Agastache for Deer-Resistant, Drought-Tolerant Gardens in Every Region

When you want a border buzzing with bees, bursting with butterflies and humming with hummingbirds, agastache (Agastache spp. and hybrids) is a great choice. Besides getting lots of love from pollinators, this amazing perennial has fragrant foliage topped by long-lasting blooms and takes hot dry spells in stride. Plus, deer and rabbits leave it alone, and it’s rarely bothered by insect pests or disease.

Agastache comes in many shapes and sizes (and names!)

There are 22 species of agastache — most native to North America and Mexico — and numerous hybrids that all grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. What sets most agastache species and their hybrids apart is the soil they grow in. Those with roots in the Southwest United States and Mexico, such as licorice mint or Texas hummingbird mint, do best where the soil is lean and sharply drained.

Anise hyssop, a native to the Great Plains, or Korean mint from Asia thrive in richer soil with more organic matter and moisture. But all types of agastache will rot if the soil is consistently wet or soggy.

Common names vary and sometimes even overlap, but I’ll call the Southwest types hummingbird mint and the prairie types hyssop. Whatever the name, this practically perfect perennial has a lot to offer.

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Regional advice for growing agastache

Full sun and well-drained soil are a must for growing great agastache anywhere you garden, but different regions have different dilemmas. I talked with four experts who navigate the same growing challenges as home gardeners, and they shared their tips for growing beautiful plants along with a few varieties that have performed especially well. 

Growing agastache in the Midwest

Expert: Richard Hawke | Director of Ornamental Plant Research, Chicago Botanic Garden, IL

Summers are hot and humid in Chicago, and soils can range from rich and loamy to dense clay. Because Chicago Botanic Garden is so close to Lake Michigan, there can be lots of snow and strong winds to accompany the cold temperatures.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: There’s no need to feed agastache in the ground or in pots — they flower well without it.
• Mulch: Border plants get mulched in spring with a custom blend made from garden debris that has a leafy texture with no big chunks.
• Maintenance: Hyssop types handle the growing conditions at the Chicago Botanic Garden with ease and can sometimes even reseed. ‘Golden Jubilee’ can be extra generous so may need deadheading if you don’t want more plants.
• Beware of rot: The denser soil and wet winters can cause the roots and crowns of hummingbird mint to rot in borders. However, Richard has noticed that some newer varieties have better survival rates. Planting in containers is also a good alternative. Many are compact and bloom continuously without deadheading, almost like an annual.
• Plant trials: With all the new introductions, Richard is working on a plant trial of 48 hummingbird mint varieties to see how quickly they bulk up and bloom in one season. Results should be released in 2028.

Top agastache varieties for the Midwest

• ‘Rosie Posie’ A. hybrid
  Returned for several years in borders around the garden
• ‘Queen Nectarine’ A. hybrid
  Plants grew to 3 feet tall in one year
• ‘Purple Haze’ A. hybrid
  Has longer, more graceful flowers than others

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Growing agastache in the Southwest

Expert: Linda Churchill | Director of Horticulture, Santa Fe Botanical Garden, NM

Close to the Rocky Mountains, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden sits at 7,200 feet in elevation with a growing season from early May to October. The climate is generally hot and dry, though the garden’s location has a colder microclimate. The soil tends to be alkaline with a high mineral content and varying depths of caliche, a claylike soil that’s as hard as concrete.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Linda grows a lot of hummingbird mints in containers at home and does use a balanced liquid plant food, such as Miracle-Gro^®, since she’s often watering daily in summer and nutrients are quick to wash away.
• Mulch: Cramming plants together in the border works a lot like mulch, helping keep weeds down and conserving moisture. But hummingbird mint doesn’t like humidity, so Linda and her staff keep an eye out for fungus or mold that could develop. They sometimes mulch with gravel but don’t need much — an inch or so is just fine.
• Maintenance: Linda finds that plants come through winter better if you leave the dead stems in place to provide some protection for the crown.

Top agastache picks for the Southwest

• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Reseeds gracefully
• Texas hummingbird mint A. cana
  This variety gets taller than many others
• Desert Sunrise^®A. hybrid
  Needs slightly more water than others

Growing agastache in the Mountain West

Expert: Bridget Blomquist | Associate Director of Horticulture, Denver Botanic Gardens, CO

With over 300 days of sunshine on average in the Denver area, there’s never any worry about plants not getting enough light. Summers are hot and dry with cool nights, and winter is mild but can get quite snowy with high winds.

Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies are always on the agastache, but the hummers are a favorite. Bridget loves watching them dive-bomb, tussle and whistle at each other, as they argue over who gets to feed from which bloom.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Because these plants do best in lean soil, she hasn’t found the need to fertilize.
• Mulch: Squeegee is the mulch of choice for agastache at the Denver Botanic Gardens. It’s smaller and more angular than pea gravel and helps keep the border well drained. It provides that western garden look and doesn’t blow around in the wind. In addition, the smaller rock makes it easier to pull weeds.
• Maintenance: Bridget deadheads the hyssop types because they reseed prolifically in the borders but hasn’t found the need to deadhead hummingbird mint. Plants come through winter easily except when they’re in a spot where the snow is piled. Those tend to die — likely due to winter wet.

