The Arrival of the Chimney Swift

Chimney swifts. In April they come, in October they go, and in between, from dawn to dusk, their chittering, twittering calls fill the sky. I hear them everywhere in Nashville: in the city, the suburbs, the parks, the parking lots and right this minute from my porch, even though a succession of lawn mowers and pesticide foggers is roaring through one little front yard after another. The birds fly so fast that sometimes I look up and they're already out of sight.

Chimney swifts flew unheard and unseen every year of my life until a naturalist pointed them out on a hike. "They look like flying cigars," she said and then told me I would never see what they looked like when they weren't flying. Because they are always flying. Chimney swifts eat, drink, bathe, court and mate in the air, and can even sleep while flying. They only land when they nest and roost, but this happens in private: inside an uncapped chimney, for example.

You Might Also Like:
Avoid These Common Bird-Feeding Mistakes
How to Attract More Birds to Your Garden
6 Plants Birds Love

Where Do Chimney Swifts Live?

Chimney swifts nested in North America millions of years before humans even thought about bricks, so why do they need chimneys? Because their hollow trees are gone. Masonry chimneys have rough, vertical surfaces that swift feet can grab—they can't "perch" like other birds. Their nests, little half-saucers made of twigs glued together with saliva, can stick to this surface as well. So in spring, chimneys are single-family housing, and in summer and fall are hotels where birds gather to roost before they fly to winter homes in the Amazon Basin.

Swift Decline

In the last 50 years, chimney swift numbers have dropped by more than half, and the decline is accelerating. Habitat loss is the short answer as to why, and this includes a loss of insect prey and of chimneys. Gardeners are uniquely poised to support chimney swift populations, keep reading to learn about 6 simple ways to support them.

My chimney is capped, as per every home inspection ever. Daily walks show me that other chimneys are capped too, and that new homes don't have chimneys at all. Some heroic bird-lovers uncover their chimneys for the swifts, then tidy and re-cap for winter, and I wish I could say I was one of them. Other housing options are DIY towers and faux chimneys good for public spaces. Ideally, there's a protected barn, silo, vent pipe or industrial chimney nearby where swifts can gather at night to swirl by the thousands in an unforgettable display known as a bird tornado.

But even a regular chimney can be a game-changing spectacle for people, and a lifesaver for birds.

You Might Also Like:
Support Birds in Your Backyard with This Planting Plan
Best Plants with Berries for Birds
Winter Happy Hour for the Birds

A Chimney Swift Sighting

A few Septembers ago, my family and I were on the sidewalk at sunset, waiting to cross the street to get home. About two dozen chimney swifts were circling high above our sugar maple. Where would they spend the night? For years, I had wondered where neighborhood swifts slept. All day, above every street, they'd be wheeling and chattering, gobbling every insect within reach, and then, poof! Gone. Which neighbor had an uncapped chimney and either didn't know or didn't mind that it made new birds in spring and hosted slumber parties all summer?

Right then, one bird broke from the circle and fell. It didn’t slow down, but simply dropped from the sky, flapping and falling headfirst into our next-door neighbor’s chimney. “Y’all, I could swear that bird dropped down the chimney,” I said to no one who believed it, and I wasn’t sure I believed it myself. So while everyone else went inside, I stayed in the driveway to stand and wait and watch under the darkening sky until I saw every bird peel off from the party to flutter and fall, one at a time, into bed.

6 Ways to Garden for Chimney Swifts (and all Birds)

1. Add native plants. Learn which plants are native to your zip code at audubon.org/native-plants or check with your local extension agency.
2. Mow high and less often. Taller grass supports more insects, which in turn, feed more birds.
3. Skip pesticides and herbicides. Most chemical-based controls persist in the soil and water for years.
4. Leave some leaves. A free source of soil-enriching nutrients, rotting leaves are an important place for birds to forage.
5. Make a brush pile. Even a small brush pile can provide shelter and foraging for wrens, nuthatches and other birds.
6. Turn off unnecessary nighttime lighting during spring and fall migration. Birds find artificial lights disorienting, leading to more collisions.

Learn more about chimney swifts at U.S. Fish and Wildlife website: fws.gov/story/chimney-swifts

You Might Also Like:
Native Plants for Every Size Garden
Should You Leave the Leaves in Fall?
How to Create Wildlife Safe Water Features in Your Garden

Joanna, author of "This Is How a Robin Drinks: Essays on Urban Nature," writes about everyday wonders in everyday habitat loss on Instagram @jo_brichetto and at SidewalkNature.com.

Fall Container Packed with Texture and Interest

Fall is full of shades of orange, so have some fun with complementary hues of blue. Thick, milky blue kale leaves, bright cobalt plumbago flowers and navy-toned bluestem grass create a cool combination that makes the classic orange mums and pumpkins pop. This large container planting is anchored by a small arborvitae shrub, creating a thriller and backdrop for the colorful blooms in the planting.

Layer on the succulent, cool-toned sedum for even more depth of color. Finish it off with thick-leaved livingstone daisy that spills over the edge. These tough plants manage just fine if you skip a day of watering. The coneflower might be the first to fade, but it’ll leave behind interesting seedheads for additional texture. The resin container is lightweight and weather resistant.

Put perennials to work in containers and in the garden

Perennials (and a shrub) pack this container, but it’s a good investment because you can plant them in the garden in fall to enjoy next year!

