark in your bright-colored garden? If you set a white cosmos next to a red rose, you might be surprised to see that the cosmos has a hint of pale pink. That’s because many whites reflect the color nearby. So don’t count white out — it has a way of fitting in almost anywhere.

White always seems to look best in the shade of evening or morning’s early glow. So I have white flowers in a spot where the rising sun peeks in between the neighbor’s houses. They catch and hold that golden light as I’m enjoying my morning coffee. On the other hand, afternoon light is usually a little intense. It can make white overly bright or wash it out so you can’t make out the details.

8 of Our Favorite White Flowers

I’ve gathered a few of my favorite white flowers for cutting gardens and mixed borders. There are annuals and perennials for sun and shade, as well as a tree and a gorgeous clematis. By now you probably have a few ideas about where to grow white flowers, so let’s take a look at some plants you might want to use.

Sparkler White spider flower (Cleome hassleriana)

Sparkler^™ White above has big 4- to 6-inch flowers of pure white. The name is perfect. A large group of this cultivar can really sparkle in the late-day or early-morning sun. Plant a drift of white flowers — it’s quite noticeable from a distance. Sparkler White is a choice cultivar for calling attention to the back border of a large yard.

Direct sow spider flower in spring and it will bloom the same year. It does reseed easily, though. And if you have the more common pink-and-white variety nearby, next year’s plants won’t all be white. You can prevent reseeding by snipping off the bean-like seedpods that form under the flower.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Early summer to frost
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 36 to 48 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

BabyWing White begonia (Begonia hybrid)

Petite BabyWing^™ White begonia is a great space-saver. In addition, it’s low-maintenance and tolerant of a wide range of conditions, including periods of drought, shady spots and even the hot metal urn this plant is growing in. Begonias do better when the potting mix dries out between waterings. Too much water and the plants will rot.

Because the crisp white begonia flowers have thick petals and a waxy texture, they’re great at reflecting light. You can see what a strong contrast the white is against the black urn. That helps to create the elegant, formal feel.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Spring to frost
Light: Part sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 12 to 15 in tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

‘Sonata White’ cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Looking for an easy-to-grow cut flower to add to your garden? Check out the seed rack at your favorite garden center and grab a few packets of ‘Sonata White’ cosmos. Start plants from seed and they’ll flower from early summer until frost the first year.

Once it’s blooming, butterflies are sure to visit, flitting around the 3-inch flowers. Don’t forget to cut a few for yourself, too. It’s great in bouquets. Inside or out, those papery thin petals look lovely with sunlight filtering through. Pair cosmos with heavier-looking zinnias to brighten up the combo.

Type: Annual
Blooms: Early summer to frost
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained to poor
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 15 in. wide

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‘Black Negligee’ bugbane (Actaea simplex)

Need some height in your shade garden? Try stately ‘Black Negligee’ bugbane. White bottlebrush flowers can get up to 24 inches long and are quite fragrant. Though plants do well in shade, they need some sun to get the darkest foliage. And you’re going to want it. The darker the leaves, the better they highlight the white flowers. Besides that, deep shade causes flower stalks to lean toward the light and need staking to stay upright. Growing plants under a high-limbed tree is usually your best bet. Slow-growing bugbane needs consistent moisture and rich organic soil to look good.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Late summer to fall
Light: Part to full shade
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Size: 4 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

‘Fama White’ pincushion flower (Scabiosa caucasica)

The big 3- to 4-inch blooms of ‘Fama White’ pincushion flower bobbing in the breeze are a classic summer image. Add the butterflies that flutter in and you have a picture-perfect garden! If you grow flowers, bouquets can’t be far from your mind. Cut a few to take inside — they last up to a week. Long stems grow over a low mound of foliage, so they’re easy to cut.

This plant is more than just a pretty flower, though. It’s deer resistant and drought tolerant, too. Combine 'Fama White' with oranges, yellows and reds to keep hot colors from looking too intense.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 20 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 10

‘Snow Queen’ clematis (Clematis hybrid)

This clematis is an old favorite for good reason. Those 6- to 7-inch white flowers with red-purple anthers attract a lot of attention. Grow it on a trellis, an obelisk or even in a container. New spring flowers open with a slight pink or blue tint that fades quickly to white. ‘Snow Queen’ is at its showiest early in the season but there’s a second, smaller flush in late summer.

Pruning is simple

As this variety blooms on old wood in spring and new growth in summer, just cut back any broken or dead branches before it blooms. If needed, thin the vines after they bloom to keep it from looking wild.

Type: Vine
Blooms: Late spring and late summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 6 to 10 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

Fothergilla (Fothergilla major)

Fragrant, creamy white bottlebrush blooms of fothergilla are charming in early spring. Then summer brings leathery blue-green foliage that turns red, yellow and orange, often all on the same leaf, in fall. You can see it in the inset photo.

Get more flowers

The flowers bloom at the tips of the branches, so you can simply deadhead them. But if you cut back to a leaf joint, your fothergilla will reward you with more flowers in midspring. As a bonus, this pruning encourages a fuller, bushier growth habit.

Type: Shrub
Blooms: 2- to 3-in.-long bottlebrush white flowers in early spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained soil that’s acid to neutral
Size: 6 to 10 ft. tall, 6 to 8 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa)

Kousa dogwood flowers bring out plant envy in everyone who sees them. And it’s an understory tree, so even if you have an established tree, you can still grow a Kousa dogwood. The 3- to 5-inch white pointed flowers will go a long way toward brightening up a yard that has some shade. Those “petals” are actually bracts — a modified leaf — and the flowers, which butterflies like a lot, by the way, are in the center. In its younger years, Kousa dogwood has a vase-shaped habit. As it ages, it develops a more rounded look.