Top agastache picks for the Mountain West

• ‘Ava’ A. hybrid
  Blooms a bit later than others so extends the season
• Kudos series A. hybrid
  Smaller plants are good for rock gardens
• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Two-toned orange flowers with purple calyxes are a great contrast to silvery foliage

Growing Agastache in the South

Expert: Sandra Begani | UGA Trial Garden Manager, University of Georgia Trial Gardens, GA

Even with hot, humid summers that are regularly in the 90s and sporadic rainstorms followed by long dry periods, hummingbird mint has been a great performer for Sandra at the trial garden in Athens, Georgia. Even better, while deer regularly munch on other plants, they leave hummingbird mint alone.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Georgia’s red clay soil is a well-known challenge for gardeners in that area and is probably why plants tend to be short-lived. To make sure the agastaches grow and bloom happily, Sandra and her team till compost and granular fertilizer into the flower beds.
• Mulch: Easy-to-find pine straw mulch is applied annually to help conserve moisture, prevent erosion and keep the weeds down. That’s a big help because hummingbird mint attracts so many bees that weeding can be difficult at certain times of the day.
• Maintenance: These are dry-loving plants but if there hasn’t been any rain all week, she’ll make sure plants get a deep watering so their growth and blooming don’t suffer.

Top agastache picks for the South

• Poquito Butter Yellow A. hybrid
  Lots of yellow flowers and compact habit
• Maestro^™ Gold A. hybrid
  Heat resistant and flowered all summer
• Summerlong Lilac A. mexicana
  Season-long color and tolerates dry conditions

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The garden is the home’s largest consumer of water. So, as a savvy gardener, water conservation — no matter where you live — should be a concern. A well-designed, water-wise landscape that incorporates water-saving devices and techniques can still be a lush and inviting space without wasting water.

Here are a handful of water-smart garden hacks that will get you through the summer with minimal irrigation — and are guaranteed to make your life easier. Each of these tips is sure to save time (by watering more efficiently), money (on monthly water bills and maintenance) and, of course, our precious water.

1. Choose the right watering tool for the job

Most everyone knows it’s best to water early in the day (to prevent unnecessary evaporation). But there are all kinds of simple ways to water more effectively. And often, it’s just a matter of having the right tool for the job, whether it's a good-sized watering can, the right hose attachment, a generous soaker hose or a timer to make watering more efficient.

A large, lightweight watering can — 2- to 3-gallon capacity, if you can carry it — will allow you to spot-water thirsty plants and smaller containers without dragging a hose around and splashing water.

High-quality hose attachments like extendable watering wands can help get water to hard-to-reach hanging baskets, into large containers and deep raised garden beds.

Soaker hoses are the simplest way to water specific spots. There’s no waste when the water goes right into the soil where you need it without spraying. Plus less moisture on plant leaves means less susceptibility to fungal diseases.

An irrigation timer and drip irrigation system deliver a slow, steady supply of water right when and where it’s needed. You can set up a simple system for watering plants in containers, raised beds, trees and shrubs. The easiest way to begin is with just a timer and a soaker hose.

For larger jobs, consider a drip irrigation kit, which comes with tubing, emitters, fittings to connect hoses and hold-down stakes to keep the tubing in place in the ground. Keep in mind that drip irrigation is not a set-and-forget-it solution: You’ll want to check your system regularly to be sure the emitters are not clogged and that rodents haven’t caused damage.

Use a water timer wisely

Use an irrigation timer to turn off the water. It’s easy to forget that the hose is running or that the drip system is turned on. A timer prevents accidental and wasteful overwatering by customizing when to water and for how long. Besides frequency and duration, you can adjust the timer based on future temperatures and weather forecasts. Smart water timers can adjust to the weather and water based on site conditions.

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2. Use permeable paving

Ditch the poured concrete and consider other options that allow rainwater to percolate below the surface and reach the soil. There are three options to consider: permeable, porous and pervious pavers. Each possesses certain physical and aesthetic attributes that need to be considered before beginning a project.

Permeable pavers are composed of a layer of concrete or brick. The pavers are separated by joints filled with crushed stone. These are different from pervious and porous pavers in that rainwater passes around the paver as opposed to through it.

Porous pavers generally are a grid system filled with soil, sand or gravel. This system allows for grass reinforcement and ground stabilization. Concrete turf block for grass paving began in the mid-1940s, and plastic versions were introduced in the 1970s and 80s. Porous pavers are manufactured in a variety of designs and materials, including plastic and concrete. Concrete turf block for grass paving reduces compaction of the soil to maintain permeability, while the roots improve water filtration.

Pervious pavers allow stormwater to percolate through the surface rather than running off into surrounding areas or storm drains. As water runs through, the pavers filter out pollutants. Like grass, pervious pavers — manufactured from natural stone and organic polymers — allow the ground below to breathe.

3. Harvest & save rainwater with a rain barrel

Rainwater harvesting can be as simple as installing a rain barrel under a gutter coming off a roof. It can be expanded to include a cistern to handle overflow. The only thing that differs between the two is the scale of the system. They both follow the same principles. A large system just captures water from more than one source.

There are a variety of commercially available rain barrels in a wide range of sizes, shapes and styles. Most have a 100-gallon capacity, but larger versions (up to 500 gallons) are available. Look for one with an overflow valve (it kicks in when the barrel reaches capacity) and a mesh screen filter to keep out residue.

Remember, a rain barrel will be outside during all sorts of weather, from baking sun to thunderstorms to freezing ice and snow. Heavy-duty molded plastics, such as resin, can withstand the elements and won’t crack, peel or rot. Find out how to make one from a heavy duty trash can like you see in the photo above with these simple instructions: DIY Rain Barrel Project.