You Might Also Like:
Plant a Cool-Toned Fall Container With a Pro
4 Fall No-Fail Perennial Combinations Full of Texture
Container Garden Collection

Fall container plant list

A) Little bluestemSchizachyrium scoparium Blue Heaven^®
Perennial; leaves emerge blue with a pink hue in summer and copper color in fall; full sun; 24 to 48 in. tall, 18 to 40 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

B) ArborvitaeThuja occidentalis ‘American Pillar’
Tree; dense evergreen leaves grow in a columnar shape; full sun to part shade; 25 to 30 ft. tall, 3 to 5 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

C) ConeflowerEchinacea ‘Cheyenne Spirit’
Perennial; flowers bloom in orange, red, golden yellow, cream and purple shades summer to fall; full sun to part shade; 22 to 30 in. tall, 18 to 28 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

D) Tall sedumHylotelephium ‘Autumn Fire’
Perennial; flowers bloom pink and age to brick red in late summer through fall; full sun; 1 to 2 ft. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

E) Ornamental kaleBrassica oleracea ‘Osaka White’
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); big, frosty green leaves with white new growth; full sun to part shade; 8 to 12 in. tall, 10 to 15 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 11

F) Garden mumChrysanthemum hybrid
Perennial; orange flowers from late summer through fall; full sun; 12 to 36 in. tall, 15 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

G) Tall sedumHylotelephium telephium ‘Cherry Truffle’
Perennial; large pink flowers above purple foliage late summer through fall; full sun; 18 to 24 in. tall, 24 to 30 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

H) PlumbagoCeratostigma plumbaginoides
Perennial; bright blue flowers from midsummer to fall; full sun to part shade; 8 to 12 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

I) Livingstone daisyDorotheanthus bellidiformis Mezoo^™ Trailing Red
Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual); small red flowers bloom in spring and summer; full sun to part shade; 8 to 10 in. tall, 10 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11

Subscribe to Garden Gate Magazine for Design Ideas Delivered Every Season!

We all have our own expectations for the fall garden. Are you looking for an entirely new scene filled with fall-blooming flowers? Or do you seek to appreciate summer plants’ transition from lush and lively to wizened and waning? I love to combine both. Nothing is more celebratory than seeing vibrant flowers against turning foliage and aging seedheads. Take advantage of these unique characteristics, and play up the colors and textures the late season has to offer.

Tall sedum shines in the late-season garden

One plant to consider is tall sedum. Sure, we might relegate it as a filler plant, just a placeholder among other showier flowers. But I have a few examples to show you how it can be a star performer in the late-season landscape. The thick, succulent leaves are key to bringing life to a border of dropping petals and drying leaves. And the dense, flat-topped clusters of flowers are a continual source of texture from early summer on. But just as you’re getting used to their muted green presence, they turn in fall anywhere from a vibrant pink to a moody mauve and recapture your interest. Tall sedum is a dependable choice for creating layers of texture.

It isn’t the only plant that will do this, though. Read on to discover some great combinations that feature plants with unusual flower shapes and distinct leaf patterns. Find a way to strike that beautiful balance in the fall garden.

No-Fail Fall Garden Combos

Combine perennials and trees for multiseason interest

Combine the dome-shaped flowers of tall sedum with slender mealycup sage spikes, which punctuate the combo and echo the silvery dwarf blue spruce. This showy conifer provides year-long color. Trim it as new growth emerges to keep it in bounds. Don’t cut back the faded flowers of the tall sedum in late fall: They usually last through winter and provide extra interest.

A) Dwarf blue sprucePicea pungens ‘Globosa’
Type: Tree
Blooms: Frosty blue evergreen needles
Light: Full sun
Size: 3 to 5 ft. tall, 4 to 6 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 2 to 8

B) Tall sedumHylotelephium ‘Autumn Joy’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Dusty pink to rusty red flowers bloom from late summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

C) Tall sedumHylotelephium ‘Matrona’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Dusty pink flowers bloom from late summer to fall atop dark leaves
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

D) Mealycup sageSalvia farinacea ‘Victoria Blue’
Type: Tender perennial
Blooms: Blue-purple flowers bloom spring through fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall, 10 to 18 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11

You Might Also Like:
How to Use Conifers in the Garden
9 Plants With Multiseason Interest
Wildlife-Friendly Garden Plan Collection

A simple but sweet fall garden border

If you have a narrow, stretching space in your garden, take some cues from this raised stone bed. A single row of sturdy and resilient sedum brings the color in fall, while the sweet autumn clematis spends all summer creeping over the fence to flood this pretty scene with cascades of dainty white fragrant blossoms. This vine can reseed prolifically, so you may need to pull seedlings as they appear.

This combo starts out slowly in spring, so there would be room to add spring-blooming bulbs. Their yellowing foliage will be hidden beneath the sedum for the rest of the season.

A) Sweet autumn clematisClematis terniflora
Type: Perennial
Blooms: White, star-shaped flowers in late summer and fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 15 to 30 ft. tall and spreading habit
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

B) Tall sedumHylotelephium ‘Autumn Joy’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Dusty pink to rusty red flowers bloom from late summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 to 24 in. tall and wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

Mix flower textures for interesting perennial borders

This border follows the perimeter of the backyard. Planted densely together, these tall plants provide privacy and envelop the yard with a mix of bright feathery plumes, climbing burgundy clusters and glowing blue spikes that nod in the breeze. Notice that there aren’t any large-petaled flowers here — only small flowers in a variety of shapes.

