Cutting back tall sedums (Hylotelephium spp. and hybrids) in summer will help them stay upright better. This midseason haircut encourages growth just above the cuts, which makes a bushier, more compact plant that needs less staking.

Cut back tall sedum in early summer to prevent flopping

In early summer, or when plants are 12 to 15 inches tall, use pruners to cut the stems back by a third to a half right above a leaf joint. Flowers are usually smaller but more numerous. And cutting back will delay blooming, but at least you’ll have the flowers up where you can see them instead of lying on the ground. If they have already splayed out this season, try this quick tip from a reader to fix floppy perennials.

Have a Garden Question? Submit it here!

Learn more about ‘Autumn Joy’ tall sedum

The rounded flower clusters of ‘Autumn Joy’ (Hylotelephium 'Herbstfreude') are a huge favorite of butterflies, bees and other pollinators out and about in late summer to fall. Its pink blossoms turn rusty red by frost, drying a russet brown. Leave the dried flower stems until spring for a touch of winter interest.

Type Perennial
Blooms Dusky pink flowers age to rusty red in late summer to fall
Light Full sun
Size 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

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Original question submitted by Anita Polkabla

A Collector’s Garden in Portland, Oregon

When Gene Rozenboom bought this Portland, Oregon, property 14 years ago, soil from the unstable backyard slope was sitting against the siding, and the rest of the yard was overgrown with weeds and scraggly trees. But with a lot of hard work and creativity, Gene turned an unsightly yard into this amazing garden filled with dwarf conifers and Japanese maples (Acer palmatum). Watch the Talk & Tour video above for a look at the garden from our visit a couple of years ago.

Read the full feature in the Fall issue of Garden Gate, on newsstands now!Subscribe today or buy a copy of the issue from our online store.

Add specimens to an entry

A steep driveway leads to Gene’s contemporary home in the photo above left. After clearing dead, diseased and otherwise problematic trees and shrubs (including loads of thorny hawthorns (Crataegus spp.)), Gene planted choice specimens to provide seasonal interest and highlight the home’s breezeway entry above right, which frames a view of the backyard’s beautiful stone wall in the photo below.

Hardscaping for structure

Though it was tempting to jump in and start planting right away, Gene knew it was important to get the hardscape in place first. So after moving the soil away from the house and making the needed home repairs, he planned where the retaining wall, deck and sidewalks, such as the one in the photo below, would go.

Plant what you love

When it was time to start planting, Gene didn’t follow a plan on paper, but he did know the focus would be the plants he was passionate about: dwarf conifers and Japanese maples.

Conifer know-how

Because the slope is steep enough to make working on it a challenge, Gene placed most of his conifers there — they stay neat and tidy with minimal effort. Plus, growing them at eye level makes it easy to see their cones, the subtle needle patterns and colors. Walking down the sidewalk, you can run your hands through the soft needles of upright ‘Palouse’ mugo pine (Pinus mugo). But its companion across the walkway, a dwarf mountain hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana), has dense, almost prickly needles.

A collection of dwarf and miniature conifers

Gene collects dwarf and miniature varieties and says that while they’re small and cute when you first buy them, you do need to check the mature size. This dimension is usually based on the height and width of the tree at 10 years. But conifers continue to grow over the course of their lifespan — 30 to 50 years on average. And while dwarf conifers grow 1 to 6 inches annually and miniatures grow less than an inch each year, even these slow-growers can become a problem in the wrong spot.

Adding more space

After the stone wall and sidewalk were installed, Gene added a path up the slope and leveled out the area in photo above for even more garden space. As one of the sunniest spots in the yard, it’s been the go-to place for growing vegetables, especially tomatoes and cut flowers, over the years.

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Add color to the garden with Japanese maples

Japanese maples also play a key role in the garden, and Gene has found lots of ways to put them to good design use. ‘Tobiosho’ in the photo above left was one of the first maples he planted and is also one of the largest, growing up to 20 feet tall and 15 feet wide. Gene placed it in the front yard to balance out and soften the modern two-story home, making it less overwhelming as visitors approach. Walk through the breezeway, turn around, and this elegant tree at the end of the path becomes an instant focal point.