What size rain barrel do I need?

1 inch of rain falling on 1,000 square feet of roof yields 623 gallons of water
Following this formula, a 500-gallon rain barrel will capture most of a typical rainfall.

Using cisterns to store rainwater

Cisterns hold a higher volume of water and are a good choice for climates with infrequent rainfall. A house, garage and outbuildings can all feed into a single large (underground) cistern. Cisterns are, of course, more expensive, and keep in mind that the storage tanks must be placed next to the house, whether they are above or below ground.

To use a cistern, it helps to calculate the total amount of rainwater you can collect year-round. To do this, you need to know the annual rainfall for your region. For annual precipitation rates of the United States, visit www.ncei.noaa.gov/ access/us-climate-normals/

Check local regulations before installing a rain barrel

Certain states have regulations around use of rain barrels; be sure to check local ordinances before you get started.

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Grow a mosaic of foliage in shade

Despite having almost no flowers, this combination is loaded with color and variety. The white-splashed foliage of Chinese fairy bells anchors both sides of the bed, while flashes of chartreuse offer continuity. At the same time, broad hosta leaves, fernlike dog fennel and fine-bladed hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass come together to create a collage of texture.
These plants grow best in part to full shade and evenly moist conditions.

Growing tips

Chinese fairy bells and Chinese wild ginger spread by rhizomes, while hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass form clumps that slowly expand. Let them grow together in a seamless carpet of ground covers that will inhibit weeds while keeping each other’s growth in check. In spring, trim out winter-damaged foliage or shear off at ground level.

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Foliage-focused shade garden plant list

A) Chinese fairy bellsDisporum cantoniense ‘Moonlight’
Perennial; white flower clusters in late spring to early summer above stems of small variegated green leaves streaked white with a pink blush; part to full shade; 18 to 24 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

B) HostaHosta ‘Brother Stefan’
Perennial; white flower spikes in late spring to early summer over puckered green leaves with golden yellow centers; part to full shade; 20 to 22 in. tall, 24 in. tall in bloom, 30 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

C) Chinese wild gingerAsarum splendens
Perennial; inconspicuous purple flowers in early spring are hidden around the base of showy, heart-shaped silver-splashed leaves; part to full shade; 6 to 9 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

D) HakonechloaHakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’  
Perennial; yellow-green flowers age to tan in midsummer atop grassy, bright chartreuse foliage; part to full shade; 12 to 18 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

E) Dog fennelEupatorium capillifolium ‘Elegant Feather’ 
Perennial; sterile, insignificant white fall flowers top feathery green foliage that turns red before frost; full sun to part shade; 3 to 6 ft. tall, 1 to 3 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9

F) Taiwan mondo grassOphiopogon formosanus
Perennial; white flowers in summer followed by blue fruit over light green grassy foliage; part to full shade; 4 to 6 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

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Hosta-filled perennial shade garden

Enjoy beautiful variegation and a touch of color in this perennial planting layout for part to full shade. A variegated weigela adds standout foliage, while a mix of hosta varieties brings layers of texture, color and contrast. Unique cultivars of shade garden favorites that pollinators will love too are also featured.

Tips for designing a shade garden bed full of texture

Large, broad-leaved hostas form a solid background that makes a statement in this shady bed. For contrast, finer-textured ‘My Monet’ weigela’s pink spring blooms and blushing variegated foliage highlight the front of the bed. Native spigelia lends a pop of bright red that appeals to hummingbirds.

Showcase small hostas by planting them in containers. Tiny ‘Winsome’ is tucked into this bed in a tall, slender container, which raises it up so it is easier to see, while ‘Frosted Mouse Ears’ dwarf hosta catches attention in a low hypertufa container in front.

Care tips

To prevent scorching on the leaves in this combination, choose a spot with afternoon shade and keep the soil evenly moist. Cut back dead perennial foliage in early spring as new growth begins to appear. Remove any damaged weigela branches before the plant leafs out, but hold off on pruning until after it blooms. Pruning too early can remove flower buds, as weigela forms next spring’s blooms on the current season’s growth.

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Perennial shade garden bed plant list

A) HostaHosta ‘Lakeside Cupid’s Cup’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in midsummer on blue-green corrugated leaves with a cream edge; part to full shade; 12 to 14 in. tall, 30 to 42 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

B) HostaHosta ‘Winsome’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in summer above dark green leaves with white edges; part to full shade; 3 to 8 in. tall, 16 to 18 in. tall in bloom, 15 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

C) SpigeliaSpigelia marilandica
Perennial; tubular red flowers open yellow on the inside in early summer atop glossy green leaves; part to full shade; 12 to 24 in. tall, 6 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

D) HostaHosta ‘Sum and Substance’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in late summer above large corrugated chartreuse leaves; part to full shade; 2 to 3 ft. tall, 4 ft. tall in bloom, 3 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

E) WeigelaWeigela florida My Monet^®
Shrub; pink flowers in early to late spring on variegated pink-tinged leaves; full sun to part shade; 12 to 18 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 6

F) FoamflowerTiarella ‘Starfish’ 
Perennial; pale pink flowers in late spring rise from clumps of green leaves with dark veining; part to full shade; 8 in. tall, 13 in. tall in flower, 13 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) HostaHosta ‘Frosted Mouse Ears’ 
Perennial; trumpet-shaped lavender flowers in early summer on petite clumps of rounded leaves with blue-green centers and white edges; part to full shade; 4 to 7 in. tall, 6 to 12 in. tall in bloom, 14 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

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White is such a versatile color. It can look fresh and clean, or cool and classy. Gardens will look that way, too, dressed up in white. Choose a few white flowers for your garden, and they will reflect whatever style you want, from casual cottage gardens to formal style.