Fine-textured flowers can easily lose their impact from a distance, but these large plants hold masses of flowers that you can’t miss. For smaller plants with fine texture, group many together for combined impact. If possible, make sure each plant offers at least one unique characteristic, such as color or flower shape.

Include nectar-rich perennials to support pollinators

Wildlife will love this combo, too. The photo above shows a monarch butterfly fueling up for fall migration by feeding on Joe-Pye weed. Late-blooming flowers are essential to pollinators, and Joe-Pye weed and anise hyssop are two favorites. No deadheading is needed here. Instead, spent flowers will keep their interesting texture deep into winter.

A) Joe-Pye weedEutrochium dubium ‘Little Joe’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Clusters of purple flowers in summer and fall
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 3 to 4 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 9

B) Anise hyssopAgastache ‘Blue Fortune’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Lavender blue spikes of flowers in summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Size: 24 to 36 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

C) Feather reed grassCalamagrostis x acutiflora ‘Karl Foerster’
Type: Perennial
Blooms: Golden beige flowers in summer to fall
Light: Full sun
Size: 3 to 5 ft. tall, 2 to 3 ft. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9

You Might Also Like:
Native Prairie Plants for Every Size Garden
6 Gardeners Weigh In on the Big Fall Cleanup
Watch: All About Monarchs & Milkweed

Create an eye-catching combo with firecracker plant

Hot orange and yellow can light up a landscape and quickly steal all the attention. If you love this color scheme but want to tone it down, this combo is a wonderful example. The first tip is to choose plants with small, dainty flowers. Even if their colors are vibrant, their small shape is a more subtle presence. The other trick is to use a variety of foliage colors. The fuzzy blue foliage of the yellow buttons plant lends a cool element, and the golden bronze sedge adds another layer of warmth.

Firecracker plant's long, brightly colored tubular flowers are a favorite of hummingbirds! Try planting them in a container for a close view in the garden.

Good to know

All of these plants are tender perennials grown as annuals where they’re not hardy and bring the color from the get-go. As the season progresses, they fill in and intermingle to create a fascinating collage of autumnal color and texture. As a bonus, these sun-loving plants can take heat and tolerate drought without compromising their gorgeous fall finale.

A) Large firecracker plantCuphea Vermillionaire^®
Type: Tender perennial
Blooms: Orange tubular flowers
Light: Full sun
Size: 18 to 28 in. tall, 12 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 8 to 11

B) Leatherleaf sedgeCarex buchananii ‘Red Rooster’
Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Bronze-brown leaves all season long
Light: Full sun to part shade
Size: 16 to 24 in. tall, 18 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

C) Yellow buttonsChrysocephalum apiculatum Flambe^® Yellow
Type: Tender perennial (usually grown as an annual)
Blooms: Round yellow flowers from spring through fall
Light: Full sun
Size: 8 to 14 in. tall, 15 to 24 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 9 to 10

Subscribe to Garden Gate Magazine for fresh No-Fail Combos delivered to your inbox every season

Plant Up a Fall Container With a Pro

Even fall containers need some care to look good for as long as possible. And if you’re expecting to hang on to a few of your summer favorites to use in fall, you’ll want to follow garden designer Susan Nock’s advice for great-looking containers. As the owner of Thistle Containers in the Seattle area, she has more than a decade of experience creating seasonal displays for clients and in her own garden. Watch the video above or on our YouTube channel to see her plant up a pretty cool-toned planter for fall, and find the recipe below.

The most important thing to do is water. And while cooler fall temperatures usually mean less watering, dry spells happen even at the end of the growing season. If potting mix dries out too much, it’s hard to get it remoistened. Insert your forefinger up to the first knuckle, and if it’s dry, it’s time for a visit with the hose.

Fall container planting tips

Susan plants her fall containers around mid-September and mixes a slow-release fertilizer into the potting mix. In summer, she’ll use a water-soluble plant food every couple of weeks, but because the fall growing season is short, she doesn’t bother with that. And as you’ll see by the containers in this article, she gets wonderful results. 

You Might Also Like:
Take a Fall Container Garden Tour With Susan Nock
Sign Up for Our Email List and Get a PDF Download of Susan's Fall Container Recipes!
Watch More Container Gardening Videos

Fall Container Planting Recipes

Cool-toned fall container plant combination

Sitting at the end of a walkway, this little group leads the way deeper into the backyard garden, with its out-of-the-ordinary color combination. The taller pot’s tall sedum and ivy tie in with the windowbox in the background while the lower pot stairsteps down to the path with flowery accents.

Container plant list (number to plant)

A) Maiden grassMiscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’ (1)
B) Ornamental kaleBrassica oleracea ‘Lacinato’ (1)
C) Montauk daisyNipponanthemum nipponicum (1)
D) Cushion bushLeucophyta brownii (1)
E) PansyViola x wittrockiana Matrix^™ White (1)
F) Tall sedumHylotelephium x mottramianum ‘Autumn Joy’ (1)
G) English ivyHedera helix ‘Variegata’ (1)
(Note: English ivy is considered invasive in some areas; keep contained to the planting to avoid problems with spreading.)
H) EuphorbiaEuphorbia x martinii ‘Ascot Rainbow’ (1)
I) AsterSymphyotrichum hybrid (1)
J) Ornamental kaleBrassica oleracea ‘Pigeon White’ (1)
K) Garden mumChrysanthemum hybrid (1)
L) CalibrachoaCalibrachoa hybrid (1)

Tall container is 18 in. tall x 16 in. wide
Low bowl planter is 8 in. tall x 14 in. wide

Create out-of-the-ordinary fall container with white flowers

Susan wanted a light and airy fall combo for this small windowbox, so the color combination isn’t the usual warm hues. White, gray and yellow coordinate with the storage shed, providing a soft look that still radiates a fall vibe.