Weeping ‘Ryusen’ in the photo above right sits near the top of the slope where its draping habit acts like a ground cover, hiding the low stump of a tree that had to be removed.

“There was not a plan per se, but I had ideas of where plants could be concentrated. Basically, I purchased plants I liked and found a home for them.” — Gene Rozenboom

Plant Japanese maples for multiseason interest

When it comes to multiseason appeal, it’s hard to beat Japanese maples. Showy ‘Arakawa’, above, is right next to the front door, and has lacy green leaves in spring and summer. In fall they positively glow in yellow-gold and red — you can see them just starting to change in the photo. In addition, this species has highly textured, cork-like bark that steals the show in winter.

Japanese maples with colorful spring foliage

While Japanese maples are colorful in fall, Gene’s favorite time for them is in spring. Here are a few of his favorites:

• ‘Shirazz’ has purple-red spring leaves with a pink edge that later turns to gray-green with a cream edge.
• ‘Amber Ghost’ has amazing pink-peach leaves for up to six weeks before maturing to green.
• Heirloom ‘Iijima sunago’ leafs out pink-red and matures to brick red.
• ‘Autumn Moon’ full moon maple (Acer shirasawanum) is orange-red from spring to frost.

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Watch Our Talk & Tour Playlist on YouTube!

Create more space for outdoor living

Follow the sidewalk along the back of the house, and you’ll reach the spot in the photo above where it arches around the deck. Its cable railing makes the newest side yard garden shown in the photos below easy to see.

A patio for entertaining

The photo above gives you an idea of how spacious the deck is, with room for both dining and a fire pit seating area. There’s plenty of room to entertain friends and family or just sit outdoors, enjoy a cup of coffee and listen to the birds.

Containers filled with Japanese maples and annuals provide colorful accents, and the Corten steel planters create a subtle division between the different “rooms.” By keeping the plantings low, guests can still see and visit with each other.

Embracing a changing garden

The side yard used to be filled with trees until a big storm swept through several years ago and knocked most of them down. Gene saw this as an opportunity to try something new and has curated a collection of sun-loving annuals, perennials and ornamental grasses. His goal is to create a more natural appearance in these borders but still maintain some order and structure.

Playing with a new plant palette

He’s enjoyed working with a different palette of plants and is experimenting a bit to see which ones will work best. ‘Blackhawks’ big bluestem (Andropogon gerardii) in the photo above is one variety that has done really well, keeping its upright habit all season without flopping. Colorful annuals, such as the Profusion^™ Orange zinnias (Zinnia hybrid), coleus (Coleus scutellarioides), spider flower (Cleome hassleriana) and others provide bright accents and help fill the gaps when he’s changing up plantings or has a lot of new perennials in a border.

And of course, any garden that Gene creates wouldn’t be complete without dwarf conifers to provide structure and all-season color, and some amazing seasonal shows from a few beautiful Japanese maples. 

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Goldenrods With Soft Yellow and White Blooms

It’s most common for goldenrods (Solidago spp. and hybrids) to bloom in what we gardeners call “gold”: a bright, highway-line yellow that’s so welcome among the other rich colors in the later part of the growing season. If that’s a little too strong for your taste, though, you can find species and selections that bloom in softer shades of yellow, or even white. These less typical goldenrods offer a fresh take on a familiar late-season favorite while still bringing plenty of garden interest.

Read our complete Goldenrod Growing Guide in the Fall issue of Garden Gate magazine! Get your copy here.

Little Lemon goldenrod

Little Lemon (‘Dansolitlem’), above, is a compact hybrid that’s a good choice if you love goldenrods but don’t have room for a large, spreading plant. Its lemon-colored flowers gradually fade to pale yellow as they age, creating a softer look than the bright gold blooms you might expect. Try it near other late-season perennials for a gentle splash of color that won’t overwhelm its neighbors.