Consider both cool and warm shades of white

But which white will you use? A white with blue undertones can look ice cold, but you can use that to your advantage in a combo that includes blue or purple flowers. Grow them near a warm patio to help create a cool and relaxed feeling. Pair warmer creamy whites with reds and yellows to tone down the more intense colors. Can’t decide which white flower you like best? No problem — use them all! An all-white garden has an elegant style that’s hard to beat.

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How to use white flowers in your garden

Concerned that white will look too stark in your bright-colored garden? If you set a white cosmos next to a red rose, you might be surprised to see that the cosmos has a hint of pale pink. That’s because many whites reflect the color nearby. So don’t count white out — it has a way of fitting in almost anywhere.

White always seems to look best in the shade of evening or morning’s early glow. So I have white flowers in a spot where the rising sun peeks in between the neighbor’s houses. They catch and hold that golden light as I’m enjoying my morning coffee. On the other hand, afternoon light is usually a little intense. It can make white overly bright or wash it out so you can’t make out the details.

8 of Our Favorite White Flowers

I’ve gathered a few of my favorite white flowers for cutting gardens and mixed borders. There are annuals and perennials for sun and shade, as well as a tree and a gorgeous clematis. By now you probably have a few ideas about where to grow white flowers, so let’s take a look at some plants you might want to use.

Sparkler White spider flower (Cleome hassleriana)

Sparkler^™ White above has big 4- to 6-inch flowers of pure white. The name is perfect. A large group of this cultivar can really sparkle in the late-day or early-morning sun. Plant a drift of white flowers — it’s quite noticeable from a distance. Sparkler White is a choice cultivar for calling attention to the back border of a large yard.

Direct sow spider flower in spring and it will bloom the same year. It does reseed easily, though. And if you have the more common pink-and-white variety nearby, next year’s plants won’t all be white. You can prevent reseeding by snipping off the bean-like seedpods that form under the flower.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Early summer to frost
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 36 to 48 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

BabyWing White begonia (Begonia hybrid)

Petite BabyWing^™ White begonia is a great space-saver. In addition, it’s low-maintenance and tolerant of a wide range of conditions, including periods of drought, shady spots and even the hot metal urn this plant is growing in. Begonias do better when the potting mix dries out between waterings. Too much water and the plants will rot.

Because the crisp white begonia flowers have thick petals and a waxy texture, they’re great at reflecting light. You can see what a strong contrast the white is against the black urn. That helps to create the elegant, formal feel.

Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Spring to frost
Light: Part sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 12 to 15 in tall, 10 to 12 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

‘Sonata White’ cosmos (Cosmos bipinnatus)

Looking for an easy-to-grow cut flower to add to your garden? Check out the seed rack at your favorite garden center and grab a few packets of ‘Sonata White’ cosmos. Start plants from seed and they’ll flower from early summer until frost the first year.

Once it’s blooming, butterflies are sure to visit, flitting around the 3-inch flowers. Don’t forget to cut a few for yourself, too. It’s great in bouquets. Inside or out, those papery thin petals look lovely with sunlight filtering through. Pair cosmos with heavier-looking zinnias to brighten up the combo.

Type: Annual
Blooms: Early summer to frost
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained to poor
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 15 in. wide

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‘Black Negligee’ bugbane (Actaea simplex)

Need some height in your shade garden? Try stately ‘Black Negligee’ bugbane. White bottlebrush flowers can get up to 24 inches long and are quite fragrant. Though plants do well in shade, they need some sun to get the darkest foliage. And you’re going to want it. The darker the leaves, the better they highlight the white flowers. Besides that, deep shade causes flower stalks to lean toward the light and need staking to stay upright. Growing plants under a high-limbed tree is usually your best bet. Slow-growing bugbane needs consistent moisture and rich organic soil to look good.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Late summer to fall
Light: Part to full shade
Soil: Moist, well-drained
Size: 4 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

‘Fama White’ pincushion flower (Scabiosa caucasica)

The big 3- to 4-inch blooms of ‘Fama White’ pincushion flower bobbing in the breeze are a classic summer image. Add the butterflies that flutter in and you have a picture-perfect garden! If you grow flowers, bouquets can’t be far from your mind. Cut a few to take inside — they last up to a week. Long stems grow over a low mound of foliage, so they’re easy to cut.

This plant is more than just a pretty flower, though. It’s deer resistant and drought tolerant, too. Combine 'Fama White' with oranges, yellows and reds to keep hot colors from looking too intense.

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 20 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 10

‘Snow Queen’ clematis (Clematis hybrid)

This clematis is an old favorite for good reason. Those 6- to 7-inch white flowers with red-purple anthers attract a lot of attention. Grow it on a trellis, an obelisk or even in a container. New spring flowers open with a slight pink or blue tint that fades quickly to white. ‘Snow Queen’ is at its showiest early in the season but there’s a second, smaller flush in late summer.

Pruning is simple

As this variety blooms on old wood in spring and new growth in summer, just cut back any broken or dead branches before it blooms. If needed, thin the vines after they bloom to keep it from looking wild.