Container plant list (number to plant)

A) ConeflowerEchinacea Sombrero^® Lemon Yellow (1)
B) Dusty millerJacobaea maritima ‘Silver Dust’ (2)
C) HeatherCalluna vulgaris (2)
D) Garden mumChrysanthemum morifolium Shannon^™ White (2)
E) PansyViola x wittrockiana Matrix^™ White (1)
F) Ornamental kaleBrassica oleracea ‘Pigeon White’ (2)
G) English ivyHedera helix ‘Variegata’ (5)

Windowbox is 24 in. long x 10 in. wide x 10 in. deep

You Might Also Like:
How to Grow Your Best Pansies
8 Cool-Weather Plants
More Cool-Toned Container Design Ideas

Create an accent planter with leftovers

Susan found this little sconce at a thrift store. It has a metal lining so the potting mix doesn’t fall out and is round in front but flat on the back for hanging. It’s positioned on a wall near the windowbox above, so she used some of the leftover plants from that design for an integrated appearance. Then she tucked in a ‘Baby Boo’ miniature pumpkin to complete the look.

Container plant list (number to plant)

A) Montauk daisyNipponanthemum nipponicum (1)
B) Dusty millerJacobaea maritima ‘Silver Dust’ (1)
C) English ivyHedera helix ‘Variegata’ (1)
D) HeatherCalluna vulgaris (1)

Container is 10 in. wide

(Note: English ivy is considered invasive in some areas; keep contained to the planting to avoid problems with spreading.)

You Might Also Like:
Sign Up for Our Email List and Get a PDF Download of Susan's Fall Container Recipes!
Easy Upcycled Garden Planters
Fall Pumpkin Tips From Our Readers

Tent caterpillars vs. fall webworms

If you treated your trees for tent caterpillars in spring, you may be surprised (and possibly alarmed!) to see webbing in other trees in the fall. Should you spray again? Probably not. It's likely that they are actually two different critters: Tent caterpillars and fall webworms.

Tent caterpillars (Malacosoma americanum) eat foliage in spring. Fall webworms (Hyphantria cunea) eat foliage after the tree or shrub has already stored energy for winter and is preparing to go dormant.

Are they harmful?

It’s a good idea to treat the tent caterpillars. They eat tender new growth, which weakens the trees, making them more susceptible to other pests or diseases later in the season.

Fall webworms, on the other hand, are more unsightly than harmful. Their feeding isn’t usually as much of a problem so you can just leave them alone.

You Might Also Like:
Submit Your Garden Questions!
5 Ways to Get Rid of Weeds without Pulling Them
7 Common Garden Pests

Tips From the Pros: Ideas for Gorgeous Fall Container Displays

Just because the growing season is winding down doesn’t mean you have to give up on your containers. Garden designer Susan Nock has been designing and planting them for more than 10 years and has lots of tips and ideas to share for creating gorgeous fall designs. Watch the Talk & Tour video above to get a garden design pro’s tips for creating beautiful fall containers, and see how Susan brings her seasonal designs together.

Coordinate container colors with your home and garden

Before Susan starts planting, she looks at where the container will sit. Whether it’s in a border or along a path, her goal is to create a “color conversation” — a back and forth between the container and the area around it so the container fits in seamlessly.

In the photo above, she’s picked up color notes from the home’s door, trim and siding in the pots near the entry. There’s also a lacecap hydrangea near the foundation that is white in summer but develops a red-pink blush in fall, so she chose the classic orange, red and yellow fall-color palette to coordinate with that standout shrub.

Susan finds that odd numbers in a grouping look best. In this group of three that you can see more clearly in the photo below, the large square pot is 20 inches square, the medium round one is 18 inches and the smallest is 12 inches. The largest pots usually have several different types of plants, but there’s just one in the smallest so the group doesn’t look too busy or confusing.

You Might Also Like:
8 Cool-Weather Plants
Colorful Fall Windowbox Planting
Shop Our Collection of Container Gardening Books

Use containers to create visual clues for visitors

Another key role this fall entry grouping plays is to guide visitors along the path to the front door. Giving them an “oh, there’s something there so I should follow” kind of clue. Bright orange pumpkins and the showy croton foliage are sure attention-getters, drawing people along the path to the entry.

In other areas of the garden, Susan likes to create destinations. It might be an out-of-the-way patio or a bench tucked away in a side yard that could be hard to find unless you place a colorful container at the bend in a path or close to the journey’s end.

Beautify a fall border by adding containers

The great thing about containers is that they’re mobile, so you can move them wherever you need some help. Do you have a tired spot in the border where the perennials and shrubs are done blooming and the annuals are looking ragged? That’s an ideal spot for fall containers to add a visual pop.

Or maybe you have a fall border with plenty of low-growing but colorful garden mums in need of a little added height. Slip in a group of containers like the ones we’ve talked about here and you’ll have a beautiful display.