‘Sugar Kisses’ goldenrod

‘Sugar Kisses’ offers another twist on traditional goldenrod color. Its soft yellow buds open into white blooms, giving the plant a delicate, two-tone effect as the flowers develop. It’s a lovely option if you want to brighten up the garden with something a little unexpected.

Silverrod

For a completely different look, consider silverrod (Solidago bicolor), an Eastern U.S. native with white flowers and a very upright growth habit. Its slender profile makes it a natural fit for adding vertical interest to a perennial border without taking up too much space.

Upland white goldenrod

Upland white goldenrod (Solidago ptarmicoides) has white flowers, too, but its branching habit gives it a looser appearance that looks more like an aster than a typical goldenrod. Native mostly to the Central United States, it’s another option for gardeners who want to explore the muted side of this late-season bloomer.

Goldenrod plant sources

• Prairie Moon Nursery; prairiemoon.com; 866-417-8156
• High Country Gardens; highcountrygardens.com; 801-769-0300

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For too long, goldenrods were overlooked by American gardeners due to the mistaken belief that they were a cause of fall hay fever. Fortunately, those in the know now understand that the real culprit is more likely the air-carried pollen of ragweeds (Ambrosia spp.), which bloom around the same time but have barely noticeable greenish flowers. Goldenrods, with their showier blooms, often got the blame, but their pollen is heavier and stickier, designed to be carried not by the wind but by insects.

Goldenrod is a key plant for pollinators

And oh, the insects are happy to do just that! The multitude of tiny but tightly packed flowers is an all-you-can-eat buffet of pollen and nectar for a wide variety of bees, flies and beetles, which means that birds then feast on the frenzy of insect activity. Goldenrods are a must-have for butterfly gardens as well, feeding adult butterflies with their flowers and serving as host plants for their larvae.

But they’re more than just useful: Gorgeous goldenrods also contribute bright color and beautiful flower forms to the garden and provide ample opportunities for dramatic late-season combinations. They’re terrific to cut for bouquets, too!

A goldenrod for every garden

As more gardeners are catching on to the charms of these valuable and versatile perennials, commercial growers are starting to make more goldenrods available, but you’re still likely to find the best selection at nurseries that specialize in native plants. There’s a species for just about any site — wet or dry, sun or shade — so there’s no excuse for not growing at least one goldenrod in your garden. And don’t be put off by the reputation that a few goldenrods have for being aggressive spreaders, because there are plenty that are restrained enough to be basically trouble-free.

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Great Goldenrod Varieties to Grow in Shade

Autumn goldenrod Solidago sphacelata

• Light: Full sun to part shade
  
• Soil: Average, well-drained
  
• Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall and wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

For decades, autumn goldenrod has been best known through the superb 18- to 24-inch-tall selection ‘Golden Fleece’, a compact cultivar that still works beautifully as a flower-filled ground cover or edging plant for late-summer and early-fall interest. The straight species is harder to find but has recently been getting attention too, due to its pollinator-attracting power. It’s typically twice as tall as ‘Golden Fleece’, with thinner, arching flower clusters at the tips of its slender stems. Its overall finer texture is graceful enough to work well in a border but also natural enough to look right at home in a mini-meadow or naturalistic planting.

Keeping goldenrod in check

Both the species and ‘Golden Fleece’ can spread, but they tend to be polite about it instead of problematic: Just pull out some of the shoots around the edges if they’re creeping beyond where you want them. They look fantastic when paired with blue and purple companions, such as aromatic aster and ‘Iron Butterfly’ narrowleaf ironweed.

Blue-stemmed goldenrod Solidago caesia

• Light: Full sun to part shade 
• Soil: Moist to dry, well-drained 
• Size: 2 to 3 ft. tall, 1 to 2 ft. wide 
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

Also known as wreath goldenrod, blue-stemmed goldenrod is easy to please and sure to please in return. This species is naturally best suited to partial shade but can grow just about anywhere, and its clump-forming habit means there’s no need to worry about it creeping out of control, though it can self-sow.