Type: Vine
Blooms: Late spring and late summer
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained
Size: 6 to 10 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

Fothergilla (Fothergilla major)

Fragrant, creamy white bottlebrush blooms of fothergilla are charming in early spring. Then summer brings leathery blue-green foliage that turns red, yellow and orange, often all on the same leaf, in fall. You can see it in the inset photo.

Get more flowers

The flowers bloom at the tips of the branches, so you can simply deadhead them. But if you cut back to a leaf joint, your fothergilla will reward you with more flowers in midspring. As a bonus, this pruning encourages a fuller, bushier growth habit.

Type: Shrub
Blooms: 2- to 3-in.-long bottlebrush white flowers in early spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Evenly moist, well-drained soil that’s acid to neutral
Size: 6 to 10 ft. tall, 6 to 8 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

Kousa dogwood (Cornus kousa)

Kousa dogwood flowers bring out plant envy in everyone who sees them. And it’s an understory tree, so even if you have an established tree, you can still grow a Kousa dogwood. The 3- to 5-inch white pointed flowers will go a long way toward brightening up a yard that has some shade. Those “petals” are actually bracts — a modified leaf — and the flowers, which butterflies like a lot, by the way, are in the center. In its younger years, Kousa dogwood has a vase-shaped habit. As it ages, it develops a more rounded look.

Type: Tree
Blooms: Late spring
Light: Full sun to part shade
Soil: Well-drained to sandy
Size: 15 to 30 ft. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 8

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When designing a perennial border, keep in mind each plant's growth habit, branching pattern, and leaf shape. Large, solid leaves command attention and visually make a space seem smaller. In contrast, fine, delicate foliage seems to recede, creating a more open, spacious feeling. Grassy or swordlike blades add striking vertical lines.

When combined, this patchwork of varied plant shapes gives a garden depth as light and shadow play across the greenery. A garden with great texture is eye-catching, even when no flowers are in bloom. Explore the plants and design details behind this sunny perennial border created by Kansas gardener Joyce Householder.

Love this garden? Read the full feature!

Create a terraced landscape to showcase perennials

Terracing on this slope helps to slow rainwater runoff and control erosion in Joyce's garden. The added benefit is a better view of the gorgeous assortment of perennials that grow here in full sun, shown above in late spring. Although flowers come and go through spring and summer, the constant is the contrast between the strappy bearded iris foliage, velvety Russian sage leaves and solid mounds of false indigo.

Plant care tips

• To encourage a light rebloom, cut back salvia, spike speedwell, bearded penstemon and catmint after the first flush of flowers fade.
• Snip faded iris blossoms to keep the plant tidy, but let spent false indigo flowers form black seed pods that look intriguing through fall and winter.

Fall cleanup

• Most of these perennials die back to the ground in winter, so cut off dead foliage in late fall after a frost or in early spring as new growth begins.
• Russian sage stems can stay standing all winter to provide structure. It’s semi-evergreen in warmer hardiness zones. In colder zones where it dies back, trim to 8 to 12 inches tall in spring as new leaves emerge near the base.

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Sunny perennial border plant list

A) Salvia (Salvia nemorosa ‘Caradonna’)
Perennial; deep blue-violet flower spikes from early summer through fall above mounds of rough leaves; full sun; 18 to 20 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

B) Speedwell (Veronica ‘Lavender Lightsaber’)
Perennial; lavender flower spikes in early to midsummer rise above clumps of medium green foliage; full sun; 28 to 30 in. tall, 18 to 20 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

C) False indigo (Baptisia ‘Sparkling Sapphires’)
Perennial; violet-blue flowers in late spring to early summer on upright, blue-green foliage; full sun to part shade; 30 to 36 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

D) Bearded penstemon (Penstemon barbatus ‘Jingle Bells’)
Perennial; red-orange tubular flowers on long stems from late spring to early summer above clumps of basal foliage; full sun; 18 to 36 in. tall, 12 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

E) Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)
Perennial; tiny lavender-blue flowers line tall stems of silver, fernlike foliage from mid- to late summer; full sun; 2 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 4 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

F) Lanceleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis lanceolata)
Perennial; yellow daisies on long, thin stems from late spring to early summer stretch above a rosette of narrow, lobed leaves; full sun; 12 to 18 in. tall, 15 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) Bearded iris (Iris ‘Obsidian’)
Perennial; deep purple to black flowers in mid- to late spring above swordlike leaves; full sun to part shade; 30 to 33 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

H) Catmint (Nepeta faassenii ‘Cat’s Meow’)
Perennial; blue-purple flowers in late spring to early summer on mounds of dusky green foliage; full sun to part shade; 17 to 20 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

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Tips for creating a shade garden oasis

When Joyce Hannaford and her husband, Charlie, moved into their Massachusetts home 23 years ago, there wasn’t much there — Joyce felt like they were living in a fishbowl on their corner lot. So they added a privacy fence and planted lots of trees around the yard. It took some time, but now they have a sheltered place just outside their back door to eat dinner with friends or just relax alone.

Joyce has two brick patios connected by stone steps. The organic shape and color of the stone repeats the color and texture of the nearby raised beds and adds variety to all the bricks. Joyce calls the small patio with blue chairs the cocktail patio and the larger one the dining patio. Both are surrounded by lush shade-tolerant plantings.

Want to watch a tour of the entire garden? Check out the video above or watch the Talk & Tour on our YouTube channel here.