Susan uses this same approach for working containers in every season. While some of her clients want the traditional burnished red, orange and yellow colors for fall designs, others prefer cool shades — whatever the color scheme, she loves them all. Read on to get a look at some of the beautiful fall containers she created for her own home.

Tips for designing interesting fall containers

Susan is a big fan of foliage-focused containers, even in fall. They’re easy-care and look good until frost. A variety of leaf shapes, sizes and textures, as seen with the ‘Toffee Twist’ sedge, coral bells and dichondra in the planting above, ensures each plant stands out, providing a gorgeous design every time. Plus, a mix of small, medium and large leaves moves your eye through the planting, with the larger leaves providing a place to rest. Too many small- to medium-sized leaves create what Susan calls “a salad bowl container” that makes it hard to tell what’s what.

Love these fall containers?Get a PDF Download of Susan's container designs including plant lists here!

Choose the best containers

If you’re shopping for containers, large ones — 18 inches in diameter or larger — are definitely worth the investment. The size easily attracts attention; plants are healthier because there’s more room for roots to grow, and with more potting mix, it stays moist longer, so you water less. An added benefit is that you can plant larger specimens for instant impact. Buying bigger plants is an especially good idea for fall containers, as plants don’t put on a lot of new growth in cooler temperatures.

In Susan’s zone 6 garden, bigger pots mean she’s been able to overwinter evergreens, like the arborvitae in the photo above that’s a couple of years old. In spring, Susan will move this shrub to a separate pot and tuck it away in a corner of the garden to showcase again the following fall and winter.

All-weather materials

Her favorite all-weather pots are made of fiberstone and come from Campania. Most of the terra-cotta pots go indoors for the winter, but she still makes use of them for as long as possible.

Consider container height

How tall a container should be depends on the situation. Susan often lets the house or other garden structures dictate the size. At an entry, she likes the container to be about a third the size of the door. A 24-inch-tall pot with an arborvitae is just the right size to attract attention to the shed’s door. In the border, Susan looks for a fence, a shrub or even a tall perennial to relate the container to and ensure a proportional look.

You Might Also Like:
Pros and Cons of Different Types of Containers
4 Container Design Tips + Patio Planter Ideas
Watch Our Container Gardening Video Playlist on YouTube

Seasonal container swap-out

This spot on the deck is a high visibility area that Susan walks by daily and can see from her kitchen window, so she creates seasonal displays to enjoy every year. The summer group (above) had lots of tender house plants, succulents and bromeliads that needed to go indoors once fall nights were getting chilly.

Fall display

So Susan swapped those out for cool-weather-loving garden mums, ornamental kale, heather and, of course, pumpkins you see above. The big arborvitae at the end of the bench and long concrete trough are too heavy to move, so they stay in place all year.

You Might Also Like:
Fall Garden Talk & Tour: Step Inside an Ohio Couple’s DIY Garden
Mum & Kale Fall Container Planting Plan
Subscribe to Garden Gate magazine!

Mesa Red blanket flower

Gaillardia x grandiflora

Type: Perennial
Blooms: Deep red, daisy-shaped blooms in late spring to late summer
Light: Full sun
Soil: Prefers moist, well-drained soil; tolerates dry soil
Pests: None serious
Size: 14 to 16 in. tall, 20 to 22 in. wide
Hardiness: Cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10
Plant Source: Local garden centers

Think you don’t need a blanket in summer? Think again! Blanket flowers add a punch of continuous color to any sunny garden. And Mesa Red blooms even longer than most varieties, starting in late spring and lasting through late summer. With 2- to 3-inch-wide red, nonfading, daisy-shaped flowers, a few of these gorgeous little perennials can make a big, colorful statement in some of your toughest, hottest garden spots. Plus, they’re more compact than most blanket flower cultivars, so the clumps won’t fall apart in the middle or sprawl over neighboring plants.

You Might Also Like:
Spigelia Marilandica Adds Bold Color to Shade Gardens
How to Grow & Troubleshoot Hardy Hibiscus Plants
‘Hino-Crimson’ Azalea Will Brighten Your Landscape

Welcome pollinators with blanket flower

If you’re trying to attract pollinators to your garden, Mesa Red extends a colorful welcome. Bees, butterflies and hummingbirds love the nectar-rich flowers. Just as important, deer and rabbits tend to avoid them. They make good, long-lasting cut flowers too, so you can enjoy them indoors or out.

Got a hot spot? Blanket flowers thrive in lots of sun but get leggy and floppy in too much shade. Moist, well-drained soil is best, but they will tolerate dry, sandy, and rocky soil. If you're trying to get this hybrid of two North American species started in a dry spot, make sure you water plants regularly for the first summer to get the root systems established. Avoid heavy clay soils, though, as the inadequate drainage causes rot.

Mesa Red blanket flower care

You don’t need to fertilize blanket flowers, either, as that can make them flop. Plants are often short-lived, lasting two to three years; make sure they have adequate drainage and cut them back to 5 or 6 inches high in the fall to help them last longer.

If you purchase potted plants, they generally bloom the first summer. You can also start seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last frost, or sow them directly outdoors after the last frost. The seeds need light to germinate, so sow them on the surface of the seed-starting mix. Seed-grown blanket flowers likely won’t bloom until the second year.

However you choose to plant them, Mesa Red blanket flowers will be a summer star in any sunny garden! Find a colorful garden bed design below to get started with this tough perennial.