The tiny but abundant flowers are packed into short clusters that bloom along the upper side of its slender, arching stems, mostly in early to mid-fall, the time when it can be most challenging to find late-season flowers for woodland gardens and shady pollinator plantings. Charming companions for blue-stemmed goldenrod include white wood aster (Eurybia divaricata) and blue wood aster (Symphyotrichum cordifolium), along with well-behaved ferns and sedges, such as Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides) and blue wood sedge (Carex flaccosperma).

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Zigzag goldenrod Solidago flexicaulis

• Light: Full sun to part shade 
• Soil: Average to moist, well-drained 
• Size: 1 to 3 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide 
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

This woodland species is a quiet presence in the garden until it bursts into bloom, mainly in late summer and early fall. The upper part of each wavy stem is lined with tufts of bright yellow flowers, which show off beautifully against the relatively broad, toothed leaves. Zigzag goldenrod is tough and adaptable, thriving in partial shade and somewhat moist soil but tolerating anything from sun to shade — even dry shade!

Keep in mind that this one is generally a moderate spreader, so it’s best in a good-sized garden, under trees or large shrubs or on a shady slope where you’re having trouble getting other perennials to grow. Consider pairing it with equally sturdy companions, such as Canada wild ginger (Asarum canadense) and northern sea oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) for a terrific textural contrast, and with blue mistflower (Conoclinium coelestinum) as a bloom buddy.

Read our complete Goldenrod Growing Guide in the Fall issue of Garden Gate magazine! Get your copy here.

Goldenrod plant sources

• Prairie Moon Nursery; prairiemoon.com; 866-417-8156
• High Country Gardens; highcountrygardens.com; 801-769-0300

As the growing season winds down, there’s still plenty to do in the garden, from saving the last of the tomato crop to getting spring bulbs in the ground. These reader-tested tips make fall chores quicker and easier, and a few of them reuse things you probably already have around the house.

Repurpose knitting needles in the garden

If you have more knitting needles than you need, or you stumble into old ones at a garage sale like Jessie did, reuse them in the garden. With a permanent marker, write the name of the plant on a used wine cork, then pierce the cork with the needle. The other end goes into the ground a couple inches deep like you see above, depending on the size of the needle, and makes a weatherproof and economical marker.

—Tip submitted by Jessie King, ME

Help tomatoes ripen before the first frost

Those green tomatoes hanging from your plants at summer’s end probably aren’t going to be ripening before the first frost—not without some assistance.

In her cool Maine climate, Karen harvests entire branches of green tomatoes a few weeks before the projected first frost. She cuts the vines just above the crown of the plant, takes them to her shed and hangs them upside down from screws in the rafters. With a row of windows on the southwest side of the shed offering warmth and ample room for airflow between the vines, the tomatoes continue to ripen on the vine and she harvests them into fall.

—Tip submitted by Karen Rollings, ME

Trim frozen stems of hostas and tomatoes

If you hate cleaning up mushy stems of frostbitten hosta and tomatoes, but don’t want to pull them out until you absolutely have to, try Trisha’s tip: She heads to the garden with her pruners first thing in the morning after a frost and cuts them back before they thaw and while they’re still frozen and brittle. It makes the task quick and easy.

—Tip submitted by Trisha Burdick, MN

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Avoid uprooting a dormant plant

When your garden is bursting, sometimes you accidentally uproot a dormant plant. So at planting time, Jeanne cuts a 2-inch-thick rim off of the plant’s plastic pot and secures it around the crown of the plant with landscape pins, sometimes cutting a slit in the rim to make space for larger plants. The rim sits on top of the soil — it’s hidden while the plant is growing but is easy to see when the plant is dormant.

Jeanne finds this most helpful for spring bulbs and the prairie smoke (Geum trifolium) above, but it’s also handy for marking small fall-planted perennials so you don’t forget where you put them by spring.