Manage trees

After 18 years, the roots of the multistemmed river birch next to the patio were pushing up the stone edging and the patio bricks. Plus the canopy had filled in and changed the area from dappled to dense shade. Joyce tried making adjustments to the border and carefully working around the main roots, but it just got too difficult to grow anything. So, reluctantly, she had it removed.

Adjusting to changing light conditions

The first year, the hakonechloa, ferns, hostas and other shade plants developed crispy leaf edges and looked a little faded in the extra sunlight. But the next season they bounced back, and with a little more light, it was easier to grow impatiens and other flowering plants that do best with a bit of light from morning sun or dappled shade.

Shade creates privacy

With a fence along the property line, trees screening the view of other nearby neighbors and layers of shrubs and perennials to muffle any sounds, this shady patio has a cozy, intimate feel.

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Enjoy the advantages of shade gardening

Joyce has discovered one big plus to gardening in shade — it’s a lot easier to move plants. The sun isn’t harsh, and the temperature here is a bit cooler. So if a plant isn’t doing well in an area, she moves it in the morning, waters a bit more than the other plants, and it settles in quickly.

Add a water feature

This stone recirculating fountain sits next to the dining patio and is surrounded by a collection of texture-rich shade perennials. Adding a water feature to this part of the garden provides both a focal point for the dining area and a source of soothing sound. Flowing water makes sitting in shade even more relaxing and helps mask sounds from nearby neighbors.

Winter care for outdoor water features

In her USDA zone 6 garden, Joyce has to drain the basin and put a stone cap on top of the fountain to prevent snow and debris from collecting there. Most winters she tops it off with a container full of greenery and colorful stems to create an enjoyable view from inside her warm home.

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Nothing makes a gardener’s stomach drop quite like walking out to water one morning, only to find the leaves on the plants you worked so hard to grow are wilting and yellow — or worse. While it certainly feels like garden infestations pop up overnight, more often than not, they build slowly as well-intentioned gardening habits create an environment tailor-made for unwelcome pests and pathogens.

Without realizing it, even seasoned gardeners can create the perfect storm of shelter, excess moisture, stressed plants and predictable food sources that draw pests in like a moth (larvae) to a — well, you get it.

The good news? Small changes in how you care for your plants can keep your garden from becoming a bug-and-bacteria buffet. Here are five common mistakes to avoid, along with easy fixes. 

5 Common Gardening Mistakes That Attract Pests

1. Using too much — or too little — mulch in the garden

Mulch is the underappreciated workhorse of the garden. When applied correctly, it conserves moisture, moderates soil temperature, suppresses weeds and helps reduce the spread of disease.

Avoid these common mulching mistakes

However, misapplying mulch can create a host of problems. For example, excess mulch can trap moisture and create ideal habitats for slugs, fungi and rot — especially when piled against stems or trunks. “Mulch volcanoes” are a common culprit, as are heavy mulch layers around moisture-loving plants like hostas (Hosta spp. and hybrids).

Too little mulch can also stress plants by creating uneven moisture levels in the soil and allowing weeds to compete for water and nutrients.

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2. Watering plants at night

Evening watering often means foliage and turf stay wet overnight, creating ideal conditions for fungal diseases and some insects. Lawns are especially susceptible — diseases such as brown patch and dollar spot thrive with too much moisture.

Ornamentals aren’t immune, either. Prolonged leaf wetness can lead to powdery mildew, leaf spot diseases, root rot and increased pest activity on popular picks such as garden phlox (Phlox paniculata), bee balm (Monarda spp. and hybrids) and zinnia. (And if that wasn’t enough to deter you, nighttime watering can also increase mosquito activity.)

Watering earlier in the day, ideally in the morning, allows plants to absorb moisture while giving foliage time to dry before nightfall.

3. Replanting in the same spot after an infestation

Many pests and diseases are specific to certain types of plants and can hide in the soil between growing seasons. Replanting the same plants in the same location allows problems to recur and even intensify.

Avoid planting tomatoes or peppers where you previously had disease issues, and keep cucumbers, squash and melons away from the site of a squash bug infestation. And if you dig out your garden phlox because of a powdery mildew infestation, don’t plant more in the same spot. Same goes for black spot on roses (Rosa spp. and hybrids) or rust on hollyhocks (Alcea rosea).

Rotate vegetable crops to avoid recurring issues

Rotating crops disrupts pest life cycles by removing their preferred hosts. Even simple swaps — moving plants to a different bed or section each year — can significantly reduce recurring issues. See a simple crop rotation example in the illustration above.

4. Planting too early in spring

Many insects emerge and feed during early planting periods. While it’s hard to resist the temptation to get a jump on the growing season, plants put in the ground too soon may be exposed to peak pest activity before they’re strong enough to withstand the damage.

For example, bean leaf beetles often target early-planted green beans, while beans planted a few weeks later may escape the worst damage. Cucurbits planted at the first hint of warm weather can also be more vulnerable to squash bugs and cucumber beetles.

Early planting can negatively affect flowers, too. Tender annuals such as petunias (Petunia hybrids) or impatiens (Impatiens hybrids) planted when nighttime temperatures are still regularly in the 40s and 50s (F) may grow slowly, producing soft new growth that attracts aphids. Aphid populations can build quickly in the spring, before beneficial insects are abundant enough to control them.

Consider timing when harvesting crops

Harvest timing matters as well. Cool-season crops like lettuce, spinach and peas that linger too long in warm weather can attract late-season pests and disease, so be sure to enjoy your produce at peak freshness.