You Might Also Like:
Sunny Garden Plans Collection
Deer-Resistant Front Yard Garden Makeover
Summer Flowers That Can Take the Heat

Colorful planting plan for hot, sunny spots with Mesa Red Blanket flower

This bright primary-colored combo won’t wash out in a hot, sunny corner of the garden, so you and the butterflies can enjoy it all summer long. Keep this planting watered regularly the first summer you plant it, and it’ll be able to tolerate some drought in subsequent years — this makes it a perfect combination for a spot a little farther from a water source.

A. YarrowAchillea ‘Moonshine’
Perennial; yellow blooms from early to late summer; full sun; 12 to 24 in. tall, 12 to 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

B. Blanket flowerGaillardia x grandiflora Mesa Red
Perennial; deep red, daisy-shaped blooms in late spring to late summer; full sun; 14 to 16 in. tall, 20 to 22 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 10

C. VeronicaVeronica ‘Blue Sprite’
Perennial; blue-purple spikes in early to late summer; full sun; 3 to 6 in. tall, 18 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 4 to 7

You Might Also Like:
Watch Our Gardening Videos on YouTube
How to Use Red in Your Garden
Plants with Red Flowers & Foliage

Agastache for Deer-Resistant, Drought-Tolerant Gardens in Every Region

When you want a border buzzing with bees, bursting with butterflies and humming with hummingbirds, agastache (Agastache spp. and hybrids) is a great choice. Besides getting lots of love from pollinators, this amazing perennial has fragrant foliage topped by long-lasting blooms and takes hot dry spells in stride. Plus, deer and rabbits leave it alone, and it’s rarely bothered by insect pests or disease.

Agastache comes in many shapes and sizes (and names!)

There are 22 species of agastache — most native to North America and Mexico — and numerous hybrids that all grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. What sets most agastache species and their hybrids apart is the soil they grow in. Those with roots in the Southwest United States and Mexico, such as licorice mint or Texas hummingbird mint, do best where the soil is lean and sharply drained.

Anise hyssop, a native to the Great Plains, or Korean mint from Asia thrive in richer soil with more organic matter and moisture. But all types of agastache will rot if the soil is consistently wet or soggy.

Common names vary and sometimes even overlap, but I’ll call the Southwest types hummingbird mint and the prairie types hyssop. Whatever the name, this practically perfect perennial has a lot to offer.

You Might Also Like:
Before & After: Deer-Resistant Front Yard
9 Tough Perennials for Clay Soil
Get the Current Issue of Garden Gate Magazine

Regional advice for growing agastache

Full sun and well-drained soil are a must for growing great agastache anywhere you garden, but different regions have different dilemmas. I talked with four experts who navigate the same growing challenges as home gardeners, and they shared their tips for growing beautiful plants along with a few varieties that have performed especially well. 

Growing agastache in the Midwest

Expert: Richard Hawke | Director of Ornamental Plant Research, Chicago Botanic Garden, IL

Summers are hot and humid in Chicago, and soils can range from rich and loamy to dense clay. Because Chicago Botanic Garden is so close to Lake Michigan, there can be lots of snow and strong winds to accompany the cold temperatures.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: There’s no need to feed agastache in the ground or in pots — they flower well without it.
• Mulch: Border plants get mulched in spring with a custom blend made from garden debris that has a leafy texture with no big chunks.
• Maintenance: Hyssop types handle the growing conditions at the Chicago Botanic Garden with ease and can sometimes even reseed. ‘Golden Jubilee’ can be extra generous so may need deadheading if you don’t want more plants.
• Beware of rot: The denser soil and wet winters can cause the roots and crowns of hummingbird mint to rot in borders. However, Richard has noticed that some newer varieties have better survival rates. Planting in containers is also a good alternative. Many are compact and bloom continuously without deadheading, almost like an annual.
• Plant trials: With all the new introductions, Richard is working on a plant trial of 48 hummingbird mint varieties to see how quickly they bulk up and bloom in one season. Results should be released in 2028.

Top agastache varieties for the Midwest

• ‘Rosie Posie’ A. hybrid
  Returned for several years in borders around the garden
• ‘Queen Nectarine’ A. hybrid
  Plants grew to 3 feet tall in one year
• ‘Purple Haze’ A. hybrid
  Has longer, more graceful flowers than others

You Might Also Like:
Best New Perennials From Chicago Botanic Plant Trials
Garden Pests to Look Out for in Your Region
Drought-Tolerant Plant Combinations

Growing agastache in the Southwest

Expert: Linda Churchill | Director of Horticulture, Santa Fe Botanical Garden, NM

Close to the Rocky Mountains, the Santa Fe Botanical Garden sits at 7,200 feet in elevation with a growing season from early May to October. The climate is generally hot and dry, though the garden’s location has a colder microclimate. The soil tends to be alkaline with a high mineral content and varying depths of caliche, a claylike soil that’s as hard as concrete.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Linda grows a lot of hummingbird mints in containers at home and does use a balanced liquid plant food, such as Miracle-Gro^®, since she’s often watering daily in summer and nutrients are quick to wash away.
• Mulch: Cramming plants together in the border works a lot like mulch, helping keep weeds down and conserving moisture. But hummingbird mint doesn’t like humidity, so Linda and her staff keep an eye out for fungus or mold that could develop. They sometimes mulch with gravel but don’t need much — an inch or so is just fine.
• Maintenance: Linda finds that plants come through winter better if you leave the dead stems in place to provide some protection for the crown.