—Tip submitted by Jeanne Vaver, IL

Pre-mix flower bulbs before planting in fall

Make fall bulb planting easier—and your spring show last longer by premixing your bulbs according to bloom time. Barbara mixes early-, mid- and late-blooming spring bulbs into paper bags and labels each bag according to the garden bed she plans to plant in. Then planting is a breeze: Just grab your premixed bag, head to the spot and dig them in!

—Tip submitted by Barbara Athanas, WA

Did You Know We Pay $50 for Tips We Publish in Garden Gate magazine?

Send us photos and a description of your garden tip for a chance to be featured in the magazine. Please include your name, address and daytime phone number in case we have questions.

Subscribe to Garden Gate magazine for reader tips every season.

Photos courtesy of the contributors

Reader Garden Award 2026 Runner-Up:

Congratulations to Teresa Angotti from Weston, West Virginia!

For many property owners with a water view, the body of water becomes the main attraction. For Teresa Angotti, the West Fork River at the end of her backyard and the 60-year-old weeping willow at the water’s edge served as the inspiration for and inception of the gardens she has cultivated over the past 32 years.

Stay tuned! We'll be announcing our 2026 Reader Garden Award winner in the Winter issue of Garden Gate magazine. Subscribe now to get the issue!

Shade and sun together in one garden

Teresa has two distinct borders: one drenched in full sun and the other cast in the shade of that massive willow. Above, a cottage-style border is crafted with sun-loving perennials such as tall sedum (Hylotelephium hybrids) and aster (Symphyotrichum spp. and hybrids).

See Our Other 2026 Reader Garden Award Runner-Up Here!

Shade garden classics

Above, there’s a shade border that includes ferns, hostas (Hosta hybrids) and astilbes (Astilbe hybrids) edged with boxwood (Buxus hybrid) for a bit of formality that contrasts with the more casual border on the opposite side.

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A peaceful oasis

A small deck serves as the perfect perch to view this garden oasis and the wildlife that float and fly by. “Once seated, all cares and woes get thrown into the river, and a calm is felt immediately,” Teresa says.

Photos courtesy of Teresa Angotti

Thanks to Milwaukee^® Tool for providing a pruning tools package valued over $100 as our runner-up prize!

Enter your garden for a chance to be one of next year’s winners!

For details on entry guidelines for submitting your garden in the Garden Gate Reader Garden Award, click here.

See Our Previous Years’ Reader Garden Award Winners:

• 2025: The Giving Garden, Sue & Bob Olson of Minnesota
• 2024: Multiseason Beauty With Perennials & Flowering Trees
  
• 2023: Grand Garden Experiment
  
• 2022: Charming Southern Backyard Garden
  
• 2021: Beautiful Hillside Garden
  
• 2020: Urban Garden Retreat
  

With thousands of varieties available, choosing a dahlia (or three) for the garden each year can be an overwhelming task. But if you know which characteristics to look for, shopping gets a lot easier. All dahlias are cold hardy in zones 8 to 11 and grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. Find out what makes a dahlia right for these common garden situations, along with a few favorites that fit the bill.

Do You Love Dahlias?

Enter our Fall Sweepstakes for a chance to win a $100 gift card from Swan Island Dahlias!

4 Different Types of Dahlias

1. Best dahlias to grow mid-border

Not too tall and not too short, midsize varieties stand 2 to 4 feet tall, just right for filling mixed beds and borders. Blooming prolifically from midsummer through fall, these dahlias help bridge the gap between early- and late-season perennials.

• 'David Howard': Fully double 4-in. formal decorative apricot blooms, dark foliage; 30 to 40 in. tall
  
• 'Creme de Cassis': Bicolor violet and dark eggplant waterlily flowers measure 4 to 6 in. wide; 30 to 40 in. tall
  
• 'Fascination': Semidouble 4-in. peony-type hot pink flowers, dark foliage; 30 to 36 in. tall

Dahlia growing tip

To encourage bushy plants with plenty of buds, pinch dahlias when the central stalk has three to four sets of leaves.