Adjust timing to help dodge garden pests

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5. Leaving diseased plant debris in the garden over winter

Many perennials, ornamental grasses and shrubs can provide critical shelter and food to animals throughout the colder months. However, sometimes leaving behind dead leaves and spent annuals provides insulation that allows insects, eggs, larvae and diseases to survive the winter. When spring arrives, those pests and pathogens are already in place to infest new growth.

For example, in vegetable gardens, squash vines left in beds can harbor squash vine borer eggs, while tomato debris may bring blight spores from one growing season to the next. Flower gardens face similar risks. Peony (Paeonia hybrids) foliage can contain botrytis blight (gray mold), and diseased rose leaves can carry black spot through winter.

Break the cycle by removing infected material

Removing spent plant material that is diseased or infested before the snow flies helps break pest and disease cycles. While you can compost or leave most healthy debris in place, you should discard anything that looks suspicious.

Plants that tend to harbor pests and disease overwinter

This list of edible and ornamental plants is especially prone to harboring pests and diseases if left standing over winter. Consider removing them if they show any signs of pests or disease during the season to avoid carrying those problems into your garden the following year.

Edible Plants

• Bean
• Cucumber
• Eggplant
• Melon
• Squash
• Pepper
• Potato
• Tomato

Ornamentals

• Bee balm
• Hosta
• Peony
• Garden phlox
• Rose
• Zinnia

Creating a flower-filled front yard from scratch

When Ellen Goldfarb first moved to her New Jersey home 40 years ago, the front yard was all lawn, with a few standard-issue shrubs skirting the foundation. Soon after, she removed many of those original shrubs and planted a cottage border along the driveway. Watch the Talk & Tour video above to hear more about how this front yard makeover came together.

Over the years, she added more garden space and removed lawn while establishing What’s Blooming?, a garden design and maintenance firm that she now runs with her daughter, Tracy Buttrick. Eventually, she says, “I was doing all of these nice gardens for people, and I wanted what they had.”

Front yard before

A sloping front lawn with a foundation planting of yews (Taxus spp. and hybrids), rhododendrons (Rhododendron hybrids), Japanese pieris (Pieris japonica) and other shrubs provided the blank slate for the front-yard showpiece you see below.

You Can Also Read this Feature on Ellen's Garden in the Summer issue of Garden Gate magazine!

Starting from scratch

So to divide up the 56-foot-wide by 35-foot-deep front yard and manage the slope better, Ellen had a curving 1-foot-tall stone wall installed that effectively created three distinct terraces. Then she converted the front yard into a garden filled with a variety of Japanese maples (Acer palmatum), boxwoods (Buxus spp. and hybrids), hydrangeas (Hydrangea spp. and hybrids) and other flowering shrubs and perennials, both for her own enjoyment and to showcase her work.

Creating levels in the garden

She likes to think of the levels that this change created as stages that allow the plants to show off better. However, even though the garden is full of plants, she takes care to position them so that the contrasting stone shows through here and there, even during the growing season, utilizing plants pruned into standards and a mix of different shapes and textures.

Want Ellen's List of Deer-Resistant Plants?

Download Ellen's Deer-Resistant Plant Palette

Smart plant choices

While she was initially drawn to flowers (and still is), Ellen recognizes that every good design needs structure. “I like organized chaos,” she says. Tidy ‘Wintergreen’ Korean boxwoods (Buxus sinica var. insularis), Japanese plum yew (Cephalotaxus harringtonia) and deodar cedar (Cedrus deodara) all frame exuberant plantings on each terrace. Although Ellen starts with a list of flowers that she wants to include in a new garden design, when it’s time to put the design to paper, she always places the evergreens and other structural plants first.

Everything in the garden shouldn’t be a diva, the way the tall urn, yellow standard lantana or stately ‘Seiryu’ Japanese maple (Acer palmatum) are in the photo above. You need plenty of supporting cast too. Some favorites for these roles include black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia fulgida sullivantii), ornamental grasses, hydrangeas and ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris). She frequently turns to chartreuse-foliaged plants, such as hakonechloa (Matteuccia struthiopteris), as supporting cast members. She says, “Chartreuse just makes everything else look better.”

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Dealing with the deer problem

Walking through the neighborhood, you might not suspect that deer would be such voracious pests. But in recent years she’s had to work hard to keep them from eating her garden and her clients’ gardens as well. After much experimentation (and heartbreak), she’s discovered that evergreen shrubs like boxwoods, many junipers (Juniperus spp. and hybrids) and cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus) tend to be deer-proof. She’s also had relatively good luck with bigleaf hydrangeas and roses like those in the Drift series.

But some years are worse than others. Last year a persistent doe and her two fawns even ate the black-eyed Susans and heleniums, which they usually avoid. Find a few of Ellen’s favorite deer-resistant flowers below.

Site deer-susceptible plants in protected areas

Over the years, she’s moved the most susceptible plants to more protected spots, such as the windowbox full of lettuce in the photo above, and many of her beloved David Austin^® roses, which she has relocated to the fenced-in backyard. But nothing is foolproof, so in addition, she has a local deer-control service spray their proprietary solution at least once a month during the growing season. She follows up with a spray bottle every week or so, covering tender new growth. 

Ellen’s favorite easy-care shrub roses

• Drift^®
• Knock Out^®
• Julia Child
• Easy Does It^®
• Bonica^® (she's had one for 40 years!)