Type: Tree
Blooms: Late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained to sandy
Size: 15 to 30 ft. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

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When designing a perennial border, keep in mind each plant's growth habit, branching pattern, and leaf shape. Large, solid leaves command attention and visually make a space seem smaller. In contrast, fine, delicate foliage seems to recede, creating a more open, spacious feeling. Grassy or swordlike blades add striking vertical lines.

When combined, this patchwork of varied plant shapes gives a garden depth as light and shadow play across the greenery. A garden with great texture is eye-catching, even when no flowers are in bloom. Explore the plants and design details behind this sunny perennial border created by Kansas gardener Joyce Householder.

Love this garden? Read the full feature!

Create a terraced landscape to showcase perennials

Terracing on this slope helps to slow rainwater runoff and control erosion in Joyce's garden. The added benefit is a better view of the gorgeous assortment of perennials that grow here in full sun, shown above in late spring. Although flowers come and go through spring and summer, the constant is the contrast between the strappy bearded iris foliage, velvety Russian sage leaves and solid mounds of false indigo.

Plant care tips

• To encourage a light rebloom, cut back salvia, spike speedwell, bearded penstemon and catmint after the first flush of flowers fade.
• Snip faded iris blossoms to keep the plant tidy, but let spent false indigo flowers form black seed pods that look intriguing through fall and winter.

Fall cleanup

• Most of these perennials die back to the ground in winter, so cut off dead foliage in late fall after a frost or in early spring as new growth begins.
• Russian sage stems can stay standing all winter to provide structure. It’s semi-evergreen in warmer hardiness zones. In colder zones where it dies back, trim to 8 to 12 inches tall in spring as new leaves emerge near the base.

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Sunny perennial border plant list

A) Salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’)
Perennial; deep blue-violet flower spikes from early summer through fall above mounds of rough leaves; full sun; 18 to 20 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

B) Speedwell (Veronica ‘Lavender Lightsaber’)
Perennial; lavender flower spikes in early to midsummer rise above clumps of medium green foliage; full sun; 28 to 30 in. tall, 18 to 20 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

C) False indigo (Baptisia ‘Sparkling Sapphires’)
Perennial; violet-blue flowers in late spring to early summer on upright, blue-green foliage; full sun to part shade; 30 to 36 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

D) Bearded penstemon (Penstemon barbatus ‘Jingle Bells’)
Perennial; red-orange tubular flowers on long stems from late spring to early summer above clumps of basal foliage; full sun; 18 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

E) Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
Perennial; tiny lavender-blue flowers line tall stems of silver, fernlike foliage from mid- to late summer; full sun; 2 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 4 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

F) Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata)
Perennial; yellow daisies on long, thin stems from late spring to early summer stretch above a rosette of narrow, lobed leaves; full sun; 12 to 18 in. tall, 15 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) Bearded iris (Iris ‘Obsidian’)
Perennial; deep purple to black flowers in mid- to late spring above swordlike leaves; full sun to part shade; 30 to 33 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

H) Catmint (Nepeta faassenii ‘Cat’s Meow’)
Perennial; blue-purple flowers in late spring to early summer on mounds of dusky green foliage; full sun to part shade; 17 to 20 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

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Tips for creating a shade garden oasis

When Joyce Hannaford and her husband, Charlie, moved into their Massachusetts home 23 years ago, there wasn’t much there — Joyce felt like they were living in a fishbowl on their corner lot. So they added a privacy fence and planted lots of trees around the yard. It took some time, but now they have a sheltered place just outside their back door to eat dinner with friends or just relax alone.

Joyce has two brick patios connected by stone steps. The organic shape and color of the stone repeats the color and texture of the nearby raised beds and adds variety to all the bricks. Joyce calls the small patio with blue chairs the cocktail patio and the larger one the dining patio. Both are surrounded by lush shade-tolerant plantings.

Want to watch a tour of the entire garden? Check out the video above or watch the Talk & Tour on our YouTube channel here.

Manage trees

After 18 years, the roots of the multistemmed river birch next to the patio were pushing up the stone edging and the patio bricks. Plus the canopy had filled in and changed the area from dappled to dense shade. Joyce tried making adjustments to the border and carefully working around the main roots, but it just got too difficult to grow anything. So, reluctantly, she had it removed.

Adjusting to changing light conditions

The first year, the hakonechloa, ferns, hostas and other shade plants developed crispy leaf edges and looked a little faded in the extra sunlight. But the next season they bounced back, and with a little more light, it was easier to grow impatiens and other flowering plants that do best with a bit of light from morning sun or dappled shade.

Shade creates privacy

With a fence along the property line, trees screening the view of other nearby neighbors and layers of shrubs and perennials to muffle any sounds, this shady patio has a cozy, intimate feel.

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Enjoy the advantages of shade gardening

Joyce has discovered one big plus to gardening in shade — it’s a lot easier to move plants. The sun isn’t harsh, and the temperature here is a bit cooler. So if a plant isn’t doing well in an area, she moves it in the morning, waters a bit more than the other plants, and it settles in quickly.

Add a water feature

This stone recirculating fountain sits next to the dining patio and is surrounded by a collection of texture-rich shade perennials. Adding a water feature to this part of the garden provides both a focal point for the dining area and a source of soothing sound. Flowing water makes sitting in shade even more relaxing and helps mask sounds from nearby neighbors.

Winter care for outdoor water features

In her USDA zone 6 garden, Joyce has to drain the basin and put a stone cap on top of the fountain to prevent snow and debris from collecting there. Most winters she tops it off with a container full of greenery and colorful stems to create an enjoyable view from inside her warm home.

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