2. Dahlias that make all-star cut flowers

What makes a great cutting dahlia? A lengthy vase life; long, sturdy stems; and upward-facing blooms that aren't too heavy. Ball and pompon dahlias have tightly packed petals that resist bruising and give them a particularly long post-harvest vase life.

• 'Cornel': Ruby red 4-in. ball-shaped flowers; 40 to 48 in. tall
  
• 'Maarn': Rusty orange 3- to 4-in. ball-shaped flowers; 48 to 54 in. tall
  
• 'Genova': Lavender and white ball-shaped flowers with dark central eyes measure 2 to 4 in. wide; 30 to 40 in. tall

Harvest tip

Harvest flowers when they are almost fully open and the petals are still firm; dahlias don't open much more after they've been cut.

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3. Dramatic dinnerplate dahlias

With extra-large flowers that measure upward of 8 inches in diameter, dinnerplate dahlias serve up major impact in the garden. Because of their size, you'll want to position dinnerplate varieties in a place where they won't overwhelm smaller, more delicate plants. These top-heavy flowers often need staking.

• 'Spartacus': Globe-shaped red flowers measure 9 to 10 in. wide; 50 to 60 in. tall
  
• 'Otto's Thrill' (in photo): Coral pink 10-in.-wide flowers; 36 to 48 in. tall
  
• 'Café au Lait': Lush 10-in. flowers range from blush pink to creamy ivory; 36 to 48 in. tall
  

Good to know

A wall, fence or hedgerow provides a natural windbreak and backdrop for dinnerplate dahlias' showstopping blooms.

4. Compact dahlias for containers

Compact varieties, including the ever-popular Melody^® and Gallery^® series that stay under 2 feet tall, are perfect for pots and planters. Choose a container that is at least 12 inches wide and deep — even short-statured dahlias produce an extensive root system that requires plenty of well-drained soil and room to grow.

• 'Gallery Art Deco': Multicolor coral, orange and red stellar flowers measure 4 to 5 in. wide; 16 to 24 in. tall
  
• 'Dracula': Bold red 3-in. daisy-like single flowers, dark foliage; 10 to 12 in. tall
  
• __'Park Princess': (in photo) — Clear pink cactus form with spiky, 4-in. flowers; 22 to 24 in. tall
  

Container tip

Containers typically dry out faster than in-ground beds. Aim to water planter-bound dahlias deeply every day or two during the hottest weeks of summer.

Dahlia sources

• Hudson Valley Seed Co.: hudsonvalleyseed.com — 845-204-8769
• Longfield Gardens: longfield-gardens.com — 855-534-2733
• Swan Island Dahlias: dahlias.com — 800-410-6540

Montauk Daisy

Nipponanthemum nipponicum

Type: Perennial
Blooms: White flowers with a yellow center summer to frost
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Pests: None serious
Size: 18 to 36 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

Montauk Daisy Will Refresh Your Fall Border

Tired of garden mums for your fall combos? Give Montauk daisy a try. This underused perennial is covered in 2- to 3-inch white flowers from summer to frost, makes a great cut flower and has saw-tooth leaves that add texture to the garden until it blooms. Paired with 'Rozanne' geranium, it provides a cheerful greeting along this path to the front door.

How to grow Montauk daisy

Montauk daisy grows best in full sun but can tolerate part shade. It does need a spot with well-drained soil. Let the plant dry out between waterings to avoid rot — Montauk daisy is quite drought tolerant.

You might think that with all those flowers you'd have to feed Montauk daisy a lot, but not so. You can add a shovelful of compost or some slow-release fertilizer in spring but it's not essential.

Keep Montauk daisy looking good

There is a chance your Montauk daisy stems will flop as they grow taller, especially if the plant grows to its maximum height of 3 feet. You can use a hoop stake to keep it upright if having that height midborder is important to you. Or avoid those flopping stems by cutting them back by a third in early summer. This encourages branching, which means more flowers and a more mounded habit.