Top agastache picks for the Southwest

• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Reseeds gracefully
• Texas hummingbird mint A. cana
  This variety gets taller than many others
• Desert Sunrise^®A. hybrid
  Needs slightly more water than others

Growing agastache in the Mountain West

Expert: Bridget Blomquist | Associate Director of Horticulture, Denver Botanic Gardens, CO

With over 300 days of sunshine on average in the Denver area, there’s never any worry about plants not getting enough light. Summers are hot and dry with cool nights, and winter is mild but can get quite snowy with high winds.

Hummingbirds, bees and butterflies are always on the agastache, but the hummers are a favorite. Bridget loves watching them dive-bomb, tussle and whistle at each other, as they argue over who gets to feed from which bloom.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Because these plants do best in lean soil, she hasn’t found the need to fertilize.
• Mulch: Squeegee is the mulch of choice for agastache at the Denver Botanic Gardens. It’s smaller and more angular than pea gravel and helps keep the border well drained. It provides that western garden look and doesn’t blow around in the wind. In addition, the smaller rock makes it easier to pull weeds.
• Maintenance: Bridget deadheads the hyssop types because they reseed prolifically in the borders but hasn’t found the need to deadhead hummingbird mint. Plants come through winter easily except when they’re in a spot where the snow is piled. Those tend to die — likely due to winter wet.

Top agastache picks for the Mountain West

• ‘Ava’ A. hybrid
  Blooms a bit later than others so extends the season
• Kudos series A. hybrid
  Smaller plants are good for rock gardens
• Licorice mint A. rupestris
  Two-toned orange flowers with purple calyxes are a great contrast to silvery foliage

Growing Agastache in the South

Expert: Sandra Begani | UGA Trial Garden Manager, University of Georgia Trial Gardens, GA

Even with hot, humid summers that are regularly in the 90s and sporadic rainstorms followed by long dry periods, hummingbird mint has been a great performer for Sandra at the trial garden in Athens, Georgia. Even better, while deer regularly munch on other plants, they leave hummingbird mint alone.

Regional growing tips

• Fertilize: Georgia’s red clay soil is a well-known challenge for gardeners in that area and is probably why plants tend to be short-lived. To make sure the agastaches grow and bloom happily, Sandra and her team till compost and granular fertilizer into the flower beds.
• Mulch: Easy-to-find pine straw mulch is applied annually to help conserve moisture, prevent erosion and keep the weeds down. That’s a big help because hummingbird mint attracts so many bees that weeding can be difficult at certain times of the day.
• Maintenance: These are dry-loving plants but if there hasn’t been any rain all week, she’ll make sure plants get a deep watering so their growth and blooming don’t suffer.

Top agastache picks for the South

• Poquito Butter Yellow A. hybrid
  Lots of yellow flowers and compact habit
• Maestro^™ Gold A. hybrid
  Heat resistant and flowered all summer
• Summerlong Lilac A. mexicana
  Season-long color and tolerates dry conditions

You Might Also Like:
Subscribe to Garden Gate Magazine
See More Plant Guides
Access the Garden Gate Online Library

The garden is the home’s largest consumer of water. So, as a savvy gardener, water conservation — no matter where you live — should be a concern. A well-designed, water-wise landscape that incorporates water-saving devices and techniques can still be a lush and inviting space without wasting water.

Here are a handful of water-smart garden hacks that will get you through the summer with minimal irrigation — and are guaranteed to make your life easier. Each of these tips is sure to save time (by watering more efficiently), money (on monthly water bills and maintenance) and, of course, our precious water.

1. Choose the right watering tool for the job

Most everyone knows it’s best to water early in the day (to prevent unnecessary evaporation). But there are all kinds of simple ways to water more effectively. And often, it’s just a matter of having the right tool for the job, whether it's a good-sized watering can, the right hose attachment, a generous soaker hose or a timer to make watering more efficient.

A large, lightweight watering can — 2- to 3-gallon capacity, if you can carry it — will allow you to spot-water thirsty plants and smaller containers without dragging a hose around and splashing water.

High-quality hose attachments like extendable watering wands can help get water to hard-to-reach hanging baskets, into large containers and deep raised garden beds.

Soaker hoses are the simplest way to water specific spots. There’s no waste when the water goes right into the soil where you need it without spraying. Plus less moisture on plant leaves means less susceptibility to fungal diseases.

An irrigation timer and drip irrigation system deliver a slow, steady supply of water right when and where it’s needed. You can set up a simple system for watering plants in containers, raised beds, trees and shrubs. The easiest way to begin is with just a timer and a soaker hose.

For larger jobs, consider a drip irrigation kit, which comes with tubing, emitters, fittings to connect hoses and hold-down stakes to keep the tubing in place in the ground. Keep in mind that drip irrigation is not a set-and-forget-it solution: You’ll want to check your system regularly to be sure the emitters are not clogged and that rodents haven’t caused damage.

Use a water timer wisely

Use an irrigation timer to turn off the water. It’s easy to forget that the hose is running or that the drip system is turned on. A timer prevents accidental and wasteful overwatering by customizing when to water and for how long. Besides frequency and duration, you can adjust the timer based on future temperatures and weather forecasts. Smart water timers can adjust to the weather and water based on site conditions.