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6 of Ellen’s Favorite Deer-Resistant Flowers

Want to see a bigger list of deer-resistant perennials, shrubs and trees? Download the full guide from Ellen here. Download her Deer-Resistant Plant Palette PDF here.

1. Helenium (Helenium spp. and hybrids)

These long-blooming perennials tolerate heavy soil well.

• Type: Perennial
  
• Blooms: Yellow, orange or red daisy-shaped flowers summer to fall
  
• Light: Full sun to part shade
  
• Soil: Average to wet well-drained soil
  
• Size: 2 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

2. Calamint (Calamintha nepeta)

The white, frothy flowers of well-behaved ‘Montrose White’ calamint complement so many plants and bloom from May through frost.

• Type: Perennial
  
• Blooms: Tiny white flowers late spring through frost
  
• Light: Full sun
  
• Soil: Dry to average well-drained soil
  
• Size: 12 to 24 in. tall and wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

3. Allium (Allium hybrids)

After the jaunty purple lollipop blooms of ‘Millenium’ allium have faded, the dried seedheads still have garden interest.

• Type: Perennial
  
• Blooms: Small globe-shaped lavender or white blooms in early to late summer
  
• Light: Full sun
  
• Soil: Dry to medium well-drained soil
  
• Size: 12 to 18 in. tall and wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 8

4. Angelonia (Angelonia angustifolia)

These flowers are everblooming, never reseed, seldom fall over and perform well with or without deadheading.

• Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
  
• Blooms: Spiky white, purple, pink or raspberry blooms from spring through fall
  
• Light: Full sun
  
• Soil: Moist, well-drained soil
  
• Size: 12 to 30 in. tall, 10 to 18 in. wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11

5. Salvia (Salvia spp. and hybrids)

Hummingbirds adore the tubular flowers of salvia, especially the red varieties.

• Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
  
• Blooms: Blue, purple, white, red or pink flowers in summer through fall
  
• Light: Full sun to part shade
  
• Soil: Moist, well-drained soil
  
• Size: 2 to 5 ft. tall and wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11

6. Lantana (Lantana camara)

Reliable nonstop bloomers and standard forms provide height in just the right spots.

• Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
  
• Blooms: Small white, yellow, pink, purple, red or orange flowers from spring through fall
  
• Light: Full sun
  
• Soil: Dry to medium well-drained soil
  
• Size: 1 to 4 ft. tall, 1 to 3 ft. wide
  
• Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 9 to 11

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Summer gardening brings plenty of challenges. Discover reader-tested tips for dealing with slugs, deterring birds from nesting in rain gutters, and making the most of your garden space by sharing it with neighbors.

An easy way to use eggshells to deter snails and slugs

Constance has a problem with slugs and snails eating her hostas, so she applies ground eggshells to the areas around her hostas to deter the pests. To make the process easier, she realized she could reuse a grated parmesan cheese shaker — the durable plastic kind that dispenses from holes in the lid like you see above. Just wash the container out and let it fully dry before filling with clean, dry, ground eggshells and apply with ease. 

—Tip submitted by Constance Larson, ID

Deter nesting birds with this simple solution

To prevent birds from making nests in unsafe or inconvenient spots, Jim found that he could use two unexpected items: An old tuna can and a golf ball. In some spots, such as the one where a gutter or light attaches to siding, he just balances a can where the birds will knock it off if they try to land. It makes a clanging noise that scares them away.

If they’re trying to build nests on the flat tops of his lights, he secures the can to the top. Then he places a golf ball inside. The ball rolls around when birds try to land and nest, startling them and sending them off to a different location.

—Tip submitted by Jim Fameree, WI

Grow flowers from seed all season for budget-friendly containers

It’s more economical to change your containers from season to season when you are growing some of the plants from seed. Richard has a simple rotating system in place to keep his front yard container display stunning: At the same time he plants up the spring containers in the front yard, he plants seeds and seedlings in a few pots in the backyard too.

By the time the containers out front are fading, the seed-grown plants in the back have come into their own. Richard swaps the faded planters for fresh ones that keep his front entrance looking its best. Then in the backyard he refreshes the faded pots, pulling out some spent plants, replenishing potting mix and reseeding the empty spaces with cool-season plants that will be ready to show off by the time fall comes and he’s ready to swap the containers again.

—Tip submitted by Richard Sunberg, OH

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Upcycle a rusty firepit into a garden planter

Instead of tossing out your old metal fire pit, line it with landscape fabric or coir lining and plant it up! Anna’s old fire pit had a few holes caused by rust that could provide drainage. But if yours doesn’t, just carefully drill a few new ones. If the exterior is looking a little rusty, a couple layers of spray paint can give it a fresh new look.

—Tip submitted by Anna Ellenberger, PA

Create a neighborly growing space

If you are lacking space for a vegetable garden, you might want to team up. Kent and his neighbor both wanted a vegetable garden and decided that the flattest and sunniest location was where their side yards met. Together they built the raised bed in three stair-stepping sections to follow the slope of the yard, each with their own trellises. Then they each chose one section to plant and tend themselves, leaving the middle section for shared crops.

Pole beans and cucumbers grow on the 7 ½-foot-tall trellises that also help support tomatoes and peppers. Plus there’s always room to tuck in a few flowers. This has worked so well that they often have a big harvest they can share with friends and family.

—Tip submitted by Kent Young, IA

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Photos courtesy of contributors; Illustration by Carlie Hamilton