Dividing plants every 3 to 4 years is a good idea to keep Montauk daisy vigorous and flowering well. To do this, dig the plant out of the ground, split it into several pieces and replant the new divisions at the same level they were growing in the soil. Or pot some up to share with friends.

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Where to plant Montauk daisy

With loads of those sweet flowers and the attractive, pest-free foliage, Montauk daisy is a no-brainer for just about any spot that needs color or texture — the front door, next to the patio or even in containers. Check out the list below for a planting that provides you with lots of color and interest all season and will help a few pollinators, too!

What to plant with Montauk daisy

This easy-care group of late-season flowers will provide a one-stop buffet for migrating butterflies, and the salvia is a hummingbird favorite, too. Deadheading the salvia and sunflower keeps things tidy and the flowers going.

A) Montauk Daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum)
Perennial; white flowers with a yellow center summer to frost; full sun; 18 to 36 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

B) Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum 'Gunsmoke')
Perennial; tan flowers in midsummer, blue-green foliage; full sun; 48 to 54 in. tall, 36 to 42 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

C) Salvia (Salvia 'Mystic Spires')
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); blue-violet spikes from late spring to frost; full sun; 18 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10

D) False sunflower (Heliopsis helianthoides var. scabra 'Summer Sun')
Perennial; semidouble yellow blooms in mid- to late summer; full sun; 24 to 36 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

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The Arrival of the Chimney Swift

Chimney swifts. In April they come, in October they go, and in between, from dawn to dusk, their chittering, twittering calls fill the sky. I hear them everywhere in Nashville: in the city, the suburbs, the parks, the parking lots and right this minute from my porch, even though a succession of lawn mowers and pesticide foggers is roaring through one little front yard after another. The birds fly so fast that sometimes I look up and they're already out of sight.

Chimney swifts flew unheard and unseen every year of my life until a naturalist pointed them out on a hike. "They look like flying cigars," she said and then told me I would never see what they looked like when they weren't flying. Because they are always flying. Chimney swifts eat, drink, bathe, court and mate in the air, and can even sleep while flying. They only land when they nest and roost, but this happens in private: inside an uncapped chimney, for example.

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Where Do Chimney Swifts Live?

Chimney swifts nested in North America millions of years before humans even thought about bricks, so why do they need chimneys? Because their hollow trees are gone. Masonry chimneys have rough, vertical surfaces that swift feet can grab—they can't "perch" like other birds. Their nests, little half-saucers made of twigs glued together with saliva, can stick to this surface as well. So in spring, chimneys are single-family housing, and in summer and fall are hotels where birds gather to roost before they fly to winter homes in the Amazon Basin.

Swift Decline

In the last 50 years, chimney swift numbers have dropped by more than half, and the decline is accelerating. Habitat loss is the short answer as to why, and this includes a loss of insect prey and of chimneys. Gardeners are uniquely poised to support chimney swift populations, keep reading to learn about 6 simple ways to support them.

My chimney is capped, as per every home inspection ever. Daily walks show me that other chimneys are capped too, and that new homes don't have chimneys at all. Some heroic bird-lovers uncover their chimneys for the swifts, then tidy and re-cap for winter, and I wish I could say I was one of them. Other housing options are DIY towers and faux chimneys good for public spaces. Ideally, there's a protected barn, silo, vent pipe or industrial chimney nearby where swifts can gather at night to swirl by the thousands in an unforgettable display known as a bird tornado.

But even a regular chimney can be a game-changing spectacle for people, and a lifesaver for birds.

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A Chimney Swift Sighting

A few Septembers ago, my family and I were on the sidewalk at sunset, waiting to cross the street to get home. About two dozen chimney swifts were circling high above our sugar maple. Where would they spend the night? For years, I had wondered where neighborhood swifts slept. All day, above every street, they'd be wheeling and chattering, gobbling every insect within reach, and then, poof! Gone. Which neighbor had an uncapped chimney and either didn't know or didn't mind that it made new birds in spring and hosted slumber parties all summer?