You Might Also Like:
Tips for Watering Perennials
Pros & Cons of Different Types of Garden Hoses
10 Best Drought-Tolerant Plants

2. Use permeable paving

Ditch the poured concrete and consider other options that allow rainwater to percolate below the surface and reach the soil. There are three options to consider: permeable, porous and pervious pavers. Each possesses certain physical and aesthetic attributes that need to be considered before beginning a project.

Permeable pavers are composed of a layer of concrete or brick. The pavers are separated by joints filled with crushed stone. These are different from pervious and porous pavers in that rainwater passes around the paver as opposed to through it.

Porous pavers generally are a grid system filled with soil, sand or gravel. This system allows for grass reinforcement and ground stabilization. Concrete turf block for grass paving began in the mid-1940s, and plastic versions were introduced in the 1970s and 80s. Porous pavers are manufactured in a variety of designs and materials, including plastic and concrete. Concrete turf block for grass paving reduces compaction of the soil to maintain permeability, while the roots improve water filtration.

Pervious pavers allow stormwater to percolate through the surface rather than running off into surrounding areas or storm drains. As water runs through, the pavers filter out pollutants. Like grass, pervious pavers — manufactured from natural stone and organic polymers — allow the ground below to breathe.

3. Harvest & save rainwater with a rain barrel

Rainwater harvesting can be as simple as installing a rain barrel under a gutter coming off a roof. It can be expanded to include a cistern to handle overflow. The only thing that differs between the two is the scale of the system. They both follow the same principles. A large system just captures water from more than one source.

There are a variety of commercially available rain barrels in a wide range of sizes, shapes and styles. Most have a 100-gallon capacity, but larger versions (up to 500 gallons) are available. Look for one with an overflow valve (it kicks in when the barrel reaches capacity) and a mesh screen filter to keep out residue.

Remember, a rain barrel will be outside during all sorts of weather, from baking sun to thunderstorms to freezing ice and snow. Heavy-duty molded plastics, such as resin, can withstand the elements and won’t crack, peel or rot. Find out how to make one from a heavy duty trash can like you see in the photo above with these simple instructions: DIY Rain Barrel Project.

What size rain barrel do I need?

1 inch of rain falling on 1,000 square feet of roof yields 623 gallons of water
Following this formula, a 500-gallon rain barrel will capture most of a typical rainfall.

Using cisterns to store rainwater

Cisterns hold a higher volume of water and are a good choice for climates with infrequent rainfall. A house, garage and outbuildings can all feed into a single large (underground) cistern. Cisterns are, of course, more expensive, and keep in mind that the storage tanks must be placed next to the house, whether they are above or below ground.

To use a cistern, it helps to calculate the total amount of rainwater you can collect year-round. To do this, you need to know the annual rainfall for your region. For annual precipitation rates of the United States, visit www.ncei.noaa.gov/ access/us-climate-normals/

Check local regulations before installing a rain barrel

Certain states have regulations around use of rain barrels; be sure to check local ordinances before you get started.

You Might Also Like:
How to Create a Rain Garden on Your Property
Backyard Rain Garden Plan Layout
Shop Our Garden Plan Collection

Grow a mosaic of foliage in shade

Despite having almost no flowers, this combination is loaded with color and variety. The white-splashed foliage of Chinese fairy bells anchors both sides of the bed, while flashes of chartreuse offer continuity. At the same time, broad hosta leaves, fernlike dog fennel and fine-bladed hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass come together to create a collage of texture.
These plants grow best in part to full shade and evenly moist conditions.

Growing tips

Chinese fairy bells and Chinese wild ginger spread by rhizomes, while hakonechloa and Taiwan mondo grass form clumps that slowly expand. Let them grow together in a seamless carpet of ground covers that will inhibit weeds while keeping each other’s growth in check. In spring, trim out winter-damaged foliage or shear off at ground level.

You Might Also Like:
11 Top-Rated Blue Hostas
Shade Garden Design Ideas & Backyard Tour
The Shade Garden Collection

Foliage-focused shade garden plant list

A) Chinese fairy bellsDisporum cantoniense ‘Moonlight’
Perennial; white flower clusters in late spring to early summer above stems of small variegated green leaves streaked white with a pink blush; part to full shade; 18 to 24 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

B) HostaHosta ‘Brother Stefan’
Perennial; white flower spikes in late spring to early summer over puckered green leaves with golden yellow centers; part to full shade; 20 to 22 in. tall, 24 in. tall in bloom, 30 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8

C) Chinese wild gingerAsarum splendens
Perennial; inconspicuous purple flowers in early spring are hidden around the base of showy, heart-shaped silver-splashed leaves; part to full shade; 6 to 9 in. tall, 9 to 12 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

D) HakonechloaHakonechloa macra ‘All Gold’  
Perennial; yellow-green flowers age to tan in midsummer atop grassy, bright chartreuse foliage; part to full shade; 12 to 18 in. tall and wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 5 to 9

E) Dog fennelEupatorium capillifolium ‘Elegant Feather’ 
Perennial; sterile, insignificant white fall flowers top feathery green foliage that turns red before frost; full sun to part shade; 3 to 6 ft. tall, 1 to 3 ft. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 6 to 9

F) Taiwan mondo grassOphiopogon formosanus
Perennial; white flowers in summer followed by blue fruit over light green grassy foliage; part to full shade; 4 to 6 in. tall, 24 to 36 in. wide; cold hardy in USDA zones 7 to 9

You Might Also Like:
Colorful Shade Garden Combinations
Subscribe to Garden Gate magazine!
Watch Our Garden Design Videos on YouTube