Right then, one bird broke from the circle and fell. It didn’t slow down, but simply dropped from the sky, flapping and falling headfirst into our next-door neighbor’s chimney. “Y’all, I could swear that bird dropped down the chimney,” I said to no one who believed it, and I wasn’t sure I believed it myself. So while everyone else went inside, I stayed in the driveway to stand and wait and watch under the darkening sky until I saw every bird peel off from the party to flutter and fall, one at a time, into bed.

6 Ways to Garden for Chimney Swifts (and all Birds)

1. Add native plants. Learn which plants are native to your zip code at audubon.org/native-plants or check with your local extension agency.
2. Mow high and less often. Taller grass supports more insects, which in turn, feed more birds.
3. Skip pesticides and herbicides. Most chemical-based controls persist in the soil and water for years.
4. Leave some leaves. A free source of soil-enriching nutrients, rotting leaves are an important place for birds to forage.
5. Make a brush pile. Even a small brush pile can provide shelter and foraging for wrens, nuthatches and other birds.
6. Turn off unnecessary nighttime lighting during spring and fall migration. Birds find artificial lights disorienting, leading to more collisions.

Learn more about chimney swifts at U.S. Fish and Wildlife website: fws.gov/story/chimney-swifts

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Joanna, author of "This Is How a Robin Drinks: Essays on Urban Nature," writes about everyday wonders in everyday habitat loss on Instagram @jo_brichetto and at SidewalkNature.com.

Fall Container Packed with Texture and Interest

Fall is full of shades of orange, so have some fun with complementary hues of blue. Thick, milky blue kale leaves, bright cobalt plumbago flowers and navy-toned bluestem grass create a cool combination that makes the classic orange mums and pumpkins pop. This large container planting is anchored by a small arborvitae shrub, creating a thriller and backdrop for the colorful blooms in the planting.

Layer on the succulent, cool-toned sedum for even more depth of color. Finish it off with thick-leaved livingstone daisy that spills over the edge. These tough plants manage just fine if you skip a day of watering. The coneflower might be the first to fade, but it’ll leave behind interesting seedheads for additional texture. The resin container is lightweight and weather resistant.

Put perennials to work in containers and in the garden

Perennials (and a shrub) pack this container, but it’s a good investment because you can plant them in the garden in fall to enjoy next year!

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Fall container plant list

A) Little bluestemSchizachyrium scoparium Blue Heaven^®
Perennial; leaves emerge blue with a pink hue in summer and copper color in fall; full sun; 24 to 48 in. tall, 18 to 40 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

B) ArborvitaeThuja occidentalis ‘American Pillar’
Tree; dense evergreen leaves grow in a columnar shape; full sun to part shade; 25 to 30 ft. tall, 3 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

C) ConeflowerEchinacea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’
Perennial; flowers bloom in orange, red, golden yellow, cream and purple shades summer to fall; full sun to part shade; 22 to 30 in. tall, 18 to 28 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

D) Tall sedumHylotelephium ‘Autumn Fire’
Perennial; flowers bloom pink and age to brick red in late summer through fall; full sun; 1 to 2 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

E) Ornamental kaleBrassica oleracea ‘Osaka White’
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); big, frosty green leaves with white new growth; full sun to part shade; 8 to 12 in. tall, 10 to 15 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11

F) Garden mumChrysanthemum hybrid
Perennial; orange flowers from late summer through fall; full sun; 12 to 36 in. tall, 15 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) Tall sedumHylotelephium telephium ‘Cherry Truffle’
Perennial; large pink flowers above purple foliage late summer through fall; full sun; 18 to 24 in. tall, 24 to 30 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

H) PlumbagoCeratostigma plumbaginoides
Perennial; bright blue flowers from midsummer to fall; full sun to part shade; 8 to 12 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

I) Livingstone daisyDorotheanthus bellidiformis Mezoo^™ Trailing Red
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); small red flowers bloom in spring and summer; full sun to part shade; 8 to 10 in. tall, 10 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

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